Wine Noter

Maximum Fun

2012-02-13T15:29:00.000-08:00

We hadn’t met Max-1-in-a-Million in person before, but we’ve talked and almost got there over the years. He can make good wine too, so it was a pleasure to catch up over a dinner with Natters and friends at the local Asian eatery. The night progressed from a few bottles to a lot of bottles at home base, and we all had maximum fun getting what we could out of them.

Some German Rieslings showed traditional low alcohol and higher residual sugar against some of the new dry styles, the Grosse Gewachs making a good impression. Firstly a 2009 von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett, rather soft and light, and not quite the focus expected, and a touch of reduction detracting. Surprisingly high 10.5% alc. A 2008 Clemens Busch Marienburg Rothenpfad 1GG Riesling Trocken at 12.5% was tight, austere and closed, with huge minerality and purity. Max-1-in-a-Million thought it had shut down since last tasting it. However the 2009 Van Voxlem Altenberg Alte Reben 1GG (a Kanzemer Altenberg) Riesling was stunning. Immense weight and extract, with classy sheen and slippery finesse to balance the size. I’ve thought Van Voxlem’s wines to be a little too firm in the past, but refinement has been incorporated. This was my star of the night.

To finish the drier white scene, Max-1-in-a-Million brought out a 2000 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Vaillon. Fully mature for sure with rounded, integrated chalk and flint with nutty stonefruit core. Weighty and full, without the crisp zing that makes Chablis poised and knife-edge, but still an enjoyable animal.

Aromatic reds were again so intriguing and good. The 2005 Felton Road ‘Block 3’ Central Otago Pinot Noir was ultra-smooth and sleek, with refined secondary flavours totally immersed in the structure. Many 2005s have turned ugly showing their cool streak. Not this. My only criticism was is smaller scale presentation. SWMBO loved it still. Also refined in texture was a pre-release 2010 Escarpment ‘Kupe’ Pinot Noir from Martinborough. The best I’ve seen it yet, with sumptuousness and depth of fruit to match the mouthfeel. The dried herb cooler vintage was evident, but without any detriment. Almost star of the night was a 2005 Bilancia ‘La Collina’ Syrah. Youthful as a current release wine in colour, primary pepper and black berry fruit, and sweetness of fruit. It’s age belied by the suppleness of the tannins and completeness as a wine. I thought it might show a little more funkiness, but the purity quite mind-boggling.

Old reds began with a New Zealand pair of 26 year old wines from the Auckland/Northland region. The 1986 St Jerome Cabernet/Merlot still dark, with blackcurrant varietal and early viticulture characters. But spoilt by a little grubbiness. Still acid and well-structured and grippy. This was liked by Natters. SWMBO and I enjoyed the 1986 The Antipodean, a Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec from Matakana. A wine with a super marketing story that got $100 a bottle out of me quarter of a century ago. Billed as the Ch. Lafite of N.Z. Tonight, quite beautiful and cedary. Loads too much new oak, but not unripe, well- hidden by the oak? Silky smooth, milk chocolate underneath. Still very drinkable…

The Aussie pair were just as interesting and fun to taste. A 1982 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was elegant, still blackcurranty and minty, lively and fresh, with tannins, acid and all else in working order. A treat indeed. Unfortunately the 1981 Wynns Coonwarra Cabernet Sauvignon was oxidised, sour and savoury. No vestiges of fruit left, acid poking through, and tannins faded leaving it flat too. Oh well, win some, lose some.

It was getting into the early hours, so a little sweet treat ended the night/morning. A 2005 S.A. Prum Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese, just beginning to show a hint of honey and toast to florals and limes. Lush, but well-cut by the acid. Not quite as stunning as the last bottle, but still most excellent.

Duckling

2012-02-11T11:43:00.000-08:00

A surprise visit by Pippa and her new canine pal led to a lively afternoon of chatter and catch up, with an accompanying glass of vino which led to a night out at our friendly Asian eatery. The spontaneity of the occasion was such that first bottles of the rack were taken, and these might normally have not been first-choice if given some more time to pick. They turned out to be duckling wines. Some ducklings are indeed ugly, abut turn into swans, and it’s a miracle when that happens. More often than not, they’re just ducklings that turn into ducks. And that’s good too, as ducks can be delicious!

These two were ducklings. First was the 2009 Framingham ‘Classic’ Riesling 2009. I already like this wine, but another few weeks down the track, in the glass, breathing, opening up and with reasonably mild Cantonese food, it was better. Softly luscious with a beautiful counterpoise of lime and honeysuckle and the barest hints of toast, but the highlight the subtle unctuous texture next to slippery acidity. Perfect to sip on its own, but worked with all we ate.

The 2008 Terrace Edge Waipara Pinot Noir is no longer available, but SWMBO had a spare bottle. Always a little charry-oaky, this flavour combined with the sweet fruit a touch on the awkward side for me, but still very interesting and a good drink. Nowadays, the fruit has gained more secondary forest, mushroom and spice notes, and it has become a tad drier. The oak component stands out a little more. This has grown to have a more forceful personality, knowing where it is heading.

Two wines grown up a little more, from duckling stage to duck. And guess what we ordered from the menu? Roast duck of course.

Summer Fading

2012-01-23T23:02:00.000-08:00

There’s a bit of a craze going on at present, called ‘Summer of Riesling’, and it’s a noble one espousing the glories if the superlative Riesling variety. SWMBO and I met the Overlord a few days ago, and he was inspired and inspirational.

An older Riesling came our way, and it was good but now just about to head down the slippery slope. There’s a point when a wine is glorious in hinting at being decrepit, a bit like humans? This was a bottle of 1999 Forrest ‘Vineyard Selection’ Marlborough Riesling, made dry and sitting at 13.0% on the label. OK, I’ve had much older Rieslings and they’ve been eye-opening, but they don’t always do that well. This is a good 13 years on now, and venerable in New Zealand terms. Lemony golden, a little shy and wilted on nose, but nice toast, mineral and kero. Dry to taste, this had that highly-prized exotic custard texture that I love in older Rieslings. Along with it refined toast and kero with mineral infused honey. But also a trace of bitterness from drying out and a little note of oxidation. Knife-edge stuff, fading as the summer will, but well worth a look and one to enjoy now.

Cool Change

2012-01-17T02:26:00.001-08:00

The summer weather has been superb and indeed a little too warm for full-bodied red wines, so we took our time to cool down. Dinner with the Rhythmic Couple as the sun went down with a corresponding drop in temperature meant we could consider the hearty reds.

The mandatory starter white was a 2002 Schlumberger ‘Princes Abbes’ Alsace Riesling. On the verge of falling over with the tell-tale signs of oxidation hinting, but with a delicious honied character which saved the day. Very good for really what is the base-level wine, but the quality of the variety came through.

Main courses ordered and about to arrive, a sirloin steak was headed my way. The Rhythmic Couple had brought back from Italy a wine that appealed to them, a 2009 Marino ‘Proclamo’ Cilento Aglianico Riserva 2009. Nearly black as black, aromas of fennel, aniseed and liquorice abounded on a fulsome and structured palate. Sweet fruit countered by dry structure, and a real mouthful. I picked up a little TCA cork taint, but it was pretty faint, and some funky game notes gave me suspicions of brett. But no-one else saw these, including SWMBO, who is strong on such matters. A surprising 15.0% alc. on the label, but totally unobtrusive.

The final wine was a 2006 Prunotto Barolo. A lovely elegant wine that especially appealed to SWMBO. But tight and reserved for me. This had all the classic dried roses and tarry notes, with sweet herbs, all cut by good acid. Tannins were a feature, but not fearsome, as can be the case, but then Prunotto are modern at being traditionalists.

The Rhythmic Couple are always treating us, so it was a cool change to cover the cost of their meals. And we shared some interesting and satisfying wines on the way.

Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling 1981 – 1994

2012-01-11T02:30:00.000-08:00

Here are my brief comments of a tasting of some of the earliest Montana Marlborough Rhine Rieslings, the last bottles of these from my old cellar. Most of these wines have been tasted and noted here before, and all are in reality well past their best now, but surprises are always in store. The wines were tasted oldest to youngest and in groups of three:

1981: Deep golden orange colour, this is shy, but with a solid and densely presented nose of slightly spoilt beeswax, not quite clean. Medium-dry, this is rather light in flavour, over-ripe citrus fruits, lozenges, soft in mouthfeel, but still with acidity. Honied notes on the aftertaste. This has residual honey characters showing some integrity. 10.5% alc. 13.0/20
1982: Deep golden orange with a little yellow. This shows sharp oxidation on bouquet, some caramel coming through. Medium-sweet to taste, a honey and oxidative amalgam remains on palate along with crisp acidity. There is good mouthfeel, but unfortunately the oxidation is too prominent. Front label deteriorated, alcohol % unreadable. 12.0+/20
1983: Deep golden orange colour. Some TCA and soft oxidation to the fore, but with nuances of toastiness and a little kero. Medium-dry, this has an elegant proportion and fine textured mouthfeel and core. Toasty elements with oxidation, but still with acid vitality. This bottle faded and probably tainted. Past low shoulder ullage equivalence. 11.5% alc. 10.5/20

1984: Deep golden orange colour, the nose has an unusual mix of herbaceous, sappy and herbal aromatics alongside lozenge and caramel, and a nuance of oxidation. Off-dry, this is light-bodied, thin, herbaceous in flavour with harsh acidity. Weak and watery in the wine department, and reflecting the cool vintage, but curiously not dead. Unpleasant. 11.5% alc. 9.5+/20
1985: Bright golden-yellow with lemon hues. This has a soft, gentle and integrated nose with wild honey and toast notes, building in depth. Medium-dry, this features succulent honey and sherbet flavours with toast, underlined by clean, soft acid. Quite complete and without overly broad, this is extremely developed, but still very attractive. This became dry with air time. 12.0% alc. 18.5-/20
1986: Deep golden orange in colour, not bright. The bouquet is marked by sherryish oxidation, quite firm and hard. Medium on palate, oxidation rules, but there is a lively sweetness and succulence from an esters lift that provides a modicum of appeal. 12.0% alc. 12.0/20

1987: Light golden yellow colour, this has freshness and an elegance on bouquet, honey, toast and some dried flowers. Medium in sweetness, there is some weight and a core to the palate line, with flavours of honey, sherbet and esters, the acidity quite soft. A touch drying on the finish, but in remarkable condition, showing no oxidation. 12.0% alc., 13 g/L rs, TA 7.5 g/L, pH 3.38. 17.5-/20
1988: Deep, orange gold in colour, the nose is sharp and oxidised, and quite light in expression. Medium-dry, this is very light in weight, but showing honey and lozenge flavours and burnt honey, the oxidation present, but not rampant. Good acidity carries the finish with length. Cyclone Bola vintage, with a little effect in Marlborough only. 12.0% alc., 12 g/L rs, TA 7.5 g/L, pH 3.4. 11.0-/20
1989: Deep, golden orange colour, this has a full, broad and open nose of caramel and toffee, with over-ripe tropical fruits, suggesting botrytis. Medium in sweetness, the palate is soft and gently presented, showing light and attractive flavours of toffee and burnt honey, a little flabby, but with residual acidity. No noticeable oxidation, but the fruit has pretty much faded. 12.5% alc., 14 g/L rs, TA 7.5 g/L, pH 3.4. 15.5/20

1990: Light golden-orange colour with yellow hues. This has a light honied nose with notes of caramel and an element of oxidation. Medium-dry and light weighted, honey and toast flavours feature, and attractive caramel notes emerge. The palate verges on thinness and the acidity is somewhat flat, but the softness and delicacy are positives. 11.5% alc., 13 g/L rs, TA 7.1 g/L, pH 3.2. 12.5/20
1991: Bright, light golden yellow colour. The nose is composed of yellow florals with honey, alongside notes of toast with fresh herbs. Medium-dry to taste, this is an elegantly proportioned wine with subtle and ethereal flavours of flowers, lime fruit and honey. The toasty characters are restrained. Fresh, lively acids are present, but in the final analysis somewhat on the thin side. 12.0% alc. 15.5/20

1993: Deep, light golden colour, the nose is marred by TCA cork taint which results in a herbal grubbiness to the aromatics of ripe citrus fruit. Off-dry to taste, this is light and even in expression, with gentle honey and toast notes to the citrus fruit. The TCA intrudes and builds in dirtiness and flattens the palate. 12.0% alc. 11.5/20
1994: Bright, even, light golden yellow colour, this has a fine and tightly bound bouquet, somewhat shy. Limes, honey and subtle toasty aromas are melded together. Medium-dry, this is gentle and easy, light in body, and quite subtle in flavour expression. Yellow florals, hints of honey, some lusciousness, and gentle nuances carry through on a good finish. There is balanced acidity contributing to the harmony, but in essence uncomplicated. Pleasant and textbook stuff, but in good condition for its age. 11.5% alc. 16.0+/20

There you are. They've all gone now. Phew! But wait.....there's other treasure to come...

Charged with Chardonnays

2012-01-02T20:38:00.000-08:00

What a great set of people the Neighbouring S.O.S. Group are. They help us out with excess wine, but often they are the reason to open some bottles and celebrate. An extended session involved a close look at three of our favourite Chardonnays.

The scene setter and near scene stealer was a 2009 Charles Wiffen Marlborough Chardonnay. A gold medal winner, and incredibly good value around the $25.00 mark. A little golden in colour, this filled the nose and palate with citrus fruit characters, toasty, nutty oak and a good whack of creamy, buttery MLF. The acidity was there, but this is now developing nicely and coming together with a seamlessness of texture. Beautiful and flavoursome to drink now and over the next couple of years. This was definably Marlborough, and more than excellent with it, and it hit the spot with the Neighbouring S.O.S. Group and SWMBO.

Next was the multi-Champion Wine of the Show winner, the 2010 Villa Maria ‘Single Vineyard – Keltern’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay. Now, surely, all those judges who have seen this wine over so many shows must know what they’re on about? Well, it surely is a cracker, but in the modern show-winning mould with plenty of the complexing sulphides. Nutty and flinty, bordering on OTT for me. The fruit restrained, more stonefruit and nuts. However, this had superlative concentration, drive and tension, the acidity perfectly judge, as is the oaking. Toast and char nuances just add another layer of interest to something that is jam-packed with it. But, curiously, it was not preferred over the Charles Wiffen. I myself found myself waiting for the reduction to subside with breathing, as I have seen it do so with other bottles opened, and it did, but for here and now, the earlier wine got the thumbs up. We all knew the Villa Maria was special, but today it seemed it will be one that will come into its own later. At around $35.00 a bottle, it’s a steal. So SWMBO & I have some stored away…

The final in the trio was the 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Craighall’ Martinborough Chardonnay. The most expensive at around $40.00. This was the ‘wow wine’ Back to a darker colour, but voluminous and mouthfilling with ripe stonefruit and exotic tropical fruit flavours interwoven with spicy, nutty oak and all wrapped up in a creamy, decadent structure. This had extra layers of flavour and nuances that immediately unfolded and revealed complexity. This is truly a great wine from a great vineyard site, and we all agreed it was the one to put first on style alone. It isn’t your modern affair, and it isn’t varietal or regional. Just great terroir, making great wine under the auspices of sensitive hands. It’s lovely now, but will keep another few years for sure.

The gathering could see all three wines were superb. We all agreed to disagree on our preferences when considering style and price. The discussion could have gone on for some time. So, we all took a step back, charged our Chardonnay glasses and toasted all three wines!

Out There Reds

2012-01-02T02:31:00.000-08:00

A clan gathering is always an ‘out there’ experience, with lots of tales being told with stories and laughter galore. It’s always a good time to open some ‘out there’ wines, as the clan enjoy all sorts, as long as they are good sorts. There’s always been a bit of talk of how the 1998 vintage being a hot and dry one has made Californian-style reds in Hawke’s Bay. Many critics reckoned the wines would fall over quickly because of over-ripeness, insufficient acidity and the like, but this has not proved to be the case generally. In fact, full ripeness and ripe acidity are regarded as precursors for a successful, ageworthy vintage if the acidity, and overall balance works. The 1998s I’ve seen are still going strong as they near one and a half decades of age. To test the life of 1998s, a couple of rather ‘out there’ wines were broached…

Firstly a 1998 Ata Rangi Martinborough Syrah. Not quite Hawke’s Bay, but for all intents and purposes close enough. This was a rare bottling of the variety, tiny amounts of something special. Still dark, with a rich, fulsome bouquet and palate of savoury, spicy dark plum and berry fruits. Very Syrah in the secondary phase. Great mouthfeel and presence, the tannins beginning to resolve, yet with significant structure. And acidity to burn, too. This was certainly well-ripened, but not over-done, as varietal spice, pepper and game were there and unmistakably so. It just unfolded layers of ethereal complexity with air-time. Funky, but pleasingly clean. This could manage another 5+ years cellaring.

Encouraged by the success of the Ata Rangi, then came out a 1998 Redmetal Hawke’s Bay ‘The Merlot. This was the best Merlot fruit from the Master of Merlot himself, Grant Edmonds, the fruit given the full-on treatment, but without pushing it too far. Some of the 1998s have shown the dreaded brett as the wines he made that year were not sterile-filtered, but this bottle thankfully very clean. Ripe and concentrated, densely packed dark red berry and plums, with black earth and a touch of tar. Showing shiny oak and lively acidity, this is still remarkably fresh. Time in glass just revealed more density and packed flavours, the wine showing how seriously constructed it was, and the quality of the fruit on which this was based. The power stood out, but this was an extremely balanced wine. Grant can be proud of this one. It will continue to develop over another decade, yet it can be enjoyed now.

Fizzy at Least

2012-01-01T16:27:00.000-08:00

A number of sparkling wines have come our way over the holiday period so far, and they were quite diverse in make-up and style. If one were to look critically at what was presented, you might not expect too much, but each delivered more than the minimal expectation that they’d be ‘fizzy at least’!

A couple of bottles kept in the wine racks for around three years at least, so given bottle-age, which might not be the best if you prefer freshness. The ‘English’ like of wine with toastiness is something SWMBO and I don’t mind. The NV Grant Burge Pinot Noir-Chardonnay Methode Traditionnelle Brut was indeed developed with toasty, nutty flavours, but certainly not OTT, still with decent effervescence and some breadth, providing some substance and body. This was certainly interesting to drink, with character, and not too tiresome at all. The labels says ‘Australian’ so was the fruit sourced outside the home base of Barossa? Similar in positive development was an NV Simonnet-Febvre Cremant de Bourgogne. I’ve always been in two minds about this when a shipment arrives. It’s refreshing for sure, but the sulphur levels can be disturbing. This bottle, with some bottle age had become far more sturdy, but also harmonious and rounded. The bubbles were still lively, and the suphide certainly present, but nicely integrated into the wine rather than jarring the nose and palate. The Cremant appellation doesn't get me going, and when the producer is from Chablis, the expectations aren't great. This was a nice surprise.

Two bottles from recent shipments looked great too. The Neighbouring S.O.S Group shared the NV Spagnol ‘Col del Sas’ Valdobbiadene Prosecco Extra Dry and it was truly impressive. Very fine bead and texture, with beautifully fresh and delicately succulent stonefruit flavours. It was a joy to drink, and we could only think of a visit by Marco from the estate and his cousin Andrea who visited us, both these young Italian men recently married. And to complete the set, an NV Maxim’s Champagne Brut Reserve, gifted to us. An old and venerable label for sure, but Wine Imported regularly. Fresh, fullish, easy, with good Pinot body and fruitiness. Not a great deal of autolytic complexity, but it didn’t need it to be satisfying. The dosage judged very well, this just slipped down effortlessly. A nice Champers.

We like the good and expensive stuff too, and there’s occasion aplenty to open them. But we enjoyed not being too finicky with these. They were more than just fizzy.

Composure

2011-12-30T09:55:00.000-08:00

This is the time of year we provide a little gift to the friends around us. The Quarriers were close neighbours, but they moved away to build their dream home a couple of years ago. And each time we visit, they seem happier and more composed, living their ideal life. They’ve been keen on local history and their knowledge of the characters and goings-on of the district makes fascinating story-telling. It was over another engrossing session with The Quarriers that SWMBO and I shared a couple of bottles, with several platters of antipasto. I don’t know if it was the relaxed nature of the evening or not, but the wines looked composed and relaxed too.

The Quarriers had visited Europe a few months earlier, so it was appropriate to have a 2005 S.A. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett. We had this before, and it was satisfactory then. Here, it struck a balance of delicacy with distinctive depth. Subtlety of florals, apples, honeysuckle based on slight sweetness, gentle acidity just hinting at richness with a faint toastiness just emerging. The 9.5% alc. totally harmonious.

We followed the white with a 2008 Mount Edward Central Otago Pinot Noir. The 2008s have always been easy drinkers, the crop tending on the large size. The wines have been pleasant for sure, but mostly they lacked the extra ‘X’ factor. This marred my thinking on this wine in the early days, not expecting too much out of it. It’s shyness of youth has continued to blossom, and I’ve never seen it look better. Still dark in colour, the primacy and vibrancy of fruit is sensational. Dark berry fruits with oak shine and spices along with violetty florals. The palate rich and supple, and the tannins composed. Delicious.

Both bottles slipped down a treat, and we learned a little more from The Quarriers that night…

Shamefully Neglected Chardonnay

2011-12-28T22:06:00.001-08:00

I must admit I’m ashamed of myself. 25 years ago, our winegrowers and winemakers could not be expected to make Chardonnay to last a quarter of a century of age. If one were honest, few burgundian vineyards and winemakers have it in them to do the same now. But here we were, cleaning out more remnants, this time New Zealand Chardonnays from 1987. At the time, these were much vaunted labels from some of the most exciting producers at the time. Of the five wines tried, four of the labels still exist, and that says something for stickability if the aspirations for achieving are there from the start. However, shameful on me, they should have been opened and enjoyed 20 years ago. The wines would have been fully mature, and I and my fellow drinkers would have seen them for what the industry could achieve at that time.

This was the time that Kumeu River, Morton ‘Black Label’, Babich ‘Irongate’ and Villa Maria ‘Barrique Fermented’ reigned supreme. All of the following showed orange colours with browning, though varying in depth. Also, oxidation was prevalent, again to varying degrees.

First up was the 1987 Coopers Creek ‘Swamp Road’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay. 13.0% alc. on the babel. This was also one of the hot wines with a history of winning gold medals. Fruit came from the real ‘Swamp Road’ then, and not from other sites away from the Gimblett Gravels bottled as ‘Swamp Reserve’ as it is now. This was lighter orange-brown, with a not particularly attractive earthy, rather unclean, funky nose. A little more air saw positive toasty oak and char characters emerge. Unfortunately, all vinous flavour had dried up and faded, leaving powerful oxidation and extremely high acidity. The ‘Swamp Reserve’ Chardies are all class nowadays, and this is due to Simon Nunns tightening up the style.

Next was the 1987 Ngatarawa ‘Alwyn’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay. Alwyn had founded Ngatarawa a few years earlier after coming back from UC Davis, and championed the variety. In many ways, he was the Hawke’s Bay ‘godfather’ with the academic background and credibility. This was a highly collectable label then, and the current release carry on the tradition. Light orange brown, with intense oxidation, but with a clarity and cleanliness. Bruised apples. Fully burnished with oxidation on palate, the wine still has a gentleness and harmony, like the man who made it. I love drinking Alwyn’s current releases as much as I did then.

The best wine of the line-up was the 1987 Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay. This was the first effort from Larry McKenna at this most exciting vineyard in a most exciting area. I was buoyed by reports that the 1988 MV Chardonnay recently tasted still was drinkable, and I remember Larry very pleased with that one at the time. Lighter golden brown, this was over-developed for sure, but fruit and oak, nuts and oxidation were showing with elegance. Again, blowsy on the palate, but very definably complex tropical fruits nutty notes, including merged oxidation, good acidity, and actually pleasantly drinkable. Well done Larry, your legacy at MV is carried on by Paul Mason.

Almuth Lorenz was an enigmatic and inspirational woman of great enthusiasm. She took a party of wine lovers, including the Real Mr Parker to her native Germany to meet stars such as Ernie Loosen. Almuth has disappeared from view now. This 1987 Merlen Marlborough Chardonnay was full-on at the time. It was notable for its dark colour and fulsome tropical fruit and oak flavours. Deep brown with mahogany now, this was lifted and had oxidation along with full, soft apricot notes. Very broad, but surprisingly lively from the acidity, the apricot notes spelt botrytis to me. The underlying oxidation really a bit too much. They say botrytis brings on premature development. It did, but there a point where not much else happens except falling off a cliff to oxidation death. This hasn’t quite got there yet.

The final wine was the 2007 Te Whare Ra ‘Duke of Marlborough’ Chardonnay, made by Allan and Joyce Hogan, boutique pioneers in the region. His Chardonnay was touted to be as exciting as his Rieslings, sweet wines and Bordeaux-style reds. So I bought some. The darkest of the set, and quite grubby and green. I suppose I saw it as Marlborough regionality combined with complexity. Some balanced textures, but the flavours are now too dirty to leave the wine in the mouth. Jason & Anna Floweday do a great job at TWR nowadays. But I probably wouldn’t leave their Chardonnay 25 years…

A Surprising Sticky End

2011-12-24T00:51:00.000-08:00

Would it be a treasure trove of goodies or a set of disappointments that would be in store for us with the little cache of sweet wines that we dug out from the back of the cellar? Most of the wines were acquired by SWMBO over a decade ago, and in shifting houses they got put in the corner, forgotten. It was with a little trepidation that we broached them; for surely, they had come to a ‘sticky end’ by being left too long.

Firstly a 1994 Villa Maria ‘Cellar Selection’ Marlborough LH Riesling, at 11.0% alc, made with some botrytised fruit. Deep golden, this showed tell-tale signs of oxidation, but carried excellent refreshing acidity and decent amounts of honey and citrus fruit. If only it wasn’t oxidised this would still be an excellent drink. Then a paler coloured 1995 Okahu Estate Northland ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay Desserté. 10.5% alc. and also botyrtised, we assume. On nose rather flat, dull and heavy with honied notes. Again on palate quite dull, redeemed by sheer viscosity and unctuous textures. In remarkable condition, but too flabby to drink any more than a few sips.

The next two wines were more extreme. A 1997 Lintz Estate Martinborough Optima Noble Selection, with 12.0% and 280 g/L rs. Chris Lintz was never afraid to push things, some say too far, hence his fall from grace. This German variety can reach ultra-high brix levels and with full botrytis, this was an OTT wine even on release. However a conglomerate cork tells the story now. Dark mahogany coloured, the nose was marked by a nasty mix of TCA and VA, along with the burnt caramel and toffee aromas and flavours. A tonne of acidity could not carry the overdone flavours, even if the cork taint was not present. A little surprise was the 1981 Tokaji Wine Trust Co. Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, at 14.0% alc. Dark orange and mahogany coloured, this was dry and dense with sherryfied aromas and flavours. Flor characters, as it should have, but wonderfully lively and vibrant and very fine featured. Very drinkable, and its only failing would be a slight lack of oomph to make it strong enough to handle time in the glass to evolve. As it was, it starting to dry and become austere in front of our eyes.

The finale was an NV Limeburners Bay Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Vin Doux Naturel’ Dessert Wine, made in Hobsonville, carrying 17.5% alc. Now defunct, this winery was one of the champions of this style, of which there was a raft of pretenders and contenders. Looking at this bottle which surely would have fruit at least from the mid 1990s, it showed the viticultural standards of the day with its leafiness. Some porty, caramel, chocolate notes too, along with a spoilage note of little furry animals? That’s why it ended up as a fortified dark red wine, rather than a varietal table red….

The wines were indeed a little surprise in a good way. Expecting the worse, they had redeeming features, let down by negative elements that were exacerbated by time. These stickies did come to a sticky end…

New and Old at the Cat Club

2011-12-15T11:21:00.000-08:00

I’ve been catching up with the Cat Club people for around two decades, meeting at least annually to taste wines with them. They are the most down-to-earth, up-front and unassuming people in the world who love living on the edge of the city, and with nature nearby, the relish simplicity. And that’s how they like their wines – without any pretension. SWMBO and I were invited to be guests at their Christmas function, and it was a fun affair with honest humour and hearty food. A moist, tender and flavoursome ham took my fancy…

We shared our wines with the people around us, and quite a few really made an impression. I haven’t had a taste of the South African NV Pongracz Methode Cap Classique for a number of years now, but it’s always been a classy Champers look-alike, offering exceptional value. Sometimes it is a bit aldehydic, but this evening it was spot on, balancing freshness with complexing autolysis. Another bubbly also showed a touch of class, a 2001 Hartz Barn ‘Black Bead’ Barossa Sparkling Shiraz, still unyielding, but based on ripe fruit without any oak excesses. I suspect it could have handled a little more bottle-age, but it was delicious for its restraint.

Possibly my wine of the night was a 2011 Hunters Marlborough Rosé, most likely made from Pinot Noir, and seemingly off-dry and an amazing purity and depth of fruit flavours. Thirst-quenching, but simultaneously rich with exotic red floral notes. And another impressive wine was the 2008 Vynfields Reserve Martinborough Pinot Noir, wonderfully concentrated, but becoming smooth and silky in texture as the tannins are just beginning to soften. The ripeness of fruit without being overcooked was ideal. Still needing a lot more time was the 2005 Te Mata Awatea Cabernet/Merlot served from magnum. A great year in The Bay for sure, and this was powerfully and tightly concentrated. Initially shy, it blossomed to show dark plums, liquorice and Asian spices with great length.

Our contribution to the evening included some N.Z. Cabernet/Merlot blends a quarter of a century in age. We were not expecting too much out of these 1986 wines, as they never achieved the ripeness they get nowadays. But they were surprisingly drinkable and in reasonably good condition. The 1986 Venture Vineyards Gisborne Cabernet/Merlot was a 50/50 blend from the ‘Sunvale’ estate, the wine aged 9 months in French puncheons. I think they were growers for Corbans, who made the wine. Past its best by a long shot, but still clean, and mellowed out to blandness, with nothing such as stalkiness sticking out. Unfortunately the 1986 Coopers Creek Cabernet/Merlot was not entirely clean. I’ve seen this before a few years ago, and a bit of grubbiness showed then too. The wine has a robustness and liveliness from proper extraction and good acidity. I think the fruit was from the Auckland area.

I really thought the 1986 Matawhero Gisborne Cabernet/Merlot was exceptional last time I saw it. It had developed seamless milk chocolate characters, and this bottle had too, but not with the richness of the earlier bottle. This was a tad drier. Made by the ever-thoughtful Hatsch Kalberer. The 1986 Ngatarawa ‘Glazebrook’ CabernetMelot was drinkable, but just had an unbalancing sourness to the fruit expression. A hint of leaf, quite acceptable, and good acid, and not dried out by any means. Alwyn Corban was a leader then and is still a force in Hawke’s Bay today.

The highlight was a wine that was out of balance – overly oaked at the time no doubt, and still the case today. 25 years ago, it would have been even easier to be seduced by new oak. 1986 Villa Maria Reserve Cabernet/Merlot, im a 60/40 ratio, fruit all from Auckland. Aged 14 months in 100% new 500 Litre barrels. The sweet and spicy oak still prevalent today, but looking more obvious because the fruit had faded away. A little leafy hint and still some acidity. Tannins present and again a little obvious, adding to the dryness. But still quite drinkable and actually enjoyable!

Singular Spice

2011-12-11T10:44:00.001-08:00

The family doesn’t get together often with members spread over the country and busy lifestyles, bur a quick dinner before Stormin’ Norm hopped on a plane was one get-together. Jubes had a lovely meal all prepared, and a number of good bottles were dispatched.

One wine was particularly noteworthy, a 2005 Ata Rangi Celebre. A blend of 35% Syrah, 35% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon was just coming into its own. The Syrah component stood out, making it a singular spice experience. Savoury spices, meat, a hint of pepper and a taste of the exotic. Not too much tannin, but still with good freshness and acidity, and no sign of green, showing the quality of the vintage. A touch of the secondaries, ideal for interest. Celebre has never been about great finesse or having the quality to take on the world as a Bordeaux-Rhone style, but rather about drinkability. That’s what maker Clive Paton designed it to be, and sure enough, this is what it was. Deliciously drinkable.

Moroccan-inspired and marinated with a gentlespicy mix, the lamb, cooked on the BBQ, served on cous cous with pumpkin and lots of herbed yoghurt was the dinner, simple and not quite rustic. Just like the wine.

Bubble, Bubble, Toil & Trouble

2011-11-29T10:22:00.000-08:00

Every year ‘The Shaker’ opens a couple of dozen Champers and after making good notes on the wine, he holds a party so as not to waste them. The invited guests are an eclectic lot, as SWMBO and I are invited. We look the serious types, as we make a note or two, but there are others who know what they are on about. There are some who just like a drink, and before you know it, the bottles are empty! I grade the Champagnes into star-quality, based on the briefest impressions, because if I don’t work quickly, the bottles can be drained. In fact, this year I turned up right on the dot, so as to not waste any time. Here are my impressions, from 3 star, working up to 5 star, not in the order tasted, but alphabetically:

3 Star
Boizel ‘Blanc de Noirs’ – full, dry, yellow fruits soft and fleshy
Cattier – light, clean simple and fresh
Drappier ‘Carte Blanche’ – up-front, open and easy to understand, some good weight
Gardet ‘Brut Tradition’ – lighter expression, correct and clean
Lanvin – crisp, dry and acidic, a bit new, without the development yet
Moet & Chandon Vintage 2002 – soft, gentle, honied, a bit matty
Piper Heidsieck – slight sulphide notes, easy, light and clean
Pommery – a little sulphidic on nose, but with fruitiness – Pinot Meunier showing
Pommery ‘Springtime’ Rosé – up-front, sweetish and light

4 Star
Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ – rich, complex, tight a new shipment
Gardet ‘Brut 1er Cru’ – intense, yeasty autolysis and some complexity
Gardet ‘Brut Selected Reserve’ – nutty, aldehydic, but with intensity and length
Moet & Chandon ‘Brut Imperial’ – delicate, balanced with it all, in a mild-mannered way, but satisfying
Mumm ‘Cordon Rouge’ – lively, clean fresh, simply sweetish and easy
Mumm Rosé – tight with lovely berryish nose, and fresh fruited palate
Louis Roederer ‘Brut Premier’ – tightly bound, crisp and firm, good concentration but not the usual richness, still fresh
Perrier-Jouet ‘Grand Brut’ – soft, floral, fluffy and delisciously accessible
Taittinger ‘Folies de la Marquetterie’- lovely acidity, finesse and length in a slender style
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin ‘Yellow Label’ – medium weight, with fruit and autolysis, everything as it should be, just not starring, but more than satisfactory
Jean-Marc Vigreux-Freres – tight, clean good autolysis in a firm style

5 Star
Ayala ‘Brut Majeur’ – tight and concentrated, serious underneath, but fine
Boizel ‘Brut Reserve’ – rich and fruity, in great proportion with developing complexities
Bollinger Rosé – big boned, with fruit richness and complexing yeast, yet with style
Charles Heidsieck ‘Brut Reserve’ –toasty, rich, soft and mouthfilling
Dom Pergnon 2002 – stunning elegance, finesse, freshness, beautiful acidity and floral aromatics
Jacquesson Cuvee 733 – punchy and tight with funky complexities and interest
Pol Roger ‘Brut Reserve’ – very fresh, clean, delicacy personified, yet real character and depth
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin ‘La Grande Dame’ 1998 – powerful and densely constructed with lovely acidity and great complexity

The list and ratings seem right in place for me, and my usual perspective. There are always some surprises, due to how I’m seeing things that day. But also each house can vary, according to how fresh or old the shipment is. Some of the smaller houses vary year to year, and surprisingly the bigger houses can too. C’est la vie! Thanks to ‘The Shaker’.

Dirty Thirties

2011-11-20T22:41:00.001-08:00

After the big day serving drinks and selling bottles, we eventually retired to the A-Prentices to relax. It was all pretty mellow stuff, and SWMBO, the Patroller, the Argentine Angel, and Bexy didn’t seem too bothered to open any more bottles, but rather be content to sip on some that were already opened.

Ah, but what the heck, we gave in to our inquisitiveness and thought we ought to broached a couple of old bottles that didn’t seem to appeal originally. The discussion with Bex was that many of us seem the drink the newer wines, as viticulture and winemaking is improving all the time, and the oldies just don’t cut the mustard. The wine of the past weren’t made with the same understanding of basic hygiene and desire for ripeness. Many oldies just seem to grubby and dirty, with the dreaded ‘B’ word showing up a lot. So we didn’t hold up much hope for the following:

So first up a 1977 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. 34 years old.. Fading garnet with brick. On the nose quite herbaceous and stalky, but also blackcurranty. And a bit earthy and gamey in a secondary way, and not really dirty at all. Phew! The palate was the let-down. Light-bodied, rather thin, drying out and firm in residue. A more commercial wine from a pretty inauspicious year really. So it didn’t do too badly….

We held out even less hope for the Chilean 1974 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon. The Argentine Angel especially didn’t expect too much. After all, the Chileans gave the co-ordinates for the General Belgrano navy cruiser to the Brits, resulting in its sinking. Well, dark garnet with blood and tawny hues, this actually smelt sweet and ripe and that odd, resinous rauli wood they matured wine in then. Soft, integrated, but without too much backbone, as you’d expect, and clean. As it sat in the glass, I could sense decay creeping in. But, a surprise. Not bad for a 37 year old cheapie bought over three decades ago…

Greys and Blacks

2011-11-19T10:55:00.001-08:00

An annual gathering at the A-Prentices was the occasion, before the regional festival, and my, has the gathering grown. Bottles galore lined up, with a host of Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs and other varieties and styles. I arrived late, so just managed to work my way through a selection of Pinot Gris and Cabernet Sauvignons before retiring.

A well-awarded 2010 Mud House ‘Home Block’ Waipara Pinot Gris was all correct, and prim and proper, and a delicious starter. Off-dry, with weight and some unctuous textures. Then an explosively fruity 2011 Starborough Marlborough Pinot Gris, just simply an exotic mouthfilling wine that has interest and freshness. A step up in power with flavour restraint was the 2011 Starborough Awatere Pinot Gris, a single-vineyard expression. This bottling has drive and will no doubt develop with bottle age, judging by its constitution and purity.

Then onto the seriously blackcurranty stuff. An intriguingly labelled wine “1” was first broached. Not many clues as to what it was, except the capsule had “Stony Corner” and the back label 2005 red wine of New Zealand. A relabelled Newton-Forrest tier! And sure enough, that iron-core of black fruit with sweet and spicy notes. Quite delicious. A tougher proposition was the 2003 Kennedy Point Waiheke Island Cabernet Sauvignon. Dry, firm, dusty tannins. The classic question: will the fruit last as long as the tannins? My feeling was the extraction will remain dominant. Our friend Beckers had brought along two vintages of the iconic Margaret River Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2004 was indeed an example of its greatness. Ripe, superbly structured, and with a sweetness of varietal fruit with just that little more, a nuance of eucalypt to prove its provenance. The 2005 was more an expression of the variety than place. Firm, archetype blackcurrants, and great concentration with length too. A tad on the austere side, but that’s Cabernet Sauvignon.

Things with Shiraz brought up the end of the evening for me. The 1998 Glovers ‘Springrove’ Shiraz from Nelson was a big number in size and grip, unfortunately tainted by brettanomyces. However, an ancient 1986 Ata Rangi ‘Celebre’ was a revelation. Though herbaceous on the nose, this was sweet and lush to drink, and still with the structure to go somewhere. The finale was a 1.5 Litre 2008 Ata Rangi ‘Celebre’. Fresh, juicy, spicy, wonderful proportion and a joy to drink. Sometimes a magnum bottle is not quite big enough.

Testing Time

2011-11-17T16:24:00.000-08:00

Every year, I have been running a wine options game for special clients, the ‘Beepers’ who are ‘Simply Gruesome’. It’s always organised with panache, and SWMBO and I just come in and conduct it, asking the questions, and we have a lot of laughs doing it. We’ve noticed the standard of tasting ability and wine recognition has steadily risen over time, and it’s definitely not the clues I give them, but I reckon its their abilities and accumulated knowledge. When Len Evans designed the wine options game, I’m sure he had ‘fun and learning’ in mind.

This year’s wines were a selection I enjoyed picking and serving. I get asked what’s my favourite, and I must honestly reply they all seem good to me for what they are! The first served was the 2010 Eradus Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The good 2010s from Marlborough are drinking so well right now, this showing some beany development, but the richness, weight and harmony is something to behold, if you are limiting yourself to current vintage wine. It’s partly the vineyard, partly the winemaking and partly the year, but it all worked. The players did well with this in identifying it. Also well picked by the players was the 2009 Albert Mann Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer ‘Steingrubler’. We had this in July and loved its hedonistic richness. But tonight it was a little closed up and herbal-muscatty. Still with depth and oily textures, this could be one that will age well. Then the wine that fooled and disturbed people. A 2002 Tyrrells ‘Vat 1’ Hunter Valley Semillon. I was told by an eminent Hunter wine judge that you must work at understanding this style. I’m still working at it, and the light must be coming through. Very refined and tight, with gorgeous intricacies of waxy herbal fruit and ethereal tasty oak-like complexities. Bright and fresh with plenty of acid, I can see this going another decade or two! An Aussie in the audience loved it, but she had had prior experience of such things, but it bamboozled the rest of the group.

The ‘Last Man Standing’ game is always fun. In a short time you can whittle 60 participants down to one winner with some well thought-out questions. It took just four questions to get a ‘best taster’ with the 2010 Heart of Gold Gisborne Gruner Veltliner. The wine has come on remarkably in a year, indicating that it can benefit with some bottle age. A year ago, it was on the lighter side, but now the full pepperiness and direct character came through well. Gisborne seems to be successful are a growing region too.

Then onto the reds, starting with a 2008 Penfolds ‘Bin 407’ Cabernet Sauvignon. A very good year for Penny’s as many ‘even number’ vintages tend to be. Ripe, sweet and rounded with density, but also strong blackcurranty flavours. Sure, a meal in itself, but satisfying and it brought a smile to most people’s faces, including ours. It was reasonably identified by most people. The 2009 Charles Wiffen Marlborough Pinot Noir was also easily recognised as a Kiwi Pinot Noir, but hard to pick where it came from. Most said Martinborough or Central Otago. A bit of praise I suppose for Marlborough which tends to get overlooked. Succulent and plummy, without being like a Merlot or Syrah, and very Pinot Noir. A crowd pleaser for sure. The final wine was again fairly difficult to pick. Unless you’re a keen wine aficionado, you wouldn’t fork out for a $100.00 2006 Prunotto Barolo. It was a bit of a star for me. Classical tar and faded roses, with vital acidity and firm tannins. The lovely savoury flavours juxtaposed with sweetness. Looking faded, but capable of a decade plus ahead. And Prunotto is a modern traditionalist, so imagine the real old-fashioned stuff! This pushed the limits a bit for most tasters, but they could see the difference. Old World structure, and food compatibility.

The whole event ran smoothly but took more time than expected. Though we were testing the ‘Simply Gruesome Beepers’, we were tested on the time too. We all passed!

Solid as a Brick

2011-10-28T04:47:00.000-07:00

We were in a bit of a party mode and Brickers invited us around to his place for a few wines and a bowl of soup. Brickers is a real card and can draw well as well as tell stories. But just as impressive is how he brings out wines to attract one’s attention.

One of the other invited guests opened their wine first, a 2004 Dagueneau Pouilly Fume ‘Pur Sang’. The wild man of the Loire made the best Sauvignons in the world, consistently – solid as a brick! Pale as ever with the most amazing liveliness and acidity allied to minerals, herbs and stonefruits, I saw some oxidation which seemed to integrate with the wine in the glass. It would be easy to underestimate how this could change for the better, but alas, it went down a treat as it was, so I’ll never know…

A rock solid, blue-chip vintage for Burgundy is 2009. Brickers supplied two. The 2009 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er ‘Cazetiers’ was remarkable soft, supple and sweet. Not like the Faiveleys of old which were all tannin and extract. This had great dark berry fruits with knife-edge char, toast, game and funky brett. If you could handle the horses, it was a revelation. Otherwise, it will only get worse. Next was a much cleaner 2009 Bouchard Pere Volnay 1er ‘Clos des Chenes’. Clean and clinical, without too much personality really. Hard to fault, I would have preferred drinking the previous wine for character alone.

Serious wines were then on the drinks list. The 2009 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape was dark in colour and dark in fruit; raspberries with game, and plump sweetness backed by a serious backbone. Layers of funky interest lurked below the fruit, and I felt this could turn any way and in any time. Rounding off the party was a 2007 Pio Cesare Barolo. The similarity of Nebbiolo to Pinot Noir was not lost on the guests. Of course darker and more severe in fruit, with sour berry and brick and earth too. This was a lighter, elegant but truly traditional in flavour profile, yet modern in accessibility, the tannins supple and sweet and sour in fruit.

We raise a toast to you Brickers, for such generosity! You’re solid as a brick, mate!

Family Fare

2011-10-26T03:23:00.000-07:00

With members of the family all together, a visit to the Martinborough vignoble was in order. Accompanying SWMBO and myself were Jubes, Mags, Wilco Johnny, Lithe Lisa, Flautist Aaaron and Dave-Man, making a lively party keen to taste wine. The aim was to visit producers run by families, to make the day a family affair.

After a heady drive over the Rimutakas and a settling coffee with muffins, we converged on The Cabbage Tree Vineyard where owner and winemaker David Bull showed us his hands-on artisanal operation. It’s just him and his wife Winifred here. The group liked the riper, subtle, stonefruity and weighty 2008 Cabbage Tree Semillon. I was more taken by the 2008 Cabbage Tree Chardonnay with its bold palate and prominent oaking. Fitting right in the Martinborough mould of ripe, savoury fruit and substance with structure, the 2008 Cabbage Tree Pinot Noir was also well-received. Cool, herb-like flavours marked the bouquet of the 2008 Cabbage Tree Merlot, this redeemed by the milk-chocolate flavours and richness on the palate. This first visit was an excellent and very personal introduction to the delights of wine growing.

The next call was to the BioGro certified Vynfields and a session with the elegant owner Kaye McAulay. The classy setting of the two storey villa was the perfect backdrop. We were the first public to taste their NV Vynfields ‘Bliss’ Sparkling Riesling. Though with 20 g/L rs, this seemed drier, but the same lovely lime and honeysuckle flavours were on show. A 2010 Vynfields Dry Riesling was just that. Dry, minerals and limes and a firm line. The 2009 Vynfields ‘Mad Rooster’ polarised the group, some enjoying the savoury spicy confected flavours, the others finding it too rustic. There was no doubt about the stylishness of the 2010 Vynfields Pinot Noir, with its excellent fruit depth and fine, proportioned lines. Talk of organics and biodynamics made us all feel a little more moral and righteous, and we enjoyed our time on the higher ground.

Wine-fuelled hunger drove us to see Marvellous Marvin at the meal-time diner. That refreshed us adequately to continue our vinous journey to meet up with that petit-powerhouse Helen Masters, winemaker at Ata Rangi. This is truly a family concern, with hubby Ben in the background and Clive and Ali, sibling owners all on hand. The new season releases were tasted. A 2011 Ata Rangi Summer Rosé was a benchmark for the style with its bright red fruits and thirst-quenchability. The 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Craighall Chardonnay was as rich and textured, and as complex as the last time I saw it. The new 2010 Ata Rangi ‘Crimson’ Pinot Noir shows its cooler fruit-ripening build up, and was racy and zesty in a fresh and lively way. Much more complete was the 2010 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir. While it shows the vintage too, it is on another plane, or should I say planet? Rounding off the tasting was the 2011 Ata Rangi ‘Kahu’ sticky. Minerals and marmalade, tight and ageworthy, yet already deliciously luscious and decadent.

Our final port of call was the giant of the region, Te Kairanga. Also family-owned, in this case by the Foleys, GM Andrew Shackleton gave us a tour of the impressively functional engine room. Then off to a tasting. The 2010 Te Kairanga Sauvignon Blanc showed very good gooseberryness with some weight and body. A range of Chardonnays was my pick. The 2009 Te Kairanga Chardonnay citrussy and oaky, quite up-front and clear-cut was surpassed by the 2009 Te Kairanga ‘Runholder’ Chardonnay showing more barrel-ferment creaminess and nutty oxidative complexities, which in turn was surpassed by the 2008 Te Kairanga ‘Casarina’ Chardonnay, more complete still. The same progression was seen in the Pinot Noirs, the 2009 Te Kairanga Pinot Noir fruity and linear, quite correct, then a more rich and sweeter 2007 Te Kairanga ‘Runholder’ Pinot Noir, showing some mushroom interest. Even more savoury and gamey was the 2007 Te Kairanga ‘John Martin’ Pinot Noir.

By then it was time to head back home, over the hill, to proceed with the evening activities. They say a family that plays together, stays together. Very true indeed.

Touring On-Premise

2011-10-18T03:23:00.000-07:00

Had a little job at one of our top flight eateries, talking to some of the new staff about the New Zealand wine scene. They were a young, but enthusiastic bunch, and well-trained in their craft, but still relatively uninitiated in wine. The cool, maritime influenced climate, concept of regionality and terroir were discussed in the briefest time, as were the ideas of winemaker signature, plus wine and food synergy. The bottom line was that nothing can be better than to visit the regions and be on the land.

The concept put forward by The Peeler was to taste a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir each from Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough, Marlborough and Central Otago. It was a selection The Peeler put together, and it turned out pretty interesting going on this vinous tour, with these on-premise people. SWMBO turned up in support and helped hold it all together.

First up was the Hawke’s Bay group, and the 2011 Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Sauvignon Blanc was crisp, clean, relatively subdued, but with clear-cut varietal gooseberry flavours. Its stablemate, the 2010 Te Mata ‘Elston’ Chardonnay was a stunner. A combination of concentration with stylish elegance. Grapefruit galore with perfect mealiness and nuttiness, creamy barrel-ferment and crisp, racy acidity, just carrying the flavours for ages. There’s about as much Pinot Noir as there is Cabernet Sauvignon in The Bay, but it figures less than 8% of the region’s plantings, so it was Merlot. The 2009 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Merlot was another outstanding wine. Still dark purple and tightly bound, there was no mistaking the ripeness and richness of the plummy fruit and fine tannin grip. A great showing from these three from the region.

Then onto Martinborough. An interesting older wine came in the form of the 2010 Ata Rangi Sauvignon Blanc, some bean character, but lush and full, still full of sweet fruit and a with a touch of decadence. The 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Petrie Chardonnay also showed some bottle –development character. Savoury fruits, but tight and with linear power. Then a 2009 Porter’s Pinot Noir, quite restrained, but with the expected structure and slightly gamey complexity to the fruit. This had a touch of herbs too, which was both a positive for interest and a negative for indicating a cooler note. The region only makes up less than 3% of the country’s total plantings but the reputation is much bigger. I’ve seen better examples than these, but they weren’t exactly bad!

Marlborough accounts for more than half our plantings, and on that count is our most important region. An even older wine was the 2009 Auntsfield ‘Long Cow’ Sauvignon Blanc. More bean-like, but with considerable fruit sweetness and weight, making it nearly unctuous. An easy wine to underestimate would be the 2010 Mahi Chardonnay. Elegant, citrus and mineral with flinty lees complexities. There’s plenty built in here and I reckon it’ll keep well. Then the surprise find of the day, a 2009 Charles Wiffen Pinot Noir. Chock-full of ripe raspberry fruit, sweet, lush juicy and extremely vinous, with ideal tannin and acid balance. They say Marlborough will be the Pinot Noir engine room, making good quantities of good value, good quality examples. The other regions won’t be able to compare on these three counts taken together.

Then to the far south, Central Otago. As Chardonnay accounts for 4.5% of the plantings and not considered to be ‘there’ yet, we had a 2008 Mt Edward Riesling. This found favour with everyone. Slightly sweet, with citrus and florals and a generous, but not overbearing fruitiness. A touch of honey, but no toastiness yet. The perfect anytime sipper. The 2010 Rippon Sauvignon was one of those raw, complex, wooded styles. Not liked in general, but I thought it a bold wine and good effort. Nettles, spices and nectarines on a substantial palate. The final wine was a 2009 Wanaka Road Pinot Noir, a second label for Mt Edward. Light, supple and friendly, it didn’t have the typical fruit-bomb black cherry fruitiness, but rather, soft red fruits and a more gentle nature.

I think the on-premise folk found it useful. It was a good recap for me, in any event.

Sporting Chance

2011-09-24T13:02:00.000-07:00

It was very sporting of Peteski and Janski and family to host a dinner on the night of a significant football game. SWMBO and I had Radiohead in our company, and with the likes of AC Electric Man and The Relish on hand, there was plenty of conversation. Wine discussion came up against general chit-chat and gossip and of course the big game, but in the end, every topic was a winner on the night.

With the nibbles and starters, we had the whites. A 2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Gaba do Xil’ Valdeorras Godello wonderfully refreshing and zingy from the elevated acidity, nice tropical fruit notes, and a genuinely pleasant sipper, surprising a few drinkers. A relatively simple wine, but exactly as it should have been. A great contrast was the 1998 Marc Bredif Vouvray, easily more golden coloured and the most satisfying fresh waxy, but subtly secondary nose, and richly textured, slightly honied, but refreshing palate. A little reduction fitted in with the interest and development flavours. The Relish had enjoyed a range of these earlier and wasn’t quite as happy as I was on this. A treat for me though. The third was a 2009 Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay. I had been impressed with this earlier in the year, but on the field, it was still a newbie, with potential, but not showing as much as it could. Good ripe citrus and mealy fruit with nutty oak overlay, but no nuance yet. It’ll be better in another 18 months.

Marking half-time, AC Electric Man brought out his 2005 Craggy Range ‘The Quarry’ and it was a tight, brooding and firm beast. It gradually revealed its pedigree. Dark, concentrated ripe black fruits, massive, but fine-grained. A star in the waiting really, but it improved through the night.

Hearty chicken dishes appeared on the table, vegetables and salad, and it was onto the next phase of play with the wines. 1986 was a high-cropping vintage for Hawke’s Bay reds, but it was fascinating to see the 1986 Te Mata ‘Awatea’ alongside the 1986 Te Mata ‘Coleraine’. Both were faded garnet in colour and medium-light weighted, the tannins forming a residual line and thread through the palates. The former showed herby, sappy, blackcurrant leaf aromas and flavours, the coolness and low ripening exacerbated by acidity, the latter moderately ripened red fruits, but with sweetness and a harmonious mouthfeel. This is consistent behaviour for these labels, even when they were single vineyard wines as with these 1986s, and after, when they became blends of sites and made to a style.

Two other Bordeaux-themed reds followed. The 1980 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was also in the cooler, elegant spectrum, but sweeter and richer again over the two New Zealand oldies. Juicy minty notes and a core of fruit made this a good wine. And the extraction of fruit provided the structure where the tannins here were now becoming fully resolved. This wasn’t the case with the 1982 Ch. Rahoul Graves. A solid, chunky wine with earthy heart and a hard edged palate, AC Electric Man enjoyed this, but SWMBO and I saw robustness and coarseness. In its favour, it was still very alive and vital, with no brettanomyces. So it had a good outing and could be counted as a player.

The final tipple was a 2005 Waimea Estates Noble Riesling. Dark golden mahogany and incredibly sweet and concentrated. Huge botrytis ‘flytox’ characters with burnished, broad caramelised and candied fruits. A sip was all that was needed. Over the top and good with it.
It was good to give these wines a sporting chance to show, and they performed as they should have, if not better than expected, making the night a winning one.

Departure Lounge

2011-09-07T13:47:00.000-07:00

Marking a departure, we set up in our lounge and set out to have a few drinks with the Young New Trader and AC Electric Man. It was a pleasant time reminiscing over good times and discussing plans for the future. We settled in and the bottles began to flow is we laughed and joked and solved the problems of the world.

We set off with a trio of 2010 Sileni Estates Hawke’s Bay Chardonnays, the ‘Cellar Selection’ quite light and simple but with a really attractive sweetness that made it very drinkable. Up a step was ‘The Lodge’, rich, citrussy, mealy and beautifully textured from the barrel-fermentation. This is drinking so well now, and is surprisingly elegant for all its richness packed in. However the ‘Exceptional Vintage’ was something else with its extra depth, concentration and weight. This wine spoke ‘potential’, because at this stage it was restrained in flavour.

The next step was to journey to Australia, and explore two classic styles. A 2009 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon had richness, softness and breadth, with a core of blackcurranty fruit. The palate was mouthfilling and sweet, and fully textured with soft tannins. This was a solid, but fleshy number. We went 30 years back in time to a 1979 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, a multi-gold medal winner in its time. Lighter, with herb and stalky notes and considerable acidity. Intriguingly this morphed into dark berry fruits and smoke, chocolate and toast in the glass, and then back to the cooler herbaceous side, then to the complex expression again. The good thing was that it was spotlessly clean with no animal or grubby characters. Then a relatively youthful 2001 Lowe Hunter Valley Semillon. Bright light golden, this flowed with waxy, toasty herbal aromas and a soft textured shy-flavoured lanolin-herb and floral palate that suggested it could handle another decade of bottle-age. This was much tidier than the previous bottle a few months ago.

The destination next in line was Europe. The 2006 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Altos de Lanzaga’ Rioja was extremely fine, tight and New Worldy with slick dark red berry aromas and flavours, ultra-smooth and fine tannins, and a healthy dose of cleansing acidity. It could have come from nearly anywhere bar a savoury sweetness that hinted of its origins. We were surprised by how grunty and fleshy the 2006 Ch. Leoville-Poyferre St Julien was. SWMBO was distracted by the detracting brett, but the rest of us were quite accepting of its influence. Ripe enough, with lots of bacony-charry oak that went gamey, then fruity. Another multi wave, multi-layered wine of significant presence.

After a round of pizzas to soak up the savoury whites and hearty reds, we needed palate refresheners, so it had to be Mosel Riesling! The 2009 von Kesselstatt Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett was a beautifully nuance wine with nuances of yellow flowers, and substance. An eye opener because this site usually provides delicacy, cut and steel. Sealed in cork, this may have matured a little more quickly than in screwcap. It overshadowed the 2009 Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, which was tight and a little reductive. That’s what can happen with scewcaps. However, the legendary slate showed through, and we believed this will come right in time.

The night was drawing to a close, so a forage in the cellar found a rare 1975 Cooks Vintage Port. Cabernet Sauvignon-based with a swag of gold medals behind it, this was more the sweeter Portuguese-family style rather than the dry British-family based style. Faded rose colour, with a very fine, elegant, ethereal-fruity nose, the palate balanced sweetness of fruit and sugar with drying tannin grip. The most faint secondary character was beginning to show. Was this still young, or was it just a simpler wine? A tough point to debate, but the essential conclusion was that it was very drinkable. So it was drunk!

It was time to close the departure lounge. The AC Electric Man hopped into a taxi and departed home. The Young New Trader lounged downstairs to retire. We headed upstairs and departed to the land of nod.

Edgy Drinking

2011-09-04T14:48:00.000-07:00

This was not a session where we drank to the edge, but rather, a couple of edgy wines, edgy for various reasons. SWMBO and I regularly keep in touch with Lazza, but haven’t shared a few good bottles of late. It was the perfect opportunity to try out a few wines.

Opening the score was a 2005 Dirler Alsace Riesling ‘Belzbrunnen’, a rarely seen label here, but always worth the search. The Beret had obtained it in a recent visit to the family biodynamic domaine. This was the second bottle I have tried recently, this one broader and shyer than the first, with some toasty development and a touch of gentle oxidation. Quite soft and mellow.

So onto two Pinot Noirs from the same vintage. A 2008 Fromm ‘Clayvin Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, already showing plenty, and surprisingly so, as this label can be reticent, though not as quiet as the sister ‘Fromm Vineyard’ wine. Ripe dark plums, red fruits and dark red florals, with a plumpness and soft, roundness. Delicious stuff indeed. The 2008 Drouhin Griottes-Chambertin GC showed the cooler vintage with elevated acidity and fruit flavours with riper violet and dark cherry and some herb-stalk hints. It was the reduction that polarised us. Combined with the spicy oak, Lazza and SWMBO loved it. I was a little less impressed, but it grew on me. Certainly on the edge of ripeness, the 2008 burgundies need care in choosing.

Dinner was needed, and hearty duck, beef and venison made it onto our plates. Here we had a peppery, spicy, fleshy 2007 Heart of Gold Gisborne Syrah/Tempranillo. Its soft approachability and resolving tannins made it an easy pleasure. What a novel blend for N.Z. Followed by a tight 2009 Terrace Edge Waipara Syrah. This didn’t show much initially, but as usual, by the bottom of the bottle, it began to show aromatics and spiciness. There are some warm spots to grow Syrah down south, and Terrace Edge may be one of them.

Not needed, but opened anyway were two sweeter wines. The 2005 S.A. Prum Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese was everything good about Mosel wine. Poised with intense floral, slatey fruit, luscious sugar, creamy texture and cutting, refreshing acidity, all complexed with some toasty-kero. The bottle was drained with SWMBO as its champion. We did not disagree. Lazza gave a big plug for the 2004 Ch. Climens Barsac as well. Nougat was the overriding impression, and definitely more rich and fulsome than other Barsacs from this vintage. I love the 2004 Sauternes for the elegant proportions.

We all had a glass too much in the final analysis, but we were nowhere near the edge.

Going to Some Lengths

2011-09-02T16:45:00.000-07:00

I had to travel across the length of the island to reach The Beret and Glam Pam, but it had been on the cards for a number of vintages. Joining us for the evening was The Master, and after a session involving tasting over two dozen wines where The Beret had spent an inordinate amount of time, we settled in for some well-anticipated food.

The call to dinner was NV Nicolas Feuillate Champagne ‘Reserve Particuliere’. It hit the spot, with its good size, good fruit depth and all the right amount of autolysis and fruit in combination. I tend to overlook the label, in favour of the more prestigious, and I shouldn’t.

The main food course was beef, and The Beret pulled out a number of reds he’d brought all the way back from France. Some people go to any length to ensure a good drink! First was a 2004 Rene Monnier Beaune 1er ‘Cent Vignes’. A light vintage, but pretty and delightful, still fruity and fresh to a degree, and with good tannin structure underpinning it all. Nice clean fruit, and all in balance too. A bit more serious was the 2003 A-F Gros Savigny-les-Beaune 1er ‘Clos des Guettes’. This showed the drought harvest with its bright dark red plum fruit aromas and flavours. It is said that the 2003s show the New World ripeness, and this did to its benefit, as Savigny-les-Beaune can be a bit rustic and earthy. Roll-on global warming? And to ensure a balance, there was the 2002 Ch. Sociando Mallet Haut-Medoc. Definite blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon at first, but then the growing appearance of horses and farmyard from brettanomyces. Underneath it was a big wine, and fresh and lively, but this was getting dry and grippy with it.

A treat was a rarely seen 2005 Stentz Alsace Gewurztraminer ‘Cuvee de la Premier Neige’, named after the first snow, and thus a late-harvest wine. Full, golden, luscious honey, Turkish Delight and spices on a rounded unctuously texture beautiful palate. Pretty close to decadence.

The Beret pulled another vinous treat to seal the night. 1985 Calem Vintage Port. Garnet and fading in colour with a lighter bouquet, marked by VA, but seamless and lighter, but really delicious drinking, with just enough spirit cut, resolved tannins and good acidity. It’s nicer to go to port, as it shows you’ve travelled the long way through a good dinner. I could go to some length to drink this again!

A Sweet Show

2011-08-29T02:12:00.000-07:00

It was payback time. Gordy and Perfect P have been extremely kind to SWMBO and me over the last couple of years and no matter how much we have tried to repay the hospitality, we always seem indebted to them. So this time, we were to take them to a show. Not just any show, but a special one that would WOW them. And they accepted our invitation.

Before we headed out, we thought we’d try a new 2011 Brancott Estate ‘B’ Marlborough Noble Sauvignon Blanc. Initially I thought it would be a modestly sweet wine, as the spec. sheet said 23.2 g/L residual sugar. I thought it would be a lovely, mildly sweet intro to the night’s proceedings. On opening and sipping, it was a gloriously full-blown luscious and hedonistic number, showing only a vestige of varietal character and massive, but beautiful botrytis marmalade notes, We didn’t finish the bottle as I thought it prudent to preserve ourselves for what lay ahead…..

The show was indeed a WOW, and everything we had said it would be to our guests. We left feeling sweet so decided to cap the show with a glass and nibble. Along the waterfront to a Hip Hotel, where a 2006 No. 1 Family Estate ‘Cuvee Virginie’ Methode Taditionnelle appeared. This combines richness, intensity and size with finesse and layers of bready, yeasty complexity and seems to be coming more and more seamless. Great with the sashimi served.

We walked down the road and saw a Humming Place that beckoned. A number of tapas plates were ordered, and the wine to have was 2010 Te Whare Ra ‘Toru’, a Marlborough blend of Gewurz, Riesling and Pinot Gris. The perfumes stood out for me, with good acid zip, and a sweetness that went with anything remotely hot or spicy. What a nice combination of varieties.

Even though we were near replete, I led the group to a place my Ancestors would be happy with. Asian of course! And there we had a selection of Chinese desserts. Weirdly sweet, and challenging. Our wine choice was equally odd and provocative, a 2008 Telmo Rodriguez ‘MR’ Malaga, a mountain bush vine Moscatel wine at 13.5% alc. Lovely clarity of fruit, but touched with a savoury note for interest, and sweet, but not obviously overly so. It had its own character and stood up against the different desserts.

Then off home. But Gordy had a sweet surprise for us. Served blind, of course. Deep golden, mature orange in colour. Full, aged, harmonious, decadent waxy Semillon, botrytis and oak, and a trace of oxidation. Soft, lush, weighty and fully integrated, maybe a little too low in acid. Molten barley sugar with a little burning and just turning a little funky. It turned out to be a 2003 Ch. Rieussec Sauternes. I thought it placed in the 1990s and very developed. These 2003s are coming along quickly.

What a sweet wine showing the night turned out to be. And we still owe Gordy and Perfect P!

Comfortable and Cruising

2011-08-26T17:51:00.000-07:00

It’s been a little stressful for our little dinner group lately. Natural disasters, new work, some health niggles and pressures that seem to pop up out of nowhere, and we just have had to put off getting together. The situation has mellowed out for all and we are all comfortable and cruising now. We finally managed to meet up at Brucie and the Bassinet Babe’s for dinner. The Eventress was looking in fine form and The New Man must now be called The Settled Man. (Somehow ‘The Old Man’ doesn’t work!), and with SWMBO and yours truly, we were at it again opening wines and sharing gossip.

An NV Moet & Chandon ‘Brut Imperial’ started the proceedings, still fresh and quite delicate. Looked like a new shipment, as the brand seems to be ticking over quickly now. Another half year in bottle would see it show more depth, but we had no problem finishing what was a good starter.

A great cheeseboard came out and a 2009 von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett slowly built up in richness to go especially well with an ash-rolled chevre served with home-made quince paste. I was surprised by the delicacy of the wine, as it has seemed a little bolder, as this site is prone to be, in the past. Then a blast from the past, a 2002 Stonecroft Hawke’s Bay Gewurztraminer. Fully developed and getting golden, the varietal perfumes and spices had given way to burnished characters and an unctuous palate just starting to show signs of drying and bitterness. Remarkable really, and if it was the ‘Old Vine’ version, it may have surprised us even more.

Blind tasting red wines was the next phase, before the roasted lamb and vegetables. We nailed the 2008 Mt Difficulty ‘Long Gully’ Pinot Noir. Probably my wine of the night. Velvety smooth, with the perfect degree of richness, leaving the wine with a sense of finesse. Beautifully ripened red berry and cherry fruits with freshness and bright acidity. Seamless drinking, with restraint. Our host pulled out the stops with a 1996 Gaja ‘Sito Moresco’ Langhe, a blend of Nebbiolo, Merlot and Cabernet in near equal proportions. Powerfully constructed but flawed by considerable brettanomyces. This could have been a sensation. SWMBO corrected guessed Italian too.

The next was a 2004 Craggy Range ‘Le Sol’ Syrah, served not blind. Beautifully rich and not over-bearing in any way. Clearly varietal and without over-ripeness, this was lively, fresh, vibrant with a hedonistic sweetness and quite delicious. Probably the wine of the night for most of the team. Another blast from the past was presented next, blind again. The 1995 Pegasus Bay ‘Maestro’ Waipara Cabernet/Franc/Merlot. Garnet edged, past mature in colour. And distinctly herbal, stalky and acidic. But the aspirations behind the wine were evident. Fine and significant extraction, and a decent dose of spicy new oak was still a feature. I thought it older.

With the sticky pudding and ice cream came a 2009 Schubert ‘Dulce’ sweet wine, made from Muller-Thurgau from vines outside the cellar door in Martinborough and carrying 6.5% alc. A wow wine with its extreme richness, fresh cutting acidity, amazing spice and honey flavours overlaid with marmalade essence. My second wine of the night! And proof that Muller-Thurgau has its uses...

The effect of wine began taking its toll. We were getting too comfortable and cruisy. Time to head home until the next dinner where the catch up, gossip and wine opening and drinking will no doubt continue.

Moments of Magic from Montana

2011-08-11T20:30:00.000-07:00

There was a time in our wine industry that biggest was best. And in the 20-30 years ago period it was Montana Wines that was the giant. It has morphed into Brancott Estates nowadays and its pretty much still the biggest, but it isn’t necessarily seen as the best today if world-class, earth-shaking quality and style are the criteria. While today’s Montana still dominates the overall sales, back in the 1980s it also dominated in terms of innovation. New varieties, new production techniques, and the wines relatively affordable if not downright good value. Brancott does the latter part well still, today. And don’t forget, it was Montana that made a serious go of Marlborough, something that we can be proud of today.

Easy to reach in the drink-up racking was a selection of Montana Rieslings and Cabernet Sauvignons. They needed to be opened, and I wasn’t hopeful of too much magic in the bottles. Most of them I’ve tried before, with disappointing results, but a kinder frame of mind might have been a good approach.

First up, three bottles of 1988 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling. I’ve waded my way through a few bottles of this, wondering why I had so much to start with. It was the year of Cyclone Bola, which might explain a lot? All in the Montana proprietary claret-styled, slim-line bottle with the Montana crest embossed. Corks came out a treat and all in good nick, soaked less than half-way. On the label 12.0% alc., with 12 g/L rs, a TA of 7.5 g/L and pH of 3.4. Not much has changed, the formula still works for them today. Bottle #1 light golden, showing delicate, rich honied notes and a trace of oxidation. Palate similar, with lovely sugar/acid balance and though a thread of oxidation throughout, quite drinkable. Bottle#2 deep golden colour, dense on nose with deep oxidation and madeira like. Honied but blowsy and past it. Bottle#3. Palest yet, fine, tight, crisp and acidic with less fruit. “There are only good bottles” was the saying that came to mind.

Then two older bottles. The 1983 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling, a multi-gold winner in its day, a wine that Serena Sutcliffe praised when she judged the Air N.Z, Wine Awards way, way back. An ullaged bottle, with deep golden colour, some oxidation, dried out a tad, but honey and cream notes, with good acid, and a touch of burnished flavours. A core of quality could be detected. Magic! Then a 1981 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling, also ullaged, but in fine condition. More lean and thread, tight and delicately toasty. Not as rich or as concentrated as the 1983, but a delight, despite the line of oxidation.

There’s not much Cabernet Sauvignon in Marlborough now, but in the 1980s there was plenty. Montana’s Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon was always knife-edge, but ripeness was not being achieved consistently anywhere else, so the Montana wines were relatively acceptable. The vineyard was the Fairhall site and the wines ranged from 11.5 to 12.0% alc. with about 6.1-6.3 g/L TA, and aged in U.S. and French puncheons. The 1990 was dark mahogany-garnet with a solid, deep nose of blackcurrants, green herbs, minted chocolate, all quite in harmony. But weak on palate, somewhat stalky but smooth. The 1987 was lighter coloured, garnet and brick, lean, slightly grubby and corky. Leaf, acid, mustiness, and thinness pervaded this non-beauty. If it wasn’t corked, it wouldn’t be much better. Then a 1986, a little deeper in colour and with a gutsy, grubby nose of herbs, leaf and toasty oak. Mellowed out on palate, the acidity came through, but this was drinkable just.

Then onto an experimental 1982 Montana Wairau Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 11.5% alc. and aged 10 months in U.S. oak puncheons. It was an allocated wine at the time. Deep mahogany and garnet hued, this had an air of complexity and interest. Earthy-dirty, but currant, leafy, herb and stalk, all intermixed with oak toast. Same interest on palate, the acidity elevated, and savoury green. A little ugly in some respects, but this is Kiwi Cabernet, from Marlborough, 29 years old. Some forgiveness is required.

I found some good moments with these Montana wines in the final analysis. Not quite magical, but plenty to interest me and nostalgic as well…

No Hope Whites

2011-08-11T17:36:00.000-07:00

Clearing out yet another row of unwanted wines from a wine rack that we care not to look at, because the thought of opening the wines there have very little appeal. They are in essence ‘no hope whites’, but the demand for storage space for new wines that SWMBO has acquired meant that taking the corks out and tasting them was a must. We take the view that if the producer put the wine to bottles, they should at least be tasted, no matter where or when…

The younger wines first. A 1995 Te Horo ‘Aurora’ Sauvignon Blanc, at 11.5%. From Marlborough fruit, the year that it rained and rained, and made by the ever-so-enthusiastic Alastair Pain in the Kapiti Coast. Light golden straw colour, this had a reasonably vinous nose that was identifiably varietal, soft and not asparagus-like at all. However, thin and very acidic, and faded to not much on palate. Surprisingly in condition after all it had against it! This was paired, time frame wise, with a 1996 Villa Maria Private Bin Gisborne Chardonnay, at 13.0%, and “aged in French and American barriques”. Deep golden, but still together on the nose. Over-ripe melon fruits with some oxidation. And as expected blowsy and overblown now, the ripe fruit going heavy, and quite toasty from the oak. It was holding up, but on its last legs. SWMBO bought this after it was highly rated by various authorities, and it has done well.

Then onto the serious stuff (not!) A 1985 Montana ‘Wohnsiedler’ Muller-Thurgau, at 10.5% alc, proudly showing two NWC gold medals for 1983 and 1984. Orange coloured, very oxidised, and quite a thin, nothing wine. Even when it is passed its best, Muller-Thurgau can show its weakness! And the a 1987 Montana Marlborough Valley Chardonnay at 12.0% alc., fruit from the Woodbourne Estate, aged 12 months in French Nevers oak. TA of 8.2 g/L and it shows. Sophisticated for the giant Montana in its day, but now full-golden coloured, green nectarine fruit on bouquet, but aged and oxidised, but very oaky and spicy. The palate extremely acidic, and the toastiness from the oak sticking out.

Sure they were 'no hope whites’, but there was something to learn from them. To the winemakers responsible, my apologies for not opening them and drinking them at their proper times.

Falling Flat

2011-07-27T05:00:00.000-07:00

It was a chance for us to catch up with the 'Atta Girls' both of them lively and fun. The conversation was indeed bouncy and filled with seriousness and laughter. A couple of bottles brought out had all the credentials for adding to the vitality of it all.

Firstly, Germany with a difference for us. We usually have plenty of Mosel wines, so for a change a 2008 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Kabinett from the Rheingau. All very adequate, being soft, gentle with a modest richness, but somewhat out of kilter with the acidity. The end result a little sour and flat. This was disappointing, especially as SWMBO and I had visited the castle, and sat overlooking the Rhine from the restaurant, sipping a near 30 year old Spatlese. Maybe there's a reason why we stick with tried and true?

Next was the 2006 Montille Volnay 1er 'Carelle sous la Chapelle'. We've had this a few times now, the last bottle stunning with The Chairman. Alas, it was quiet and dull. It may have been the temperature? But as it warmed up, just not enough there. We waited and waited, to no avail. It filled up a little, but there was nothing special about it, and indeed somewhat flat.

It came to a trio of Aussie reds from Yalumba to lift our vinous spirits. The 2008 Yalumba 'Hand Picked' Barossa Shiraz/Viognier, just lifted, floral, exotic and spicy. Beautifully so, and with style. Then a 2005 Yalumba 'The Menzies' Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. When opened, it had a forward, earthy, near dirty nose, but it had become very varietal, but laced with sumptuous cedar spices and lush, sweet fruit. However, it was the moumental 2006 Yalumba 'The Signature' Cabernet/Shiraz. Layered and eveloving in glass to show great fruit depth and richness, along with an amazing array of spices.

These did the job and saved the day (or night). If we drunk it all, we would've needed to fall flat to recover!

A Bash For Two Birthdays

2011-07-23T19:58:00.000-07:00

We ambled down to one of our favourite eateries to meet up with O&E. There were two birthdays to celebrate and a few good bottles needed to be shared. O&E looked fab, and they were in good form. For openers, a 2002 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Rosé. Pretty to look at, but very substantial to drink. This surprised us all how dense and nearly unctuous this was in texture and weight. And as it warmed up, the autolysis amalgam just grew stronger. It was a very cold night, so the power and the body of the wine was a positive. It could have been a good food Champagne too.

Then with the entrée course, a 2007 Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio Sudtirol. A bit of a classic, as was the tier for this famous producer. Hinting at complex flintiness on the nose, it was clean and clear-cut, but with good textures and the subtle nuances mandatory for interest. And of course, it went with all the entrees from oysters to salmon and quail. The mains of pork belly, duck and beef had a 2002 Ch. Pichon-Lalande Pauillac to do the job. And it did, working with each dish without any conflict. The wine itself is tight and tidy, showing its vintage provenance. Archetype blackcurrant leaf notes, but with perfect elegant proportion. Fine drying tannins, and just enough fruit sweetness to let you know it could keep for another decade if need be. It will never be a blockbuster or show winner, but always a shy charmer.

We had a platter of cheese presented, and that was the cue for the 1996 Ch, Guiraud Sauternes and 1997 Ch, d’Yquem Sauternes to come out to the table. The former darker burnished gold, with forward caramel and lozenge aromas and flavours. Some phenolic dryness especially on the back palate suggested it will decline soon. Nevertheless a brassy Sauternes that still had good richness. The latter wine was a step up and backwards, as could be expected. Light golden in colour, this had a flashy, deep lanolin and waxy-marmalade and honey-packed nose lifted with VA and a hearty dose of new oak. The palate certainly fruity with youthful characters, the wine yet to become really complex and of interest. Yet the sheer class, richness and potential was all there. It’s a ripe, full and solid Yquem, and better because of its youth. I reckon it’ll be one of the better releases. But it sure delivered plenty for the two birthday people.

Bit of a Bash

2011-07-21T01:34:00.000-07:00

Out to the Chinese eatery, as a bit of a birthday bash, with Towering Mike, Krystal Kirsty, Stellar Star, the Young One, Jolly Jol and SWMBO. A bit impromptu, but such occasions can be the best.

The wines were just perfect for it. A rare, up-and-coming 2009 Fairbourne Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. You couldn't get anything more Loire-like. Made by Russell Hooper and Sarah Inkersell who may take the Savvy world by storm one day - and probably sooner than later! Then a 2009 von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett, rich and plump, quite exotic as Middle Mosel can ever be. Slight reduction that gave gave to subtle richness. A beauty. Then an outstanding 2006 Felton Road 'Block 5' Central Otago Pinot Noir. Forest floor, with utter sweetness underneath. As it saw air time, the most spectacular structure came evident, showing this could age another 8-10 years.

The food was spot on, and the company, especially Stellar Star was exemplary and funny. You couldn't ask for a better birthday present.

Outside The Norm

2011-07-20T13:31:00.001-07:00

A visit to our largest vignoble last week gave SWMBO and I the chance to taste hundreds of wines. Most were current release wines, but many were unfinished current vintage numbers that were still sitting in tank or barrel. It was a welcome change at dinner to have something a little different, somewhat out of the norm from what our business day was offering.

The following were tasted over three meals, but I’ll note them in style. The Rascal and Savvy Sarah love the 2010 Te Whare Ra ‘Toru’ at their favourite Asian eatery. This Gewurz, Riesling and Pinot Gris blend hits all the spots with the food. Mildly perfumed, with acid zip, and good textural integrity, and just enough sweetness to meet a little heat and spice. Chalk one up for blending, and two bottles over the meal for us!

The Riesling Man did options on a couple of whites. Of course, we were predisposed into thinking he’d serve aromatic whites, arguably his first love. A 2009 F.X. Pichler Sauvignon Blanc Smaragd Loibner Steinertal threw us off-track away from success straight away. Spices and weight, rounded textures, almost Alsace-like, then finally the herb nuances opening up at the end. 13.0% alc. on the label. And a very petite white burgundian styled 2007 Domaine Gavenet Cotes du Jura Chardonnay ‘Grusse en Billat’. This revealed its variety slowly but surely, and its provenance, just east of Burgundy could be deduced.

It’s much easier when wines are served open. The Great Grape Grower had us around for a curry, and he served the 2009 Fevre Chablis 1er ‘Vaulorent’. Not as ‘out there’ as the 2008 tasted around this time last year, but significant extract and oaking made this a special number. It’s worth the asking price over the other premier crus.

We had a couple of Aussie Hunter Valley reds just to give something different to the Riesling Man. A 2004 Brokenwood ‘Graveyard’ Shiraz at 12.5% was your modern, elegant interpretation. Trying to be aromatic and perfumed peppery, the oak spicing was dominant, and racy acidity was the focus on the palate. Very New Worldy, and reminded me little of the Hunter Valley. However the 2003 Wyndham ‘Black Cluster’ Shiraz 2003 was a different proposition. Funky, inky, gamey, earthy, but without anything truly sulphidic or nasty as the old vintages of yore had in spades. Something very interesting here, and very Hunter, probably a caricatured stereotype of the variety and the region.

Since we had been drinking young things with the Great Grape Grower and his entourage, we brought out the oldies. A comparison of 1987 Wynns ‘Black Label’ Coonawarra Cabernet with the 1987 Wynns ‘John Riddoch’ Coonawarra Cabernet – commercial release vs the super-premium. The 1985 and 1986 John Riddoch tasted with The Chairman last month were fab. Here the Black Label was gentle, smooth, still showing blackcurrant fruit with mint, cedar and dust. A slip-down drink. The John Riddoch was hard, harsh and acidic, with pushed-to-far oak, and disjointed components. This is how some of these have gone with age. The 1993 is an example. Hamo thought it slightly corked, and I could see that too.

Expect the Unexpected

2011-07-04T00:52:00.001-07:00

We were graced with the presence of Gordy and Perfect P. The time with them could be expected to be a good one. They are a vibrant couple, with lots on the go, and we could expect them to look after themselves to some degree. And so it was. What we didn’t expect was for Perfect P to cook us a meal at home! Gordy being in charge of the wines had a couple of ‘Options’ lined up for us. It was to be expected. We had a a couple of ‘Options’ line up for them. That too was expected. But how the wines turned out was unexpected.
To set the scene, we opened a 2006 No. 1 Family Estate ‘Cuvee Virginie’ Methode from the famous Daniel Le Brun. It is a tribute label to Daniel’s daughter, and it really is sophisticated. Last time SWMBO and I tried it, it was backward, and seemed to need time in bottle. However, on opening it was harmonious and together and very now. A very pleasant surprise. Lovely autolysis, and waves of flavour.
Then to the mystery whites. Served blind, a 2005 Keller Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken from the Rheinhessen was a tough one to figure. It smelt very German, but the dryness, highish alcohol and body suggested Alsace. A beautiful drop, with gorgeous ‘custard and cream’ from bottle-development, and great interest in flavour. If you were critical, it seemed forward too. The acidity was soft and lowish. Both SWMBO and I chose Alsace as our answer, with the proviso it seemed from over the border (at least in our minds). From the Rheinhessen and sitting at 13.0% alc. All that was unexpected, but in retrospect, it all made sense.
Our contribution to the blind game was a 2005 Nicolas Joly ‘Clos de la Coulee de Serrant’ Savennieres. A classic from this biodynamicist. Golden and terribly oxidised on nose, this partly redeemed itself with body and sweetness and richness in this dry wine. We were all disappointed. We’d been told that Joly recommends decanting 24 hours in advance, so it was interesting to follow. Unexpectedly, it began to lose its oxidative nose. Pineapples were seen by SWMBO. Gordy could see ultra-late picking. He could have guessed Rhone white. With 15.0% alc., one could see why you’d go down this track. But, Gordy said Chenin Blanc – and correctly. As time went on, the wine got cleaner and richer, but also sturdier and hotter. You could not expect to understand how this wine would behave…and I don’t think we can yet…
On to the reds, as Perfect P was cooking up the venison racks. Gordy’s red seemed so Bordeaux-like, with lovely dark berried-plummy fruit on the nose, but the richness on palate that ensued was so unexpected. Game, leather, juiciness and great tannic structure marked what was the wine of the night. It was 1999 Antinori ‘Solaia’. Yes, Bordeaux in Tuscany. SWMBO queried brett, but no, it was complexity, and the wine got sweeter, yet more structured with drinking. Cabernet Sauvignon CAN work in Tuscany, we all reckoned.
Then a 2001 Rostaing Cote-Rotie ‘La Landonne’. Much more elegant and considerably more acidic. The freshness and raciness spoke of Cote-Rotie rather than Hermitage or Cornas for sure. Lovely gentle savoury fruit development, then a huge whack of bacony oak and luncheon meat complexity that Perfect P could see. We’ve seen this label with an unhealthy amount of the horses in the past, and the cleanliness was a little unexpected.
To tie up the evening, no guessing games, unexpectedly so, but at that time of night, much easier and better. 2004 Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes. Sheer elegance with richness. I love these 2004s, even though they are not the best rated. This is really harmonious and soft textured. Rieussec seems more flashy and Suduiraut has lovely tension, but this is sensuous. Expected.

Outpourings

2011-06-26T15:24:00.001-07:00

It was a bit of a reunion with the old crew from a wine show a few years ago. A lot has happened since then, and when we all got together, out came all the news and what was on our minds. The Chairman and the Jelly Bean Girl were in transit, so it was a welcome stop-over as far as SWMBO and I were concerned. The Sabre Girl and Hutch we had met up with recently, and they had plenty of family news too. Pouring of wine helps the process, and a general pairing of them helped make the reunion a vinously interesting one.

As is the norm, bubbles really set the scene well. A 2003 Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage Champagne was delightfully rich, up-front and nearly bold. The dosage was particularly evident, and made the wine lush in a vintage that could have resulted in flabbiness. Then came the 2002 Pol Roger Champagne Rose, possessing that elegance that marks the house style. Succulent and with a luscious finesse, the soft red fruit characters totally harmonious.

Moving on to whites, two absolutely divergent styles. The 2004 Jaboulet Saint-Peray ‘Sauvageres’ was a wonderful surprise. Real freshness for this 100% Marsanne, with lovely white stonefruits and delicate spice from the oak. Initially pleasing was the 2007 Paulinshof Brauneberger Kammer Riesling Spatlese ‘feine herb’. Lovely rich honeyed nose, but oddly lean and lacking substance on palate, despite the 12.0% alc. The wine seemed forward, and even more so as we drank it.

A bit of a lead-in with a lighter red was the 2006 Montille Volnay 1er ‘Carelle sous Chapelle’. We’ve loved this before, for its elegance, but tonight much more substantial, with dense fruit, structure and a bit more oak than I remembered. This ended up being wine of the night…

The main course was served with a quartet of wines. Actually two pairs, each pair being a 1986 and 1985 together. Wynns ‘John Riddoch’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, and Ch. Montrose St Estephe represented in both vintages. In some ways, the vintages should have been of the same ilk. 1986 more ageworthy, and 1985 more classic. And that’s how they turned out. The Aussie pair stole the limelight. The 1986 dense and dark, with firmness and boldness. Real concentration and time to go. That super-ripe fruit and powerful oak in balance. The 1985 was more gentle, more layered, and flowed across the palate with nuance. Most of the group plugged the 1986, the Chairman and I went for the 1985. The clarets were more secondary in character, both showing some horseyness. Drier too, and without the fruit sweetness. The 1986 rather locked up, and austere, being rather hard, but with concentration. Maybe this could go another two decades? The 1985 softer and broader, more evolved, but also more bretty. These French numbers just weren’t that enjoyable!

The night was ending, so came the 2004 Ch. Rieussec Sauternes. I love the elegance of this vintage, Semillon oiliness and waxy textures, just enough ripeness and kindly botrytis. So drinkable. The Riuessec very modern and shiny, and with style and impeccable cleanliness. This ‘New World’ style seems to be more prevalent with the Rothschild ownership. Whatever the reason, it was still a hit at the end of the evening.

A Dozen 2009s

2011-06-21T12:24:00.000-07:00

It'd been a while since I'd caught up with The Rascal, but there he was, at the tasting billed as a Dozen 2009 wines, a vintage generally deemed to be a top one in Europe. Cheeky as ever, but with insight and the ability to sum up a person's character in just a few words. The twinkle in his eye leaves you in little doubt why he has that moniker from me...

And the wines? A 2009 von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett of great delicacy typical of the Saar. Subtlety is the key word here, and an easy wine to miss in a line-up, followed by 2009 Geltz-Zilliken 'Rausch' Riesling Kabinett, with lovely purity, steel, and a hint of decadence by way of its honied notes. Gorgeous. The third German wine a 2009 H. Thanisch-Erben Berncasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese was marked by reduction, but carried far more typical Middle Mosel weight. Given a decade plus, these reductive wines can come together amazingly.

French whites began with a 2009 Ch. Gaudrelle 'Turonien' Vouvray Sec, crisp, clean, white florals and stonefruits, a little leanish for me, butagain with delectable delicacy for others. Chardonnay next with a 2009 Corsin Macon-Villages, again a lighter style, but showing complex oak barrel nuances and remarkably sweet fruit. A step up was the 2008 - yes, an error - 2008 Corsin Saint Veran 'Vieilles Vignes'. More depth, more concentration and interest, and better with an extra year of bottle age. Worth the extra asking price of $6.00 over the previous wine.

The top 2009 Bordeaux wines are yet to be released, but two cheapies gave an indication of what's to come. A lovely primary fruited, spotlessly clean, supple wine with real Merlot tobacco was the 2009 'Comtes de Tastes' Bordeaux. It makes some of our Merlot wines 2-3 times the price look wrong! More what I expected was the 2009 Ch. Fongaban Cotes de Castillon, darker and with more extract, but a little rustic, as can be the case.

A bracket of Rhone wines finished off the 2009 line-up. Firstly the 2009 Fondreche 'Mas O'sud Cotes du Ventoux, plump, ripe, lush and an easy approach with a juicy burst through the palate. The 2009 Vendemio 'Regain' Cotes du Ventoux was lifted with a little VA, which reduced the real fruit expression, but more structure was the key. A wine to take a wee gamble on. Far more gutsy and traditional with the taste of garrigue that is often written about was the Aphillanthes Cotes du Rhone Villages 'Vieille Vignes'. Blacker fruits and earth too. Much more to look at in the glass. Then finishing with a 2009 Ch. Saint Cosme Gigongas, the classiest of all the reds, with fine-grained tannin structure and a stylishness to the near opulent fruit.

The Rascal never puts the pressure on you to buy anything, and that's his charm. SWMBO and I will order a few of these wee gems soon...

Getting Together

2011-06-05T14:06:00.000-07:00

It has taken a year for Brit Biker, Tigger, Teacher Ma'am and Niggle and us to get together. Much has happened in that time, and the catch up was full of news and progress. We face changes and continue to move forward. Brit Biker had prepared a good lamb rack for dinner, and the wines flowed around it.

For starters, a wine from the Czech Republic, from the Suche region, a 2009 Michlovsky Palava Sauvignon Pozdni Sber. As far as I can tell, Milos Miklovsky bottles wine showing terroir, this from the Palava area, a 'late harvest' wine coming in at 13.5%. It wasn't Sauvignon as we know it, but very delicate and faint in varietal character, but it had vinosity and balanced freshness. The perfect aperitif, actually, and it surprised us all. Then onto a 2009 Spade Oak Viognier, sealed with a 'Vino-lok'. Rich, dense, still firm. But very varietal and exotic, with a bit of oak showing too. This is going to develop pretty well.

Then the lamb was served. Judged to perfection, even pink inside. Moist and succulent with subtle, but distinctive flavour. Normally you'd think Bordeaux varietal, but no, it was a 2006 Montille Volnay 1er 'Carelle la Chapelle'. Elegant, but so clear-cut, with intensity and a core, yet so gentle. It got together with the lamb amazingly. The best 2006s from the Cote de Beaune can be superb. This was followed by a 2004 E&E 'Black Pepper' Barossa Sparkling Shiraz. Saturated purple red in colour, the nose was dumb and brooding. But rich, sweet and juicy on the palate, the ripe spicy fruit enriched by the residual sugar, but then kept in check by the growing feel of tannin grip. Strangely in balance, and quite sumptuous.

The cheese board came out. Very ripe double brie was the centre piece, with a cheve emerging as a beauty too. Two old Kiwis from a high yield year. The 1986 Coopers Creek Cabernet/Merlot was still dark and dense, robust and solid, with acid and greenness, but still full of vitality, without the spoilage I had seen before. It was hard to drink, but it was surprisingly alive after 25 years. Workable with the cheeses. The 1986 Stonyridge 'Larose' was uber-mellow and faded. There was nothing left of its personality and vinosity. Very smooth, sufficiently ripe, hints of berry fruit, just disappearing to nothingness, as we looked and sipped.

A sweet treat to finish was the 2009 Clearview 'Sea Red'. A sort of ruby port-lookalike. Fruity and sweet, but quite elegant. Sometimes this label has awkward bits hanging out of it, but this vintage was very much getting together, becoming a lovely mellow finish. It helped to make our getting together a success.

Subtle Forces

2011-05-31T11:53:00.000-07:00

After all the years and all the bottles, it never ceases to amaze me how subtle forces play on your perception and appreciation of wines, even those you have tasted many times. Dinner with Grunter and the Wandering winemaker was particularly mellow, as the other halves were a delight and fun. It made for a softly, sweet and easy evening. And the wines seemed that way too.

Nautilus Cuvee Marlborough Lot 602 is a bit of a mini Bollinger as far as I'm concerned. SWMBO has ensured a supply for all occasions. Tonight the dosage appeared much higher and the yeasty autolysis far more subdued. Delicios nevertheless, but more a Louis Roederer of old! And the under-the-radar 2009 Te Mata 'Zara' Viognier. In a world where explosive, high octane examples rule, 'Zara' tends to get left in the wake. And unfairly so. Over a lovely dinner it shone with its more delicate richness, lovely oily texture and hidden power that emerged in the glass. We would not have drunk so much of a show-stopper for sure, and we made it the wine of the night. And then a 2006 Hyperion Cabernet Sauvignon from Romania! First whiff - full of brett. Danger signal. But strangely it came and went, sort of like the topics of conversation. A touch dried out. But then great with cheese. The ripeness was good, the oak a little rustic, but it was 'fine' to drink.

To be aware of these subtle forces is important. We can see their effect, but also it is great to go with the flow. It makes life easy and enjoyable if you do.

Not a Dead Cert

2011-05-30T06:00:00.000-07:00

It's been a while since the last post, as work has been demanding. Part of it was a visit to Grunter's region to keep things humming, and I wasn't sure if we could stay. Nothing's a dead cert, since you can't impose, even on the best friends.

To make it sweeter, I brought along a 1983 Vieux Chateau Certan from Pomerol. Expecting the worst, but out came the cork in fine fashion. Long too. And only one-third soaked, and still firm. Dark hearted red with mahogany-tawny edges. A little autumnal on nose,and a bit resiny. Purists would see a little brett? But on palate sweet and vigorous. Good acidity. Loads of Merlot fruit cake and Cabernet berries. Complex, and still with time to go - another decade.

I wondered if it was going to be a goodie. The 1982 was even sweeter and lush. My fears were that it was a dead cert to be on its last legs or spoiled by the dreaded 'B'. No way. It was a restorative to believing and being positive.

Seafood Extravaganza

2011-05-08T00:32:00.000-07:00

We were off over the hill to meet up with our gourmet friends for a celebration of seafood. One keen kitchen confidential with our hosts doing the service matters allowed 10 guests, of which SWMBO and I to sit down and enjoy the creativity. The menu was provided in advance and all of the attendees brought along wines that might match the seven courses served up. When the food was dished out, we made our choices from the pooled wines. Some worked, some didn’t. But that’s the usual case when the wines are not tasted while the food was designed and prepared…

The Trio of oysters was delicious. Bluff oysters, of course, done natural, Rockefeller and as a shot. Unfortunately, most of us had finished our Champers beforehand. The NV Veuve Clicquot ‘Yellow Label’ medium weight with soft Pinot Noir fruit and moderate yeasty autolysis. A fresh landing, no doubt. And the NV Lanson ‘Black Label’, much weightier and more autolysis and aldehydic. Most preferred the former, but I went the latter.

Seared tuna rolled in Dijon mustard and herbs with lemon mayo and micro salad. A wow dish, with fantastic textures and rich surroundings. A 2006 La Viarte Colli Orientalide Friuli Pinot Grigo looked as if it was going to be too old or underwhelming, but it worked a treat, becoming sweeter, and enhancing the juiciness of the tuna. The big surprise was the 1998 Saints Hawke’s Bay Pinotage, beautifully smooth, cedary-spicy and light enough to match the tuna, and stand up to the mustard. The 2008 Hawkshead Bannockburn Pinot Noir was bold and too fruity for the fish, but a delight in its own right, in fact most excellent and very Bannockburn.

Saltiness was the problem in the Salt and pepper squid served with anchovy aioli for the wines to match. Both the wines were fully mature and without the ‘cut’ for the squid, and the saltiness was too much for the wines fragility. The 2007 Koura Bay ‘Sharkstooth’ Pinot Gris quite pear-like and rounded, the 2003 Pond Paddock Te Muna Chardonnay getting a little vegetal, but still intact on palate, though rather delicate.

My pick of the courses was the Crayfish ravioli, served in a bisque sauce. Sweet and fresh textured flesh with intense reduction. The Hidalgo ‘La Gitana’ Manzanilla Sherry meeting the bisque head on and powering through, but in the end the flavour was a little too light. A good amontillado would be even better. Unfortunately the 1998 Schlumberger Alsace Pinot Gris ‘Les Princes Abbes’ was too flabby and mature, the golden colour and apricotty flavours indicating botrytis?

Crispy skin John Dory fish, sautéed, on fennel and salsa verde. Mine just slightly undercooked, and it continued to progress to perfection. Subtle and sweet, with the herby influence. With three wines, there should have been a stunning match, but no. On their own, the wines were great. A 2008 Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett was gentle, crisp and faintly exotic in its sweetness, but too sweet for the fish. A 2004 Tyrrell’s ‘Belford’ Hunter Valley Semillon, only 11.0% alc, but lovely herb and waxy textured, and great finesse and depth. But rather austere for the dish. And the blockbuster, seriously concentrated, mealy, nutty, toasty and citrusy 2007 Villa Maria ‘SV – Keltern’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay. Just too powerful and oaky for the John Dory.

Duo of dessert time! A Lemon and thyme brulee, beautifully combining both citrus and aromatic herb, plus a Valrhona 70% cocoa chocolate mousse. A seldom seen 1999 Cofield Rutherglen Late Harvest Muscadelle at 9.2% alc did the job perfectly with the brulee. Stylish Muscadelle, rather than brash Muscat being the key to the match. A 2006 Kilroy was here! McLaren Vale Sparkling Shiraz had the right flavours for the chocolate, but was too dry. A lovely example of modern, balanced, non-excessive bubbly Shiraz, however.

We were getting close to being finished off, and the Cheese course did the job. A wonderful triple cream brie, and a Kapati Kikorangi blue, set beside a stunningly rich, spicy, integrating 1998 Rosemount ‘Balmoral’ McLaren Vale Syrah, misnamed, as it was definitely Shiraz. This was strong enough to wade through the creamy layers of the brie and stand tall with the flavour peak of the blue. Also a success was the Lauriston Show Liqueur Muscat, but this headed off to its own world of raisiny decadence. Perfect blend of fresh and old material, more on palate than on nose, just increasing in richness and intensity with every sip.

An amazing night of a range of seafood, and a great deal of fun trying to match the course with the range of wines. Must do it again!

A Mass of Wine Amassed

2011-04-18T03:07:00.000-07:00

After a particularly high powered tasting with The Real Mr Parker, it was time to settle down to a bite to eat. Each of the guests brought out their bottles to consume over the meal. There were too many wines to catch up with, but most of us had a go. I recall a number of them. Here they are in style order:

I never knew that the Rothschild Family had gotten into Champagne, but they have, and poured first was the NV Barons de Rothschild Champagne, in a plain and simply presented bottle, but with all the Pinot Noir and autolysis whistles showing. A full-bodied style that was meaty and food friendly. The other dry white was a 2006 Guigal 'La Doriane' Condrieu, perfectly plateaued now, with incomparable apricotty exoticness, orange blossom and superbly integrated oak. It's amazing how this starts off as a heavily oaked wine then just absorbs all that wood in a few years. These Guigals know a thing or two!

New World reds made a strong showing. There's been a lot of press about 1998 Martinborough Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir beating a DRC 'La Tache' recently. $150 vs $2,000. The Real Mr Parker decided to open his last bottle. Damn - corked! And badly too. The power of the wine could be made out, just! A 1997 Mission 'Jewelstone' Syrah was shy with its spice and pepper. Inoffensive, but without getting anywhere. They do a better job nowadays. And a 1997 Rockford 'Basket Press' Barossa Shiraz. Loads of ripeness, loads of black spicy fruits and lots of sweet oak. But just flat and dull overall. Wanting to be impressive, but never making it because of too much make up.

Then onto a Rhone bracket. Worthwhile comparing the 1997 Jaboulet 'Thalabert' Crozes-Hermitage with the 1997 Jaboulet Cornas. The former light, slightly weedy and plain, but with a finesse. The latter richer, firmer, gutsier and lush in a rough way. The surprise was the 1989 Ch. de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Rich, softly textured, dense with spicy red fruits and complex earth/game, but no brettanomyces! We couldn't believe our luck!

A Bordeaux set brought in a sense of style. A pairing of Chx. Montrose, the second growth from St Estephe. The 1984 was leanish and greenish and modest. Drinkable, but the acidity was elevated. Fruit weight barely there, but a fine-featured wine in the end. Better was the 1983, with fine, tight, classic blackcurrants and cassis showing fair ripeness. Some body, restrained tannin, but good acidity, all there to keep it alive and chugging along for another decade. It wasn't the star it is today. Then onto a 1983 Ch. Raymond-Lafon Sauternes. A great year for most Sauternes, the d'Yquem had last year quite sublime. This was beginning to dry and show the faintest signs of going decrepit. However, oily, rich, lemony lift, botrytis barley sugar and a touch of VA. Should have drunk this a decade ago?

Finishing it all was a little 375 ml Campbells Rutherglen Liqueur Muscat, elegant, harmonious, more fresh material than old, but nicely done. Some warmth and spirit, but really decadent and easy. This was an ideal finisher that gave us a sugar hit!

Good Jobs

2011-04-15T15:52:00.000-07:00

It had been a while since we all got together. We had a date lined up, but it got shaken to pieces with events down south. The news was that the blokies had all gotten jobs, good ones too, and were gainfully employed. No longer did The Eventress need to support The New Man, nor did the Bassinet Babe need to look after Brucie, and SWMBO with me! Celebrations all round!

So we kicked off with a fabulous NV Nautilus Cuvee Marlborough Methode. Lot 602 is the Champagne Bollinger look-alike, and it did a great job at opening the proceedings. Search for it, if you can. It's worth it. Then two older Rieslings. A 2005 Craggy Range Te Muna Riesling, rare as hen's teeth, was showing lovely toasty notes, just marred by a hint of reduction. But soft, North Island broad, and beautifully harmonious on palate. Perfect hint of sweetness. Wonder why they haven't kept this label going? This was paired with a 1999 Felton Road Dr Riesling. 11.0% alc. Much more linear, like going down a railway track. Great toasty notes with pronounced acidity, and lush creaming soda and custardy textures as in Mosel with age. I would have liked a whisker more sugar.

Heavy duty whites followed. They always do a good job with food. A 2001 Lowe Family Hunter Valley Semillon was full and waxy-toasty on nose. A portent of what might be on the palate? But alas no, there was nothing home except a nice rounded mouthfeel and vinous weight. Will check out the other bottle soon. The shining star, possibly of the night, was the 2006 Sacred Hill 'Riflemans' Chardonnay. It grew in the glass and showed its class with great complex mealy smoky richness. Wow, blam, pow! A thumpingly great guns wine.

As the antipasto platters dwindled, and the venison meatballs came out, we moved to two new-release Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noirs. Now Tim & Judy Finn, with winemaker John have done more than a good job on these 2009s. The 2009 Moutere was tight, backward, and had great weight, depth and power - just waiting to open out. A Richebourg of a wine! Then the 2009 Home Vineyard Moutere. Opulent, decadent, but with sheer class and style. My La Tache of Nelson Pinot Noir. A brilliant pair.

Then the obligatory oldies. Brucie brought along and served blind a 1990 Villa Maria Reserve HB Cab/Merlot. SWMBO figured it out straight away. Except for the year. She thought it 10 years younger, because while it had the secondary earth, dark berry and cedar, it was fresh and lively from the acidity. Very fine-grained, and drinking really well. What a good job the VM team did on those 1990s. At first the critics said 1989 was the better, hotter, riper year. But I reckon the ripening was slower with a better build up for 1990. These have lasted better than the 1989s. With all the talk of old times, out came the 1975 Ch. de Camensac Haut Medoc. I'd been hanging on to this one, not sure of what to expect. These 1975s were fearsomely tannic and hard in their youth. And a lowly fifth growth to boot. The 1975 Ch. Margaux we had recently gave some good hope. And how good was this? Super! Medium weighted, all in good proportion, full maturity, yet fresh and sweet with life ahead. It didn't have all the complex layers, but it wasn't dirty, grubby or spoiled in any way. Fulsome, round and a pleasure. We played 1970s music to celebrate, and SWMBO trotted around on her platform shoes that made her 6 inches taller (that's 15 cm for young folk).

Capping off the night with the baked, spiced apples was a 2001 Rolly Gassmann Alsace Gewurztraminer 'Brandhurst' Vendanges Tardive. Lovely spices, perfumes and hair oil armas, flavours and textures. Drinking beautifully with richness, kept in check by the 12.5% alc. But exotic and a bit of a standout. We sent our guests packing (voluntarily, of course), satisfied with doing a reasonably good job of the night!

Intensive Analysis

2011-04-09T14:48:00.000-07:00

What was to be a light-hearted catch-up with one of The Chairman's old friends turned out to be a night of intensive wine analysis. I suppose we all tend to get complacent about our abilities to taste and guess the origins and qualities of the wines we come across, but it's a big wide world out there, and there are amazing people with enormous reserves of knowledge and experience. Intensive Ian was one such man. Marvellous Marie, SWMBO and I were awe-struck by his palate. Even The Chairman has the greatest respect.

Starters came in the form of a 2002 Moet Vintage Rose, beautifully expressive of red florals and red fruits, soft, plumpish and a touch on the sweetish side, but I called it luscious. What a gorgeous starter indeed. The 2004 Kientzler Alsace Riesling 'Cuvee Francois Alphonse' was a controversial one. Some of us thought oxidised at first, but not Ian. He was adamant it was a 'corker', and as it warmed up, it became more 'waxy' and clean. Great richness, with tightness and wonderfully textured, rather than phenolic. For me I was in the 'hate-it' camp, but could understand its quality. Intensive Ian brought out a 2010 Eden Road 'The Long Road' Canberra Riesling to show the similarity in textures. I like this - clean, fresh, floral, limes and minerals. Bone dry, but nowhere the weight and complexing interest of the Kientzler Alsace.

Star wine of the night was the 2008 Christian Moreau Chablis 1er 'Vaillons'. A complete wine with flinty richness, if that's an oxymoron, but it was just that. Classical racy Chablis, but with everything there. Intensive Ian was also impressed, but also nonchalant, as he has this type of wine on hand all the time! This was followed immediately by the 2003 Ch. Pichon Baron Pauillac. Very modern, full and plummy with sweet roasted red plums and berries, plus earth and game. There was underlying tannin, but initially the fruit had it all over the grip. Air time brought out the drying brettanomyces. Truly a product of the hot, drought vintage. I'd drink this in the next 6-8 years.

The final wines were the pairing of 1985 and 1986 Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste Pauillac fifth growths, brought out from intensive Ian's cellar. The 1985 was Ian's pick at the time of buying. Now extremely horsey and spoilt by brettanomyces, hard and dry, but strangely vinous and I could imagine acceptable for some. There was a breadth and density here. The 1986 was much cleaner, lively, fresher with bright black berry fruits and a hint of resiny oak. Younger seeming than its 25+ years, but I always saw the 1986s more concentrated, acidic and classy over the 1985s which were more accessible and user-friendly.

The evening progressed to serious wine analysis and guessing to seriously funny banter. It turned out light-hearted and lotsa fun in the final analysis.

Comfortable in One's Skin

2011-04-05T14:34:00.000-07:00

We're pretty relaxed and mellow with The Chairman and Marvellous Marie. Being taken to new sites and shops, enjoying some good food and drinking nice wines, we are in a comfort zone. When you're like that everything in life seems to be a little better. Certainly our hosts are comfortable in their skin. The wines that have appeared on the table have also been comfortable in their skin - they taste as good as they should, and even better.....

An NV Pol Roger Champagne served, looked as good any bottle from this house I've tasted. There have been a couple of disappointments in recent times, where the NV has been over-elegant. The 2000 Vintage last month was aldehydic and a bit brutish. Not this NV, it was rich, flowing with layers of fruit and autolysis, and showing substance in the nicest way. The Chairman said it was fresh stock too, rather than coming from rested stock in his cellar. It restored my faith in Pol Roger after some niggling doubts.

Then a 2007 Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese #12, supremely pure, subtle, yet with gentle richness and sweetness. The Schaefers are operating at their modern best, everything consistent. When you know what you're doing, there is an extra element of seamlessness, and this bottle was that. Impressive delicacy.

The Chairman has been involved in wine production a very long time, and he can turn out nicely constructed wines or those that can be regarded as super-premium. A 2010 Miner's Folly Chardonnay from the Upper Hunter Valley came out too cold. I thought it a bit hard and distraught. Warming up, it settled into itself, to show a flinty, crisp, dry wine with length. Exactly what The Chairman wanted to create, a value-oriented, modern, Chablis-like style. He was confident and comfortable it would show that way, and it did.

There's always plenty of talk about how Bordeaux varietals overpower Sangiovese in the Super Tuscan genre. One of the originals, Tignanello has been doing it for over three decades and has got the formula down pat. The blend of 85% Sangiovese 15% Cab Sauv. with barrique aging, partly new works well with the fruit. Purists say its gone out of Tuscany, others say it's still there, in another guise. Whatever. It drinks well and is truly at ease with itself. The 2000 Antinori Tignanello was indeed a mix of Bordeaux flavour and tannin with sweetness, savoury cherries and good acidity that was Tuscan. While it was both, it was neither. Deliciously juicy, very approachable, but with restraint for food. The structure built in glass while drinking, keeping it very food-friendly. Its balance meant another decade in bottle was easily possible.

And then to match the after-dinner number we were shown a few nights before, out came a Seppelts 'D62' Museum Muscat. Lighter mahogany but still with green edges, the raisin, grapey, figgy, sultana decadence had a fiery, but fine acid cut, providing elegance, line and length. New material had been blended in, but there was no awkwardness at all. As complex as you'd ever want it to be, but just at another end of the spectrum in mouthfeel from the 'D64' Tokay the other night, with its acid zing and liveliness. We settled into a comfortable evening of sipping and solving the world's problems.....

New Normals

2011-04-01T12:46:00.000-07:00

Our catch up with The Chairman and Marvellous Marie as they settle into a new phase of life was very pleasing. New situations become the norm, and it also may be analogous to happenings that may be occurring in the Aussie wine industry. There seem to be questions on how traditional wine styles made are now less in tune with modern life, and the desire to be up-to-date vies with how tradition should be kept. I see both paths important. Wines should be great to drink with contemporary food, and be healthy, but the styles of the past are so characterful.

A good starting point was the NV Mumm 'Cordon Rouge' Champagne Rose. Mumm has cleaned up its act and put some real fruit and yeasty autolysis back into the wines, the Rose deliciously soft and rich with the faintest red wine fruit and texture. Drinking now and great as an aperitif. If they didn't keep up with todays needs, they would have been gobbled up (again).

The Aussie starting point was a 2009 Pikes 'Traditionale' Clare Valley Riesling. Instead of being hard, tight, firm and needing time for full accessibility, this was softer, less acidic and more elegant. Only 12.0% alc., and gently dry. This makes it approachable and broachable. Next in line was the 2008 Shaw+Smith 'M3' Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. Delightfully elegant, and not overly lush, tropical or sweet, but if anything, restrained and with reined-in complexity. Very European in structure, and very food-friendly. And without too much of those 'in-vogue' complex sulphides. I like the 2009 of this too, broader and a little richer, maybe more forward and open. These two seem to be pointing the way to a new norm with the varietal styles, and there is the same movement with Barossa Shiraz.

Maybe the Shiraz and indeed backbone reds need the modern outlook. A Wine Society-made 2008 Razor's Edge McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon was old-fashioned, what used to be consumer-friendly, sweet and jammy and a little to sickly for fresh drinking. Maybe good with heavily reduced sauce and hearty roasted red meat with lots of glaze. We don't eat this type of meat that often nowadays. Don't get me wrong; it was nice, but a relook at the everyday red style here would be a positive?

But to give credit to the unmatchable of tradition, a Seppelt 'D64' Museum Tokay was glorious. Dark mahogany with the prized-green edge. Dense and concentrated with molasses, preserved prunes and balsamic-like character, rather than the tea and fish-oil ethereal style, this could be left to mature in cask another half century to become even more complex and layered. I wouldn't mess with this time-honoured style!

Hard Yards with Old Chards

2011-03-30T01:52:00.000-07:00

They've been sitting there, in the corner for a very long time. For one reason or another, we just didn't want to open them. Of course, the longer they were left, the less appetizing they looked. We bit the bullet. Some old New Zealand Chardonnays, ranging from 1996 back to 1984. You see, you wouldn't really blame us for not going there.....we knew it could be hard yards tasting these.....

The opener was the 1996 Villa Maria PB Gisborne Chard. One of SWMBO's and it was good in its time, punching above its weight. 13.0% alc, aged in French and U.S. oak. You could easily see why it was a PB, and not a Reserve. Light, thin, stonefruits, some oxidation through the line. Not much going for it now...

Then a flight of 1992 vintage wines, also belonging to SWMBO. These were good, premium labels 15 years plus ago. And still are, actually. The 1992 Church Road HB Chard at 13.5% alc. The darkest of all the wines. Broad, flat dulled, loads of botrytis-like characters interwoven with oxidation and oak. OTT for sure. Should have been opened 15 years ago. Then a 1992 Corbans Marlb. Chard, 14.0% alc. 12 months in oak and MLF. Very fine in structure still. Tight, minerally, some oxidation and a little grubbiness. They were tight, crisp, powerful and funky then too. Then the 1992 Villa Maria Reserve Marlb. Chard. From the Waldron and Fletcher sites, still going today. 13.0% alc., 5 months in barrique and 25% MLF. This was the time that Grunter made the wines, in the sleek mould. Golden, full, over-ripe tropical fruit, clean, and way past its best, but not oxidised. A revelation as these Villa Maria wines can be. Gold medal at the 1993 Easter Show. Complex and just drinkable. Funny how the judges then could pick 'em!

Two 1987s followed. The 1987 Ngatarawa 'Alwyn' HB Chard, elegant and just a little attenuated. This was the suspicion at the time, and it still looked it. Refined in its day, and still so, but spoilt by oxidation. 13.0%. Alwyn was ahead of his time understanding the variety, like John Hancock. The 1987 Montana Marlb. Valley Chard was lighter in colour, vinous, dull and flat, with what we called the 'Montana Squirt' - the all pervading 'sameness' regardless of the variety. One theory was that the tanks were so big that there was still a portion of whatever else had been made in it, and the next lot picked and fermented was just added on top! We were cynics then! 12.0% may have been generous on the label.

Last wine was truly a slice of history. A 1984 Kaituna Hills Marlb. Chardonnay, one of the fancy 'Winemakers Selection' wines from Montana that were expensive and hard to access. Revolutionary for such a big company to allow winemakers to play. Stainless-steel fermented, then 3 months in new medium-toast Nevers oak. 11.0% on the label tells it all. Herbal and not really ripe. And understandable, but not forgiven, note of oxidation. Hard work to try these. But it was worth it, as some raised a few eyebrows.

Festive Selection

2011-03-20T14:40:00.000-07:00

The weekend was a busy one, with One Wheel Mike and The Baker in town, and along with Mags and Stumper, we headed over the hill to stay at the House of Hospo. Attending a wine festival set us in a great mood, and when we all settled back at our digs, we tried a few refreshing vinos to celebrate us all getting together, yet again. Having an amble among some vineyard plants was on the agenda, as well as celebrating Adam The Man's birthday. So we kept it all quite seemly...

An NV Laurent Perrier Brut set the scene. Always an enigma to me. Sometimes light and inconsequential, other times beautifully floral, elegant and refreshing. This bottle was in the latter camp, and had a bit of time on cork, which surprised us. We had a 2000 Pol Roger Vintage next. Darker in colour, heavier in aldehydes and oxidation. Not quite the finesse that Pol Roger normally displays. Was this bottle sitting upright on the shelves too long? Was there a reason it was sitting there, all on its lonesome, when we recently purchased it? Ah, the vagaries of Champagne, if you get into the minutiae if tracking its provenance.....

The whites were a study of richness. A new release 2009 Yves Cuilleron St-Joseph Blanc 'Lyseras' 50% Marsanne/50% Roussane. Dumb at first, but opening to show an exotic Viognier-like expression, with nice oak spice. A 2009 Terrace Edge Waipara Pinot Gris, just got richer, denser and more decadent in its restrained 15 g/L rs way. A bit of a steal, really. Then the new 2010 Dry River 'Lovat' Gewurztraminer, delicate, but creeping up in opulence and perfumes. It should develop well in bottle. A real statement was the 2008 Pegasus Bay 'Aria' LH Riesling. Honey, marmalade, limes, sweet, but just not cloying. A wow wine that can only be sipped at moderate pace, but then you can't stop...

Then a range of reds that is what wine celebration is all about. The 2002 Ata Rangi Martinborough Pinot Noir, lush and juicy still, but banging on the fungal drums with its secondary development. Getting on for me, but of real delight to many present. 25 years is a lifetime in New Zealand viticulture and winemaking terms, and the 1985 Babich Hawke's Bay Cabernet/Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings showed it perfectly. The Cab/Merlot was light, cool, stalky and herbal, but clean and remarkably fresh, and just drinkable. The Cabernet Sauvignon was a bit dirty, microbial?, but weighty and textured, with more balance. Take your pick, because we didn't get into them. Two 2000 vintage wines were much more interesting. The 2000 Mills Reef 'Elspeth One', a blend of Cab Sauv., Cab Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Syrah, was released as the flagship. SWMBO and I received a bottle as a gift. Still in good condition with a complex range of fruit flavours, but savoury, red berry and spices all together, somewhat lifted by some volatility. Tannins beginning to resolve. But no hurry. This alongside a 2000 Hardy's 'Thomas Hardy' Cabernet Sauvignon from Margaret River & Coonawarra fruit. Varietal blackcurrants, mixed with eucalyptus and mint and a hearty whack of spicy oak. All contained by a fearsomely tannic-building palate. Surprisingly inviting and drinking pretty well, really. But all of these were overshadowed by the mighty 1996 E&E 'Black Pepper' Barossa Shiraz. I'd love to try this with 1996 Grange. The E&E would be smoother, sweeter, more lush and juicy. And the Grange would be more structured and dense. But there wouldn't be much in it in enjoyment. We'd probably go for the former because it'd be more accessible, but still have the depth, power and potential to develop. It was a festival in itself!

In-Built, On the Line and Waiting

2011-03-10T07:57:00.000-08:00

These are three phrases that seem to represent the phases and life situation I've been experiencing lately. My work and indeed SWMBO's is based on the abilities we have acquired or have built within ourselves. We've put our livelihood and lives on the line by trusting and having faith in ourselves. My new venture is based on the modern airwaves - 'on-line' (now that's a pun!) But in truth we've been waiting to do it, and should have done it earlier. Our friends have told us this, and have been waiting for the fruits of my labour to show.
All of this came into focus when we had a surprise visit from Gordy. He's a bit of an inspiration for us, and indeed many other people with his tenacity, passion, and dry sense of humour. He is only the best, so only the best is good enough for him, as far as we are concerned.

To mark his visit, we opened a 1975 Ch. Margaux from the commune of Margaux, of course, and the three phrases seemed applicable to the wine as well. Dark as anything, but with mahogany hues to the colour, this was a solidly constructed wine with power, flesh, fruit and depth. While it showed those savoury, earthy, cedary signs of secondary development, it was remarkably clean, fresh, lively, with vitality and in a way, focus. No hint of the dreaded horsey brett. Tannins dissolved away, but remarkably structured and robust. Certainly less expressive of the commune of Margaux, and more a representation of the 1975 vintage with its size. This was a tough year in its time, the firm tannins needing decades to come into balance. The tannins have. There are certainly none of the ethereal perfumes or feminine touches, but more a matriarchal stance, and possibly masculine. If I had to pick a commune, we all said a cross between Pauillac and Graves. Whatever. At 36 years old it was on its plateau. It would stay on it for another 36 years easily. This is the sort of wine that makes you think of the young ones still with development ahead of it in those massive retrospective vertical tastings going back to the 1800s. In the final analysis, lacking the nuance and layers to be a great wine, but remarkable for its true claret character, robustness and longevity in the modern appreciation of that quality. This was before the Mentzelopoulos family ownership, and in times of a rather dull, forced ownership.

As a first growth it had all the in-built quality criteria and factors. terroir and pedigree. These were put on the line by the less-inspired management and a serious, challenging backward vintage came into play upon opening, thankfully. It's inherent personality was waiting all the time. Only $62.37 when I bought it 29 years ago.

Take a Step Back

2011-02-27T11:56:00.000-08:00

Often, one enjoys life better if you take a step back and relax, seeing a bigger picture. And so too with wine, as it is all to easy to be over analytical and over critical of something design to give pleasure. First impressions can prevent you giving things a chance...
A new 2010 Sileni Estates 'The Priestess' Hawke's Bay Pinot Gris seemed a little too delicate on initial impressions, but with air time and some warming up from fridge-cold, the subtle flavours of fruit and barrel-ferment came out. It just needed patience and an open attitude on our part.
Then a reductive 2009 Spade Oak Reserve Gisborne Viognier, sealed in screw-cap rather than the usual Vino-Lok. It just seemed ugly and hard. I didn't want to sip it. But with breathing and warming up, as well as some nice cheeses and nibbles that SWMBO put on the table, the wine showed its exotic personality, weight and oily texture. A gorgeous drop indeed.
Final sip on this occasion was a 1999 Ata Rangi 'Arapoff' Syrah in half-bottle. Drawing the cork, the horsey smells signalled red-alert - Brettanomyces! The colour was browning, the nose dense with stale horses. We were a little worried what our JanSki our guest would think. But pouring it out, the spices, warm brown earth and pepper featured above the brett. The palate sweet, and with good acid. Fine tannins, just hinting at dryness. We caught this in time. And a great easy drop with the food again. Glad to have taken a step back anf drink and enjoy these wines, seeing what they really were.

Gathering

2011-02-21T09:44:00.000-08:00

When you gather around three dozen people together, it's not easy making a bottle get around everyone, so SWMBO and I bring a 1.5 Litre magnum each. Our contributions seemed to garner a bit of interest. The 2007 Ch. Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc Pessac-Leognan made a few realise that spicy oak and exotic herbal, gooseberry fruit can worth together. Bordeaux is one of those places where it can come into harmony and interest, and this bottle had a subtle nature, yet real depth and concentration in a soft way. The 2006 Ridge 'Lytton Springs' was plummy, blueberry, with jam and compote, but in a classy expression. The Zinfandel variety isn't one for classical elegance, but Ridge could be a contender for doing it that way. Warm, soft tannins and a youthfulness all made it a 'nice' drink.

Lots of 750 ml bottles were brought to the gathering, and we only got to see a few of them. The 2003 Jaboulet Saint-Peray 'Sauvageres' was a bit stolid in a pure way. This was, after all Marsanne from a hot region in a hot and dry year. This taken on board, it was a miracle that it was still young and 'tight'. The other Rhone was an oldie. 1995 Delas Hermitage 'Tourette'. A clunky wine full of bottle-stunk black red fruits. However, this began to show some of its Syrah earth, game and fruit in the glass. Plenty of structure around it all still, in a rounded way.

An interesting pair were the 1993 Wynns 'Black Label' and 1993 'John Riddoch' Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignons. The first still dark coloured, a little herbaceous, plenty acidic, and tannins resolving. The latter marked by a truck load of new wood, and much more extract. But the hard acid making its mark.

An even better twosome was the traditional Burgundy vs Burgundy comparison. The 2002 J.F. Mugnier Bonnes Mares very pale, with a mass of powdery tannin and restrained forest-floor and red-dark fruits somewhere in it. For a great year, this was all locked up and not showing any sweetness. However, we've learned that Mugnier had been working on the vineyard, becoming happy with it from 2005. More attractive was the 2002 Ch. Pichon Baron. Darker, of course, deeper, concentrated, but now mellowed out. Cassis and cedar, with firm grip. Now showing how light 2002 was. Why do we always go for the so-called 'best years', when these lighter years are really delish?

A couple of modern Aussies passed our way. A 2005 Briarose Margaret River Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. Dark fruited, plenty of life, though some brett hinted. Not so good was a 2005 Lowe Reserve Shiraz from the Mudgee. Fruit gone west, and a muddled, muddy wine. We were told it was organic/biodynamic, but the wine has to be good.....to go further!

We had a mini-gathering in the Chairman's room later with the Show Queen and Lady Chairman. A delightful 2002 Mumm Vintage Champagne flowed, teased and refreshed us while the conversation ranged. Finishing the big day with a 2005 Nicolas Potel Pommard 'Vignots', full and rounded with dark fruits, no inkiness, tar or chocolate. Just pure fruit. It was fabulous how accessible this was too, considering the commune and vintage provenance.

Heritage

2011-02-21T09:01:00.000-08:00

The Library Man showed two pages from rare New Zealand's wine history books. Two and a half dozen prominent wine people were there to be reminded of how the country made its tentative steps towards modern winegrowing and winemaking. I considered myself honoured and treated.
Firstly, a 1980 Matawhero Gisborne Chardonnay. Golden, of course, with ripe, plump and juicy apricotty characters, still good acidity and remarkably drinkable. The technocrats would have decried it in today's perspectives, but this was made over three decades ago. Eminently better now than how the Cooks Chardonnays from 1982 to 1985 that were tasted a few weeks ago. Those wines had lost their fruit and just oak remained.
The Library Man went on to show one of Tom McDonald's reds, a McWilliams Cabernet Sauvignon. But an extra vintage turned up. The 1973 McWilliams Cabernet Sauvignon was low from ullage. It was pale mahogany red in colour and somewhat tainted with mould from cork and microbes, but still with cedar and acidity, with the faintest structural grip. It was alive but not really pleasant. But it was a good lead-in to the 1966 McWilliams Cabernet Sauvignon. The one following the magnificent 1965. The 1966 was darker and deeper. Obviously the greater colour and extract gave greater survivability with true evolved fruit characters, definably currants gone down the cedar and mushroom hinted past-fully developed state. But in no way negative. Still fresh with acid and sweet with fruit. A decent core from where the tannin structure used to be. A taste of our heritage.

Significant Celebrations

2011-02-17T11:15:00.000-08:00

In the course of one day SWMBO and I caught up with a number of friends, each celebrating our common interests and happenings.
The Jelly Bean Girl was looking better than ever, enjoying here freedom. Over a spectacular, subtle, and superbly flavoured Vietnamese luncheon, the 2010 Johanneshof Marlborough Gewurztraminer did its job. A powerful, almost spirit number, the decadent spiciness and slightly sweeter nature harmonised with and highlighted components of all the dishes.
We then met up with the Show Queen, discussing future plans in the wine arena. She put on a NV Daniel Le Brun Methode. Big, gutsy, very Pinot Noir and some of those old-fashioned aldehydes apparent. This bottle with traces of oxidation actually adding complexity, but also a touch of TCA which detracted.
The main event was with the Scribe Man and the Acute Analyst, who incidentally were celebrating a decade anniversary. The stops were pulled out. The starter was a 2002 Veuve Clicquot Champagne, super-refined and sheer class. The textures were silken, the fruit and autolysis integrated, yet with great nuance, and still so youthful on top of it. Then onto a just maturing 2002 Fevre Chablis Vaudesir Grand Cru. The weight and depth, plus concentration made it a Puligny-Montrachet look-alike. Flinty and minerally for sure, with nuts and lees and some oak barely detectable. The main course casserole was matched to a 1998 Redmetal ‘Basket Press’ Merlot/Franc, from magnum. An anniversary pressie a decade ago. Dark, vibrantly sweet-fruited, very ripe red and black plums with earth cake and tobacco, all on a firmly structured wine. No trace of the animal and horses that have plagued some wines of this ‘Californian’ vintage. A star wine indeed. Then finishing with a 2004 Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes. Elegant, beautifully harmonised with waxy fruit, marmalade and honey, soft, clear-cut. Gorgeous. We love these 2004s for their elegance, pretty much like the celebrating couple. That’s why they are our significant friends.

Sharp End

2011-02-13T02:05:00.000-08:00

We had been trying hard to catch up with The Barbed One and Astute Andy, and we finally managed it after weeks of being on different planets. They had prepared a pretty sharp Spanish themed dinner and had a couple of Spanish wines to go with it.
The 2008 Valminor Rias Baixas Albarino was more golden than expected and all thought of oxidation appeared. But on tasting, it was not the case. While it did not have the tight and minerally crispness expected, it did have body, breadth and weight. Something these wines strive to achieve a little of. Maybe a bit of botrytis took that sharp edge away?
The Lustau 'Almacenista' Manzanilla Amontillado 'Jurado' 1/21was a sensational, complex wine. Mahogany colour, masses of nutty, aldehyde flavour with the mandatory saltiness, and an incredibly complex rancio finish. Truly great, overwhelming even the chorizo sausage rolls.
Paella was on the menu next, and it was gloriously filling and seafoody, with prawns featuring. We had an oldie, not necessarily to match the food. 1988 Wynns 'John Riddoch' Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. Amazingly youthful, with purple red colour and a clear-cut varietal blackcurrant nose and flavour. Only hints of secondaries appearing, the wine still firm, tannic, fresh and sharp from the acidity. This would go another 15-20 years. But it was a great vintage.
Our summer fruits and custard flan came out the same time as the 2009 Spade Oak Noble Viognier. Unctuous apricots, citrus fruits, honey and again, something ultra decadent to behold.
Such sharp food and wine, right to the finish.

History Won't Repeat

2011-01-30T01:35:00.000-08:00

This was a case of History that will Never Repeat. Cooks Wine Co. was the darling of the new age of wine in Kiwiland. This 'corporate' winemaker had a space-age winery at, of all places, Te Kauwhata, south of Auckland. The first releases buzzed the industry and the keen wine drinker with odd and new varietals, and in 1980 released a stunningly different, ground-breaking oak-aged Chardonnay using voluptuous fruit from Gisborne. The wine went on a gold and trophy winning spree, and came to rival the McWilliams version of that grape.

I drank the last of the 1980 long ago, watching a case develop over the years. Of course, we've all moved on to tighter fruit, barrel-ferment, whole bunch press, wild yeasts, MLF and lees. But at least oak aging was a step in the right direction.
This little vertical was thus a piece of history, that will never be repeated. Well, Cooks is long gone - swallowed up by Corbans, which in turn was acquired by Montana, whch was taken by Allied Domecq, which was bought by Pernod Ricard. What next?

The 1982 Cooks Premium Varietal Chardonnay came from Gisborne fruit too. 12.1 alc, and cost $12.88. Now a little grubby, but with cool, melon notes and savoury oak dominating. Identifiably Chardonnay. So too was the 1983. This went gold at the 1983 National Wine Competition. Fruit dried out, leaving sweet, coconutty, new American oak. Almost modern and fresh in an old-fashioned way. This reflected the warmer vintage at 13.5% alc. The 1984 took gold at the 1984 NWC. Fruit all gone dry and toasty, more like an aged Riesling, but sweetened by oak too. High acid and rather sour. Reflecting the cool vintage. Then a change of tack with the 1985 Cooks 'Private Bin' Hawke's Bay Chardonnay. Obviously looking for elegance and a finer fruit source. But that more delicate fruit could not have handled the US oak as well. Hotter year too. Oxidised, VA lift and barley sugar. Botrytis? It went gold at the 1986 Easter Wine Show. Surprisingly, as the wines got younger, they appeared more golden.

What of the best Kiwi Chardonnays made now? Will they last over 25 years like these? This sort of history won't be repeated for sure!

High Drama

2011-01-20T15:48:00.000-08:00

Our night with the Drama Queen, the Little Aussie Battler and the Drama Queen Mum was an excellent one. The LAB had been to deepest Europe and brought back some wines to share over a dinner she wanted to cook.
First was a 2007 Hirsch Riesling 'Gaisberg' from Zobling, Kamptal. An interestingly different wine from most of the Austrian Rieslings we've seen, in that it was softly sweet, honied and almost unctuous, rather than intensely dry, steely and lime-minerally and searing. The subtle influence of botrytis may have added to its enjoyment. Then a 2009 Hirsch Gruner Veltliner 'Heiligenstein' from Kammern, classically dry, subtle herby, with peppery overtones. This is what I see as typical. The Battler reckons GVs can last well, and she saw this as capable of doing just that.
With our lamb shanks and mash (yummmmy!), was a 2002 Quartz Reef Pinot Noir. These 2002 Central Otago Pinots have polarised people. Some love the big ripeness and structure. Others say they are not varietal and lack florals, thinking they will disintegrate. We were in the former camp. Savoury and secondary flavour, along with cooked strawberry and red berry flavours. Big in mouthfeel, but tannins resolving. A really good food wine too. It'll keep well for a few more years yet...
Then with the dessert, two sweeties. First a 2004 Ch. Coutet Barsac. More golden than other 2004s we've seen. Wonderfully soft and subtle, with layers and waves of aroma and flavour developing. Lanolin, barley sugar, caramel and hokey-pokey, all on a full, but gentle palate. Just lacking the Coutet 'cut' that marks this wine. Drink it now! Then a 2003 Neustifter Niederosterreich Welschriesling Eiswein from NE Austria. Golden, with a dramatic, high VA level nose. But on palate big and sweet in the liqueur style. Essence of apricots, marmalade and honey. Again, not the hard acid hit expected as in many German and Canadian examples. A touch of the savoury yellow fruits showed its developing complexity. A dramatic high note to finish a great evening on!

Yin and Yang

2011-01-04T12:09:00.000-08:00

All in the world seems to fit into place sometimes. There we were at dinner with the Orange Couple, and it all seemed complementary and complete. We had a dazzling array of food morsels, all good and very varied, spanning all types of cuisines. The wines too were different, but similar too, and they all had their position into the scheme of things.
Firstly a 2004 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir, showing typical dried herb character of the cool vintage. Nevertheless, it was sweet and succulent with a depth behind it. The darker flavours indicated a ripeness and push that other people didn't achieve in that year. It harked back to the 2002 Dry River shared with Gordy and Perfect P a few days ago, and made a positive impression as well. This was followed by the Merlot predominant 2000 Te Awa 'Boundary' Red from Hawke's Bay. Troubled by brettanomyces, but still dark and vibrant with quality fruit that was there, just struggling to show. A little hard, dry and four-square. Drinkable and drink now, if you don't mind the animal notes, or quite good, if you see gamey elements as positive.
The oldies were an interesting pair. They followed on from the Te Awa theme, both being Merlot dominant too. Right bank, one each from the two major appellations. The 1982 Clos des Jacobins St Emilion, owned by Cordier at the time. Lightish and coolish with green tobacco flavours, noticeable acidity, hints of savoury animals, still with tannin bite. A little unclean really, and passable, though not really enjoyable. Then the treat of the day, a 1978 Clos Rene Pomerol. Label-less after the ravages of damp storage, but vintage confirmed by the cork on extraction. Still dark red, Ripe plump, black fruits with classical tertiary overtones. The sweetness of fruit still there, excellent freshness and acidity, and fine, mellow tannins. The bottle did not last long. A minor wine in the hierarchy, but here, with 30+ years, it stood up well. All wines have their time of day.

Staying Youthful

2011-01-03T10:43:00.000-08:00

While fully mature wines provide great and satisfying drinking and the realisation of potential fulfilled, sometimes wines that are young and yet to peak can give you a sense of joy in that they have much to show and the sense of anticipation is exciting.
Dinner with the King Hitters and Bubbly Ones saw three such wines. A 2008 Amisfield Dry Riesling was almost austerely dry, but the weight and fruit extract was remarkable. Minerals and limes just waiting to ge unleashed, and with it toast with honey, no doubt. It would need 2-3 years to get there though. Even more sensational was the 2007 Te Mata 'Elston' Chardonnay. Lively with lots of citrussy flavours and beautifully fresh and invigourating acidity. Concentrated fruit tinged with the right amount of oak. Delicious now, but you know it will be better in 2-4 years plus. Then a 2004 Sacred Hill 'Brokenstone' Merlot. Dense and packed with dark fruits enriched with raspberry cordial nuances, but framed within a firm, powerful and gripping structure. There was the faintest disturbance of reduction in earlier days, but that's all part of the layers of deep, ripe brooding flavours. A 10 year job at least.
Among the winemaking fraternity, wines that stay young are seen as good ones. A bit like people, really...

White Out

2011-01-02T10:42:00.000-08:00

Our friendship with the B&Bs grows, and this time it was a meal with us. They dropped off a few bottles of oldies that were in need of broaching, and that proved to be the case.
The most versatile and in that sense best wine of the night was the 2005 John Forrest Collection 'The White', an anonymous mix of white varieties that surely has Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay and a few others. Chameleon character in that it changed continuously, from old Savvie (not nice), to limes and toast (very nice), well-textured (very good), to refreshingly crisp (positive). It went well with all the food.
Then two old Rieslings. Of all the whites, this can last well. But the 1998 Forrest Marlborough Riesling did not make it. Deep golden, fully oxidised. Not worth putting in the mouth. That was a very hot year, and quick ripening doesn't seem to work. The 1999 Forrest Marlborough Riesling was better, as it had honey, limes, toast on a softly sweet palate. But as it became exposed to air longer, the oxidation grew. For commercial white wines, they surprised.
Then the white influenced 2005 Yering Station 'Reserve' Shiraz/Viognier. A little dumb at first, then unfolding its true worth. Spices and black pepper on a somewhat forced palate. But all the time unwinding and relaxing with breathing. Notes of its Aussie heritage - a touch of eucalypt - detectable. In the end, a very good wine indeed that would be a comfortable slot-in with the Shiraz/Viognier category if looking at a range of international wines, without giving anything away on the origin front. Very elegant it was. Amazing what a bit of white can add to the mix.

Trade Off

2011-01-01T18:03:00.000-08:00

What do you do when hospitality far exceeds any expectation? Well, that's what we experienced from Gordy and Perfect P. The least we could do as a trade off was to open a couple of interesting clarets, as that's what is important to Gordy especially.
It was back to 1983, with Pauillac vs St Julien. A Ch. Pontet Canet vs Ducru Beaucaillou, not exactly equals, but there you have it. The Pontet-Canet was full, up-front, still plummy and dark fruited, but obviously with savoury development characters of game. It looked to lack finesse and liveliness of acidity. The Ducru Beaucaillou very elegant and refined, as it always is. Lovely cool notes of class, with cedar and lead pencils Excellent freshness and acidity, with very fine-grained structure. You could choose one or the other depending on what you wanted. A trade-off really.
With air time, the Pontet-Canet got more vigorous and looked more youthful. The Ducru Beaucaillou got cooler and more mature. Strange how that happens. And we all marvelled at how clean they both were. No brettanomyces!

Aspiring

2011-01-01T12:52:00.000-08:00

The New Year is a time for resolutions and aspirations. What a busy day it has been with lots of talking, laughing, eating, drinking and of course some exercise to work it all off. The wines tasted today were wines of aspiration too. Winemakers wanting to move forward and better themselves as well as offering better for the wine drinker. It was appropriate to drink such wines...

A 2008 Yalumba 'Virgiliuis' Viognier is the best expression of the variety for the people who have worked with it the longest in Australia. More aromatic and refined than ever, and also more elegant too. For those in the know, the wine is more complex in nuances than ever. This bottle a touch reduced on nose, but rich and oily textured with excitingly pure, but exotic fruit. Only 13.5% alc. Also in the same league or even higher in aspiration was a 2005 Heymann-Lowenstein Winningen Uhlen 'R' 'Roth Lay'. One of the great dry Mosel Riesling producers. 12.5% alc., with an intriguing depth, line and power. The acidity needing a richer note that maybe I'd see sweetness contributing something. Is dry Mosel Riesling an impossible ask? Gordy would like to think not. Seemingly premature on first taste, this came into itself with air time. So maybe the intention of style is worthwhile?

Then the 'burgundy' pairing. I previously liked the 2008 Fevre Chablis 1er Cru 'Vaulorent in a previous tasting. It had the pizzaz and acidity of 2008 and 1er Cru. But italso had the depth of fruit and oaking of a Grand Cru. It delivered everything on this opening too. Gordy and Perfect P, as well as SWMBO concurred. What a good thing to push the limits of 1er Cru in Chablis! Then onto a 2002 Dry River Pinot Noir. Obviously Pinot Noir with rich red fruits. Full on palate, with tannin structure underneath. On breathing, a little more of the cooler 2002 vintage came through. Gordy not too impressed with the way it went, but I was happier about it. The Dry River people seem to get a lot of flak for what they do. 'Tall Poppy Syndrome' for sure, but for me, they are admirable for going harder, further and hopefully better.

Arriving with the New

2010-12-31T10:26:00.000-08:00

Seeing the New Year in with Gordy and Perfect P was a rather civilised affair; no outrageous antics, thank goodness, as the day has been action-packed with adventurous exercise and fun (?) household type work. Gordy and Perfect P had travelled some distance after finishing work, so it really was ideal.

SWMBO & I thought we might begin proceedings with a 2005 Paulinshof Bruneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese on our own. A new producer for both of us, but with the Fritz Haag there doing great things there it was worth a try. Unfortunately this bottle was oxidised, so we thought it best if we waited til the arrival of our guests for thew new bottles. So we sipped on a rather delicious 2007 Mt Edward Riesling, full-bodied, off-dryish, a touch of secondary toast, but with a long way to go.

Then they arrived. 1996 Duval-Leroy Champagne was golden, scarily so, as it too looked oxidised. But instead it was oxidative, and rather heavily so. Rather gutsy and almost brutally so, and not the elegance of Chardonnay-influence I expected. Forward too, as the 1996s are reported to be. Then the most exciting new wine I'd seen in a while. 2009 FX Pichler 'Loibner Berg' Gruner Veltliner 'Smargd' was more like a gentle Gewurztraminer with refined unctuous textures and beautiful rose-petal spices. Gordy served it blind, and we all went Gewurz.... Amazing stuff! To see how good it was, out came a 2001 Rolly Gassmann Gewurztraminer 'Brandhurst' VT. This definitely was Gewurz with sugar and a touch of botrytis, all superbly melded together. Even more unctuous, and drinking on a plateau now. Lots of florals, honey and ginger here. This bottling was new to us, though Rolly Gassmann is well-known.

To see the New Year arrive, we finished off a wee bottle of Esk Valley Liqueur Muscat. 20 years in the making, and now showing the expression and complexity desired. Gorgeously lush with ripe/baked fruits and rancio-barrel complexity. Excellent cutting spirit. The acidity is high. This has been it's bugbear in the earlier showings, but it wall worked. And on top of it, it was packaged par-excellence in a clear 375 ml flute, capped with red wax and carrying a Jane Gray label. This rare wine has arrived, and with the arrival of 2011!

Following On

2010-12-29T02:19:00.000-08:00

The impetus had been gathering for a gathering. One had a devastating loss just a short while ago, and the many friends and acquaintances happened to realise that today was a time that we could all meet, eat, drink and see light in our lives, following on from tougher times. And even though there were a few of us who had not met properly before, in true fashion, there were only one or two degrees of separation...

The wines that turned up were many and varied, but I worked my way through the following. Firstly whites, a 2007 S.A. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, deliciously sweet and minerally, loved by all there, but resting on sugar in the final analysis. Then came a 2009 Starborough Marlborough Pinot Gris, subtly exotic, and easy to miss, following on from the Mosel wine. And a surprisingly structured and lolly-fruited 2009 Vynfields Pinot Rose. Still quite thirst-quenching, though a year after the latest release.

A couple of new reds followed on. A 2004 Conde de Valdemar Rioja Reserva, fresh, berried, up-front and thoroughly modern. Most people at the gathering loved it. To me, it started well, but did not finish. Nothing wrong with it, but just not the satisfaction the traditional Rioja can provide. Next was a 2005 Sacred Hill 'Brokenstone' Merlot. Just starting to see some game notes. Brett? I don't know or think so, though SWMBO believed it there. But sweet and clean, with no drying out. Just all there in great proportion, juiciness and ripeness. A star for me.

The serious reds followed on. History for many of us. 1983 Coopers Creek Cabernet Sauvignon. Grunty, herbaceous and grubby. Microbiological spoilage, or maybe rodent spoilage? The size of the wine was a residue of how this might have been impressive two decades plus ago. Then a 1984 Abel & Co Cabernet Sauvignon. Leafy and stalky, but with fruit sweetness and a silky texture. Drinkable really. Final in this triple trio treat was a 1985 Cooks Private Bin Cabernet Sauvignon. Light, ripe, but insubstantial. Easy to drink a not-much-there wine. But is that really pleasant? Well, this was not unpleasant.

Then The Angel brought out her specially saved Villa Maria Reserve Noble Riesling 1998. Golden, caramelised barley-sugar with a touch of oxidation. Rich, but acidic. Not ugly, but a former shadow of the beauty it once had. Some residue of grace was detectable. It would have been delectable a decade ago. There was nothing to follow on, but then again, there was no need.

Come Right

2010-12-29T02:02:00.000-08:00

It's interesting how one's perspective can change on a wine with time. More often than not, for the better, when emotions and strong ideas have settled down. The holistic viewpoint is seen to be the best, and focussing on parts and aspects can be negative.

The 2005 Man O' War 'Valhalla' Chardonnay was all out of sorts on release. Ungainly and four-square. The oak was too prominent. But then just opened now, it was all together and complete. A bit of an old-fashioned, solid number, but actually really satisfying. Sure it was solid and stolid, and too oaky, but it worked, having come right!

Larry McKenna will admit in a weak moment that his 2006 Escarpment 'Hinemoa' LH Riesling is not as good as he would have liked. Rain at end of harvest diluted the wine in his opinion. He might even be a little embarrassed if it was served on the dinner table if he was there. But I've always liked it. It had elegance and all the right flavours. Lightness of feet. But on opening now, it has just put on the little bit more to tip it over the edge of elegance into decadence. If it wasn't right before, it has come right now...

A Decade

2010-12-27T01:39:00.000-08:00

A couple of wines at around a decade of age showed how good or bad wines can develop, after a decade, which can be a bit of a magical number to do this sort of thing. Of course, we had it with Jube's special lamb dish, to allow the wines show their best.

A 2001 Daniel Schuster 'Selection - Omihi Vineyard' Pinot Noir was a bit of a stunner. Danny, whose Canterbury operation has now folded, was erratic with his output. Sometimes the wines were disappointing, other times brilliant. A bit like burgundy really. This 2001 was special from the start. An now, a decade down the track, it still is. Garnet hues to colour, this was distinctly secondary with tertiary notes too. Fungal, game and savouries. But ultra-smooth and velvety, yet with substance and fruit extract. New Zealand Pinot Noir can age...

To go with the lamb also was a 2000 Crossroads 'Talisman', the enigmatic creation of Malcolm Reeves. The varietal mix has never been made public, but no doubt there was Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, with Syrah, Malbec and two others, possibly including the likes of Tannat? The 2008 is gorgeous. But this 2000 was plagued by brett. Smelled like concentrated sweaty horses, the palate was all dried up. It was black as the Ace of Spades and dense as pitch, but the fruit and sweetness had gone. If only it was clean, it would have been a marvel.

Gestalt Drinking

2010-12-25T02:30:00.001-08:00

The day's activities of relaxing and socialising meant a number of wines were opened, tasted or consumed. With all of the bottles opened, the psychological principle of gestalt came to mind. 'Sum of parts' and 'the whole' were phrases that were appropriate.
Two half bottles of NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne were opened. They've been sitting in the cellar a couple of years. Usually they get consumed quickly, as the 375 ml size is ideal for spontaneous opening. As we all know, 1.5 Litre magnums are ideal for keeping any length of time. These two were excellent. Quite dry and surprisingly so, but with the core of complex toastiness that comes from time on cork. They would be appreciated by those with 'English' tastes, which included SWMBO and me on this occasion. Here two half bottles gave better than one whole.

Then a stunning 2010 Saint Clair 'Wairau Reserve' Sauvignon Blanc. The different 'Pioneer Block' wines are all the constituent bits, it seems. The 'Wairau Reserve' one could imagine being the best bits put together. Sometimes that could be the case, other times it is the best performing block wine. We don't know. Whatever the case, this was incredibly refined, yet had the benchmark pungent passionfruit aromas and depth. With sheer class. You normally don't say this about wines from this variety.

We moved onto a 2008 Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett. This bottle a little out of sorts - or was it us? We usually drink Erni's wines in the context of his whole range. On its own, it was difficult to get the full perspective. I love the way this vineyard delivers exotic and ethereal florals. Here it was limes and minerals in a staid fashion. We opened this because of the Brazillette's new man of German origin being here.

With the meal, we paired 2006 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir with the single vineyard 2006 Ata Rangi 'McCrone Vineyard' Pinot Noir. The former made up of a blend of the best fruit from all the vineyards, the latter a special bottling of one special site. 2006 was a brilliant year in the region and it showed with both wines. Youthful, fresh, tight, vibrant and with tension. The healthy, ripe fruit was startling. The richness and depth of interest in fruit expression with textured palate weight made them international standard. The 'regular' wine was quite complete. Accessible now, with ultimate balance. It will keep a decade yet. The 'McCrone' still raw and primary. The componentry was in your face. Dark fruit depth, acidity, tannin structure and even the alcohol. Needing knitting together. Quite singular. It will come together, and maybe live 15 years easily. But tonight harmony and balance, completeness and togetherness won the day - or should I say night.

Consistency

2010-12-19T12:17:00.000-08:00

It's wonderful how consistency is so reassuring. Our neighbours, the Triple Irish Connection, have always been excellent people to have next-door. They are friendly and helpful, and never intrusive. They are always fun, and if the need arises, alway dependable. Wines endear us with their consistent behaviour, and sharing a few bottles wine with the neighbours brought this point home.
We started with a few newbie whites. In the short history these have been around, they have been dependable. A 2010 Framingham Marlborough Sauv Blanc showed how Dr Andrew H. has stepped up with this variety. It's even better than the acclaimed 2009 vintage, richer, but more vibrant. Then a 2010 Starborough Marlborough Pinot Gris. Second release is as good as the first. Penetrating aromatics and a sleekness made this a goodie. Thirdly a 2009 Vynfields Martinborough Dry Riesling. It wasn't dry, but who cares when it is full of fruit breadth and depth, whilst retaining elegance. This will live 6-8 years plus. It follows a long line of good Rieslings from this excellent producer.
A 2009 Mt Beautiful Cheviot Pinot Noir set the scene with the reds. It's as good as the 2007 inaugural release and better than the early-maturing 2008. Good soft red fruits with racy acids. And then to a 2006 Man o' War Waiheke Island Merlot/Cab. In Magnum. Good job it was, 'cos it was a cracker. Nice dark berry and plum fruits spiced up with a bit of new oak. I hear this label is consistently on the up. We left about half of the bottle for the Triple Irish Connection to enjoy the next day.
On to the ridiculous. Another vertical tasting of Montana Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon. Oh dear? But surprisingly interesting, as with last month's effort, only better. The way they display the vintage character is consistent with their simplistic varietal nature allowing it come through. Most experimental wines do so, to minimise winemaker signature. 1982 was acid and highly seasoned with oak. It had depth and weight, but the relative unripeness still came through. And out goes my assertion about winemaker input. I suppose wineries must buy new oak at sometime, and I'm sure this is when Montana did it. 1983 was riper, and very even in the way it came across on nose and palate. Lighter, plainish, but no acid sting. 1984 had the greens come through on the nose. We all expected an acid attack on palate, but no, it was a non-event and non-entity. This was the birth year of one of the Irish Triple Connection, but he's no non-event, to be sure! 1985 had a sulphidic nose, but everything else about it was decent. If you held your breath, it was a good drink. Amazingly, none of these were dying, and happily alive to show what they had, and how far we have gone in a quarter of a century. Interestingly, they had price stickers of $10.95 on them. Not cheap in those days.
We had to finish on a super-star. 1997 Penfolds Grange. The most consistently great red wine of the southern hemisphere. It was a treat. Plump, deep, ripe and youthful. Still tight, this was an infant with 20-30 years ahead of it easily. Maybe not the intense finesse and nuance of 1996 or 1998, but possibly more enjoyable now. Grange consistently delivers, as do our excellent neighbours.

Familial Farce

2010-11-28T00:24:00.000-08:00

The weekend has been a long one full of family celebrations. The Nippy-Nephew was marrying the Lovely Lisa, and there was plenty of family catch-ups, fun and mirth. Lots of good wines were supped on, of course, but they were not the focus. Rather, it was the nuptials.
As a bit of a joke, we found some old wines that were the birth year of the newly married couple, and some of their friends. They were opened in the spirit of fun, and since the family are all reasonably wine proficient, the exercise was a farce.
It was a vertical line-up of Montana Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon. A farce in itself, and the wines of a family that represented a failed experiment. We all now know that unless Cabernet Sauvignon is grown in the most favourable of sites there, it is doomed to fail. The 1978 was dark, browned and somewhat grubby. There was a modicum of ripeness, but not sufficient to make it a decent drink, even though the body and texture was OK. Just a touch of acidity poked out. It was a hot year, and it had the potential to be positive. Then the 1979, light and fading mahogany colour, weedy and sappy, with aged, savoury flavours, quite thin and tart. The acidity was excessive. A lesser year, and it showed. Mildly preferable was the 1980. At the time, a better vintage, but we now can see it was only marginally so. Pepper and mint, with stalks and sap. A little, little more textured and bodied. But again the acidity was searing. 1981 was an average vintage, but this was the best of a baddish bunch. A little more colour and depth. Some fruit noticeable. Coolish Cabernet and bottle age. Actually clean, too. A liitle body and structure. I could drink it, but wouldn't.
The young family members knew not to drink these too. We have moved on a long way since then. 30 years ago, these wine were state-of-art commercial. Oh well.....

Another Go

2010-11-22T01:44:00.000-08:00

The party continued the next night. We had another go. The encore never quite lives up to the main production, but it was nevertheless a pleasant event.
A 2008 Terrace Edge Waipara Riesling had a touch of toast to the limes, and a wonderful precision to the palate. It could last another 5 years, but not this bottle. Drinking well now too was the 2004 Craggy Range 'Les Beaux Cailloux' Hawke's Bay Chardonnay. Still steely-fresh, but ripe, intense, tight, with just the right amount of development. I reckon it could last another 4-5 no problem. I missed out on the 2009 Mt Difficulty Pinot Gris, but SWMBO said it was classical in its fruit and very Central Otago with its minerally acidity.
The star of the night was the 1999 Louis Jadot Musigny, brought along by The Real Mr Parker. We share a bottle a couple of months ago, and he couldn't help letting us have another go at it. Well, what a cracker! Big structure from the Louis Jadot house combined with floral elegance and intensity. A working mix of meatiness, undergrowth, ethereal fruitiness and a lithe feel overall, despite the size and projection.
Burgundy beats Bordeaux is the common finding nowadays, 'cos that's what we prefer. It was the case again this night. The 1982 Ch. Siran Margaux was bretty to the point of disgust. It was a big wine in its time, but it was all dried out and tannic now. Also big in its youth was the 1981 Ch. Les Ormes de Pez St Estephe. The greenness of the 1981 vintage now shows clearly. But it was sweet and fresh with acid, fruit liveliness and tannins to burn. Coolness can be a preservative.....
I missed the 1998 Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz. SWMBO said it had TCA tainting it, but the A-Prentice reckoned it was drinkable. We all concured SWMBO has a very keen and discriminating palate.

All Lined Up

2010-11-22T00:41:00.000-08:00

It was party mode! The A-Prentices were plenty practiced at entertaining and they had a fabulous evening lined up. All the guests needed to do was contribute in food, wine, entertainment and good company. And so it was. There is a little tradition where all the bottles tasted and consumed are lined up, and often it is an impressive if not awesome sight. Of course, no-one went over the top. We all had little tastes, and over the length of an afternoon and evening, with hearty and substantial food, it was a very civilised affair.
The sparklings served were wide ranging in style. A 2010 Saint Clair 'Vicars Choice' Marlborough Sauv Blanc Bubbles was a delight. Very typical of what this company specialises in, but toned down in flavour, but still overt and refreshing. Much more serious was a 2006 Deutz Marlborough Cuvee Blanc de Blanc. Impressive autolysis now, and finesse with it. This has gotten better and better. Followed by the real thing, a couple of bottles of NV Taittinger 'Brut Reserve', elegant too, but with a textural quality allied to complete palate proportion. Some landed time on cork has always helped 'Tatts'.
Aperitif drinking went with a super selection of cheeses. A pair of trophy winning 2010 Sauv Blancs set the scene. Both from Saint Clair in Marlborough, their 'Pioneer Block' range. The 'Block 3 - 43 Degrees' was punchy, up-front and powerful with steel and pungency, the 'Block 21 - Bell Block' more restrained but with an impressive sumptuous richness and mouthfeel. I voted for the latter, but most voted for the former. I didn't get to try the 2009 Boulders Martinborough 'Prosecco Style' Riesling at 9% alc, but I have seen it before, and it was very pleasing at the time, quite gentle, attractively sweetish and true to vine. Two rose wines came out too. The 2009 Instinct Hawke's Bay Merlot Rose was firm, slightly tight and austere, but very workable. I found the 2010 Framingham 'F-Series' Montepulciano Rosata more serious with real red-berry fruitiness, and a substance for added richness. Good stuff indeed.
There's always some Chardonnay, and a 2009 The Pumphouse Martinborough was ripe with clear grapefruity-oaky aromas and flavours that made it a hit. A big flop was the 2002 Sileni 'Estates' Hawke's Bay Chardonnay in a 1.5 Litre magnum. Oxidation on nose and palate, whilst still fresh and acidic. This didn't make half-way down!
The other whites served during food were mixed up too. A true to style 2010 Heart of Gold Gisborne Gruner Veltliner, peppery and gooseberryish, all so gentle and drinkable. The 2009 Coopers Creek 'SV - Pointer' Marlb. Pinot Gris was off dry, softly sweet and rich, and clean as all Marlborough wines should be. A bit of a star was the 2008 Ostler 'Audrey's' Waitaki Valley Pinot Gris, steely, minerally, yet rich and delish with hints of spice and all things nice. Not so pleasing was a 2008 Grey Sands Tasmanian Pinot Gris. Hot, hard, minerals and earth, without the appealing softness the N.Z. wines had At 14.5%, it was pushing it.
A little line-up of Forrest 'Gibson Creek' Marlborough Cabernet/Franc/Merlot was great fun. The 1991 was light, smooth, mellow and imbued with cedar galore. What a top drop. The 1992 was softer still, and lighter, but it too had a mature beauty. Hints of cool fruit didn't bother any of us. The 1993 was definitely showing the effects of Mt Pinatubo. Lighter weight, a bit skinny and cool/sappy. We thought 1994 might be better, and it was riper and more structured, but not a beauty, more a sister not quite grown into herself. Maybe it never will. There was no 1995, and we assumed that the rainy weather precluded its production? 1996 could have been special, but it was spoiled by microbiology for sure. Yet it was very vigorous. The other N.Z. red was a 1997 Redmetal 'Basket Press' Merlot/Franc. Also a bit herby on nose, but what a lovely silky palate, which filled the mouth with lusciousness. It too came in a 1.5 Litre magnum.
Just to keep us honest came a series of international reds. The 2008 Santa Cantabria 'Seleccion' Rioja was full, bright, ripe and fruity, modern and good for it. A bit flat was the 2005 Frsscobaldi 'Nipozzano' Chianti Riserva. All the right things, such as bitter cherries, tannin and acid, but rather non-expressive. A poor bottle?
The Aussie contingent was sensational. Two vintages of Wynns 'Michael' Coonawarra Shiraz, both great years. They were true to vintage on release and now, two decades later, still the same. The 1990 was bold, round, ripe and full in itself. It shouted its presence. The 1991 was subtle, and sneaked up on you, and beguiled with its layers of nuance. Mint and eucalypt in the nicest way. The night ended on a 2006 Seppelt 'Original' Sparkling Shiraz. Not the gem it used to be, those old vines now long gone, but still exactly what it should be, in a straight forward way. Fresh, but plummy, spicy Shiraz with good effervescence to give cut and zest. But satisfying all the time. What a line up.

Unexpected

2010-11-18T00:46:00.000-08:00

A visit by the Aromatic Ace meant a chance to eat out and indulge. The eatery did not perform at our last visit, and it was rather unexpected then.. This time they performed brilliantly, and the meal was as good as it should have been that previous time.
The Aromatic Ace loves Riesling, but his contributions were very different and really unexpected. SWMBO and I had never had anything like these wines. Firstly a 2009 Les Cretes Valle d'Aosta Petite Arvino. 13% alc, but seemingly lighter. A delightful, subtle aromatic, and rather delicate number that was great as an aperitif and match with seafood. Then a 2009 Kuen Hof Sudtirol Eisacktaler Sylvaner, much more substantial at 14.5%. This had weight, presence, a touch of rustic grip, and actually workable with the richer dishes. Who would guess these would be so interesting?
With the red meat dishes, we had the 1982 Ch. Haut-Batailly Pauillac. Our experience with these lower classed growths has not been great lately. Either faded or bretty. Wow, this was unexpectedly stunning. Complex tertiary aromas, but incredibly sweet, lively fleshy and with years ahead. A plump number that just filled the mouth with fruit and open, but proper structure. A treat and wonderful experience!
We finished the evening off with another Bordeaux, a 2004 Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes. Though the odd numbered years are rated better, I'm a fan of the 2004s for their accessibility and typicity. Low VA, rich Semillon, and excellent noble rot, oak and substance. A treat as always. This property is hot. For those who think the best years are best, try the 2004s. Their quality may be unexpected by you, and you'll be surprised.

O for Oarsome

2010-11-06T17:15:00.000-07:00

It was a night for 'O'. She's awesome. She and her 'A-Man' got a number of pals together for a nice meal at a bit of 'nutty' eatery. Nice food, with a mix of styles. And a number of wines that were a little mixed in style too.
We started off with a 2002 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Rose, lovely fruity number, sweeter in fruit and dosage than I thought it should be, or what I remember the style to be. And not quite the autolysis. Very friendly structure, soft and plumpish. Delicious nevertheless. Then a 2008 Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, quite substantial, for what I normally see as an ethereally exotic wine. Also delicious. Both lovely aperitif wines as is expected, but these both were more full than just starter wine status; they'd both be food wines too.
Then it was into two Chablis. Firstly a 2002 Raveneau Chablis 1er 'Montee de Tonnerre'. Tight and super minerally, a touch reduced, but classical and traditional. It was paired with a subtle, modern 2005 Moreau-Naudet Chablis GC 'Valmur'. Less flinty and minerally, but it evolved to show more in glass. A nice pair, too.
Two white burgundies to go with the entrees. starting with a 2004 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er 'Pucelles', classy, refined and another wine that just grew in the glass. It had it all, but if you were critical, it rested on its acidity. This paired with the 2004 Lucien Le Moine Meursault 1er 'Genevrieres', broader and fatter, the same bracing acidity, but showing oxidation, well actually madeirisation. A bad cork? Then our 2001 Craggy Range 'Beaux Cailloux' Chardonnay. Big, clumsy, the others saw oak. We saw reduction. We thought it was over the top. We know recent releases are much more refined. The Craggy Range wines were statement wines at first, and this was their first release.
The refresher white between courses was a 2005 Dagueneau 'Pur Sang' Pouilly-Fume. How did he build so much power with restraint? Great varietal character with boldness and textures, allied to class. A treat, as we know the 'wild man' has now left this mortal coil.
Main course time. The reds were a mixed bag too. Firstly the mandatory burgundy. a 2001 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er 'Goulots'. Tight and skinnyish, a little hard and not quite the sweetness. Nor the game and 'blood and fur' character it might have had. It was a good match with the duck mains, giving cut through the fattiness. We then moved to our 1982 Ch. Boyd-Cantenac Margaux. Still dark, full with game and leather on nose and quite fleshy on palate. No Margaux perfume or class, but surprisingly fruity, despite the brett notes. Good refreshing acidity too. It's not the first time the 1982 Margaux wines have surprised. But essentially a bit gutsy. A step better was the 1996 Ch. Lynch Bages Pauillac. Black colour, black fruits, and complex game nuanced to the flavour. Still sweet and bold, with flesh and structure to boot. This was a baby that could handle another decade.
An in a way, it signified what 'O' and 'A-Man' had going. They were still babes that will develop over time.

Fizzer

2010-11-06T15:33:00.000-07:00

We celebrated Guy Fawkes night in our now-regular way, heading to a great vantage point, Jameski and family connections afforded us the view in comforting surroundings, and we were joined by the Pet Pals, as is becoming the norm.
The two bottles we contributed were possibly promising. But unlike the fireworks provided by the ratepayers, they were slight fizzers rather than explosively exciting. The 2006 Te Mata 'Elston' Chardonnay was properly mature with rich mealy flavours and complex toast notes, but unfortunately somewhat stolid and chunky. Pleasant and more, but just not inspiring. It could have been the bottle? And a 1992 Esk Valley 'Terraces'. A cool year, and it showed in its lighter nature only. Rather delicate, soft, fully developed to mellowness, and really, too even and flattish now. In its favour was no trace of green unripeness. Well-integrated, as it should be. We've had far more disappointing Kiwi wines of this age, so in that context, it was good. It just didn't fire.

Overwhelmed by Over Oldies

2010-10-31T10:25:00.000-07:00

The weekend was one of oldies. Overwhelmingly so, some good, some not so good. The Saturday featured a dinner with The Two Docs at B&B's lovely old home. The two B&B's had amassed a lot of old wines that needed sorting out, but they couldn't see the Forrest for the trees. We helped them out, and a number of these Forrest wines came out for the dinner.

We started with bubbles - 2005 Forrest 'Bubbles for Brigid' Methode. Quite big and bold, with plenty of body and flavour. Not fine and elegant as great bubbles should be, but a most pleasing introduction to the night with good fruit and autolysis, sort of in a 'Bolshi' way. The ex-Doc 'B' created the meal and it was better than the wines, bar the next, the 2005 Forrest Riesling. This was everything aged Riesling should be, off-dry, with limes and toast. Very interesting to follow and drink in the glass. The more you sipped, the drier it seemed. Then you needed another sip to counter the dryness. Very clever. Just what the Doc prescribed! A 1999 Forrest Gewurztraminer was not as successful. Golden coloured, it showed oxidation, but the varietal hair-oil and esters spice came through in an unctuous, oily way. 'Unctuous' has good connotations with wine and not so good with other foods. This time it fitted in with the latter, being sickly-so. The 2000 Forrest Pinot Noir was similarly oxidised, and the decrepit notes merging well with forest-floor and decay, all in a lighter, cooler, old, savoury red fruited way. Still tannic in mouth and drying out. The finale was the 1997 Forrest Botrytised Riesling, again somewhat oxidised. Poor on nose, but better on palate. Caramel and figs on an acidic palate, laced with old apples. These oldies were truly over it. However the food was great and the company too.

Sunday night brought out very old friend Doc Lindy and her man Fly High Si. SWMBO and Doc Lindy had been mates for decades and the conversation was very much on old times. The blokies couldn't get many words in, and we were a little overwhelmed by the nostalgic talk - for a while. Some wines showed very well. A 2008 Mt Edward Riesling was floral, citrus and honey tinged, making a great aperitif. This could develop more quickly than the 2007 we are familiar with - say 4-6 years. Then a 2009 Clearview Reserve Chardonnay. Rich, ripe, vibrant and well-tensioned, this label has been modernised somewhat, without losing its essential ballsy nature. Lovely stuff indeed. Reds started with a 2007 Two Paddocks Pinot Noir. Seemingly light at first, this just grew into itself, to become a fine, firmly structured wine with elegant, but seriously flavoured and constructed wine in a burgundian way. It was popular and went down a treat by going down quickly. This was followed by a 2001 Kingsley Syrah, a Tri-Nations winner. We were told to decant it as it might be reductive. We did, and it worked. Great dark and youthful colour. Intense and concentrated black fruits, savoury nuances, pepper, and perfect. The palate the same, just so sleek and slippery. Great wine. Then finishing with a 2009 Spade Oak Reserve Noble Viognier. This gets better and better each time we try it, richer, more together, nutty notes now, less VA lift, more good unctuousness. Creamy and oily with complex nutty-savoury elements. Quite a star. But it could be overwhelming for some people. However, us oldies had no trouble with it.

The Family Connection

2010-10-23T15:25:00.000-07:00

We finally did it. Got the two sisters to come visit us at the batch. Mags and Jube and partners all enjoy a good talk, laugh and glass of wine. After our first day filled with activity, we settled down to the inevitable vino. Of course, there was lots of talk and laughs, and glasses of wine!
Two wines with bubbles as their connection were opened. Firstly a NV Cloudy Bay 'Pelorus' Methode, this bottle solid and ungainly, not the usual class and finesse that this label delivers. Is the corporate ownership and direction taking its toll on the quality, would be whay SWMBO and I would ask? But it was a warm and sunny evening, with nice nibbles around, and the bottle was drained quickly. This was followed by a very tight 2004 Soljans 'Legacy' Methode. Clean, cutting, delicate autolysis, this could have handled more bottle age. We all made the connection from the name 'Legacy' that the three families all drove Subaru 'Legacy' cars among others!
Then came a progerssion of whites, including a spicy, exotic, but still young 2010 Starborough Marlborough Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay dominant 2009 Heart of Gold Gisborne Chardonnay/Viognier that satisfied the big wine drinkers. We then had a visit from The Brazilette who opened her 2008 Salomon Undhoff Riesling Pfaffenberg, a classical, steely, intense wine with considerable minerality. We wished we had some shellfish at that point!
With The Brazilette in attendance, it was time to open some reds, all from the Cabernet Sauvignon family, but spanning some two decades, from different countries. The 1989 Te Mata 'Awatea' Cabernet/Merlot showing real cool-climate stalkiness and acidity, in a small-framed way. Still alive and kicking, and not the best red wine to go with lamb rack. The 1979 Ch. Giscours Margaux was a surprise. Fullish and rounded, but somewhat understated. A solidly presented wine that filled the mouth, but left you searching. Acidity was the underlying factor holding it together. Good savoury flavours, tending a little gamey, but hardly objectionable. Then a 1998 Jacobs Creek Limited Release Barossa Cabernet Sauvignonm, which marked JC's 25th Anniversary of 1976-2001. This was an extraordinary wine in its day with real herbaceousness that the Aussies craved after as varietal character. It still had it, but the euc'y notes now appearing. It was a true-blue Ocker in the end, but that thread of acidity through the line of the palate.
It was the end of the night. All the family members were tired, and that was that!

Plans

2010-10-21T13:08:00.000-07:00

We've been meaning to catch up with The Real Mr Parker for some time. Business took him to Oxford University for a presentation. We'd been busy with plans for a new endeavour. But we managed to plan a get together finally. It was going to be a quick gossip session with some nibbles.

We thought we'd open the proceedings with a 1999 Tyrrells 'Vat 1' Semillon. We brought it back from the Hunter Valley, and planned to have it with The Chairman, but, he'd be very familiar with it, so we'll find some other treasure for him. It was a shame to open it, as it was deemed to be in an ugly phase. Unforthcoming on the nose, but with more on palate. Tight, brooding oily lanolin and green grass at this stage. If it was younger, it would have been delicate, fresh and nuance. It it was a decade older, then it would have been gloriously toasty. You can't plan for these things sometimes.

A 2004 Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot brought back from the States by Mr Parker came next. Pristine cork, and a dark coloured wine that combined lovely ripe liquorice and plums with a thread of elegant herbaceousness on nose. Palate very fine-grained, yet rich and intense. More European than Australasian. It had to be Californian. A wonderful bottle with the three cheeses served.

We brought out a 1998 Grant Burge Barossa 'Meshach' Shiraz that SWMBO acquired years ago. Remarkably elegant and fresh with lively acidity, yet great concentration, sweetness and depth. Multi-layered with savoury, spicy notes emergent with breathing. A bit obvious, but typical Aussie in doing so.

We finished with Mr Parker's treat he bought in the Rheinpfalz, a 1985 Burklin-Wolf Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Spatlese. Golden, gloriously honied and toasty on nose, yet definably Riesling with floral notes. A drier wine than expected on palate - but after all, it's only a Spatlese! Rich, dense, full, concentrated, but even and light enough to float in the mouth. Not quite ethereal. Soft through lower acidity compared to the Mosel. Mr Parker felt it drying out. SWMBO and I thought it still on the plateau.

We made plans to make a bigger affair of it in a few months time. After all, that's what good wines are for - to share with friends and make occasions memorable. Like this one, planned in a way, but taken to a direction mot imagined.

Growing Gurus

2010-10-14T10:06:00.000-07:00

Over the last three seasons, it has been a pleasure to have Steveski and Donnaski as our friends. They are gurus in their own right, masters of the white fluffy stuff, and SWMBO has been the beneficiary of their technical expertise, while both of us have enjoyed their company immensely. When these gurus came to town, it was amazing to see their understanding and enjoyment of wine take a leap forward as they were engaged in different vinous activities. Being passionate people in their own right enabled the igniting of the latent wine interest.

Coming into home, we opened a 2009 Framingham Sauvignon Blanc. Stock standard fare, and drinking well now. In no way should this sound derogatory. This won accolades in Decanter magazine, and quite rightly too. Then a 2008 Church Road Merlot/Cabernet. Vibrant, purpley, supple and absolutely delish. The output from this Hawke's Bay winery has been superb of late, and this punches way above its station. Then a more savoury 2005 Pegasus Bay Merlot/Cabernet. While ticking all boxes, there's an underlying thread of sap which comes out in an ungainly way with air time.

The next day, we headed off over the hill, to visit our local vignoble. We took with us as swapsies a decadent 2009 Terrace Edge Pinot Gris, paired with a 2009 Mt Beautiful Pinot Gris, more sinewy, tighter and longer. But both on the full, rounded and riper style, rather than the boney Pinot Grigio way. Also brought along to show the locals were a 2005 Carrick 'Excelsior' Pinot Noir - rich, ripe, structured, almost surly, but good with it. This was paired with a 2005 Fromm 'Fromm Vineyard' Pinot Noir, which was unfortunately corked. However, looking past the TCA, one could see the silky-smooth, fine-grained texture and superb poise.

26 bottles, one tank and three barrels later, everybody's expertise had gone up a notch. Dinner with Diamondski and Bobski meant sipping on a complex, full-bodied 2008 Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay and perfectly poised 2008 Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir. Tasted on the tasting circuit during the day, these were stand-outs. On the dinner table, they melded and merged with the food. It's amazing how wine does that, and reflects how wine should be a natural and unforced accompaniement while eating. Bobski pulled out a number of cellared wines, but SWMBO chose a gloriously honied-toasty 2000 Pegasus Bay Riesling. Perfection to drink and its slight sweetness just magic.

A hard day's work saw a number of bottles opened as a reward. Three aromatic/new whites set the scene. The 2010 Forrest 'Doctors' Arneis was clean and correct. I just can't see the point of elevating this variety on a pedastal. It can only go so far. However the 2010 Forrest 'Doctors' Gruner Veltliner was a different proposition. Great aromatics, and good elegant follow-through on palate. As vines get older and winemaking settles, this could be very interesting. The 2010 Forrest 'Doctors' Riesling is another success. All the earlier vintages have been stars. The lightness of feet from low alcohol and seduction from sugar with botrytis hints makes this a winner. Then a remarkable preview of Larry McKenna's single vineyard Escarpment Pinot Noirs from the yet-to-be-released 2009 vintage. 'Pahi' was elegant, bright and light. Clean and pure for sure. 'Kiwa' took it up a step in weight, dimension and richness. I loved it, as did everyone else. The undisputed winner in the line-up had to be the complex, textured 'Te Rehua'. As Larry would say, this is what it's all about. The flagship 'Kupe' was a big, ripe, softie, very complex and out there. It will prove to be a talking point, as it should be, for many years. To finish off the night with a household of honoured guests, including the Pet Pal family, Gizzie Gold Gal and the Island Man, we broached a 1982 Ch. d'Yquem Sauternes. Not quite as fresh and lush as the one tasted in August, but still mpressive with honey, caramel, toffee and barley-sugar, on a weighty, dense palate. A touch less lively than expected after the August bottle, but a source of astonishing wonder, nevertheless.

You'd suppose this was to be the finale in the growth of the gurus' enjoyment, but lunch the next day with Toniski was enhanced by a particularly beautiful 2009 Vynfields Classic Riesling. Honey and flowers. Just delightful. We did need an interlude, but eventually dinner beckoned, and at the posh place, on the hill, we started proceedings with an elegant, tight and eminently drinkable NV Quartz Reef Methode. We had met Rudi coming off a plane at the airport the day before, so it was appropriate to toast him. A 2007 Escarpment Chardonnay was chosen to toast Larry. This opened up in glass, revealing lots. Probably a little too much in the malo department, but that's being picky. Steveski and Donnaski supped on glasses of 2005 Yalumba 'Signature' Cabernet/Shiraz. We toasted Robert Hill Smith, inspiration of the modern face of Yalumba and an Aussie guru in our eyes.

It has been gurus all round, and to see Steveski and Donnaski grow in appreciation of all things vinous has been a joy. We know they won't stop growing.

Relax

2010-10-05T13:18:00.000-07:00

It's a time of relaxation. A surprise visit by Pedro led to a meal out with him and Lady Gala, and it was indeed a bit of a carry-on. That's what happens when you're relaxed.

We started the proceedings with an NV Louis Roederer 'Brut Premier'. Great nose with loads of autolysis and depth, but surprisingly lighter on palate. Surprising as the one we had last week was pretty well perfect. Maybe this bottle was very fresh. Nevertheless, very delish.

We moved onto a 2006 Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay. Big, full, broad from development, complex, and at peak maturity. And in no way over the top or flabby. What a wonderful drink good Chardonnay is. By comparison, a 2008 Auntsfield Chardonnay was very tight and unyielding. For 2008, it was backward, so it really had potential. With our main courses, a 2006 Poderi Colla Nebbiolo d'Alba was very varietal. Fragrant, complex and savoury, with great extraction and acid. Pedro, Lady Gala and SWMBO were in raptures. The tannin build-up got to me at the end of the bottle.

We were all pretty mellow by the latter part of the evening and our host Jameski shouted a Muscat Beaumes de Venise, producer and vintage forgotten. But it was absolutely clear-cut, clean and everything it should have been. Relaxation does have its problems, and memory can be put on hold. An interlude with Dows 10 y.o. was a let down. Too fruity. Not enough rancio. One to pass by. However the Delamaine XO was unforgettable in every detail. Glorious bouquet of intensity and finesse. Wonderful oak, but with fruit sweetness. Cognac is so stylish. And Delamaine is class.

Now that made us relax....

Endings

2010-09-28T01:38:00.000-07:00

It was a time to reflect on the past, and think about endings. Such topics arise in all situations. After a function where we tasted the wines made by The Dice Man, it was appropriate to end the night with a meal, accompanied by some good drinks. So off we went to the local ethnic eatery, bottles in hand.

It was lovely to compare two German wines, Riesling Spatlesen no less. A 2007 Loosen Erdener Treppchen was pure and fine with exciting acidity, and that hint of exoticism that this site injects into its wines. Match to a heavier, denser, more compact, but bigger 2006 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke. To me the Loosen won out - partly the vintage as a factor. A red is mandatory, drier and textured for food purposes, of course! Here The Enduring One brought along a 2006 Clos Salomon Givry 1er Cru. Lightish, softening, and savoury, all in a nice way. But that was it. However, his 2004 Conterno-Fantino Barolo 'Vigna del Gris' was quite spectacular. Very ripe dark fruits, almost chocolate and liquorice, with tannins and acid to die for. Great finesse, in an obvious way.

The meal finished, and we really didn't want it to end, so we all headed off home. The Library Man and the Brazillette hadn't been our way before, so it was novel for them too. In honor of all the Burgundy lovers present, SWMBO thought it was good to bring out the twin=set from Domaine Bertagna. A rare 2007 Bertagna Vougeot Blanc 1er ' Les Cras'. Faintly reductive and tainted by TCA, but rather four-square without the deft and delicate nuance that makes real southern white burgundy special. But 'it is what it is' and was accepted. Slightly better received was the 2006 Bertagna Vougeot 1er 'Clos de la Perriere', quite modern, dark berry fruited and all good, but unexciting and without soul in the final analysis.

In honour of The Library Man, who has a liking for Ch. Montrose, we brought out a 1980 Ch. Montrose St Estephe. Darkish, almost ripe, clean from horses, a little green and acid, but actually enjoyable and a revelation for a poor vintage. The Library Man was enamoured. So the 1979 Ch. Montrose St Estephe was to be a step up for him. But no, he kept on liking the 1980. Everybody else preferred the 1979, bigger, denser, sweeter, livelier and with a future still. And no brettanomyces! The Enduring Man was taken.

This should have been the end, but we thought we'd better do it properly. So out came a 1986 Penfolds Grange. A great year. Still youthful, and very Aussie, but not sickly so. Instead, refined massiveness, and just the beginnings of secondary complexities. Softened tannins, but still substantial with grip. Most thought it a decade younger. The Brazillette had only tried one Grange before....

It all settled down to a quiet time with The Dice Man, SWMBO and me. The End, it had to be. So a nice wee half bottle of 2004 Ch. Suduiraut Sauternes. Liquified hokey-pokey, but with the Semillon lanolin undercurrent, and lush fine, clean mouthfeel. Decadent, yet pure. Technocrats would say too much VA. Too much oak. But no, it was perfect to sip. To the end.

Sharing and Caring

2010-09-16T12:47:00.000-07:00

What a fun night with three blokies who are supported by three babes. Of course I'm backed by SWMBO. The New Man by The Eventress, and Brucie by the Bassinet Babe. A dinner for six saw a lovely collection of wines served with a yummy dinner, that The New Man put together.

Arrival saw our fave, an NV Veuve Clicquot Champers, soft and rich, but with good depth. A delicious slurpy-sippy start that got the conversation going. It's hard to beat a great bubbles for that. And that 'yellow' label ensures consistency and quality.

Served with fish entree were a 2008 Greenhough 'Hope' Riesling and 2004 Montana 'Terroir Series' Waiherere Chardonnay. Both worked well with the fish, the slight sweetness of the fish enhanced by the sugar in the Riesling. Nice hints of honey and toast too in it. A bit of a beauty. But a bit of a beast was the Chardy. Fat, rich, sweet and nutty with ripe tropical fruits, mealiness and coconutty oak. Yet not flabby or overblown in anyway, it was well poised. And it's freshness worked with the seafood.

Main course was a meaty casserole with new season asparagus, carrots, finely sliced Dauphinoise spuds. Classic winter/spring fare. Two rather excellent reds came out. A super, lush, smooth 2001 Craggy Range 'Sophia' Merlot/Cab. Tannins seemingly resolved, but with excellent structural and harmony. Aromatics to die for. Piece de resistance was the 1998 Te Mata 'Coleraine' Cab/Merlot. Dark, vibrant, classy Cabernet line and extract. Real ripeness with fresh acidity that is remarkable for such a hot, dry year. This was still youthful in essence and should keep another 10-20 years, based on this bottle. Fantastical stuff!

To finish the evening with the caramel and apple cake and was a rare 2006 Felton Road 'Block 1' Riesling. 9.5% alc, medium sweet, and very fine with it. You'd be a blockhead to not love it.

It was a night of sharing and caring all round, lubricated with nice wines. Another night was agreed for the agenda.

Clarity

2010-09-15T10:54:00.000-07:00

The last few days have enabled clarity of thought and vision. Life circumstances all coming together allows this. And the wines have been all the better for it.

With the Planning Man and Mrs Well-Planned, we supped on a 2008 Vynfields Classic Riesling with a wide range of Asian dishes. What a beauty it is. Gorgeous and lush, with a perfect balance that did not allow it to err on the side over too sweet. And just a touch of toast and honey. It went with all the food!

Then a Majestic catch-up with the Little Aussie Battler. She's off to Austria soon, so no better wine to serve than Groo-Vee! A 2010 Forrest Doctors' Gruner Veltliner was chock full of exotic tropical fruits, laced with youthful bubble-gum esters. Off-dry, the sugar adding to its pleasure. Wait 'til this settles down. It's a cracker now and will continue to be. Then a 2006 Brundlmayer Ried Loiser Berg Gruner Veltliner from Kamptal, at 13.0% alc. Somewhat firm, steely and hard. Better with food and some air time. But I don't think it'll get better now. There's promise with GV in countries outside its home.

And then Kristal Kirsty and the Stromboli Import ambled in to our neighbourhood eatery. After a false start, we settled on a 2008 Villa Maria 'Fletcher' Riesling. This was a wow wine with sheer delicacy and finesse. Low alcohol - 10.5%, some rs, and the barest toastiness, all making a very delicate and crisply sumptuous aperitif. Then a classical 1982 Ch. Beaucaillou St Julien. I was a bit paranoid about brett and TCA, especially with our experiences of this vintage and this property. It seemed stinky and funky on opening. I condemned it. But again, with breathing, true clarity of character come through. This was very, very elegant, fresh and lush even for the normally austere style of the label. Sweetness and concentration, and time ahead - another 10-15 years easily. Funny how these oldies seem to have slower aging as they get older. I was a little hung up on 'resiny oak'. SWMBO probably still saw brett. KK and SI had no problem.

Ah, isn't this the joys of wine. It's so clear to me that we gotta share!

Vertical

2010-09-03T14:39:00.000-07:00

The straight up-and-down approach is best. Honest and being open. We love PB - Push Biker - he's as straight as they come. Gritty anf fun with it. He knows how the make wine too, so it was a pleasure to spend an evening with him. SWMBO, the AC Electric Man, and AM Academic Man, all had a night ambling into our favourite neighbourhood eatery, then heading home for a vertical tasting.

Over dinner, we were presented with an Albert Mann Cremant d'Alsace. Fresher that what I remember it last and good for it. Not really complex, but hey, it's not Champers! Then hearty main courses accompanied by a 2006 Ch. Leoville Poyferre St Julien. Black, shiny, tight and silky, and refined with a complex intensity lurking below. Referring back to the recently tasted fleshy Lynch Bages and exotic Gruaud Larose 2006s, this had classiness.

So off home to a vertical of Ch. Montrose St Estephe. From the 'long-left cellar', we had two bottles without labels, damage from years of neglect. But my guess they were from 1976 and 1978. In between was the 1977, label intact. So out came the corks, breaking them all on extraction, they turned out to be 1975, 1977 and 1978. The 1975 seemed a bit stinky at first, as many of these oldies get, after being cooped up for such a long time. Then breathed off to reveal ripe, sweet fruit, meaty and gamy to be sure, but actually clean with secondary character rather than brett spoilage. It took us a while to make that conclusion. Not too tough and tannic, as this vintage can be. The next night a little musty, in the 'best' sense. But still soft and very together. Montrose in those days was a bit robust, and the experts then said it needed decades to come around. They were right.

1977 was a cool year, and sure enough, stalks, herbs and high acid. Nice texturally, if you ignored the acid sear. And some freshness of fruit. Quite remarkable in that sense. Some development, but really quite backward in expression. It went into the lamb shanks stock the next day. The 1978s are proving to be less and less attractive with time. Indian Summer saved the day, so they said. But we know that accelerated end-of-season heat just can't make up for a long poor growing season. Lean hard and dryish. But dark fruits showing. Sort of Jekel and Hyde for me. Hard to drink, so off went the remainder of the bottle into the lamb shanks stock too. I bought these wines in the early 1980s for under NZD $25.00. What a great buy, looking back nearly 30 years later.

To treat ourselves with some ripe fruit and sunshine, we opened up a 1998 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon. A great, great year as we easily saw. Wow, this was backward and tight. To me, Bin 707 is the essence of Australia using Cabernet Sauvignon. As opposed to the Wynns 'John Riddoch' Coonwarra Cabernet Sauvignon, which is the essence of Cabernet Sauvignon, using Australia. But this 707 was truly varietal, intense quality black fruits at the ripe, chocolate, licorice and mocha end of the spectrum. Hints of eucalypt. Very fine extraction, but massive with it. This will keep over two decades more. The quality was superb, just like in the 1998 RWT Shiraz we had earlier this year.

Then a little something to reminds us all that time in bottle can change an outlook. The 2001 Felton Road Riesling was pretty reductive on release. It will never be good was a call. But now, the sulpjides have integrated, keeping the fruit fresher than expected - no toast or kero. But this was a savoury Riesling now, not really racy and aromatically pure. Different, but now good.

At the end of the night I was still vertical. The others sloped off, one by one, to become horizontal. Being older, you learn how to keep going...

Sugar, Sugar; Honey, Honey

2010-08-24T17:36:00.000-07:00

A vertical tasting of Ch. d'Yquem is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I've been the recipient of three now. All due to the generosity of the Appliance Couple. They've applied themselves to collecting this ultimate dessert wine, and they have a need to share the collected bottles with their friends when the appropriate big birthday comes along. I send them a Christmas card regularly, and I keep getting invited, so I'll keep up my end of the deal...

This was a thirty plus bottle affair, with most of the wines served at a serious, sit-down tasting. These went from 1946 to 2006. Afterwards, there were three vintages served at a designed dinner, all from big bottles. The extravagance! But no, they were shared among a lot of people, and the word generosity must be applied. Here's my run down on them, from old to young, in the logical and natural groupings they appeared to be, for me:

The Older Wines: 1946 - 1969
These were past their plateau, with the 'dark side' showing. That's burnt toffee and caramel, full blowsy palates, and lower acid profile. It should be said some of these look young and fresh, with many years to age, but they were a surprise. The 1946 was one of these, quite pale in colour and lively in the mouth. Then two dark coloured wines, brown, mahogany and tawny looking. The 1955 malty and rich, and quite lush, the 1958 a bit of a dense old beast with fortified-like character, including rancio. Our 1960 had TCA, pinching it, giving it some bitterness and grippy texture. The 1967 was a little beauty, all pristine in a medium weight style. Quite pretty indeed. Unfortunately the 1968 was flat and dull, one of the lesser wines of the whole tasting, but this was made up for by the 1969, a wine with excellent drive and length, needing some extra liveliness to be great.

Wines at Full Maturity: 1970 - 1983
The room of 30+ tasters all agreed this was the period they would drink Ch. d'Yquem. Who am I to disagree? They were all on their plateau, some doing better, others worse. It all depends on the vintage and the condition of the bottle. Our 1970 had everything there, but not quite the dimension to go to the top. But the 1971 did have it all, until the slightly drying finish. We are being picky here! 1975 and 1976 are the twins to compare. Most people like the size and power of the 1975, and this was starting to get to full maturity, with darker complexities. I love the 1976, more elegant, more acidity, more detail. And fresher. I think I'm right in this. 1978 has never quite been up there, lacking the noble rot required for greatness, but it looked harmonious here. 1979 has always been reasonably well-rated, but I've never seen it this way, and this bottle had TCA dulling it all down. I've always enjoyed the 1980 for its soft elegance and it was that today. Punching above its station was the 1982, ripe tropical, driven with real length. However 1983 has always been a star, and a star it was here, immensely concentrated, elegant and fresh still, multi-dimensional. A wow wine.

The Younger Wines: 1986 - 1999
Here the brashness and obvious nature of youth was displayed. You could, however, tell where these children were going to end up. As good adults, or not quite as good adults. 1986 seemed to make great wine everywhere classic wine was grown. But our bottle lacked a bit of lustre. It was a difficult year in 1987, and it shown on the sour nose, however redeemed by a nice, soft, attractive palate. 1988 is a cracker year, and this was locked down, waiting to blossom. When it does, it'll be one of the greats, as one can sense its quality. It was a pity about the 1989 being corked. I was in a 5.0 Litre bottle too. Normally a decadent wine, but here, dulled and dryish. I could still drink it - no trouble! Slight oxidation on the nose on the 1990 was more than made up for by the wonderfully layered and harmonious palate. That dreaded cork-taint also got the 1991. Medium weight, smaller, musty and flat. TCA also knocked the 1993, but the wine fought back with its richness. The problem with the 1994 was huge volatility on the nose. but a solid palate redeemed it into the pretty good category. The faintest mustiness on the nose on the 1996 did not prevent this being seen as a wine that will become a classic. Make sure your bottle is clean! Wow, the 1997 is a big, rich, statement wine. Served from a 5.0 Litre, it was coming along. It may age quicker than some around it. The 1998 will also mature relatively quickly, its softness making the integration happen. And likewise the 1999, a medium weighted goodie, with all the right things, but a little wallflower-shy.

The Recent Releases: 2001 - 2006
New wines, all easy to identify componentry, not unlike other sweet wines of the world. You can still detect the d'Yquen essential nature, but 'terroir' has yet to come. 2001 will be one of the greats. The perfect young d'Yquem. 2002 maybe a little ignoble? Some lolly notes, only OK. But 2004 is a sleek and beautiful wonder. Almost as good as the 2001. Ours came from magnums. I hope it gets there for sheer elegance. The 2005 clean, oily and unctuous, for the medium term, but nice with it. And finally a very smart 2006, absolutely clear-cut and oozing potential to be near the top echelon.

Its all easy to condense the notes and scores to a few flip words. But the occasion was a most special one. We all cheered and saluted the Appliance Couple. There have been better words written than this blog, and they'll come out in time. They'll do justice to the wines and the kind folk behind the tasting.

Incidentals

2010-08-23T14:05:00.000-07:00

We had the big event. Tasting around three dozen vintages of Ch. d'Yquem. I'll do another blog on these soon, after I gather my thoughts. At the big dinner, there were lots of other wines. Some of these were great wines with immense pedigree. Yet in the context of the day and night, they were incidentals. However, they deserve respect and a report on how they showed - well at least to me. I only tasted about 15% of what was going around the dining room, on the other tables. Sort of in style order, and not how they were 'served', they follow:

A rather plain 2002 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Spatlese. Shy, muted, in the past noted for its VA, but I'm not good on that. However clean in other ways. Not that rich, really.

A series of Chardonnays. The 2005 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay had lots going for it, quite complex, but in the context of the next two, rather up-front. The 2005 Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne beautifully fresh and fine. I can see why Corton-Charlemagne and Grand Cru Chablis can get mixed up. Then a 2002 Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er 'Folatieres'. I was going to be scared to look at this because of premature oxidation, but not here, this was complex, nutty, steely and with substance in a gritty-grunty style.

A couple of Pinot Noirs. Funny how these can look a bit light when in the company of monsters. For Pinot and burgundy to shine here, they need to be truly ethereal, or big enough to take the clarets and Rhones on their own level. The 2002 Senard Corton 'Clos du Rois' was pretty and clear, without the herby-fungal base these wines can be made around. Modern stuff indeed. The 2001 Quartz Reef 'Bendigo' Pinot Noir was not outshone by the previous wine, still shy, tight and with legs to go, as this label usually has.

Rhoney things looked good in this dinner context. A 2007 Domaine la Boussiere Gigondas full of juicy Grenache fruit - brilliant! Not quite so endearing was the 1996 Rostaing Cote-Rotie 'Landonne', somewhat herb and vege tinged, to a still youthful, structured palate. Not pretty, but serious. The 1990 Wynns 'Michael' Coonawarra Shiraz was a wow. A great year. This was still fresh, minty-fruity with pepper, black berried fruit and spices on a supple palate. Yum yum.

But tonight it was claret night. A host of clarets that I only got to try a few of. Two 2006s were pretty smart. The 2006 Ch. Lynch-Bages Pauillac was full, broad, open, but packed with powerful cassis juiciness. The 2006 Ch. Gruaud-Larose St Julien was more aromatic, and lush. Slight bretty notes lurking, but not detracting at this stage. The other Mr Parker would love this. However, jam-packed with Mr Brett was the 1990 Ch. Batailley Pauillac. For this label, it was well-built - probably the best I've seen made under this label. But the brett.... As was the 1986 Ch. Montrose St Estephe, still vibrant and dark. Powerhouse in its day no doubt, and still there. But alas chocka full of brett. Drying too. Thus, this was well overstructured. And a 1982 Ch. La Lagune Haut-Medoc. Very aged, savouriness and complexity. Also plagued by brettanomyces. The tertiary characters and brett melding together. Still some sweetness, but also sourness. At time of release, the other Mr Parker loved it...

At the end of the night, there appeared some 1950 Calem 'Quinta da Foz' Single Quinta Port. Tawny and quite clear and light. Very elegant. Truly tawny in style with drying finesse through the palate and rancio kick-in on the finish.

All these would have been great on their own. And they were fabulous to taste - and drink. But on this day and night, they were unfortunately incidentals.

Casual Catch Up

2010-08-20T13:50:00.000-07:00

Big Weekend. Preamble. Staying with old school friend and his family of girls. Noisy and fun.
Off to the pasta and pizza joint.

A trio of casual wines to set the scene - because we were to have some special wines later. But more on this in a later blog. Sometimes it's great not to think too hard about the wines you are drinking, and you get very pleasantly surprised, as was the case here.

A 2007 Mount Edward Central Otago Riesling. SWMBO loves this, and with reason. This was clean, fresh and delicately refreshing, but with enough body to handle the food situation. Nice wine that will live for some time. If you gave it some thought, it was shy, though.

A 2008 Single Paddock Central Otago Pinot Noir stole the scene. Delightfully vibrant, juicy, simple and gulpable. Made for a supermarket chain. But at that moment, it was all you needed. With air-time, its true colours came out. It was obviously (then) picked too early and green. It got a bit meaner and harder to drink.

Finally a 1996 Saltram Classic Barossa Shiraz. Great year in the Barossa. Great winemaking team too. Thoroughly integrated and a soft, smoothy. But with air time, the animal came out. Brett was rife in the past. It made for tasty, flavoursome, gamey-tasting wines that were deemed European in style. Hah! We know better now.

Eating and drinking in a fun environment made them all good. So there!

Near Perfect

2010-08-19T11:26:00.000-07:00

What a lovely night we had with the real Mr Parker. It was full of news, not all the best, but that's what is happening in real life. In a perfect world it would be a bit dull in the end?

And the beverages were that way too. Over a meal at the favourite eaterie, we had a 2007 Loosen Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese (white cap, not Gold). The Goldcap has that much more richness, botrytis and textural depth, and a little more 'extra' nuance that makes it pretty much the ultimate. This white cap was a little less rich, but cleaner, more poised, more acidic, and pretty well just as perfect as the God cap, but in a different space and different way. Delicious with the Asian food, and probably better than the Gold cap would have been. And surprisingly not overly sweet! It unfolded more and more, but kept its stylishness.

Also sipped on was a 1999 Jadot Musigny, a Louis Jadot domaine wine, of course. Mr Parker would not have anything but the best! A bit scary to open, particularly with the lightish Asian meal, as Jadot's way is big, serious and meaty - the the vintage is a strong one. On broaching, it was full of funky, complex bits, tight and densely solid. It wasn't a pretty Musigny for sure. But as these burgundies do, it developed in the glass. The terroir of Musigny appeared on bouquet. Silky nuances of meaty perfumes. The palate remaining acidic and alive. And coming harmonious, with nuance and interest. My early summary was "Musigny on the nose and Jadot on the palate", and this held true. No hurry with this one - another decade easily.

We went home for a nightcap. SWMBO and I couldn't think of a better occasion than having Mr Parker share our 2002 Eitelsbach Karthauserhofberg Riesling Eiswein. Only 6.0%, so he could drive home! Golden colour, and the most amazing depth and concentration of florals, minerals and ice, with toast and honey on the nose. It was on drinking it that its glory was revealed. Incredible depth of flavour, amazing presence and acidity, as Eisweins have. The inclusion of botrytised fruit giving it a forward flavour edge. If it wasn't showing the development, it would be perfect. But then less enjoyable on the night for us. So perfect, really!

An Event

2010-07-28T13:07:00.001-07:00

A long-due catch-up with the Eventress and her new man made the evening an event in itself. We are now up to speed with the goss, and there are plans to interact in the near future. We didn't know it, but the new man was a wine man too, so the bottles brought out were appreciated.

Starting with the cellar-door-only NV 'Pelorus' Rose Methode Traditionnelle, this was a beautiful aromatic-floral and small red fruits wine with medium body but a fullness and completeness, and no heavy spots at all. Quite a delight and we played games with the wine in different Riedel glasses. Those 'La Grande Dame' glasses really bring out the bouquet. Then a more settled, clean, fresh, and elegant 2009 Starborough Pinot Gris from Marlborough. Slippery and fine, with minerals and pears with a touch of spice.

The meal meant red wines. A comparison, a 2001 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir was dark, deep, full, with savoury cherry and plum flavours. Quite big and lively, not quite the detail and nuance, but lovely secondary truffle notes now. No real hurry. Paired with the unusual 2000 'Pinot Noir2001' N.Z. Reserve Pinot Noir, a blend of juice from the 64 participating wineries at Pinot Noir 2001, elevaged by Larry McKenna and 'friends'. Garnet, cooler, sappy notes, high acid and lean. Not particularly enjoyable, but the acidity will keep it going, but no-where great.

Back to reality. The 2007 Te Mata 'Bullnose' Syrah came straight out of the cooler downstairs cellar. It was tight, refined, superbly peppery with florals and spices. The proportion of this wine on palate is excellent. As the conversation moved to different parts of the world we had visited, we went to California with a 2007 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel at 15.5% nominal alc. Powerful black fruits, spices and pepper. Not sure about 'blueberry pie' as is oft-quoted for the variety. Firm structure and somewhat hot. A bit too much after a series of more elegant reds.

Then the finale, the new man's dessert wine. A real blast from the past - 1993 Rongopai Botrytised Chardonnay at nine-comma-five% alc. Dark mahogany, but brilliantly clear. Loads of toffee, caramel and brown barley sugar, and even more sweetness, but countered by massive acidity. The flavours were showing the downhill path, but the mouthfeel still had a long way to go. A treat to finish the bottle and to finish the evening.

Getting It Together

2010-07-27T03:04:00.000-07:00

It was an odd evening with formalities. SWMBO was on another mission, so I was solo at first. A quick phone call made it possible for us all to get it together for a meal, followed by another bottle or two.

In the end it was a merry group. The Tall Waiheke Man was the guest, and the AC Electric Man and Natty were in attendance. We were joined by Peeler and Dan Young Man from our favourite eatery. We started off with a pair of young 'uns. A 2007 Bischoflische Priesterseminar Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spatlese at nine-comma-five! A touch reductive on nose, opening up to a lovely limey-honied soda-pop palate that was carried by the sugar, but nicely so. Then a seriously sleek 2007 Remiziere Hermitage 'Cuvee Emile', modern, dark in colour and fruit, with ripeness galore and loads of oak. Deep and tightly bound, but a smooth beauty to put away for 10+ years really to do it justice.

Then the main feature. 1983 vs 1982 Ch. Leoville-Barton St Julien. The corks slid out firmly in one piece and a quarter soaked. A good portent? The '83 dark coloured, dark berry fruited and refined with intensity. A touch hard and lean moving to game then horses with air time. Still with grip, but on a plateau. The '82 quite glorious with its richness, sweetness, sumptuousness and liveliness and any other 'nesses you'd like to add! You couldn't get a better example of an 1982 claret. As good as it gets and it'll last another 15-20. It had it all together.

Then off home for something sweeter. We though we'd try the 1983 Deinhard Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese. Pale gold and reticent on bouquet. Sweet, but not very so. Plenty of defining acidity. Subtle toast, honey, creaming soda and caramel as these old Mosels get when they're getting it together. Two conclusions: One - it will always be a bit narrowed. After all, Bernkastel is over-rated as a top village compared to Graach, Wehlen, Erden, Brauneberg, and even poor old lost-its-way Piesport? Two - This is still a baby, with another 25 years ahead of it. I like this scenario better, but deep down I don't believe it...

The final act was a 1990 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port. A bit murky to the ruby-garnet, and it wasn't bad decanting. Soft, muffled nose with savoury, ripe red fruits. The spirit was excellent, but the wine a little dull and flat for me. SWMBO and most of the others had no problem. Damn node day on the biodynamic calendar? Or was it the full-moon the day before?

Long Timer

2010-07-18T00:26:00.000-07:00

It has been a long time since we had a long weekend on the go wine-wise. A night or a few nights interspersed with some gaps has been relatively easy to handle. But this weekend was all action from Friday to Sunday. SWMBO and I were the guests of Caz-Whizz and Brucie-Bro, who I must admit took it easy on us, but it all added up. Secretly, I thought they were the worse for wear too, but they wouldn't let it show.

Anyway, a highlight was the Saturday night roast. Caz-Whizz did a great job on this and the meat was juicy and tender. The beverage list was gentle and built up. First in the glass was a 2009 Mt Beautiful Cheviot Hills Pinot Gris. Weighty, ripe, honied and with some spice. We thought it had some botrytis adding positives, but I've been told the fruit was spotless. This will get better. Then on to a remarkably good 2007 Kemblefield Gewurztraminer. Loads of gongs, and it was still pale and fresh. A little grip on the palate, but that's what Gewurz does. The red was a 1983 Ch. Brane Cantenac from Margaux. Elegant, lively acidity, red fruits, moderated tannins and a touch of animal. All rather pleasant and quite drinkable, rather than a wow wine. In its day a modestly rated number, but as we've found, these old clarets take on a life and personality far better than ratings by Mr Parker. Then finishing with a developed 2005 Framingham Noble Riesling. Golden, full of caramel and honey, but with a power of acid zing. Moving along for me, but still able to hang in there a few more years.

All of these would be classified as long timers for what they are or were. Just like SWMBO and I, plus Caz-Whizz and Brucie-Bro, who will go a long way.

New Babes

2010-07-05T05:13:00.000-07:00

A visit from The Chairman and his new babe was a pleasure. The last one got the stamp of displeasure..... So nice new wines, some of them babes in the wood were brought out.

We had a pair of pretty sparklers to match the new babe. An NV Moet & Chandon 'Brut Imperial' with Diamantes came first. It sparkled on the outside, but was soft and less bubbly on the inside. Maybe store in heat? But the Chairman's NV Mumm 'Cordon Rouge' was fresh, delicate and fine - exactly what it should have been, and showing why this house is on the up.

Two heavyweight table wines. Firstly a 2007 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay. Still too young. A real baby. But great depth of mealy, nutty, stonefruit flavours and the sulphide complexities that wine judges love. Great wine in the making. Followed by a 2006 Chapoutier Cote-Rotie 'Mordoree'. In the context of a big Chapoutier line-up, this looks so elegant. But on its own a bit of a brooding child. Quite massive in structure and deep black fruits. Not really perfumed. A SWMBO and The Chairman noted a touch of funk that I accepted as 'interest'.

Next was a real sweetie. A 2004 W. Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese. Rich and decadent, yet beautifully racy and cutting. Real complexities of toast coming into the scene, and marmalade hints of botrytis. This was a new babe coming of age. And a beauty it was.

Homage to the Masters

2010-06-28T11:00:00.000-07:00

It is indeed a treat to have The Master visit. His easy, breezy attitude is a joy to see and he knows so much that his experiences are great stories. We pull out the stops to have a good time and it all adds to the occasion. The last two nights have meant going out to dine at our favourite eateries. Firstly to the best in town, a Temple of Gastronomy. On first impression, it looks expensive, but at the end, the quality delivered makes it worth more. Great finesse and feel in the food is the result of the best produce and skilled hands in the kitchen. Then to our local Ethnic Magic. Tasty, decent food, just delivered with friendliness. These two places are Masters at what they do.

Of course the wines had over the two nights have been fun too. In an order of style and place, I list them here: An NV Mumm 'Cordon Rouge' Champagne, soft, full and gentle, maybe bottle-aged, but drinking well on a plateau. Delicate autolysis and subtle complexities came through well. Great on its own. It was given to the cause by The Chairman, so we called him up and toasted him! The Master provided a 2004 Bell Hill Chardonnay from Canterbury. Also approaching a plateau with savoury and secondary nutty, mealy complexities, but still fresh and citrussy. No hurry, and a great match with warm, moist, smoked eel.

Reds at the ends of the spectrum all delighted us. Very restrained and burgundian was a 2008 Villa Maria 'SV -Southern Clays' Marlborough Pinot Noir. Soft red fruits, understated, but building in intensity, showing how seriously structured it was, with breathing. And what a treat to compare the 1982 and 1983 Chx Margaux pair. The 1982 full, rounded, rich and with massive structure. Quite accessible, but this got funkier with brett, bottle age interest and possibly TCA? Not quite pristine, but impressive nevertheless. A typical 1982. The 1983 was darker, more narrowed, tighter, fresher, with lifted dark fruits and scented berry characters. This seemed a little over-firm, but developed finesse and style. Not as rich as the 1982, but sleeker and livelier. Most of the votes went towards the 1982 first, but changed with time! The Dog Men were in town and they passed a glass of 2005 Chateau Rayas Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Wow, perfumes, very fine, subtle raspberries, warmth, and a tannin mouthfeel to die-for.

And a too-young 2006 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese. Softer than the acid-based Mosels we've been used to seeing lately. But just as pristine, and softly rich. A decadence waiting to happen. It must have been immaculately conceived as it was so clean. These 06s aren't the greatest, but in the hand of a Master, they can be pretty damn smart.

It was indeed a couple of days of paying dues to the best. Homage to the Masters.

Sweetness Rules

2010-06-26T21:46:00.000-07:00

We had The Master come to stay with us and there's no better excuse to try some sweet and delicious wines, especially over a good meal.

At the florid eatery, we struck out good with a 2005 Neudorf Moutere Riesling which was beautifully balanced at 11.0% alc and 30 g/L rs. Just starting to show a touch of toastiness along with the lime and minerally elements. Wonderfully restrained with its sweetness too. The Master was impressed. Mind you, it was his call to get it to the table.

We've been drinking some Riojas recently, and it pays to mention all three tried, though it was the latter we had for dinner. The 2006 Beronia Crianza seemed a bit pinched and the 2005 Beronia Reserva not as rich as I thought it should be. But wow, air help transformed them to another level. Richness, weight and sweet fruit and sweet vanilla of American oak. A 2001 Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva had immense concentration, grip and depth. This was still a baby. All of these traditional Riojas are imbued with plenty of acidity - just what you need with food.

Off home and The Master insisted on a 2006 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese in a half bottle. It was all that was needed. A hint of toast and reduction on the nose gave way to the most impeccably balanced palate. Lime marmalade, honey, flowers and minerals, with super zingy acid. But it was sweet and gorgeous.

Sweetness does rule!

Siblings

2010-06-19T14:31:00.000-07:00

Sibling get togethers are not common nowadays, even though we are in the same city. Busy lives seem to prevent the frequency, but when they occur, it's a lot of fun catching up on the gossip and to talk of old times. We did manage a session last night, at the Amble-Inn eatery, one of our favourites, where food and service was spot-on. It was 'Mags', 'Jude' and myself with our other halves. We all like eating, drinking and talking, telling tales, and it was a busy night. Of course, a few bottles were emptied...

Bubbles is a great way to begin, and the NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Blanc de Blancs was very dry, steely, minerally and almost austere. Perfect to whet the appetite. I do like the vintage version with a little more depth, richness and character, but this did the job. Some good oysters would have set it off. Then onto something richer, a stunning 2007 Spade Oak Gisborne Viognier, rich, weighty, lush, and loads of fruit fat, apricot, zest, and oak too. This went down a treat, so a back-up white was called in, a 2007 Bret Brothers Macon-Uchizy 'Martine', made by two organically focused siblings, stylish, almost refined and understated, but with a subtle build up. It should have come before the Viognier, but then we didn't count on my siblings' sipping power!

The main courses chosen had plenty of fillet beef. So reds were ideal. Two 'sibling' Margaux wines were the chosen ones, both from 1983, a good vintage for the commune, better than the rated 1982 vintage for most commentators. The 1983 Ch. d'Angludet started off sleek and vibrant with perfumes lifting black fruits and bright acidity. As air time took effect, the funky animal brett came out and dominated the proceedings and the tannin grip started to show dryness through the palate. It was a great match to see how the 1983 Ch. du Tertre changed too. Seemingly grubby on opening, this calmed down and began to show varietal Cabernet vitality, within a rather classical framework of tannin structure that allowed fruit sweetness come through. These lesser claret growths can really do the job, and this was one occasion.

We ended up saying our farewells to the wines, the eatery's good people and the siblings. A good night it was.

Iberian Bliss

2010-06-18T17:41:00.000-07:00

After a long gap, it was a pleasure to get together again with the Brit Biker, Tiggs, Teacher Ma'am and Niggle over a mainly Iberian themed evening. The feature was a paella and pair of ports, with a few other wines to bolster up the evening.

On arrival, we were greeted with a 2007 Villa Wolf Gewurztraminer from the Pfalz, an Erni Loosen creation. It spoke of Germany first, with variety second and was a very pleasant and surprising start to the proceedings.

Into the excellent meal prepared by Tiggs, we had a 2008 Baluarte Rueda Verdejo, an excellent refreshingly acidic white that had a bit of a mineral and herb twist. The racy mouthfeel made it a wine to work with any food, 'cos there was good weight and presence. But it was the reds that were eye-opening here. Firstly a 2001 E & E Barossa Sparkling Shiraz, rich with ripe berry and eucalypt-infused fruit with lovely cedary oak, all harmoniously held together in a froth-filled palate. A touch of sweetness (sugar?) just made it delish. Then matching this bubbly in fruit profile was a 2005 Telmo Rodriguez 'M2 de Matallana' Ribera del Duero, with its spicy oak and ripe dark peppery berry flavours and very fine textured tannins. Modern fruit style, and oaky for sure, but with the food, it worked well matching chorizo heat.

The vinous highlight had to be the two Vintage Ports from the legendary 1963 harvest. The same year as Niggle's arrival on this earth! The 1963 Croft was full, broad, still big, almost robust, and softening out with acidity freshness dropping away. But big fruitcake secondary and foresty tertiary notes, good extract, but rounding out and away. Cedar, spice, savoury and earthy, and a great drink now and over the next 5-10 years no problem, but peaking now. The 1963 Dows was one of those unforgettable, magnificent wines that will remain a memory marker and benchmark. Fading colour, ethereal dried roses, and a remarkably fresh, lively palate with racy acidity and tension. Wonderfully fresh florals, and distinctly sweet, and the spirit standing out still. The quality of the spirit was sheer class, and all up, this had another decade or two ahead of it. SWMBO was over the moon.

It was an evening of Iberian bliss for sure, and one that we should try to repeat.....

Spice and Nice

2010-06-05T14:35:00.000-07:00

It was a pleasant night out with the Cho-sen Ones and friends, talking on all subjects. It got a bit spicy and risque, as it can do sometimes, adding a bit of life to the conversation. Along with it were a few wines to tie it all together.

Starter was a lovely fresh 2008 Mt Edward Central Otago 'Drumlin' Riesling, attractive medium style at 12% alc, but you wouldn't think it was so high. Florals, minerals, honey and oh-so-delicate spices. Very gentle, and I'd have said 9.5% alc max.

Then with a gorgeous roast beef we tucked into the reds. A brace of multi-gold and multi-trophy winning siblings from the Villa Maria Estates group. The 2007 Villa Maria Reserve HB Syrah was succulent, seamless, Asian spices and smooth, while the 2007 Esk Valley Winemakers Reserve Syrah was full, plump and structured, less spicy, and more black berry fruited. It's a good job they are quite different.....otherwise you'd wonder if they could be the same wine with different labels - if you were a cynic of the Kiwi wine industry.

Then a treat from Timbo Medic Man, a 1993 Grant Burge 'Meshach' Shiraz, one from 100+ y.o. vines from the Barossa Valley floor. Still fresh with tension, but beautifully integrated, super ripe plums and prunes, some spice and liquorice. Wonderfully elegant too. It was no super blockbuster that was tough to drink, but rather a wine that crept up on you. Nice indeed!

We finished with a 2008 Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d'Asti, 5% alc, raisins and grapes, and spicy green tea leaves. Gorgeously soft and delicately frothy. No trouble putting it alongside the Cho-sen's apple crumble, lifted somewhat by the inclusion of feijoas.

A Refreshing Change

2010-05-21T01:53:00.000-07:00

With The Lady Chairman in town, it was an occasion to splash out. After a whole lot of wines tasted over the course of the early evening, it was time to relax with some wines to drink and enjoy. Off we went to a good eatery with the Tiddler in tow, and it was a nice group indeed.

The start of the proceedings was a bottle of NV Taittinger Champagne Brut Reserve. Gosh, what a soft, refreshing pick-me-up. The dosage seemed higher than a lot of the bubbles we've had lately, and its gentleness was a refreshing change. Well done SWMBO. Over the meal we had a 1985 Ch. Mouton-Rothschild. Dark and vigorous in colour, quite stylishly restrained on nose with nice dark berry fruits, the lovely earthy secondaries and only the barest hint of funk. What surprised us all was the thread of racy, fresh acidity running through the length of the palate. The whole thing wasn't a biggie, but more an elegant number, still with depth. In comparison with the 1986s, the 1985s were always softer, more supple and accessible. And certainly more enjoyable. Like tonight. In the morning, a glass left out had a little more animal, but in a nice way. Certainly no drying out of the palate. What a refreshing change to have a real nice older claret. It was well-liked by all of us.

Then at home, we talked into the wee hours over a trio of sweeties. The 2007 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Spatlese was full, and clumsily Rheinhessen, spoilt by reduction. The Lady Chairman was OK on it, but it went down the slowest. Then a pre-release 2009 Spade Oak Gisborne Late Harvest Viognier. Forward and weighty, this showed too much VA at first, but in the glass it came together. Lotsa caramel flavours. We needed something more special, so out came a 2004 Loosen Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese (not Goldcap). Tight and classy, toasty nuances with hints of cream and custard. Not quite the exotic power that we usually see, so maybe it was in a bit of a hole. But its sheer refreshing Mosel character came through. A refreshing change? Maybe not, as we seem to be doing this regularly.

Share the Love

2010-05-03T23:53:00.000-07:00

It was about time to open a few big names, and what better occasion than the arrival of a couple of wine-lovin' guests. After a look at a number of Iberian numbers, which were no slouches, we headed on out to the Cafe Gal's for a quick bite to eat. There were six of us in the end, including SWMBO and myself: The Chairman, Young Mad Turk, AC Electric Man and The Russian.

We started off with a 2007 Bruno Giascosa Roero Arneis, clean, crispish and surprisingly light, almost insubstantial, but positive. Then on to the heavyweights straight away. 1983 Ch. Lafite-Rothschild and 1983 Ch. Latour. The classic comparison at the top level. Both were pleasingly dark colored, indicating no hurry. The Lafite started hard, lean austere and tannic, the Latour sweeter, rounded and more complete. But with air time, as Lafite does, a perfume and ethereal quality, with fruit filling in the gaps. Really this was still quite unresolved. SWMBO and The Chairman were fans of this. The Young Mad Turk and myself fans of the Latour. We all agreed that 1983 came in the shadow of 1982 and was underestimated. We need to check this out more... It was fun to share these treats.

Then a young treat in the same class as the Bordeaux first-growths. A 2004 Ornellaia 'Masseto', 100% Merlot and outstanding with it. A dose of VA at first, and all over the place. As it breathed, the depth, richness and class came very evident. This weas my wine of the night, as probably was for the Young Mad Turk. Mind you, it was his bottle... He shared the love with this one.

And to follow at the Cafe Gal's place was a 2007 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Auslese 2006. Light golden hued, with a smoky wild yeast nose mixing it with the pure fruit. Not promising to me. But boy, did it deliver decadence on the palate. Breadth with weight, almost Rheinpfalz in style. Yellow fruits, exotic fruits, botrytis too. But enough acidity to make it work. The Russian loved it with his exotic fruit pudding.

We headed home for another couple of bottles. The 1996 Penfolds Bin 707 Cab Sauv was dull, flat and lacking fruit. The Chairman said probably oxidised. We agreed with the Chairman, as we should all do. So a 2001 Ch. Suduiraut finished off the night. Magical how these '01s are so classical and maturing up now. It has lost its VA annoyance. Oily Semillon and lots of bot with good alcohol body. Starting to soften a tad, but in no way broad. What a lovely wine to share!

Mild Shock

2010-04-29T00:52:00.000-07:00

Apologies for leaving the blog. Not much chance to taste the cellared stuff lately.

It was with a little trepidation that I opened two of six bottles of 1988 Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that we uncovered in a bit of a cellar re-organisation. I was going to open them and just tip them down the drain, as who would expect a 22 year old Savvie, from Cyclone Bola year be in any fit state? And on top of that, the last couple of bottles opened were oxidised to heck!

It was a bit of nostalgia, nevertheless. Those pale green bottles, Bordeaux shaped, with the Montana crest moulded into the shoulder. The crest printed on the label prominently, and branded on the cork. Those were the days...

Anyway, out came the corks. Damp to 7/8ths of the way, but still firm and they didn't break. They poured a light golden yellow, but thankfully not brown. The aromas of asparagus gently wafted up, out of the glass I poured them into. Acid, thin, some oxidation, but not dead! Mild shock-horror! Then I poured them down the drain. Shame on me! I must be a snob?

I gave two bottles away, and still have two to go. I'll save them for a special ocassion. Not.
I promise to have some good wine to write up next, now that the re-organisation has been done.

Phases

2010-04-11T10:31:00.000-07:00

It's been a little while since the last post. I suppose you must go through phases with writing for the blog. For me, it has been a lot of work taking precedence. But a vist by a special guest meant that good bottles and good meals were on the card.

This time we headed off to the wee eaterie on the hill. That was after a thirst-quenching bottle of 2008 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett. Pale, minerally, austere and quite chalky-seaside, but clean, crisp and refreshing, with potential to last a decade. At a young phase, no doubt. At the bistro, we started with a surprisingly lean, raw and green-flavoured 2008 Moss Wood Margaret River Semillon. We expected something a little more lanolin textured, but this was a treat with its fine features. Sort of like a toned-down N.Z. Savvy-Sancerre cross, but more. Good to see the Aussies go through this phase of greater elegance...

But it was the red wine pairing that was intriguing. We've been disappointed by the 1982 Bordeaux we've tried of late. Lotsa horses and stinky brettanomyces, and dried out wines, even in the big names. So it was with a bit of trepidation we opened two Right Bank jobbies from this so-called star vintage. The Ch. Belair St Emilion 1er GCC started of animal like, but cleaned up in glass to become fresh, vigorous, structured and complex. It's funny, 'cos way back in the 80's, guru Parker didn't rate this wine. I though I'd keep it anyway. It didn't let me down over two decades later. Things become more equal with age. SWMBO and our special man thought this wine super. Then on to the Vieux Chateau Certan Pomerol. Not quite as dark, not quite as grunty, but more elegant, some VA lift, silky smooth fruit and feel, and still fresh, though secondary in evolution. I liked this one the most.

As wine drinkers, we are going through a phase of preferring the Burgundy and Rhone styles, and we are tending to put in the background the Bordeaux wines, because they need time to show well. Hopefully this will change, otherwise we will miss out on some of the glories of the wine world by being impatient.

Togetherness

2010-03-13T11:13:00.000-08:00

It was an evening of unexpected amusement and good feelings as we tottered off to drinkies to celebrate the Russian's engagement. Two distinct generations of people, of which we fitted in with the older. Of course, with age comes mellowness and a coming together, an engagement following its path, I suppose.

A number of wines had come together pretty well. A young 2009 Framingham Marlborough Pinot Gris, full, with depth and quite ready now. A 2008 Starborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, now a little asparagussy, but rich and smoothly textured in a good way. A bit of a treat was a mature 2001 Te Mata 'Elston' Chardonnay with its complex mealy and tropical-grapefruit flavours and broad, substantial palate which kept its class.

The reds also showed well. A rare 2002 Gillman Merlot/Franc/Malbec from Matakana. The first vintage ever and one barrel made. Tight, Bordeaux-styled and resting on its acidity. This will keep and develop in an elegant way for another 5-8 years, getting more savoury-cedary. And looking extremely good was a 1998 Sileni 'EV' Merlot/Cabernet, dense chocolate and dark plums, dense and fully extracted in the past, but perfectly together with the fruit richness. Some bottles have been plagued by brett, this one perfect.

It can be wonderful when things come together...

Au Revoir

2010-03-05T20:05:00.000-08:00

It was a lovely homely dinner to send off The Little Aussie Battler as she went off on her way in the world of wine. She and the Drama Queen made a night of it with laughs galore and some significant wines on the way.

An introductory 2007 Hiedler Gruner Veltliner 'Spiegel' gave that soft peppery herb and spice note that makes the variety such a good starter. The Little Aussie Battler might have a hand in making wine from this variety later this year!

Then on to her love Pinot Noir and Burgundy. It was a three-way comparison: a fantastically rich, plump but structured 2008 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir. Simply outstanding indeed, and a wine that whilst easy the slurp down now, will keep a decade. In comparison a 2007 Cristom 'Mt Jefferson' Pinot Noir was harder, drier, less rich and more forward. Not a bad effort really, but sort of 'piggy in the middle'. SWMBO found it over-oaked Because the 2006 J-F Mugnier Nuits-St-Georges 'Clos des Fourches' was exceptionally pure and sleek, only a little shy at present. This will go a decade and a half we all reckoned.

A respite from red in the form of a German Riesling, something we all love. A 2001 von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtrofchen Auslese was perfection. Decadent, but restrained. Complex yet so accessible. Toasty, creamy nuances with fresh acidity. Drinking well now, but will keep to 2020 maybe!

With the Battler's dessert came a Gonzalez Byass PX 'Nectar' Dulce sherry. Soft raisins and seamless sultana essence. Just wonderful sticky, but not overly sticky stuff. With a finish, or should I say, "Au Revoir" to end the night, because there will be a catch-up with people, wine food and occasion!

Name Dropping

2010-02-28T01:25:00.000-08:00

It was a special night out with the big names. Jelly-Bean Girl got a group together with J-Walker, and The Chairman, Lady Chairman and the Motel Madam. All important people, but good mates and no pretension on their part at all.

The wines had to suit the occasion and people. What do you think? We started off with Mumm de Cramant, wonderfully pristine, minerally and fine. Perfect as a quenching aperitif and so gentle. Relatively rarified, it was a spectacular, but stylish drop. A couple of whites continued the big name procession. A tight, and still to develop 2008 Ata Rangi 'Craighall' Chardonnay, real potential for the next 4-6 years, no doubt, and a soft, lush, plump 2004 Vinoptima Gewuzrtraminer, made by one of N.Z.'s long time family winemakers scion- Nick Nobilo.

The old stuff came next. A 1982 Ch. Latour-a-Pomerol, rated really high by 'His Bobness' the other 'Mr Parker'. It was indeed a serious 'fleshpot', and if it wasn't spoiled by brett, it would have been a treat from the stars. As it was though, you could still taste the richness of fruit. Pity about the farmyard. Then to finish, a 1983 Deinhard Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Beerenauslese from the Rheingau. Orange in colour, the nose was high-toned citrus marmalade and old intensified barley sugar, echoed on the palate, along with searing acidity. This was still going to last another decade or two. We mentioned the big-name German best-seller at the time - Deinhard 'Green Label' Mosel. But it shouldn't have been in the same breath.

Then the next day, the Library Man opened the historic 1982 St Helena Canterbury Pinot Noir, mushroom and forest-floored to the max, but with fruit sweetness still. In actuality a better drink than the 1982 Latour-a-Pomerol. How can this be? I'd drink the not-so-big name out of these two!