Hunter Valley Semillon is one style that has the ability to
last well, and it also changes dramatically in character. It is said the cooler vintages best suit the
long-aging ability, and that the traditional, minimally intervened wines of old
do o too, and show beautiful complexity.
The modern, more fruit-expressive versions don’t seem to behave quite as
well, but they still cellar and improve too.
It was a treat when The Knotter brought to dinner a 1999 Brokenwood Hunter Valley Semillon. This is in the modern camp, and deliciously
bright with tropical fruits and herbs on release, rather than austere, shy and
rather non-descript as in the more traditional wines. But this too had developed beautifully with
bottle age. Not gloriously, as glory isn’t
beautiful. This was still fresh as a
daisy with florals, white stonefruits, herbs and a touch of toast, and maybe a
suggestion of honey. The wine was a
stylish and elegant drink, the complexity reminding both SWMBO and I of how a
beautiful Chardonnay can show. However,
I’d put money on this Semillon lasting even longer. Thank you to The Knotter.
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