tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-81221192626249291902024-03-20T01:09:46.270-07:00Wine NoterOccasional notes on 'wine treasures', some from a long-left cellarUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger521125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-47562283258183637112018-12-29T15:25:00.001-08:002018-12-29T15:25:10.037-08:00Some Pale in Comparison<br />
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Ros<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">é</span>
Champagne can be a strange breed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
diversity of styles is mind-boggling, and often one is left pondering if a
bottling or glass in front of you is true and valid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The more expensive deluxe cuvees can vary
considerably, and if anything can be even more difficult to understand.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The Prince very generously brought along for consumption a
ros<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">é</span> that baffled
him in style. Immediately he voiced his
concerns about the style. I tend to be
quite open and accepting of the varied styles.
Sure I have seen a broad range of them, but I know that if I had “no
problem” with it stylistically, we’d all get to drink it sooner, and without
the need to analyse it to pieces! Rather
self-serving approach, don’t you say?</div>
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<span lang="FR-CA">The wine in
question, the <b>2006 Taittinger ‘Comtes de
Champagne’ Champagne Ros</b></span><b><span lang="FR-CA">é</span></b><span lang="FR-CA">. </span>This style is a relative rarity,
the Blanc de Blancs generally more popular, with its fine white floral and
citrus fruit flavours, refined acidity and intensity, and stylishness. The ‘Comtes de Champagne’ Chardonnay could
hardly be represented better. But the ‘Comtes
Rosé’ is a different beast again. It’s more
about the Pinot Noir showcasing itself and what pink brings. On colour, this is deep and positively
peach-pink, rather than what appears to be the more fashionable pale and
delicate pink. There’s a touch of age
showing too. The bouquet and palate
features fruitiness, with savoury strawberries and an amalgam of ripe red
berries. The fruit is prominent and
actually allows sweetness to take over from the savouriness. The bready-yeasty autolysis is very much in a
support role and quite discreet. The
mouthfeel has lusciousness, with the red wine addition extremely harmonious,
and the tannins beautifully integrated.
In a way, this is a sparkling wine more as a red than a rosé! It sits at that end of the spectrum of
expression, and is truly delicious. The
more recent rosé Champagnes – SWMBO and I have enjoyed, I must state, have been
pale in style in comparison. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-25785202152044673282018-12-27T22:32:00.002-08:002018-12-27T22:32:46.706-08:00Chateau d’Yquem 2004 and 1998<br />
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It was the most pleasant of surprises when SWMBO and I were contacted
through mutual friends by The Nadister if we’d like to share in drinking two
bottles of Chateau d’Yquem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It took a
nano-second to think about it and reply ‘Yes!’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It wasn’t going to be a super-serious tasting, but 6 friends getting
together, tasting and drinking the wines, with some appropriate food, and at
place, because we had a fairly large table.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Even the glassware was supplied –Riedel Sommelier Sauternes
stemware!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In these circumstances, a
table is an easy one to share.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The Nadister has a collection of Yquems, but he chose two,
from either side of the change of ownership from the Lur Saluces family, and LVMH,
his theory being that the wines under the previous ownership were richer,
weightier and more complex.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My theory
was that the newer wines were more refined and elegant, thus better, and that
they would develop the richness and complexities as seen in the older wines
with some more bottle-age.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clearly we
need to do more research on this…<o:p></o:p></div>
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The two Yquems were from good but not necessarily
outstanding vintages. The <b>2004 Ch. d’Yquem Sauternes </b>comes from
one of my favourite drinking Sauternes vintages. It’s not the richest or most intense or
ageworthy year. But is fresh, elegant,
youthful and delightful, and delicious wines have come from it. I’ve been lucky to have tasted the 2004 Yquem
several times, and this bottle was brilliant, earning my praise as the other
bottles that have come my way. Light
golden yellow colour, this was redolent of waxy, lanolin Semillon fruit first
and foremost, still with primary notes, though nearly one and a half decades
old. Then a subtle marmalade and honied
botrytis layer, with supporting oak. Elegance
and freshness of mouthfeel, but still with opulence and decadence. You could tell it has plenty of time ahead,
and it will develop those more complex flavours. Everything about this is finesse. If you want to be critical, it was a
smaller-scale wine, but that’s harsh indeed. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Then the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">1998 Ch. d’Yquem
Sauternes</b> from a year where the harvest was split into two sessions by a
period of rain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Plenty of botrytis infection
resulted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was darker in colour,
golden yellow with a hint of orange.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Darker aromas and flavours with tropical fruits, crystallised fruits,
honey, nectar and orange marmalade with the beginnings of barley sugar, toffee
and a touch of caramel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lovely
concentration and depth, more so than the 2004, and with a degree of power and
linearity, and the softening of mouthfeel, but allowing greater opulence and
richness show.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My previous experiences
with the 1998 haven’t left the best impressions, especially with the 1997 next
to it being brilliant, but this bottle was a glorious, altogether wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not magical as one from a great year, but
telling you it’s close to it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The juxtaposition of the two years was instructive
indeed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both extremely good to drink,
and yet so different.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Nadister is
also a thinker. <o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-53419497614495586682018-12-26T20:02:00.002-08:002018-12-26T20:02:24.564-08:00Michael Begat Michael<br />
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The Chairman had made a special trip to visit us, and with
him, he brought a number of vinous treasures, from his cellar, not ‘long left’
in our case, but one that has regular withdrawals, so that nothing gets too
old.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Well, that’s the official line.)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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A little while ago, we had opened up a bottle of the very
first Wynns ‘John Riddoch’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon – from the 1982
vintage, and it was glorious, in great condition, showing both strong varietal
character and structure, with the benefits of bottle-age bringing secondary and
tertiary expression</div>
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.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So it was a treat for The Chairman to bring and open the
first Wynns ‘Michael’ Coonawarra Hemitage – from the 1990 vintage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is a wine I remember well on release;
from a great vintage with ripeness, and destined for a long life ahead of
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was inspired by the then one-off
1955 Michael Shiraz which had extraordinary personality, some of which supposedly
came from the barrels that previously housed fortified wine.<o:p></o:p></div>
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On this showing, the <b>1990
Wynns ‘Michael’ Coonawarra Hermitage</b> was remarkably refined, still with a
dark-red colour and some garnet hues, but near impenetrable. SWMBO and I thought it was going to be a bit
of a monster, but no, it had perfume and fragrance, showing black cherry and
berry fruit with that classic mint and herb notes that speaks of Coonawarra. Don’t get me wrong, it was rich and
succulently sweet in fruitiness, and tempered with very fine-grained tannin
structure. The acidity was perfect in
balance and gave vitality to the wine.
Subtle secondary and tertiary dried herb and earth, maybe a little game
too, and just a hint of TCA that came in and out of perception – so that gave a
little cause for concern, but in all practicality din nothing to stop us
drinking and enjoying it. It was a
beautifully elegant and deliciously sweet-fruited and refined wine.</div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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The Chairman’s name is Michael, who begat this Michael
Hermitage for us to share.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thank you! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-57701662422041723402018-12-21T09:50:00.000-08:002018-12-21T09:53:48.849-08:00Lafite, Latour and Mouton 1982<br />
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These iconic wines have been in the ‘long left cellar’ for
nearly three and a half decades, and in that time I’ve wondered about when to
broach them and who to share them with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It has been a nagging problem at the back of my mind all that time, but it
has also been a source of delight thinking and planning the possible solutions.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The wines are truly iconic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Thirty years ago, first-growth Bordeaux reds were the epitome of the wine
world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sure there was, and still is
great Burgundy and Rhone, and the special wines Piedmont and Tuscany; great
Californian reds were not quite there yet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>But across the whole world, claret took centre stage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In this country where we are cooler-climate
Pinot Noir-centric, and to a lesser degree enamoured with Syrah, the
Bordeaux-variety Blended Reds seem to have taken a knock-back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But those with a global perspective will know
the reality that Bordeaux still rules the roost.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just go to any true English wine merchant or
trader in the U.S., or in any part of Asia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>And look what heads the list at any reputable auction house – anywhere on
the planet.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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These are the big three – Lafite-Rothschild, Latour and
Mouton-Rothschild.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These still command
the greatest respect and prices (allowing for bizarre anomalies – does this
include Petrus?) They are the first growths of Pauillac.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other first-growths Haut-Brion in the
Graves, and Margaux in Margaux are equally revered, but the tight-knit grouping
of the three Pauillacs make them a unique trio.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It wasn’t always this way; it was Lafite and Latour, with Mouton joining
them by legal decree only in 1973.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
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The wines are all the quintessential left bank Bordeaux
reds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Consistently over decades, the
character has been the same, and reflect their geographical and geological position
in the appellation, the cepage, and philosophy of winemaking and style,
including tradition.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In short, the
Lafite-Rothschild is the most elegant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In blind tastings with the other two, it often is overlooked by those
newer to the wines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it always
develops well in the glass to reveal a complex myriad of flavour detail, with
perfect structure to match.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clearly
Cabernet Sauvignon-based, but Merlot has its say.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Latour can be a stupendous monolithic
expression of Cabernet Sauvignon purity and intensity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The drive and line is really unmatched by
others.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yet it has the most wonderful
sense of style and class.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It usually is the
longest-lived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then Mouton-Rothschild,
vigorously promoted to its proper place to first-growth by Baron Philippe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mouton is the most opulent and exotic, and
also features the richness that Cabernet Sauvignon is capable of.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has the attributes that draw drinkers to
its array of decadence.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And then the vintage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In the context of years around 1982, 1975 was the last classic
year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then the hot 1976.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1977 was a disaster – cool and wet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But 1978 was miracle year, saved by a classic
Indian Summer,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most 1978s are elegant
but have been beautiful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1979 was another
excellent year, maybe a bitmore soft and forward than ideal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1980 was a lean, green year, pretty in its
youth only.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1981 was an elegant, correct
vintage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then 1992, deemed too hot – the
wines were sweet and fleshy, and the U’K. experts said they’d develop
quickly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1983 was a hot and very dry
year, with ripe fruit and not enough freshness. 1984 a cool year that people
tried to talk up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then finally, the
lovely pairing of 1985, more balanced and proportioned, and 1986, the superb wines
with the hard core that would take a long time to show their best.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It took American Robert Parker to recognise
the greatness of 1982.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This vintage of
claret made his reputation, which stands today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Begrudgingly, the Brits came around to his perception.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The 1982s remain among the great vintages to
date.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So with life at the crossroads, SWMBO<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and I decided to open the bottles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was at Nessie’s pre-Christmas dinner, and
we had a number of special guests, including The Chairman.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Around a dozen of us all up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The perfect number to share a bottle for a
good taste.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were the usual
fears.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Would the corks come out well –
they did.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Will there be any wines corked
– no.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Would any show brettanomyces – no.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thank goodness, they were all go.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How did they look and drink.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We took the usual serving order as the way to
do it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
On<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>first impression,
all were dark-coloured still.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They all
smelt of the same ilk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The similarities
stronger than the differences.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Classical
blackcurrants and black fruits, with a touch of secondary and tertiary
development.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Concentrated, deep and
dense, and clearly complex detailed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then
they began to separate into their individual identities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">1982
Ch. Lafite-Rothschild Pauillac</b> was the most elegant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fantastical in its array of aromatics and
flavours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Black fruits with softer
redder fruits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beautiful nuances of herb
and earth with pencilly oak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Refine and
perfectly judged tannins.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a
complete experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">1982 Ch. Latour Pauillac</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The most intense and penetratingly linear
wine of the three.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cassis and
blackcurrant heaven.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bright and sweet
fruit with a tad more acid and tannin structure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Absolutely no coarseness, just class and
breed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beautifilly handled pencilly oak
again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And followed up by the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">1982 Ch. Mouton-Rothchild Pauillac</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For me the most divisive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This had the most primary expression, still
sweetly ripe, yes, opulent, blackcurrant and cassis flavours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The richness of this wine had it all over the
other two.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the tannin extraction and
structure the least refined.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Again, not
course, but still needing time to resolve.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Votes for the best were pretty much evenly split, though my choice was
for the Lafite.</div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was a special moment in time in my tasting and drinking
experience, as it was for all the other dinner guests.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We possibly could have made more of the
occasion, but this occasion was more than memorable, and made it a
stand-out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Of course we couldn’t add
others to the dinner list and share the bottles with more people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the line has to be drawn – on when to
open them and who is going to be there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Then don’t look back. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-71951106480120482462018-12-20T02:38:00.004-08:002018-12-20T02:38:48.815-08:00Barolo Bingo<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Chairman decided to bring a Barolo to the annual fine
dinner, but wondered if it would be the only Piedmont wine, as Burgundy rules
at the Nessie’s household.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He needed not
to have worried as most Pinot Noir fans are also Nebbiolo fans too.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His wine, a 2011 vintage was match by another
2011 Barolo – bingo!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ubHQu9UbAeLh52bcQ0mf6eRM31crtZQRwdfZEWN02k-ft3_qUXnOzc8cyTVgArCR9P3Cv1x4dEgzw-J-Vwbg_8tyfWfL0LuOtVDfG-e3zvgPypuPAGJxNtAzKFGQMSlWHspzsuL2WQl1/s1600/2018-12-15+21.10.34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ubHQu9UbAeLh52bcQ0mf6eRM31crtZQRwdfZEWN02k-ft3_qUXnOzc8cyTVgArCR9P3Cv1x4dEgzw-J-Vwbg_8tyfWfL0LuOtVDfG-e3zvgPypuPAGJxNtAzKFGQMSlWHspzsuL2WQl1/s320/2018-12-15+21.10.34.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The two Barolos were a contrast in style. The Chairman’s <b>2011 Vietti ‘Castiglione Falletto’ Barolo</b> was a study in the modern
style, fruit from a number of vineyards, and the wine aged 24 months in cask, whereas
the <b>2011 Cavallotto ‘Riserva Bricco
Bochis’ Barolo</b> was a hark back to tradition, a single vineyard wine, aged
4-5 years in Slavonian oak botti. The
Vietti was about elegance, bright and fresh fruit, and a spring in its step,
whereas the Cavallotto had depth and breadth, and a brooding disposition. Yet in some ways, the wines were more similar
than dissimilar. Surprisingly, the
tannins were tame, and both wines were quite accessible and enjoyable now. Most of us who have tried a selection of
Barolo are aware of how fiercely the extraction can be, and such wines need
time to mellow. The fruit characters
were in the same camp – dark red and black fruits, a touch of oak in the
Vietti, or so it seemed, with the more savoury big format flavours in the
Cavallotto, but not worlds apart as modern and traditional could be. Lovely rich fruit, more savoury and spicy
than floral and faded roses. Both
exhibited very fine-grained tannins, and the Vietti a tad more acidity, but
then the Cavallotto more density and blacker fruit.</div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_H_817X8R_k-H-W3ennHxPRcWf6HVuW3B603j0a3hY3b6hY10gCE8ZycGtSAGvU4ph1xAja0dJSGCI_iskZNfViIsen6spI4ya0YDo5Ws63wFdgPs8CP_aX3eckT1sqHH-nDw0zTz73CM/s1600/2018-12-15+21.11.45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_H_817X8R_k-H-W3ennHxPRcWf6HVuW3B603j0a3hY3b6hY10gCE8ZycGtSAGvU4ph1xAja0dJSGCI_iskZNfViIsen6spI4ya0YDo5Ws63wFdgPs8CP_aX3eckT1sqHH-nDw0zTz73CM/s320/2018-12-15+21.11.45.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
These were both delicious and when a vote was asked for a
favourite, it was pretty even, with maybe one or two of the dozen drinkers giving
the nod to the Vietti.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My vote went to
tradition. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-18631779023672891722018-12-19T12:43:00.001-08:002018-12-19T12:45:21.069-08:00Unfair Advantage<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The proceedings for dinner had been concluded.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the sparkling wines and most of the still
whites finished off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Nessie invited
us to sit down at the dinner table.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>JK
and his helpers had put the red wines into flights, as you do for a ‘serious’ wine
night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a difficult thing to do
sometimes, as it all depends on what people bring along to contribute.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unless there is a degree of co-ordination in
the planning, the wines turning up can be pretty diverse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you plan too much, you lose spontaneity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And different wines have different weight of
meaning to the owner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One that might
seem ‘ordinary’ to one person could be another’s pride and joy.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib1RFPl2CRhFalOBcuJFjh-r8Lj0_yViaMLif4MZLVxwYyH-cifB78mQseUZwKIMTINVeTGSji7fqlk9gl6o6vFFTAJd5qu9mK0avdwi47pkaq9bM5HoTw41x46DxU9up35KM1VrA9Hnmy/s1600/2018-12-15+20.50.34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib1RFPl2CRhFalOBcuJFjh-r8Lj0_yViaMLif4MZLVxwYyH-cifB78mQseUZwKIMTINVeTGSji7fqlk9gl6o6vFFTAJd5qu9mK0avdwi47pkaq9bM5HoTw41x46DxU9up35KM1VrA9Hnmy/s320/2018-12-15+20.50.34.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
So the first pairing were Pinot Noirs. The <b>2006
Wooing Tree Central Otago Pinot Noir</b> alongside a <b>2010 Rousseau Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru</b>. “Not fair!” you may cry out, but that’s what
was there. The Wooing Tree was dark hearted
and brooding, still, after so much time.
It had a dense core of ripe black fruits, with dark herbs and
minerals. Maybe a touch of thyme
too. Big on the palate, the tannins just
beginning to resolve. It still made a
statement. Maybe it knew what it was up
against. The burgundy from a grand cru site, from an impeccably great year,
from one of the best produces. The words
here were ‘aromatic finesse’. This has
never been Rousseau’s biggest, boldest, most striking, exotic or greatest
appellation, and it’s easy to dismiss its lightness when comparing it to
Chambertin. ‘Clos de Beze’ or ‘Clos St Jacques’. But those with a bit of experience love its
cool fragrance and beauty, and refined tannin structure. So it was with this 2010, great florality,
and dear I say it some confectionary lift – from whole, uncrushed berry
fermentation. Then nuances of herbs and
an array of red fruits. Yes, this is
Mazy-Chambertin class. An unfair
advantage to the burgundy – yes, but the Kiwi wine was not disgraced.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-20637684484624643122018-12-18T01:20:00.001-08:002018-12-18T01:20:28.128-08:00Blanc Melange<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is always interesting when wine lovers get together and
bring bottles to share over dinner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Somehow the red wines tend to get grouped together into instructive
flights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And of course bubblies tend to
get served first – but in no real particular order.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In a way it doesn’t matter with the sparklings,
whether one is Chardonnay-based or Pinot Noir based, and even vintages, as long
as they’re not decades apart, can be served in any order.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And strangely, the still white table wines
tend to get treated that way too, but they really do deserve being put into
order and instructive flights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sometimes
that is difficult, because the divergence between them all is a bit too much to
handle.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-_0cCLqWQT-jj0SY4fESiYBM0ccobfx3GMH9wTPYKxfUAc4ReNVpOQQ-CyvzEbXSV9Bdobx5SAkCbVAUWl6iWNOwYDAu-wIMP1p5VEd-h_E5NmfplwgJfGLtG-8bWYfSK6BwQMiX4GNVJ/s1600/2018-12-15+20.20.42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-_0cCLqWQT-jj0SY4fESiYBM0ccobfx3GMH9wTPYKxfUAc4ReNVpOQQ-CyvzEbXSV9Bdobx5SAkCbVAUWl6iWNOwYDAu-wIMP1p5VEd-h_E5NmfplwgJfGLtG-8bWYfSK6BwQMiX4GNVJ/s320/2018-12-15+20.20.42.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So it was at the Loch Ness’s house dinner. Three whites of particular pedigree appeared,
and it would have been difficult to group them together. There was a logical order, nevertheless. And’d here’s my take on it. First would be the <b>2014 Ch. Reynon Bordeaux Blanc</b>.
This is the brainchild of Denis Dubordieu, the vinous whizz of
Bordeaux. 16.5 ha of the 21 ha is
devoted to Sauvignon Blanc and a little Semillon, the rest to red. The wine is fruit focussed but sees
barrel-aging. Tasting it, the flavours
of green stonefruits and herbs, along with softer fruits come through, along
with a layering of oak. Some people don’t
see the oak as a major component, but I tend to. There’s freshness here, but also richness as
though there’s barrel-ferment. In any
circumstances, it’s delightfully refreshing with its richness, and showing an
array of fruits. Delicious!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then I’d have the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">2015
Wittmann Westhofen Morstein GG Riesling Trocken</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A Rheinhessen at 13.0% alc. and a reputation
to burn. This delivered in spades, with its rich and weighty palate with a
broad spectrum of savoury citrus fruits and minerals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Very fine nuances of earth, florals and honey
just add layers of complexity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It may
have the Rheinhessen softness, but there’s plenty of subtle acidity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The weight and fruit extract of this really
is quite amazing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After the precision of
Clemens Busch, the richness of Wittmann makes this label my second favourite in
the dry German stakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And no doubt for
SWMBO.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were some startled palates
at dinner, who had never tried Wittmann before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A revelation then, for them.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JpvOCNP4T1urm3IV3SZ-a4TXH-2mL9OYQrOOposG6HpTGn3HhQdN94q_BgeG4Z8QEFZtmy-MjuW5GmFeVmjZyN6kwL62sHaxlR6eCFqp4IKPzZHXmsflFPq0FxcGl7sq4nvLNnwjsfcW/s1600/2018-12-15+19.48.55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JpvOCNP4T1urm3IV3SZ-a4TXH-2mL9OYQrOOposG6HpTGn3HhQdN94q_BgeG4Z8QEFZtmy-MjuW5GmFeVmjZyN6kwL62sHaxlR6eCFqp4IKPzZHXmsflFPq0FxcGl7sq4nvLNnwjsfcW/s320/2018-12-15+19.48.55.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And to cap off the whites, an oldie, but super-goodie: a <b>1994 Leasingham Classic Clare Rhine
Riesling</b>. A cool year in the Clare
Valley makes the style closer to the Eden Valley for me. The back label says enjoy over the next 3
years. Well, this was 24 y.o., Bright lemon-gold, this was concentrated and
creamy, with gorgeous honied and floral-citrus flavours. Incredibly, no oxidation. Being very critical, it could be perceived to
be a tad drying out. I had no problem
with that. Certainly past the tertiary
stage and into beauty and lift rather than earthy and decrepit. A wine from the Bush-Blocker. How may more treasures like this does he
have?</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-30506266339710119972018-12-15T22:54:00.000-08:002018-12-15T22:56:21.421-08:00Medley of Bubbly<div class="MsoNormal">
‘Tis the season to be jolly.
And what makes the season jollier is sparkling wine. It started off innocuously, but built up to a
crescendo over the early evening before leading into the still whites and
reds. It’s a natural progression.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiftfpSiLYTnSEV0MCSDutkPstEtOIL1brLNyrD8k1GsU7tKlIXYSLP7M8VwOvaoh4OyCamPpwJyq2YCVSnEZaJWYsTP99m9DiG-IWmLBVRHSAD6NscS5FaTmMUN7cySvpQRDvsssCLJApm/s1600/2018-12-15+17.00.28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiftfpSiLYTnSEV0MCSDutkPstEtOIL1brLNyrD8k1GsU7tKlIXYSLP7M8VwOvaoh4OyCamPpwJyq2YCVSnEZaJWYsTP99m9DiG-IWmLBVRHSAD6NscS5FaTmMUN7cySvpQRDvsssCLJApm/s320/2018-12-15+17.00.28.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
First port of call was with A-Prentice and a lovely rosé Champagne shared with friends. A bottle doesn’t last long, especially when
the contents are delicious. The Chairman
was responsible for the <b>2009 Moet &
Chandon ‘Grand Vintage’ Ros</b><b>é Champagne</b>. A surprisingly strong orange-peach-pink
colour, with gorgeously integrated aromas and flavours of red fruits and
florals with the most subtle bready autolysis.
Absolutely spotless without any aldehydes which can be complexing, are
also a sign of funkiness and development in a degradation way. Soft and smooth but under it all a thread of
freshness that gave a piquant lift to make this beautifully poised.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgue_pk0gAJGCeR1QAKq80jNVkta8X0BxPMwycIFf-vUNSlQEReKzMQ5Wz6ItAWgm-_2yAND4P2JASvc5tS0CjJ5pRVRF3xLwrZrMH2B3rfbp0g04R7JPo3pYlGTKO_Ujw4LT23HOEIwPF7/s1600/2018-12-15+18.47.19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgue_pk0gAJGCeR1QAKq80jNVkta8X0BxPMwycIFf-vUNSlQEReKzMQ5Wz6ItAWgm-_2yAND4P2JASvc5tS0CjJ5pRVRF3xLwrZrMH2B3rfbp0g04R7JPo3pYlGTKO_Ujw4LT23HOEIwPF7/s320/2018-12-15+18.47.19.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
Then around to the dinner venue. As soon as we arrived, there was a glass of <b>NV Perrier-Jouet Champagne ‘Grand Brut’</b>. Best known for its elegance and freshness of
house style, this delivered it perfectly.
Bright and pale an colour, with up-front and near-forceful aromas of
fresh flotal, apple and citrus fruits, the autolysis was fresh and
brioche-like. The mouthfeel refreshingly
zesty and mouth-watering. The finest
phenolics, but all in great balance.
Another bottle that didn’t last long.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBBerw5tJPURfOkucXZ5wpqpVlPeGcchfLRvTjC4wNvMUFzYm7a8BvTWzXuuVq00u4yHQ_EugRf94gZlytJkRXJ2DtM7Kukp9brD4-A8VVXmHScoi-qnnfi38lQk_l8XqtkYiX3sId6ZZy/s1600/2018-12-15+19.22.33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBBerw5tJPURfOkucXZ5wpqpVlPeGcchfLRvTjC4wNvMUFzYm7a8BvTWzXuuVq00u4yHQ_EugRf94gZlytJkRXJ2DtM7Kukp9brD4-A8VVXmHScoi-qnnfi38lQk_l8XqtkYiX3sId6ZZy/s320/2018-12-15+19.22.33.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
The Lazza has as his bottle, one of his favourites, the <b>NV Taittinger Champagne ‘Folies de la
Marquetterie’ </b>a Chardonnay-dominant (what else could it be with Taittinger?)
single vineyard wine. Not quite as fresh
and zesty on nose and palate, maybe a little more subdued. But then a greater packed core and
density. This has a concentration and
gravitas that took the wine to another level.
Yes a step up. This wine never
fails to deliver the transition from accessible elegance to a depth and
detailed complexing hinted wine. A
bridging wine at its best.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Then finally something home-grown from the Big-O, a <b>2010 Seresin ‘Moana' Marlborough Methode
Traditionnelle Ros</b><b>é</b>. The Big-O had a hand in the making of this
wine. 76% Pinot Noir and 24% Chardonnay, with 3 years on lees, and no
dosage. More faded in colour, but
undeniable presence and a rounded and packed core with subtle layers of
flavours of yellow stonefruits and red florals.
This tastes richer than ‘no dosage’ showing the fruit quality. The autolysis quite integrated, and the
acidity softened. A detailed and quite
achiever, and one that delivered the goods, making one want to try more wine
and more food.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">What a lovely progression of wines to start the evening… </span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-33427287369477147642018-12-14T05:36:00.000-08:002018-12-14T05:36:08.471-08:00Real Orange Wine<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
In these contemporary times we are seeing the popularity of ‘orange’
wines, made by skin contact, usually longer than is normal in ‘conventional’
vinification.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One extracts greater
colour, usually orange, of course, but also there is increased phenolic
extraction, which heads towards the edge of acceptability in hardness and
bitterness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The best winemakers judge
this well, and the wines can be fabulous to drink, and they can be better wines
with food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But many can’t get the
balance and the wines can be horrible to drink, and sometimes harbour faults
from the minimal use of any intervention.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I’m introducing another subject here, altogether, but you get the point
of more extreme or ‘natural’ winemaking, I’m making.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHFUHtVEZn17gRE15rJGxuXUpbsZ9zI53t0y0U8lLLLCuuiJri3j80chodgln3P7FqHSivBIfBYdvrpqBD0VKaEAvnaMqmPgTFylU8ziVTEJw4X4oXvQP-L71eom90uDwtSy2kf_zt0dvg/s1600/2018-12-14+20.00.50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHFUHtVEZn17gRE15rJGxuXUpbsZ9zI53t0y0U8lLLLCuuiJri3j80chodgln3P7FqHSivBIfBYdvrpqBD0VKaEAvnaMqmPgTFylU8ziVTEJw4X4oXvQP-L71eom90uDwtSy2kf_zt0dvg/s320/2018-12-14+20.00.50.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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We had a treat as delivered for dinner by Mo the Political
Gal this evening – a true ‘orange’ wine.
The <b>2001 Dirler Alsace Riesling ‘Belzbrunnen’</b>
was a fully-aged and mature example. The
colour was deep orange with golden hues.
The bouquet was all about citrus (orange) fruit and mead like
honey. It had gone past the toast and kero
tertiary stage and showed complex hints of nuttiness, but no real oxidation. Then on palate, lusciously off-dry to
taste. The Mentor and SWMBO suggested
botrytis, but I didn’t find it musky. It
was fully-developed fruit flavours knife-edge between citrus and nuts. Beautifully soft, rounded and luscious, with no
drying out at all. The wine got richer
with time in the glass. A conventional
wine turned orange, and naturally over the course of time from bottle-age. Maybe this is the way to do it?</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-68524060427731641372018-12-04T19:01:00.000-08:002018-12-04T19:02:38.338-08:00Familiarity and Never Contempt<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The saying is that “familiarity breeds contempt” but SWMBO
and I can’t understand that when it comes to the gorgeous Mosel wines of
Clemens Busch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We’ve tended to have our
favourites, the GG dry Rieslings showing the grey, blue and red slate of the
Pundericher Marienberg site, our favourite being the Red Slate ‘Rothenpfad’
bottling, the vines ungrafted, from <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>only
1 ha, and aged around 85 y.o.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other
favourite is the fruit-sweet Spatlese Gold Kap which is closer to an
Auslese.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>SWMBO and I could sip on these
until the cows came home and went to bed!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rNjSqcKMbX2ro7QgyP2g7bUZUkiviQmQ8jZJBMKuOqMOTAPAbguOgo6WzIAISxvw-ZQKU0H71tPiiT_gl1DdIDTFsBfibowLPgp8E8kBAKPyrY-AXejP0G4fWVP11qM2nFawXmlQIF55/s1600/2018-12-04+21.46.17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rNjSqcKMbX2ro7QgyP2g7bUZUkiviQmQ8jZJBMKuOqMOTAPAbguOgo6WzIAISxvw-ZQKU0H71tPiiT_gl1DdIDTFsBfibowLPgp8E8kBAKPyrY-AXejP0G4fWVP11qM2nFawXmlQIF55/s320/2018-12-04+21.46.17.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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We were happy to receive the I-Spy Man, especially as he
cooks us a meal. Tonight it was chicken
with a mild curry sauce on a bead of rice with other accompaniments to make it
all a ‘complete' meal. The <b>2015 Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienberg
Riesling GG ‘Rothenpfad’</b> was duly chilled and served, just ahead of the
food, so we could appreciate its finer nuances.
And nuances aplenty it had.
A magical combination of ethereal exotic florals and a full array of
richer spicy, earthy flavours. All the
while, clearly Riesling with its finesse and acid structure, but also the soils
being laced with iron, giving the spice.
The juxtaposition always flowing one way, then the other. The wine held your attention, and
respect. How could one find contempt
here? Then as with time in glass,
extremely rich and sating, but remaining refreshingly poised. Glorious wine, with beauty and gravitas. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9J4lr5GS-xyChnIORjUe8t2aYuieTF4WFkR9NNhFOf7WSWDcIW0qdoHm_ecEUmCgXCbi1zQGl7J1-lAM_K8337ZhfWY7a8K6YlhjDVxb2EInPIRmWdJIXvYOKAim0AMams_MdTaMzdKWD/s1600/2018-12-04+21.46.48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9J4lr5GS-xyChnIORjUe8t2aYuieTF4WFkR9NNhFOf7WSWDcIW0qdoHm_ecEUmCgXCbi1zQGl7J1-lAM_K8337ZhfWY7a8K6YlhjDVxb2EInPIRmWdJIXvYOKAim0AMams_MdTaMzdKWD/s320/2018-12-04+21.46.48.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-33393636086547809542018-12-03T09:16:00.000-08:002018-12-03T09:16:02.470-08:00Asking the Asking Price<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
When the ever-reliable and premium Hawke’s Bay wine producer
Mills Reef (winery based in Tauranga) announced the release of their new
super-icon range called ‘Arthur Edmund’, at a retail price of $350.00 per
bottle, I was shocked. Up until now, the
super-premium ‘Elspeth’ range of wines were priced at $50.00 per bottle. I was so surprised that I dialled up the
general manager of the company to ask about the asking price for the new wines,
which he instantly understood from my tone that I didn’t approve.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
In retrospect, I shouldn’t have been shocked, or even mildly
surprised. SWMBO and I often taste and
drink wines that cost far more than this.
And often older wines which you can’t put a value on in reality. And we have opened these wines willingly, or
shared them when opened by others, acknowledging their cost with barely a nod –
but then, all parties are aware of the cost of the bottle – but we don’t make
too much of a deal about it. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In explaining Mills Reef’s situation, he pointed out that
these were the very best wines they could make.
A project starting in the vineyard a decade ago, identifying the best
vines, from the best rows from the best plants in the best sites in the
Gimblett Gravels. Then the once-in-a-lifetime
2013 Hawke’s Bay came along. It was the
right time to make their ultra-Cabernet/Merlot blend and Syrah wines. Of course, the lowest yields, the most sensitive
handling, careful monitoring, minimal movement, but good time in 100% new oak,
because the fruity was so rich.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then came the truth.
The ‘Elspeth’ wines – next tier down now – like many other New Zealand
wines of the same standard had proven themselves to sit comfortably among the
very best Bordeaux and Rhone wines, and with comparable wines from other
countries in many, many ‘blind’ tastings around the world, as judged by the
best professionals. And these wines often
were 10-20 times the price! There are a
number of other New Zealand reds that ask the high price, if not more than the
$350.00 per bottle here. The best New
Zealand wines are seriously undervalued in a global perspective. And it takes a few bold producers to remind
the consumer this is the case, and set the higher standard. Of course, in setting the standard, one must
not make these wines become luxury goods and commodities. They are still wines to be drunk and enjoyed.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0z1oK_3RZAhWsj9CHPsLzhnsGAdlXJNAnO-e-17eyHHVqSQah20SKKmnWB-sfmPQzm3NMs2oNJAVsooYTZQvOlTs6gRl9eoh4661D3I828ETIfVHFI8TwrGSFyfp-kgCIegtoRE4RhMcU/s1600/2018-11-28+04.22.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0z1oK_3RZAhWsj9CHPsLzhnsGAdlXJNAnO-e-17eyHHVqSQah20SKKmnWB-sfmPQzm3NMs2oNJAVsooYTZQvOlTs6gRl9eoh4661D3I828ETIfVHFI8TwrGSFyfp-kgCIegtoRE4RhMcU/s320/2018-11-28+04.22.51.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">What did they taste like?</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">The </span><b style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">2013 Mills Reef ‘Arthur Edmund’ Gimblett
Gravels Cabernet/Merlot</b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> – was black as black with a beautifully sweet and
rich, ripe core of black fruits.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">No
over-ripeness, but perfectly judged picking.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">
</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Superbly refined tannins, and plenty of them, and great acid vitality.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Seamless in other ways, and great sustained
finish.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Not a foot out of place, and 15-20
years ahead of it if required, though I’d drink it at 10 years.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">And the </span><b style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">2013
Mills Reef ‘Arthur Edmund’ Gimblett Gravels Syrah</b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Black-red, and super luscious and layers of
sweet, ripe black and dark-red fruits, with exotic spices and florals, and
black pepper.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Again, wonderful tannin
structure, but the fruit sweetness ameliorating the textures to a
lusciousness.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Deceptively easy to drink,
say 10-15 years plus.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">But I’d start
about 6-7 years on.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">Both wines unveiling
the classical ‘iron-earth’ character in the glass and next day.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">These wines show place, time, and the sensitive
hand of men.</span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-62367183528495566712018-11-29T03:25:00.001-08:002018-11-29T03:26:47.941-08:00Not Pinot Noir As We Know It<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
A few months ago, the Good Doctor showed SWMBO and I a
German Pinot Noir from Chat Sauvage in the Rheingau.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A quality focussed, but new producer who has
Burgundy as the model, planting Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay) in some famous sites.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wine was the 2012 Lorcher Schlossberg
Pinot Noir 2012.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a revelation in
that it was still youthful and sweetly rich, but showed complexing nuances that
fine Burgundy can attain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were
impressed.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo4A0uIp6ys2mX74dtciQUF4IVzf1aFzy6I3dCm-vTpedMZtI9wGnOw2UNlcvcTmJXjDuSLAmVf6uLNXpyI-BA_WN5-9I3gveD2IKswgyQnr30DdBzZZV4806SR-TGzRR4qpkUUjQTXb7A/s1600/2018-11-28+04.21.45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo4A0uIp6ys2mX74dtciQUF4IVzf1aFzy6I3dCm-vTpedMZtI9wGnOw2UNlcvcTmJXjDuSLAmVf6uLNXpyI-BA_WN5-9I3gveD2IKswgyQnr30DdBzZZV4806SR-TGzRR4qpkUUjQTXb7A/s320/2018-11-28+04.21.45.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
So in our next order, we thought we’d try the <b>2013 Chat Sauvage Assmannhausen Hollenberg
Pinot Noir</b>, from a village and site that’s pretty highly rated and with
Chat Sauvage’s oldest plantings sited there.
We had The Grove Men in town visiting, so it seemed the ideal time to
open it. Well, it was a different beast
altogether. Much younger and dis-jointed
in componentry, the fruit somewhat raw and yet to settle. The tannin and acid stood out. It was not really a pleasant drink on
opening. Suddenly, our impressions of
German Pinot Noir were not what they had built up to be. The goal posts had changed. But time seems to fix most things, and a
couple of hours down the track came the tell-tale red berry fruit and floral
aromas and flavours. Yes Pinot Noir, but
different again from the model. SWMBO
and I struggled through the bottle, not really caring for it, But by two days
later, it was deep and sweet, the tannins and acid had become part of the
whole. It was impressive wine too. The Good Doctor knows his vinous medicines.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOUfgw2_M3SSs760q_J-Ce_OD84B4SMOaDFTO6wnNBYX3nGaKetR7hTFAMSAhGtr0fCDkckEXGzfSHAqS4obeDfBKc0KejHdWtnfDq4lJ7ddWu_9ATivNo-s51gHOwiV6jsi0GuxtraTMB/s1600/2018-11-28+04.21.57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOUfgw2_M3SSs760q_J-Ce_OD84B4SMOaDFTO6wnNBYX3nGaKetR7hTFAMSAhGtr0fCDkckEXGzfSHAqS4obeDfBKc0KejHdWtnfDq4lJ7ddWu_9ATivNo-s51gHOwiV6jsi0GuxtraTMB/s320/2018-11-28+04.21.57.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-43796600944816520732018-11-27T07:17:00.001-08:002018-11-27T07:17:29.242-08:00Familiarity<div class="MsoNormal">
One of our favourite Mosel winegrowers is Clemens Busch, who
from his holdings in the Pundericher Marienberg vineyard makes a stunning selection
of wines that show off the differences between Grey, Red and Blue slate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>SWMBO and I tend to prefer the GG ‘Rothenpfad’
bottling for its richer and more exotic character.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But we are so focussed on these top-end wines that we often
forget that Clemens Busch also makes a good number of the more ‘fruit-sweet’
pradikat wines. Our favourite of these is of course the ‘Gold Kap’ Spatlese,
which really borders on Auslese in style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>However, the Punk Doctor had available some of the regular Kabinett –
which we had not tried before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So our
order included a couple of bottles to see how they fared.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3g-6CHHsZ9kzw68LBAq-HTdvKH5KeK0lF-qwHZ8ZSmTvIE-j3NawT_Kd0uvMBPke4juLDnz-djv-8dNoWiERbfGk2NqJc2UTWXwyrQK_oyPZ7MDmA8Sv3qkvFUTnV77No79TnRBJysOC9/s1600/2018-11-27+18.16.28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3g-6CHHsZ9kzw68LBAq-HTdvKH5KeK0lF-qwHZ8ZSmTvIE-j3NawT_Kd0uvMBPke4juLDnz-djv-8dNoWiERbfGk2NqJc2UTWXwyrQK_oyPZ7MDmA8Sv3qkvFUTnV77No79TnRBJysOC9/s320/2018-11-27+18.16.28.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
We had a lovely visit with the Grove Men, so that was an
occasion to open the <b>2017 Clemens Busch
Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Kabinett</b>.
A lowly and deliciously accessible 7.5% alc., this had a nose that
showed a bit too much sulphur – not in a bad way, but in a J.J. Prum way that
you know it would blow off or integrate – in this case, a couple of hours would
help. But rich and sweetly luscious on
the palate. Lovely fruitiness with honey
and slatey mineral flavours. Subtle
phenolic textures which really combined with the sugar to make it smooth and
seamless, plus that piquant acidity.
Sure, the sulphur was there, but it was only a part of the wine. We all drank it with a smile. They say familiarity breeds contempt. Not here.
</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-1486565525855853292018-11-23T21:03:00.000-08:002018-11-23T21:03:10.913-08:00Sold into Slavery<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Most of us believe that slavery was a problem of the past, but
the reality is that there are 25 to over 48 million humans (depending on your
sources) trafficked into slavery in these modern times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That works out about a person become a slave
every 27 seconds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are agencies
that rescue these people, but the survivors need assistance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They need counselling, education and the teaching
of a trade, as well as legal assistance to testify against the perpetrators.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pete and Alanna Chapman of the family that own the Terrace
Edge vineyard in North Canterbury have decided to do something positive about
the issue with their own brand of ingenuity and the resources they have –
grapes – to make good wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So they set
up ’27 Seconds’ a wine selection from which 100% of the profits go to the
slavery survivors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In undertaking this
project, Pete and Alanna were stunned by the assistance and generosity of the
wine industry. The grapes, picking, winemaking, screwcaps, label design and
production and marketing was donated or at least heavily discounted.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUN6fdRii31RB8iEaepg2WvMsAT__jC8j0pe82emEFawxEJTkWqNTHpFQvOX2hrcRp4HDIoX68Z6pwfoLYiwsJ8PGGVotaU0fPPo7oYzMiApGAn2-CGdFQPFNmBtL4hcPLJEhsCsdnmUFL/s1600/2018-11-23+23.44.54.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUN6fdRii31RB8iEaepg2WvMsAT__jC8j0pe82emEFawxEJTkWqNTHpFQvOX2hrcRp4HDIoX68Z6pwfoLYiwsJ8PGGVotaU0fPPo7oYzMiApGAn2-CGdFQPFNmBtL4hcPLJEhsCsdnmUFL/s320/2018-11-23+23.44.54.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
Most of the fruit came from the Terrace Edge family vineyard
and the winemaking was at the Muddy Water facility. The second release of <b>27 Seconds</b> wines
comprises a dry <b>Rosé
2018</b> with savoury strawberry and quince flavours on a mouthwatering palate, a
taut and slender, but intense passionfruity and gooseberry fruited <b>Sauvignon
Blanc 2018</b>, plus a red cherry-berry and nutty-oaked <b>Pinot Noir 2017</b> with very
fine structure. I rate them all 4-stars,
and know they’re a good drink. You can
help the cause by buying them from <a href="http://www.27seconds.co.nz/">www.27seconds.co.nz</a> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-88522382016078327752018-11-22T20:41:00.001-08:002018-11-24T12:54:41.483-08:00All that Glitters<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
One of the most stunning presentations I have come across
for a wine is that of the new <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Number 1
Family Estate ‘Cuvee Adele’ Marlborough Methode Traditionnelle 2013</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wine was first made with the 2009 vintage
and released in 2012 to celebrate Adele Le Brun’s 60<sup>th</sup>
birthday.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wine bottle was dark, near
black-green in colour and encrusted with Swarovski crystals, flowing around a
capital letter ‘A’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The effect was
magical, glittering <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and classy.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi042rQtoYVTZNFw5KMEFOtksyHFuVIoDBfFy4ytjWr1LDIxUjsehlp5ZOENOYx08IeQAOiBg0-UDPXmMKHitxYh2VrIErM39iEbcjDhd0N05diKybbHtXLbi-W0F9TOXqeq08Hlgrlh7an/s1600/2018-11-22+05.02.00.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi042rQtoYVTZNFw5KMEFOtksyHFuVIoDBfFy4ytjWr1LDIxUjsehlp5ZOENOYx08IeQAOiBg0-UDPXmMKHitxYh2VrIErM39iEbcjDhd0N05diKybbHtXLbi-W0F9TOXqeq08Hlgrlh7an/s320/2018-11-22+05.02.00.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For the 2013 vintage release, the Le Bruns have gone one
further.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bottle with the encrusted
crystals ar the same as with the 2009, but the wine comes in a black cardboard-based
box.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When you open the box, a set of nine small lights located out of view at the top of the box comes on, illuminating
the crystals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Simply stunning and
amazing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And what is the wine like?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It’s a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, spending 3 years on
lees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As you might guess, it’s very
Blanc de Blancs with white stonefruts and florals, and purity of bready-yeasty
flavours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No aldehydic complexities,
just finesse and elegance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Very
feminine, of course, and very much like Adele Le Brun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-43587115163353605712018-11-01T03:39:00.001-07:002018-11-01T03:39:35.782-07:00Homage to Harmony<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s the most natural thing to say that the biggest, boldest
and most flavoursome wine is best.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Power
is sought-after, and lightness somewhat frowned upon as being weak and
sub-standard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And there’s some truth to
this, as the wines with the most impact have been made from the most
flavoursome and ripest grapes, had as much goodness taken out of the berries
and turned into wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then these wines
may have the most inputs to match the fruit intensity and extract.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Such wines sometimes deserve to be put on a pedestal
– and revered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But also along with it is
the fact that these wines are made to be shared among many people, as a small
glass will suffice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A large glass can be
a bit of work to finish, and a bottle may need to be consumed over the course
of more than one day.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Of course, lighter and lesser wines are easier to
drink.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is less challenge, as the
flavours are less forceful and mouthfilling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The structure is undemanding, and there’s nothing to hinder you drinking
it easily.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hang-on here….it sounds like
the latter approach is the way to enjoy drinking a wine?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mind you, weak wine doesn’t satisfy the
palate and senses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So it must be in the
middle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The best wines have great
flavour and structure, are full of character, but smooth and easy enough to
enjoy without hindrance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To get to that
point is not easy….it takes a master winegrower to judge that balance to make
such a wine.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyFaeeEldh3wtdbf4dTmdxiyFs5VjNolt7l7-IuY-hjLeNOaZKkPZ3JBOII8GHXcWqnE9VduG3q2RGKgEhvZipOJ5m9QHpwHHdALJEGU_6S8E5qyN5mC_NgLN0yLDsrkpWrKWlEyCvUBDP/s1600/2018-11-01+23.15.32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyFaeeEldh3wtdbf4dTmdxiyFs5VjNolt7l7-IuY-hjLeNOaZKkPZ3JBOII8GHXcWqnE9VduG3q2RGKgEhvZipOJ5m9QHpwHHdALJEGU_6S8E5qyN5mC_NgLN0yLDsrkpWrKWlEyCvUBDP/s320/2018-11-01+23.15.32.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
And the <b>2016 Trinity ‘Homage’
Hawke’s Bay Syrah</b> is one such wine,
Beautifully easy to sip and drink.
The range of aromas and flavours are perfect expressions of the grape
and place – and of vintage. The wine is
satisfying and almost sating, but requiring another glass to check. A full array of detail to draw you one way,
then another, and all this accumulating to make something greater than its
parts (that’s my psychology training).
There is beauty and true harmony.
A great wine for the soul indeed.
Wondrous enough to evoke a tear of pleasure!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The wine has a story.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Inspired by Gerard Jaboulet of the Rhone and his ‘La Chapelle’
Hermitage, Trinity Hill’s founding winemaker John Hancock created this wine
firstly in 2002 as a tribute to Gerard who passed away at the too-young age of
55 years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Made from the MS Syrah clone
which traces its history back to James Busby, plus vines from cuttings that
Gerard gave to John as a gift.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Picked at
perfect ripeness to show fruit and elegance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Enough subtle inputs such as whole bunch and oaking to add layers of interest.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And super judgement of extraction and
barrel-aging.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>John Handcock, Warren
Gibson, Damian Fischer and team have made the most delicious wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It isn’t the most powerful or striking ‘Homage’,
but it’s the most drinkable and enjoyable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>What could be more perfect than that?<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-89592485587112735272018-10-28T04:08:00.001-07:002018-10-28T04:08:12.335-07:00Fine and Funky<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tastes change.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And
yet they don’t.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mainstream Marlborough
Sauvignon Blanc has edged its way from green and grassy – what the Brits adored
in the 1980s – to something riper, often with passionfruit, more textured and detailed,
with richness and length being desirable, and without the searing acidity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lesser examples of the Loire were the
benchmarks for the early Marlborough models, and we in New Zealand could
achieve it easily, as we hadn’t learned about pushing ripeness, crop loading
and balance.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But in the Loire there were those who took Sauvignon Blanc
very seriously.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Who can frRget Didier
Dageneau with his bottlings with oak and lees inputs, higher concentration and
length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These cost a bomb to buy and try,
but they were revelations to sophistication and minerality, as well as
expressions of terroir.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsJVorsLcnzQufVF9MGyNOTQuyA2gAXViW2iZkj1SdyH-_7hK3qJUYvKXLvxOxVkAmGm0t0XRD5OgTA4JvWW8IaIY7VDr5NdCIOT8xfq14ltmqbubiSHn-S8mbkHrI29QZgTpMM0SF_2B5/s1600/2018-10-28+23.51.06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsJVorsLcnzQufVF9MGyNOTQuyA2gAXViW2iZkj1SdyH-_7hK3qJUYvKXLvxOxVkAmGm0t0XRD5OgTA4JvWW8IaIY7VDr5NdCIOT8xfq14ltmqbubiSHn-S8mbkHrI29QZgTpMM0SF_2B5/s320/2018-10-28+23.51.06.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
In a way, nothing has changed as we have the likes of James
Healy and Ivan Sutherland of Dog Point in the Southern Valley district of
Marlborough.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What they have done, as
exampled by the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">2016 Dog Point ‘Section
94’ Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc</b> may seem novel, ground-breaking and the
direction forward for Marlborough to go, if the region is to show that it is
more than a one-trick pony. But what
they’ve done is realise the like of Dageneau had the right approach for
complexity and expression. Fruit ripened
to the perfect place, barrel-fermentation with solids by indigenous yeasts, and
lees contact galore. To those more used
to mainstream, these are firm, taut, funk anf gunflinty. Nothing like what Sauvignon should be. To those with a broader palate experience,
you have detail, finesse, intricacy, funky layers of complexity adding to the
fruit. Minerality for sure, and who
knows, expression of place? </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-37859121778268144122018-10-21T03:09:00.002-07:002018-10-21T03:09:34.825-07:00Preserving Poise<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
There’s a clear definition between the higher altitude,
cooler Eden Valley hills and the warmer Barossa Valley floor, the former
producing more elegant and aromatic wines with intensity and freshness – suited
to white varieties, and the latter producing full, rich weighty wines with
breadth and depth – suited to red wines especially.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And that’s generally the case with the wines
that come from the ‘Barossa’ appellation.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are a number of producers who accentuated the
differences between the two sub-regions, rather than homogenise the two by
blending.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Earlier this year, I came
across the 2016 Sons of Eden ‘Eurus’ Eden Valley Cabernet Sauvignon which went
the other way and pushed the ripeness limits of the Eden Valley fruit such that
it was not showing the classic blackcurrant and cassis fruit, but more the
blackberry and boysenberry fruit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
magnificent wine it was, but atypical.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrwgSm5UzdZqIHrKOahONfQqhKSm0-D8HVLV32KpfR0KoFdti2QeCV86Oi0c1jYc-WMQXLiOy30K5x3KemSBJJUXbGm3BtRys27STKLm5IS-SNW65PlI-EItFZi2PydwQAr_8bxkxLdDff/s1600/2018-10-21+16.21.22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrwgSm5UzdZqIHrKOahONfQqhKSm0-D8HVLV32KpfR0KoFdti2QeCV86Oi0c1jYc-WMQXLiOy30K5x3KemSBJJUXbGm3BtRys27STKLm5IS-SNW65PlI-EItFZi2PydwQAr_8bxkxLdDff/s320/2018-10-21+16.21.22.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
Thorn-Clarke is one of those grower-producers who celebrate
and seek to express the differences of the two sub-regions. They have a tier called ‘Eden Trail’ which
has Eden Valley-fruited wine only with no Barossa Valley fruit involved. The classic wine representing Eden Valley
from Thorn-Clarke would have to be the <b>2018
Thorn-Clarke ‘Eden Trail’ Eden Valley Riesling</b>. Beautifully pristine but with an array of
fragrances of florals and citrus fruits – quite exotic, but all the while
maintaining great acidity. The acidity
is very soft, but clearly low pH with its beautiful textures to get such
freshness and electricity. But they’ve
had to work to preserving the poise in their <b>2017 Thorn-Clarke ‘Eden Trail’ Eden Valley Chardonnay</b>. From a naturally cooler growing season, the
vintage has given an advantage on freshness and slightly elevated acidity. But the winemaking team fermented part in
barrel and part in tank to add to the fresh and steely nature of the wine. Don’t worry, it’s still full-on Chardonnay,
with nutty and toasty oak. The creamy
barrel-ferment is perfectly cut by the acidity.
They’ve preserved the Eden Valley poise here. A great wine with grilled and roasted
seafood, I reckon. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-73407261562507361772018-10-20T10:28:00.001-07:002018-10-20T10:28:36.938-07:00Big Bottle Glory<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Real Mr Parker put on an extravaganza from his wine
collecting years that number well into three decades.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And SWMBO and I were privileged to be
invited.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a vertical tasting of
Chapoutier’s ‘Le Pavillon’ Ermitage, from 2013 way back to Michel and Marc
Chapoutier’s 1989 inaugural release.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve
noted about this event elsewhere, and my picks of the range were the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>refined and still vital 1991, the rich and
poised 2010 and the vigorous 2005.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But there was one bottle that stood out for all the right
reasons, but eclipsed by the three vintages mentioned above.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That was the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">1990 Chapoutier ‘Le Pavillon’ Ermitage</b> in a <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">1.5 Litre</b> magnum bottle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
think I still have one of these tucked away in the depths of the cellar, so it
was fascinating to try Mr Parker’s bottle before broaching mine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The vintage 1990 was one of a great trio in
the Northern Rhone, of 1989, 1990 and 1991.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>And each year had its advocates.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The fact that Chapoutier bottled the 1990 in magnum suggests they
thought that vintage special.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmQYV3lovcvkRpTxabvT1Bia0pLz50BNNQOBkLUHtenO6Mig7zaa2bQmka8LRTRcCOIa7C0-N8TH4ylT-pk1m4kKRzT1N5WdJF7BoklLMFpRfNLCQUUaK29GYpR-m93iwgrwivKiRJT26v/s1600/2018-10-06+13.00.50-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="710" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmQYV3lovcvkRpTxabvT1Bia0pLz50BNNQOBkLUHtenO6Mig7zaa2bQmka8LRTRcCOIa7C0-N8TH4ylT-pk1m4kKRzT1N5WdJF7BoklLMFpRfNLCQUUaK29GYpR-m93iwgrwivKiRJT26v/s320/2018-10-06+13.00.50-1.jpg" width="141" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
When it came time to tasting this wine, we had had the
benefit of trying all the latter years, so we were accustomed to the style and
progression. ‘Le Pavillon’ is not your ‘normal’
Hermitage. Coming from select parcels of
‘Les Bessards’, it is in the riper, more savoury and structured style. It isn’t primary floral and peppery, and the
aromatics emerge with bottle-age, along with layers of undergrowth and earthy
complexity. Yet behind it all is an
opulence that its sibling ‘L’Ermite’ that some rate higher doesn’t have.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This bottle showed full mature garnet colour with brick –
but it still had depth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bouquet was
the glory of the wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Voluminous and
layered, near ethereal with its detail, but with a depth and heart that just
contributed more interest with aeration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There were lovely tertiary development complexities, and still with
fruit to show.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But there were some savoury,
decrepit nuances you’d expect, giving a more complete picture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On palate, still sweet and luscious, and
wonderfully integrated, but the fruitiness, secondary and tertiary notes, plus
tannin and acid still obvious and with time to come together further.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s drinking at its maturity plateau now,
but there’s no hurry for another decade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Than you Mr Parker. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-92117060034016491852018-10-06T14:26:00.001-07:002018-10-06T14:26:23.855-07:00A Little Ripper<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Most of us strive to drink the best we can under our
circumstances.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some wine lovers
subscribe to the practice of buying and drinking slightly more that we can
really afford to!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both SWMBO and I are
guilty of it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sometimes you’ve just got
to indulge yourselves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But occasionally,
something just pops up to take that monetary pressure off – a really delicious
wine that is very affordable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We go to
our local wine merchants to get such bargains, as it’s their job and joy
finding such gems.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One such vinous wonder came in front of us just
recently.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">2018 Yalumba ‘Y Series’’ South Australia Viognier</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now this was a wonder variety over the past
few years, but has lost popularity, maybe because Chardonnay has come back, and
there’s a plethora of new and innovative varieties coming on the scene.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The variety nearly became extinct after WW2,
but it got revived by a handful of far-sighted growers in Condrieu – gotta love
those Guigal people!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Aussies have
picked up on the style of Viognier too, with Yalumba at the fore, and they may
have the southern hemisphere’s largest plantings and output.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They make a super pure but complex-aging top
cuvee ‘The Virgilius’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then they have
the ‘Eden Valley’ tier, with a contemporary ‘Organic’ Viognier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The most accessible one in price is their ‘Y
Series’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In N.Z. it sells at an
unbelievable $16.95.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOkDPRwGmKmiSE0QUJ_wezeOAFhWFqy24FU5KtXumYg4ddzAVaU_KZzhf7YuXeKWwQx_qr2ZmngmP9gDyp5Ju7a5xtXUu9vw1obYUTPSpPYDXiG2L96V6fc18MuiEeWqi8ZgqntDX2KZVk/s1600/2018-10-06+10.07.02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOkDPRwGmKmiSE0QUJ_wezeOAFhWFqy24FU5KtXumYg4ddzAVaU_KZzhf7YuXeKWwQx_qr2ZmngmP9gDyp5Ju7a5xtXUu9vw1obYUTPSpPYDXiG2L96V6fc18MuiEeWqi8ZgqntDX2KZVk/s320/2018-10-06+10.07.02.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
The wine is super fresh, crisp and pure. Clear-cut varietal expression with exotic
stonefruits and florals, and on the palate unusually brisk, refreshing acidity,
but also the tell-tale richness and hint of unctuousness. It isn’t going to be complex or sophisticated
by any means, but this is just so delicious drinking. It’s a little ripper. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-801560339942397212018-09-26T18:05:00.000-07:002018-09-26T18:05:06.101-07:00Full House<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The high profile Craggy Range winery in Hawke’s Bay has its
‘Prestige Collection’ as its flagship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The wines were first launched with the 2001 vintage at the winery
opening, and they were sensational at the time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The range consisted of the ‘Les Beaux Cailloux’ Chardonnay, ‘Le Sol’
Syrah, ‘Sophia’ Merlot-based blend and ‘The Quarry’ Cabernet Sauvignon
predominant wine – all from their Gimblett Gravels vineyards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you needed to make a statement of your
arrival on the scene, this was the way to do it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then later came the ‘Aroha’ Pinot Noir from
the company’s vineyards in Te Muna Road in Martinborough, the first being the
2006 vintage.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For several years, this diverse selection of wines was
released as a group, and they were looked forward to every year by keen
enthusiasts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But viticulture and
vintages being what they are, there’s always a fly in the ointment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Chardonnay vines were virussed,
necessitating them being pulled up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So
no ’Les Beaux Cailloux’ from 2011.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also,
the growing seasons weren’t hot enough for a number of years, so no The Quarry
since 2011.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was no ‘Aroha’ in
2010.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ‘Prestige Collection’ looked a
bit skimpy’ from then, but true wine lovers knew it was to protect the brand,
as well as the consumer.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKeFdB3MYZ2lcIK5AGxY-4Lh7Fq7PAq1TafKCQpc9PqDJHnS3HLmXdKHpxzA9b-XKn0YY5clO7bget6wpJWUWlTvnXRaeEkua177V53_xZxr3rqvVnFATe-xQ0NK-QOrB4uHh-YpNyORHj/s1600/2018-09-12+10.30.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKeFdB3MYZ2lcIK5AGxY-4Lh7Fq7PAq1TafKCQpc9PqDJHnS3HLmXdKHpxzA9b-XKn0YY5clO7bget6wpJWUWlTvnXRaeEkua177V53_xZxr3rqvVnFATe-xQ0NK-QOrB4uHh-YpNyORHj/s320/2018-09-12+10.30.29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
Come this year, and the 2016 vintages of the ‘Prestige
Collection’, and we have a full house!
And the wines are delicious. The
overall style is of greater elegance, something that Craggy Range have wanted
to achieve after the blockbusters of the past.
Vintage 2016 had a hand to play too, especially with the Gimblett
Gravels wines. A very cool and wet start
to the growing season worried growers – would the fruit get ripe? Then a super hot autumn meant the ripeness
caught up. I can’t help that think the
cooler start have given these wines elegance.
The <b>2016 ‘Les Beaux Cailloux’
Chardonnay Gimblett Gravels</b> is a concentrated wine, more in thenutty
stonefruit spectrum, rather than sweet or gunflinty. The <b>2016
‘Le Sol’ Syrah Gimblett Gravels</b> is a beauty with exotic spices and
freshness. The <b>2016 ‘Sophia’ Gimblett Gravels</b> is dense and rich plums, classical
Merlot, showing oak inputs. And the <b>2016 ‘The Quarry’ Gimblett Gravels</b> has
clarity of Cabernet Sauvignon fruit with wonderful intensity.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2016 was an outstanding, even growing season in
Martinborough, and the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">2016 ‘Aroha’ Te Muna
Road Martinborough Pinot Noir </b>reflects this with its ripeness, and more
importantly its completeness in the way it is constructed and how it flows
across the palate. Overall, this is a great release and worthy of the
excitement around it.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-49074422153901753852018-09-23T02:19:00.003-07:002018-09-23T02:19:49.834-07:00Going Wild<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
One of most trusted commercial brands on the shelves is ‘Stoneleigh’
from Marlborough.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Life started out
around three decades ago when it was a premium brand for Corbans Wines,
Stoneleigh being a special iteration of the Rapaura district, which yielded
Sauvignon Blanc with the classic punchy passionfruity thiol character.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Stoneleigh range grew to incorporate
other varieties, of which Riesling was my favourite. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A big change came with the purchase of Corbans
by its major competitor Montana in 2000, but the Stoneleigh label was retained
due to its strength.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That continues
today, with Stoneleigh as a special Marlborough brand, still showcasing the
Rapaura style.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Over time, the variations of Stoneleigh wine have grown to
fill the niches in the market, with the introduction of Pinot Gris and Ros<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">é</span>, and even Sparkling
Sauvignon Blanc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a low-alcohol
tier, then the more up-market ‘Latitude’ and ‘Rapaura Series’ levels, the
latter being the flagship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One thing
that long-time winemaker Jamie Marfell, heading the team since 2002 has done is
ensure that the wines are of very high quality and style to guarantee
commercial viability.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is nothing
out of place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Until he introduced Stoneleigh
‘Wild Valley’ – wines made with indigenous yeast fermentation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In commercial terms, this is risk
taking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In quality and character, one is
getting closer to the soil and thus terroir.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This was in 2015 with a Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Noir, followed by a
Chardonnay in 2016, the vintage being 2015.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>These wines were noted by the critics, but not ‘wildly’ taken up by the
consumer.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzaXXriU2L99Tj7w7W_sgNvOl-r2ya-d_Qrw1xxo5KI0mBMhXTwqJy6JwV8hQ8ZAtWMWwtDioeoPhepvrfWS6OQVgQpP2BBKpPNMPuZV866yKqfbnpkK7ciCqApcCoGIOP8gEA6sd5Lyb1/s1600/2018-09-09+16.12.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzaXXriU2L99Tj7w7W_sgNvOl-r2ya-d_Qrw1xxo5KI0mBMhXTwqJy6JwV8hQ8ZAtWMWwtDioeoPhepvrfWS6OQVgQpP2BBKpPNMPuZV866yKqfbnpkK7ciCqApcCoGIOP8gEA6sd5Lyb1/s320/2018-09-09+16.12.31.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
That should change with the release this year of the <b>2018 Stoneleigh ‘Wild Valley’ Marlborough
Ros</b><b>é</b> and <b>2018
Stoneleigh ‘Wild Valley’ Marlborough Pinot Gris</b>. I think Jamie Marfell decided to step it up a
big bit by increasing the depth and richness of fruit character and the weight
of the wines. The Rosé bursts with aromatic
fruit but remains mouthwatering. The
Pinot Gris has lovely weight and presence of exotic flavours. However both have that thread of funkiness
and hint of smoke that wild yeasts give.
There’s no corruption, but real detail and interest. And this from a ‘commercial’ wine! Here’s a case of risky winemaking coming
mainstream! </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-27932605151936461542018-09-22T13:55:00.004-07:002018-09-22T13:55:54.973-07:00Dark Forces<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Where does the best Pinot Noir come from?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wine world would agree that it is the
Cote d’Or, or Burgundy in France.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Of
course the French don’t talk about the variety.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It’s the place or terroir.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But
with a wider interpretation, you could say that Oregon, New Zealand, California
and Australia are also contenders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
is a dark force, recognised by a few that know there is somewhere else, with
great potential – Germany.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Spatbugunder, has only been taken seriously as capable of
making fine German wine in a few specific locations, notably the Ahr, or Baden,
with the Pfalz<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>or Rheinhessen as the
best areas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But there are around 12,000
ha of Pinot Noir planted in Germany, the third most in the world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But how things change.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Climate change, and adventurous and serious
growers who see the quality of top Burgundy have made for a number of wonderful
bottlings that would surprise the most hardened Burgundy-phile.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There can be complex, barrel-aged, Spatburgunders
that have the potential to age and show their terroir.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sounds familiar?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBhBQGx7P7V3y-5ilQPlsffKDqMFWoV3Lv8O_4nP7FyUaiFjAPy-Wjw27quGnsOWbAxo8-Rtr3_e4m0q_yCdkw9pewasU0lXwQUi4ew5ypbLkTf09WUlukAV2z36TNKBcIzb7SzHnhayub/s1600/2018-09-05+19.51.41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBhBQGx7P7V3y-5ilQPlsffKDqMFWoV3Lv8O_4nP7FyUaiFjAPy-Wjw27quGnsOWbAxo8-Rtr3_e4m0q_yCdkw9pewasU0lXwQUi4ew5ypbLkTf09WUlukAV2z36TNKBcIzb7SzHnhayub/s320/2018-09-05+19.51.41.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
The Good Doctor visited us one night for dinner. He brought with him a <b>2012 Chat Sauvage Lorcher Schlossberg Spatburgunder</b>. He had visited this specialist domaine based
in the Rheingau, and came back filled with awe.
The contents of the bottle showed SWMBO and I why. Some bottle age complexity meant this was not
a youthful showcase, and that it had settled into itself. The range of fruit and savoury flavours was
wonderfully broad and complex. There was
mouthfeel, texture and vinosity. There
was a harmony and complete feel to the wine.
We knew it had provenance, but one that we didn’t see the context of
yet. This opened up a totally new
dimension to explore. Who would know
what dark forces might reside there?</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZFOc402CRI7WSXviXLXNwq5ttIX1zV8UxF15z3AQnQEnanY65Y5E7EWV3azjB588TDnrR7tQwgqgD41Mjt_en_lb-Z3EpeYTeRBtdTtpXM82RBU9cjage_cZnxKgHbeJ_n60tT1szQKv/s1600/2018-09-05+19.51.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZFOc402CRI7WSXviXLXNwq5ttIX1zV8UxF15z3AQnQEnanY65Y5E7EWV3azjB588TDnrR7tQwgqgD41Mjt_en_lb-Z3EpeYTeRBtdTtpXM82RBU9cjage_cZnxKgHbeJ_n60tT1szQKv/s320/2018-09-05+19.51.51.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-40372372953920958522018-08-30T21:51:00.002-07:002018-08-30T21:53:55.222-07:00Tine - No Time<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Anyone who has followed my blog for any length of time knows
that I am a fan of the Donnhoff wines from the Nahe in Germany.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some subscribe to the thought that the Nahe
wines are similar to those of the Mosel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Then there are others who say that they share a lot in common with
Rheingau wines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To tell the truth I’m a
fence sitter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are their own style,
and I’m sure that those who grow and make Nahe wine would say the same, as they
would appreciate the subtle differences more so that outsiders.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Kabinett has long been a
regular staple at our household, SWMBO and I just whipping out a bottle
whenever a guest turns up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Invariably,
it’s delicious with its fresh florals and limes, soft acidity and gorgeous balance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You don’t need to wait for it to come right
or settle down. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s ready for drinking
straight away, but it’ll develop well for several years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That was just the case with yet another
bottle of the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">2016 Donnhoff Oberhauser
Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All
our guests loved this wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It needs ‘No
Time’ to cellar.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5fxCoe1Zx24fszsAS109V3cfRMcNl1w3O1deww8gFpP3aHFYSHPQsttm-xu_FKYnc3jarKsVzSi4UxitUM3yHRbAlOoq3PZVToIroXVZ2UhiqWBIdqFC5ttdzx9xDnusr1eIqpPhbCcIj/s1600/2018-08-28+07.35.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5fxCoe1Zx24fszsAS109V3cfRMcNl1w3O1deww8gFpP3aHFYSHPQsttm-xu_FKYnc3jarKsVzSi4UxitUM3yHRbAlOoq3PZVToIroXVZ2UhiqWBIdqFC5ttdzx9xDnusr1eIqpPhbCcIj/s320/2018-08-28+07.35.35.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
But it’s a different kettle of fish with the Donnhoff
Spatlesen and Auslesen wine. These are
somewhat rarer, and definitely more expensive.
Quite a bit more that you might expect.
I’ve had some glorious examples of the Spatlese especially, but with
some bottle age. One can get caught out
with the high sulphur levels – which help the tine age – just as at J.J.
Prum. The <b>2014 Donnhoff Niederhauser Hernannshohle Riesling Spatlese </b>was just
that, lots of free sulphur, maybe a touch of bound sulphur too. The fruit deliciousness was there, with that
extra richness – but no, the sulphur got in the way. A bit of air time helped. But not enough for me. The next day SWMBO proclaimed it free, but
not for me. It’s a wine that needs ‘Tiime’
to cellar. I’ll try not to make the same
mistake again. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122119262624929190.post-35171728523351725472018-08-27T12:33:00.001-07:002018-08-27T12:33:38.565-07:00Expressions of Exoticism<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The range of sweet wines is enormous as is their
diversity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From gentle late harvest to
full-blown botrytised wines; then there’s the factor of style, from variety,
place, balance and other inputs such as maturation with wood or even controlled
flor-yeast effects, as in Takay.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
SWMBO and I invited The Normal Man and I-Spy Man together,
for pre-loading, as we were heading out to a wine and food matched dinner with
Ch. d’Yquem (that’s another story).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
had the choice of many different wines, from bubbly to gently sweet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But we opted for full-on exoticism and
decadence.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jSFFkWh8JcGlAmYskqfEkvqAFKkY4DpCF29dT5m_azOA9XZYyQcfY-56GrnHpjjBIgVFhVKFJr0cj4ci8fMkZ5LShQRh2jxPNyXe6JhWqeoiAHePqhm0BP9F50MzjFTE1-91nRssowY6/s1600/2018-08-22+12.35.17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jSFFkWh8JcGlAmYskqfEkvqAFKkY4DpCF29dT5m_azOA9XZYyQcfY-56GrnHpjjBIgVFhVKFJr0cj4ci8fMkZ5LShQRh2jxPNyXe6JhWqeoiAHePqhm0BP9F50MzjFTE1-91nRssowY6/s320/2018-08-22+12.35.17.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
The <b>2015 Millton
Vineyard ‘Clos Samuel’ Gisborne ‘Special Berry Selection’ Viognier</b> was what
we happily settled on. The wine comes
from a section of the Te Arai vineyard, near the river, where the fruit is
prone to botrytis infection. And in
2015, the Viognier, left out there, got infected in a big way. James Millton instructed the pickers to
select berries properly affected and dried.
The wine is thus technically a Trockenbeerenauslese, but in typical
deprecating fashion, he’d rather say it’s closer to a Beeerenauslese.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
No matter, the wine was gloriouslu decadent and
opulent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Light orange colour, and with
the subtle aromas and flavours of apricots and tropical fruits, with an overlay
of orange marmalade, unfolding caramel and toffee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unctuous on the palate, but with enough
acidity for cut – just.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And just enough
alcohol for power, drive and line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just
a glorious exotic wine to sip on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
flowed easily, and indeed it did gum up our palates a little.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But then the stickiness cleared.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When we looked back at this wine and compared
it to the five vintages of Yquem, it wasn’t out of place. <o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0