Clone Wars

This is not the first time this title has been used in the context of wine.  All wine enthusiasts are aware that the clone of a variety is important in how it takes to rootstock, and if it prefers certain soils over others.  They can grow very differently and yield in ways that vary widely from each other.  This is why different clones have been developed in the search for vinous perfection!  However in today’s environment of provenance being one of the most important factors to be aware of in the style of a wine, most consumers will put clones down to the next level of interest.  Not so viticulturists and winegrowers.

Few winegrowers will say that there is one ideal clone, and certainly Kai Schubert and Marion Deimling took the approach of planting 8 different clones of Pinot Noir to make an elegant and sophisticated wine with built-in complexities, partially resulting from the mix of clones.  The planted their ‘Marion’s Vineyard’ near Gladstone over 1999 and 2000, and have had nearly 15 years of experience with the vines, the fruit and the wines.  Their ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir utilises all of the clones planted – as long as all are successful in the growing season.  That’s another aspect to having different clones – insurance for the elements. 

But from the start, Kai and Marion decided to bottle limited amounts of wine based on clonal differences.  The confusingly labelled ‘Marion’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is actually a selection of fruit from clone 5 (the Pommard clone), Abel (the gumboot clone) and the 10/5 (one of N.Z.’s originals).  To match this is the ‘Block B’ Pinot Noir is a selection of Dijon clones, 115, 667, 777, 114 and 113, the newer arrivals.  This is from ‘Block B’ in ‘Marion’s Vineyard’.

Kai and Marion, and wine lovers have found consistent differences between the wines, and these are exemplified by the 2016 Schubert ‘Marion’s Vineyard’ Wairarapa Pinot Noir and the 2016 Schubert ‘Block B’ Wairarapa Pinot Noir.  The former is light ruby-red in colour and is redolent of red berry fruits, florals and dark and dried herbs.  The palate has a gorgeous approachability to it.  You could say it was ‘feminine’.  The latter is dark-red and black hued in colour.  It has black fruits, dark herbs, minerals and game.  It is deep and fulsome, with plenty of firm tannin grip.  You could call it ‘masculine’.  The wines are vinified much the same, though the ‘Block B’ deserves and gets a touch more new oak.  Otherwise it’s all down to clonal selection.  Which is your preference?  Most punters love the size and power of the ‘Block B’, hence its dearer price.  Some, such as SWMBO and I love the beauty of the ‘Marions’s Vineyard’.  It’s a tie for us two.  Both are delicious, high quality wines.