We were graced with the presence of Gordy and Perfect P. The time with them could be expected to be a good one. They are a vibrant couple, with lots on the go, and we could expect them to look after themselves to some degree. And so it was. What we didn’t expect was for Perfect P to cook us a meal at home! Gordy being in charge of the wines had a couple of ‘Options’ lined up for us. It was to be expected. We had a a couple of ‘Options’ line up for them. That too was expected. But how the wines turned out was unexpected.
To set the scene, we opened a 2006 No. 1 Family Estate ‘Cuvee Virginie’ Methode from the famous Daniel Le Brun. It is a tribute label to Daniel’s daughter, and it really is sophisticated. Last time SWMBO and I tried it, it was backward, and seemed to need time in bottle. However, on opening it was harmonious and together and very now. A very pleasant surprise. Lovely autolysis, and waves of flavour.
Then to the mystery whites. Served blind, a 2005 Keller Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken from the Rheinhessen was a tough one to figure. It smelt very German, but the dryness, highish alcohol and body suggested Alsace. A beautiful drop, with gorgeous ‘custard and cream’ from bottle-development, and great interest in flavour. If you were critical, it seemed forward too. The acidity was soft and lowish. Both SWMBO and I chose Alsace as our answer, with the proviso it seemed from over the border (at least in our minds). From the Rheinhessen and sitting at 13.0% alc. All that was unexpected, but in retrospect, it all made sense.
Our contribution to the blind game was a 2005 Nicolas Joly ‘Clos de la Coulee de Serrant’ Savennieres. A classic from this biodynamicist. Golden and terribly oxidised on nose, this partly redeemed itself with body and sweetness and richness in this dry wine. We were all disappointed. We’d been told that Joly recommends decanting 24 hours in advance, so it was interesting to follow. Unexpectedly, it began to lose its oxidative nose. Pineapples were seen by SWMBO. Gordy could see ultra-late picking. He could have guessed Rhone white. With 15.0% alc., one could see why you’d go down this track. But, Gordy said Chenin Blanc – and correctly. As time went on, the wine got cleaner and richer, but also sturdier and hotter. You could not expect to understand how this wine would behave…and I don’t think we can yet…
On to the reds, as Perfect P was cooking up the venison racks. Gordy’s red seemed so Bordeaux-like, with lovely dark berried-plummy fruit on the nose, but the richness on palate that ensued was so unexpected. Game, leather, juiciness and great tannic structure marked what was the wine of the night. It was 1999 Antinori ‘Solaia’. Yes, Bordeaux in Tuscany. SWMBO queried brett, but no, it was complexity, and the wine got sweeter, yet more structured with drinking. Cabernet Sauvignon CAN work in Tuscany, we all reckoned.
Then a 2001 Rostaing Cote-Rotie ‘La Landonne’. Much more elegant and considerably more acidic. The freshness and raciness spoke of Cote-Rotie rather than Hermitage or Cornas for sure. Lovely gentle savoury fruit development, then a huge whack of bacony oak and luncheon meat complexity that Perfect P could see. We’ve seen this label with an unhealthy amount of the horses in the past, and the cleanliness was a little unexpected.
To tie up the evening, no guessing games, unexpectedly so, but at that time of night, much easier and better. 2004 Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes. Sheer elegance with richness. I love these 2004s, even though they are not the best rated. This is really harmonious and soft textured. Rieussec seems more flashy and Suduiraut has lovely tension, but this is sensuous. Expected.
Monday, July 4, 2011
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Outpourings
It was a bit of a reunion with the old crew from a wine show a few years ago. A lot has happened since then, and when we all got together, out came all the news and what was on our minds. The Chairman and the Jelly Bean Girl were in transit, so it was a welcome stop-over as far as SWMBO and I were concerned. The Sabre Girl and Hutch we had met up with recently, and they had plenty of family news too. Pouring of wine helps the process, and a general pairing of them helped make the reunion a vinously interesting one.
As is the norm, bubbles really set the scene well. A 2003 Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage Champagne was delightfully rich, up-front and nearly bold. The dosage was particularly evident, and made the wine lush in a vintage that could have resulted in flabbiness. Then came the 2002 Pol Roger Champagne Rose, possessing that elegance that marks the house style. Succulent and with a luscious finesse, the soft red fruit characters totally harmonious.
Moving on to whites, two absolutely divergent styles. The 2004 Jaboulet Saint-Peray ‘Sauvageres’ was a wonderful surprise. Real freshness for this 100% Marsanne, with lovely white stonefruits and delicate spice from the oak. Initially pleasing was the 2007 Paulinshof Brauneberger Kammer Riesling Spatlese ‘feine herb’. Lovely rich honeyed nose, but oddly lean and lacking substance on palate, despite the 12.0% alc. The wine seemed forward, and even more so as we drank it.
A bit of a lead-in with a lighter red was the 2006 Montille Volnay 1er ‘Carelle sous Chapelle’. We’ve loved this before, for its elegance, but tonight much more substantial, with dense fruit, structure and a bit more oak than I remembered. This ended up being wine of the night…
The main course was served with a quartet of wines. Actually two pairs, each pair being a 1986 and 1985 together. Wynns ‘John Riddoch’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, and Ch. Montrose St Estephe represented in both vintages. In some ways, the vintages should have been of the same ilk. 1986 more ageworthy, and 1985 more classic. And that’s how they turned out. The Aussie pair stole the limelight. The 1986 dense and dark, with firmness and boldness. Real concentration and time to go. That super-ripe fruit and powerful oak in balance. The 1985 was more gentle, more layered, and flowed across the palate with nuance. Most of the group plugged the 1986, the Chairman and I went for the 1985. The clarets were more secondary in character, both showing some horseyness. Drier too, and without the fruit sweetness. The 1986 rather locked up, and austere, being rather hard, but with concentration. Maybe this could go another two decades? The 1985 softer and broader, more evolved, but also more bretty. These French numbers just weren’t that enjoyable!
The night was ending, so came the 2004 Ch. Rieussec Sauternes. I love the elegance of this vintage, Semillon oiliness and waxy textures, just enough ripeness and kindly botrytis. So drinkable. The Riuessec very modern and shiny, and with style and impeccable cleanliness. This ‘New World’ style seems to be more prevalent with the Rothschild ownership. Whatever the reason, it was still a hit at the end of the evening.
As is the norm, bubbles really set the scene well. A 2003 Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage Champagne was delightfully rich, up-front and nearly bold. The dosage was particularly evident, and made the wine lush in a vintage that could have resulted in flabbiness. Then came the 2002 Pol Roger Champagne Rose, possessing that elegance that marks the house style. Succulent and with a luscious finesse, the soft red fruit characters totally harmonious.
Moving on to whites, two absolutely divergent styles. The 2004 Jaboulet Saint-Peray ‘Sauvageres’ was a wonderful surprise. Real freshness for this 100% Marsanne, with lovely white stonefruits and delicate spice from the oak. Initially pleasing was the 2007 Paulinshof Brauneberger Kammer Riesling Spatlese ‘feine herb’. Lovely rich honeyed nose, but oddly lean and lacking substance on palate, despite the 12.0% alc. The wine seemed forward, and even more so as we drank it.
A bit of a lead-in with a lighter red was the 2006 Montille Volnay 1er ‘Carelle sous Chapelle’. We’ve loved this before, for its elegance, but tonight much more substantial, with dense fruit, structure and a bit more oak than I remembered. This ended up being wine of the night…
The main course was served with a quartet of wines. Actually two pairs, each pair being a 1986 and 1985 together. Wynns ‘John Riddoch’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, and Ch. Montrose St Estephe represented in both vintages. In some ways, the vintages should have been of the same ilk. 1986 more ageworthy, and 1985 more classic. And that’s how they turned out. The Aussie pair stole the limelight. The 1986 dense and dark, with firmness and boldness. Real concentration and time to go. That super-ripe fruit and powerful oak in balance. The 1985 was more gentle, more layered, and flowed across the palate with nuance. Most of the group plugged the 1986, the Chairman and I went for the 1985. The clarets were more secondary in character, both showing some horseyness. Drier too, and without the fruit sweetness. The 1986 rather locked up, and austere, being rather hard, but with concentration. Maybe this could go another two decades? The 1985 softer and broader, more evolved, but also more bretty. These French numbers just weren’t that enjoyable!
The night was ending, so came the 2004 Ch. Rieussec Sauternes. I love the elegance of this vintage, Semillon oiliness and waxy textures, just enough ripeness and kindly botrytis. So drinkable. The Riuessec very modern and shiny, and with style and impeccable cleanliness. This ‘New World’ style seems to be more prevalent with the Rothschild ownership. Whatever the reason, it was still a hit at the end of the evening.
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
A Dozen 2009s
It'd been a while since I'd caught up with The Rascal, but there he was, at the tasting billed as a Dozen 2009 wines, a vintage generally deemed to be a top one in Europe. Cheeky as ever, but with insight and the ability to sum up a person's character in just a few words. The twinkle in his eye leaves you in little doubt why he has that moniker from me...
And the wines? A 2009 von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett of great delicacy typical of the Saar. Subtlety is the key word here, and an easy wine to miss in a line-up, followed by 2009 Geltz-Zilliken 'Rausch' Riesling Kabinett, with lovely purity, steel, and a hint of decadence by way of its honied notes. Gorgeous. The third German wine a 2009 H. Thanisch-Erben Berncasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese was marked by reduction, but carried far more typical Middle Mosel weight. Given a decade plus, these reductive wines can come together amazingly.
French whites began with a 2009 Ch. Gaudrelle 'Turonien' Vouvray Sec, crisp, clean, white florals and stonefruits, a little leanish for me, butagain with delectable delicacy for others. Chardonnay next with a 2009 Corsin Macon-Villages, again a lighter style, but showing complex oak barrel nuances and remarkably sweet fruit. A step up was the 2008 - yes, an error - 2008 Corsin Saint Veran 'Vieilles Vignes'. More depth, more concentration and interest, and better with an extra year of bottle age. Worth the extra asking price of $6.00 over the previous wine.
The top 2009 Bordeaux wines are yet to be released, but two cheapies gave an indication of what's to come. A lovely primary fruited, spotlessly clean, supple wine with real Merlot tobacco was the 2009 'Comtes de Tastes' Bordeaux. It makes some of our Merlot wines 2-3 times the price look wrong! More what I expected was the 2009 Ch. Fongaban Cotes de Castillon, darker and with more extract, but a little rustic, as can be the case.
A bracket of Rhone wines finished off the 2009 line-up. Firstly the 2009 Fondreche 'Mas O'sud Cotes du Ventoux, plump, ripe, lush and an easy approach with a juicy burst through the palate. The 2009 Vendemio 'Regain' Cotes du Ventoux was lifted with a little VA, which reduced the real fruit expression, but more structure was the key. A wine to take a wee gamble on. Far more gutsy and traditional with the taste of garrigue that is often written about was the Aphillanthes Cotes du Rhone Villages 'Vieille Vignes'. Blacker fruits and earth too. Much more to look at in the glass. Then finishing with a 2009 Ch. Saint Cosme Gigongas, the classiest of all the reds, with fine-grained tannin structure and a stylishness to the near opulent fruit.
The Rascal never puts the pressure on you to buy anything, and that's his charm. SWMBO and I will order a few of these wee gems soon...
And the wines? A 2009 von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett of great delicacy typical of the Saar. Subtlety is the key word here, and an easy wine to miss in a line-up, followed by 2009 Geltz-Zilliken 'Rausch' Riesling Kabinett, with lovely purity, steel, and a hint of decadence by way of its honied notes. Gorgeous. The third German wine a 2009 H. Thanisch-Erben Berncasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese was marked by reduction, but carried far more typical Middle Mosel weight. Given a decade plus, these reductive wines can come together amazingly.
French whites began with a 2009 Ch. Gaudrelle 'Turonien' Vouvray Sec, crisp, clean, white florals and stonefruits, a little leanish for me, butagain with delectable delicacy for others. Chardonnay next with a 2009 Corsin Macon-Villages, again a lighter style, but showing complex oak barrel nuances and remarkably sweet fruit. A step up was the 2008 - yes, an error - 2008 Corsin Saint Veran 'Vieilles Vignes'. More depth, more concentration and interest, and better with an extra year of bottle age. Worth the extra asking price of $6.00 over the previous wine.
The top 2009 Bordeaux wines are yet to be released, but two cheapies gave an indication of what's to come. A lovely primary fruited, spotlessly clean, supple wine with real Merlot tobacco was the 2009 'Comtes de Tastes' Bordeaux. It makes some of our Merlot wines 2-3 times the price look wrong! More what I expected was the 2009 Ch. Fongaban Cotes de Castillon, darker and with more extract, but a little rustic, as can be the case.
A bracket of Rhone wines finished off the 2009 line-up. Firstly the 2009 Fondreche 'Mas O'sud Cotes du Ventoux, plump, ripe, lush and an easy approach with a juicy burst through the palate. The 2009 Vendemio 'Regain' Cotes du Ventoux was lifted with a little VA, which reduced the real fruit expression, but more structure was the key. A wine to take a wee gamble on. Far more gutsy and traditional with the taste of garrigue that is often written about was the Aphillanthes Cotes du Rhone Villages 'Vieille Vignes'. Blacker fruits and earth too. Much more to look at in the glass. Then finishing with a 2009 Ch. Saint Cosme Gigongas, the classiest of all the reds, with fine-grained tannin structure and a stylishness to the near opulent fruit.
The Rascal never puts the pressure on you to buy anything, and that's his charm. SWMBO and I will order a few of these wee gems soon...
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Getting Together
It has taken a year for Brit Biker, Tigger, Teacher Ma'am and Niggle and us to get together. Much has happened in that time, and the catch up was full of news and progress. We face changes and continue to move forward. Brit Biker had prepared a good lamb rack for dinner, and the wines flowed around it.
For starters, a wine from the Czech Republic, from the Suche region, a 2009 Michlovsky Palava Sauvignon Pozdni Sber. As far as I can tell, Milos Miklovsky bottles wine showing terroir, this from the Palava area, a 'late harvest' wine coming in at 13.5%. It wasn't Sauvignon as we know it, but very delicate and faint in varietal character, but it had vinosity and balanced freshness. The perfect aperitif, actually, and it surprised us all. Then onto a 2009 Spade Oak Viognier, sealed with a 'Vino-lok'. Rich, dense, still firm. But very varietal and exotic, with a bit of oak showing too. This is going to develop pretty well.
Then the lamb was served. Judged to perfection, even pink inside. Moist and succulent with subtle, but distinctive flavour. Normally you'd think Bordeaux varietal, but no, it was a 2006 Montille Volnay 1er 'Carelle la Chapelle'. Elegant, but so clear-cut, with intensity and a core, yet so gentle. It got together with the lamb amazingly. The best 2006s from the Cote de Beaune can be superb. This was followed by a 2004 E&E 'Black Pepper' Barossa Sparkling Shiraz. Saturated purple red in colour, the nose was dumb and brooding. But rich, sweet and juicy on the palate, the ripe spicy fruit enriched by the residual sugar, but then kept in check by the growing feel of tannin grip. Strangely in balance, and quite sumptuous.
The cheese board came out. Very ripe double brie was the centre piece, with a cheve emerging as a beauty too. Two old Kiwis from a high yield year. The 1986 Coopers Creek Cabernet/Merlot was still dark and dense, robust and solid, with acid and greenness, but still full of vitality, without the spoilage I had seen before. It was hard to drink, but it was surprisingly alive after 25 years. Workable with the cheeses. The 1986 Stonyridge 'Larose' was uber-mellow and faded. There was nothing left of its personality and vinosity. Very smooth, sufficiently ripe, hints of berry fruit, just disappearing to nothingness, as we looked and sipped.
A sweet treat to finish was the 2009 Clearview 'Sea Red'. A sort of ruby port-lookalike. Fruity and sweet, but quite elegant. Sometimes this label has awkward bits hanging out of it, but this vintage was very much getting together, becoming a lovely mellow finish. It helped to make our getting together a success.
For starters, a wine from the Czech Republic, from the Suche region, a 2009 Michlovsky Palava Sauvignon Pozdni Sber. As far as I can tell, Milos Miklovsky bottles wine showing terroir, this from the Palava area, a 'late harvest' wine coming in at 13.5%. It wasn't Sauvignon as we know it, but very delicate and faint in varietal character, but it had vinosity and balanced freshness. The perfect aperitif, actually, and it surprised us all. Then onto a 2009 Spade Oak Viognier, sealed with a 'Vino-lok'. Rich, dense, still firm. But very varietal and exotic, with a bit of oak showing too. This is going to develop pretty well.
Then the lamb was served. Judged to perfection, even pink inside. Moist and succulent with subtle, but distinctive flavour. Normally you'd think Bordeaux varietal, but no, it was a 2006 Montille Volnay 1er 'Carelle la Chapelle'. Elegant, but so clear-cut, with intensity and a core, yet so gentle. It got together with the lamb amazingly. The best 2006s from the Cote de Beaune can be superb. This was followed by a 2004 E&E 'Black Pepper' Barossa Sparkling Shiraz. Saturated purple red in colour, the nose was dumb and brooding. But rich, sweet and juicy on the palate, the ripe spicy fruit enriched by the residual sugar, but then kept in check by the growing feel of tannin grip. Strangely in balance, and quite sumptuous.
The cheese board came out. Very ripe double brie was the centre piece, with a cheve emerging as a beauty too. Two old Kiwis from a high yield year. The 1986 Coopers Creek Cabernet/Merlot was still dark and dense, robust and solid, with acid and greenness, but still full of vitality, without the spoilage I had seen before. It was hard to drink, but it was surprisingly alive after 25 years. Workable with the cheeses. The 1986 Stonyridge 'Larose' was uber-mellow and faded. There was nothing left of its personality and vinosity. Very smooth, sufficiently ripe, hints of berry fruit, just disappearing to nothingness, as we looked and sipped.
A sweet treat to finish was the 2009 Clearview 'Sea Red'. A sort of ruby port-lookalike. Fruity and sweet, but quite elegant. Sometimes this label has awkward bits hanging out of it, but this vintage was very much getting together, becoming a lovely mellow finish. It helped to make our getting together a success.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Subtle Forces
After all the years and all the bottles, it never ceases to amaze me how subtle forces play on your perception and appreciation of wines, even those you have tasted many times. Dinner with Grunter and the Wandering winemaker was particularly mellow, as the other halves were a delight and fun. It made for a softly, sweet and easy evening. And the wines seemed that way too.
Nautilus Cuvee Marlborough Lot 602 is a bit of a mini Bollinger as far as I'm concerned. SWMBO has ensured a supply for all occasions. Tonight the dosage appeared much higher and the yeasty autolysis far more subdued. Delicios nevertheless, but more a Louis Roederer of old! And the under-the-radar 2009 Te Mata 'Zara' Viognier. In a world where explosive, high octane examples rule, 'Zara' tends to get left in the wake. And unfairly so. Over a lovely dinner it shone with its more delicate richness, lovely oily texture and hidden power that emerged in the glass. We would not have drunk so much of a show-stopper for sure, and we made it the wine of the night. And then a 2006 Hyperion Cabernet Sauvignon from Romania! First whiff - full of brett. Danger signal. But strangely it came and went, sort of like the topics of conversation. A touch dried out. But then great with cheese. The ripeness was good, the oak a little rustic, but it was 'fine' to drink.
To be aware of these subtle forces is important. We can see their effect, but also it is great to go with the flow. It makes life easy and enjoyable if you do.
Nautilus Cuvee Marlborough Lot 602 is a bit of a mini Bollinger as far as I'm concerned. SWMBO has ensured a supply for all occasions. Tonight the dosage appeared much higher and the yeasty autolysis far more subdued. Delicios nevertheless, but more a Louis Roederer of old! And the under-the-radar 2009 Te Mata 'Zara' Viognier. In a world where explosive, high octane examples rule, 'Zara' tends to get left in the wake. And unfairly so. Over a lovely dinner it shone with its more delicate richness, lovely oily texture and hidden power that emerged in the glass. We would not have drunk so much of a show-stopper for sure, and we made it the wine of the night. And then a 2006 Hyperion Cabernet Sauvignon from Romania! First whiff - full of brett. Danger signal. But strangely it came and went, sort of like the topics of conversation. A touch dried out. But then great with cheese. The ripeness was good, the oak a little rustic, but it was 'fine' to drink.
To be aware of these subtle forces is important. We can see their effect, but also it is great to go with the flow. It makes life easy and enjoyable if you do.
Monday, May 30, 2011
Not a Dead Cert
It's been a while since the last post, as work has been demanding. Part of it was a visit to Grunter's region to keep things humming, and I wasn't sure if we could stay. Nothing's a dead cert, since you can't impose, even on the best friends.
To make it sweeter, I brought along a 1983 Vieux Chateau Certan from Pomerol. Expecting the worst, but out came the cork in fine fashion. Long too. And only one-third soaked, and still firm. Dark hearted red with mahogany-tawny edges. A little autumnal on nose,and a bit resiny. Purists would see a little brett? But on palate sweet and vigorous. Good acidity. Loads of Merlot fruit cake and Cabernet berries. Complex, and still with time to go - another decade.
I wondered if it was going to be a goodie. The 1982 was even sweeter and lush. My fears were that it was a dead cert to be on its last legs or spoiled by the dreaded 'B'. No way. It was a restorative to believing and being positive.
To make it sweeter, I brought along a 1983 Vieux Chateau Certan from Pomerol. Expecting the worst, but out came the cork in fine fashion. Long too. And only one-third soaked, and still firm. Dark hearted red with mahogany-tawny edges. A little autumnal on nose,and a bit resiny. Purists would see a little brett? But on palate sweet and vigorous. Good acidity. Loads of Merlot fruit cake and Cabernet berries. Complex, and still with time to go - another decade.
I wondered if it was going to be a goodie. The 1982 was even sweeter and lush. My fears were that it was a dead cert to be on its last legs or spoiled by the dreaded 'B'. No way. It was a restorative to believing and being positive.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Seafood Extravaganza
We were off over the hill to meet up with our gourmet friends for a celebration of seafood. One keen kitchen confidential with our hosts doing the service matters allowed 10 guests, of which SWMBO and I to sit down and enjoy the creativity. The menu was provided in advance and all of the attendees brought along wines that might match the seven courses served up. When the food was dished out, we made our choices from the pooled wines. Some worked, some didn’t. But that’s the usual case when the wines are not tasted while the food was designed and prepared…
The Trio of oysters was delicious. Bluff oysters, of course, done natural, Rockefeller and as a shot. Unfortunately, most of us had finished our Champers beforehand. The NV Veuve Clicquot ‘Yellow Label’ medium weight with soft Pinot Noir fruit and moderate yeasty autolysis. A fresh landing, no doubt. And the NV Lanson ‘Black Label’, much weightier and more autolysis and aldehydic. Most preferred the former, but I went the latter.
Seared tuna rolled in Dijon mustard and herbs with lemon mayo and micro salad. A wow dish, with fantastic textures and rich surroundings. A 2006 La Viarte Colli Orientalide Friuli Pinot Grigo looked as if it was going to be too old or underwhelming, but it worked a treat, becoming sweeter, and enhancing the juiciness of the tuna. The big surprise was the 1998 Saints Hawke’s Bay Pinotage, beautifully smooth, cedary-spicy and light enough to match the tuna, and stand up to the mustard. The 2008 Hawkshead Bannockburn Pinot Noir was bold and too fruity for the fish, but a delight in its own right, in fact most excellent and very Bannockburn.
Saltiness was the problem in the Salt and pepper squid served with anchovy aioli for the wines to match. Both the wines were fully mature and without the ‘cut’ for the squid, and the saltiness was too much for the wines fragility. The 2007 Koura Bay ‘Sharkstooth’ Pinot Gris quite pear-like and rounded, the 2003 Pond Paddock Te Muna Chardonnay getting a little vegetal, but still intact on palate, though rather delicate.
My pick of the courses was the Crayfish ravioli, served in a bisque sauce. Sweet and fresh textured flesh with intense reduction. The Hidalgo ‘La Gitana’ Manzanilla Sherry meeting the bisque head on and powering through, but in the end the flavour was a little too light. A good amontillado would be even better. Unfortunately the 1998 Schlumberger Alsace Pinot Gris ‘Les Princes Abbes’ was too flabby and mature, the golden colour and apricotty flavours indicating botrytis?
Crispy skin John Dory fish, sautéed, on fennel and salsa verde. Mine just slightly undercooked, and it continued to progress to perfection. Subtle and sweet, with the herby influence. With three wines, there should have been a stunning match, but no. On their own, the wines were great. A 2008 Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett was gentle, crisp and faintly exotic in its sweetness, but too sweet for the fish. A 2004 Tyrrell’s ‘Belford’ Hunter Valley Semillon, only 11.0% alc, but lovely herb and waxy textured, and great finesse and depth. But rather austere for the dish. And the blockbuster, seriously concentrated, mealy, nutty, toasty and citrusy 2007 Villa Maria ‘SV – Keltern’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay. Just too powerful and oaky for the John Dory.
Duo of dessert time! A Lemon and thyme brulee, beautifully combining both citrus and aromatic herb, plus a Valrhona 70% cocoa chocolate mousse. A seldom seen 1999 Cofield Rutherglen Late Harvest Muscadelle at 9.2% alc did the job perfectly with the brulee. Stylish Muscadelle, rather than brash Muscat being the key to the match. A 2006 Kilroy was here! McLaren Vale Sparkling Shiraz had the right flavours for the chocolate, but was too dry. A lovely example of modern, balanced, non-excessive bubbly Shiraz, however.
We were getting close to being finished off, and the Cheese course did the job. A wonderful triple cream brie, and a Kapati Kikorangi blue, set beside a stunningly rich, spicy, integrating 1998 Rosemount ‘Balmoral’ McLaren Vale Syrah, misnamed, as it was definitely Shiraz. This was strong enough to wade through the creamy layers of the brie and stand tall with the flavour peak of the blue. Also a success was the Lauriston Show Liqueur Muscat, but this headed off to its own world of raisiny decadence. Perfect blend of fresh and old material, more on palate than on nose, just increasing in richness and intensity with every sip.
An amazing night of a range of seafood, and a great deal of fun trying to match the course with the range of wines. Must do it again!
The Trio of oysters was delicious. Bluff oysters, of course, done natural, Rockefeller and as a shot. Unfortunately, most of us had finished our Champers beforehand. The NV Veuve Clicquot ‘Yellow Label’ medium weight with soft Pinot Noir fruit and moderate yeasty autolysis. A fresh landing, no doubt. And the NV Lanson ‘Black Label’, much weightier and more autolysis and aldehydic. Most preferred the former, but I went the latter.
Seared tuna rolled in Dijon mustard and herbs with lemon mayo and micro salad. A wow dish, with fantastic textures and rich surroundings. A 2006 La Viarte Colli Orientalide Friuli Pinot Grigo looked as if it was going to be too old or underwhelming, but it worked a treat, becoming sweeter, and enhancing the juiciness of the tuna. The big surprise was the 1998 Saints Hawke’s Bay Pinotage, beautifully smooth, cedary-spicy and light enough to match the tuna, and stand up to the mustard. The 2008 Hawkshead Bannockburn Pinot Noir was bold and too fruity for the fish, but a delight in its own right, in fact most excellent and very Bannockburn.
Saltiness was the problem in the Salt and pepper squid served with anchovy aioli for the wines to match. Both the wines were fully mature and without the ‘cut’ for the squid, and the saltiness was too much for the wines fragility. The 2007 Koura Bay ‘Sharkstooth’ Pinot Gris quite pear-like and rounded, the 2003 Pond Paddock Te Muna Chardonnay getting a little vegetal, but still intact on palate, though rather delicate.
My pick of the courses was the Crayfish ravioli, served in a bisque sauce. Sweet and fresh textured flesh with intense reduction. The Hidalgo ‘La Gitana’ Manzanilla Sherry meeting the bisque head on and powering through, but in the end the flavour was a little too light. A good amontillado would be even better. Unfortunately the 1998 Schlumberger Alsace Pinot Gris ‘Les Princes Abbes’ was too flabby and mature, the golden colour and apricotty flavours indicating botrytis?
Crispy skin John Dory fish, sautéed, on fennel and salsa verde. Mine just slightly undercooked, and it continued to progress to perfection. Subtle and sweet, with the herby influence. With three wines, there should have been a stunning match, but no. On their own, the wines were great. A 2008 Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett was gentle, crisp and faintly exotic in its sweetness, but too sweet for the fish. A 2004 Tyrrell’s ‘Belford’ Hunter Valley Semillon, only 11.0% alc, but lovely herb and waxy textured, and great finesse and depth. But rather austere for the dish. And the blockbuster, seriously concentrated, mealy, nutty, toasty and citrusy 2007 Villa Maria ‘SV – Keltern’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay. Just too powerful and oaky for the John Dory.
Duo of dessert time! A Lemon and thyme brulee, beautifully combining both citrus and aromatic herb, plus a Valrhona 70% cocoa chocolate mousse. A seldom seen 1999 Cofield Rutherglen Late Harvest Muscadelle at 9.2% alc did the job perfectly with the brulee. Stylish Muscadelle, rather than brash Muscat being the key to the match. A 2006 Kilroy was here! McLaren Vale Sparkling Shiraz had the right flavours for the chocolate, but was too dry. A lovely example of modern, balanced, non-excessive bubbly Shiraz, however.
We were getting close to being finished off, and the Cheese course did the job. A wonderful triple cream brie, and a Kapati Kikorangi blue, set beside a stunningly rich, spicy, integrating 1998 Rosemount ‘Balmoral’ McLaren Vale Syrah, misnamed, as it was definitely Shiraz. This was strong enough to wade through the creamy layers of the brie and stand tall with the flavour peak of the blue. Also a success was the Lauriston Show Liqueur Muscat, but this headed off to its own world of raisiny decadence. Perfect blend of fresh and old material, more on palate than on nose, just increasing in richness and intensity with every sip.
An amazing night of a range of seafood, and a great deal of fun trying to match the course with the range of wines. Must do it again!
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