It’s been a little stressful for our little dinner group lately. Natural disasters, new work, some health niggles and pressures that seem to pop up out of nowhere, and we just have had to put off getting together. The situation has mellowed out for all and we are all comfortable and cruising now. We finally managed to meet up at Brucie and the Bassinet Babe’s for dinner. The Eventress was looking in fine form and The New Man must now be called The Settled Man. (Somehow ‘The Old Man’ doesn’t work!), and with SWMBO and yours truly, we were at it again opening wines and sharing gossip.
An NV Moet & Chandon ‘Brut Imperial’ started the proceedings, still fresh and quite delicate. Looked like a new shipment, as the brand seems to be ticking over quickly now. Another half year in bottle would see it show more depth, but we had no problem finishing what was a good starter.
A great cheeseboard came out and a 2009 von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett slowly built up in richness to go especially well with an ash-rolled chevre served with home-made quince paste. I was surprised by the delicacy of the wine, as it has seemed a little bolder, as this site is prone to be, in the past. Then a blast from the past, a 2002 Stonecroft Hawke’s Bay Gewurztraminer. Fully developed and getting golden, the varietal perfumes and spices had given way to burnished characters and an unctuous palate just starting to show signs of drying and bitterness. Remarkable really, and if it was the ‘Old Vine’ version, it may have surprised us even more.
Blind tasting red wines was the next phase, before the roasted lamb and vegetables. We nailed the 2008 Mt Difficulty ‘Long Gully’ Pinot Noir. Probably my wine of the night. Velvety smooth, with the perfect degree of richness, leaving the wine with a sense of finesse. Beautifully ripened red berry and cherry fruits with freshness and bright acidity. Seamless drinking, with restraint. Our host pulled out the stops with a 1996 Gaja ‘Sito Moresco’ Langhe, a blend of Nebbiolo, Merlot and Cabernet in near equal proportions. Powerfully constructed but flawed by considerable brettanomyces. This could have been a sensation. SWMBO corrected guessed Italian too.
The next was a 2004 Craggy Range ‘Le Sol’ Syrah, served not blind. Beautifully rich and not over-bearing in any way. Clearly varietal and without over-ripeness, this was lively, fresh, vibrant with a hedonistic sweetness and quite delicious. Probably the wine of the night for most of the team. Another blast from the past was presented next, blind again. The 1995 Pegasus Bay ‘Maestro’ Waipara Cabernet/Franc/Merlot. Garnet edged, past mature in colour. And distinctly herbal, stalky and acidic. But the aspirations behind the wine were evident. Fine and significant extraction, and a decent dose of spicy new oak was still a feature. I thought it older.
With the sticky pudding and ice cream came a 2009 Schubert ‘Dulce’ sweet wine, made from Muller-Thurgau from vines outside the cellar door in Martinborough and carrying 6.5% alc. A wow wine with its extreme richness, fresh cutting acidity, amazing spice and honey flavours overlaid with marmalade essence. My second wine of the night! And proof that Muller-Thurgau has its uses...
The effect of wine began taking its toll. We were getting too comfortable and cruisy. Time to head home until the next dinner where the catch up, gossip and wine opening and drinking will no doubt continue.
Friday, August 26, 2011
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Moments of Magic from Montana
There was a time in our wine industry that biggest was best. And in the 20-30 years ago period it was Montana Wines that was the giant. It has morphed into Brancott Estates nowadays and its pretty much still the biggest, but it isn’t necessarily seen as the best today if world-class, earth-shaking quality and style are the criteria. While today’s Montana still dominates the overall sales, back in the 1980s it also dominated in terms of innovation. New varieties, new production techniques, and the wines relatively affordable if not downright good value. Brancott does the latter part well still, today. And don’t forget, it was Montana that made a serious go of Marlborough, something that we can be proud of today.
Easy to reach in the drink-up racking was a selection of Montana Rieslings and Cabernet Sauvignons. They needed to be opened, and I wasn’t hopeful of too much magic in the bottles. Most of them I’ve tried before, with disappointing results, but a kinder frame of mind might have been a good approach.
First up, three bottles of 1988 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling. I’ve waded my way through a few bottles of this, wondering why I had so much to start with. It was the year of Cyclone Bola, which might explain a lot? All in the Montana proprietary claret-styled, slim-line bottle with the Montana crest embossed. Corks came out a treat and all in good nick, soaked less than half-way. On the label 12.0% alc., with 12 g/L rs, a TA of 7.5 g/L and pH of 3.4. Not much has changed, the formula still works for them today. Bottle #1 light golden, showing delicate, rich honied notes and a trace of oxidation. Palate similar, with lovely sugar/acid balance and though a thread of oxidation throughout, quite drinkable. Bottle#2 deep golden colour, dense on nose with deep oxidation and madeira like. Honied but blowsy and past it. Bottle#3. Palest yet, fine, tight, crisp and acidic with less fruit. “There are only good bottles” was the saying that came to mind.
Then two older bottles. The 1983 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling, a multi-gold winner in its day, a wine that Serena Sutcliffe praised when she judged the Air N.Z, Wine Awards way, way back. An ullaged bottle, with deep golden colour, some oxidation, dried out a tad, but honey and cream notes, with good acid, and a touch of burnished flavours. A core of quality could be detected. Magic! Then a 1981 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling, also ullaged, but in fine condition. More lean and thread, tight and delicately toasty. Not as rich or as concentrated as the 1983, but a delight, despite the line of oxidation.
There’s not much Cabernet Sauvignon in Marlborough now, but in the 1980s there was plenty. Montana’s Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon was always knife-edge, but ripeness was not being achieved consistently anywhere else, so the Montana wines were relatively acceptable. The vineyard was the Fairhall site and the wines ranged from 11.5 to 12.0% alc. with about 6.1-6.3 g/L TA, and aged in U.S. and French puncheons. The 1990 was dark mahogany-garnet with a solid, deep nose of blackcurrants, green herbs, minted chocolate, all quite in harmony. But weak on palate, somewhat stalky but smooth. The 1987 was lighter coloured, garnet and brick, lean, slightly grubby and corky. Leaf, acid, mustiness, and thinness pervaded this non-beauty. If it wasn’t corked, it wouldn’t be much better. Then a 1986, a little deeper in colour and with a gutsy, grubby nose of herbs, leaf and toasty oak. Mellowed out on palate, the acidity came through, but this was drinkable just.
Then onto an experimental 1982 Montana Wairau Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 11.5% alc. and aged 10 months in U.S. oak puncheons. It was an allocated wine at the time. Deep mahogany and garnet hued, this had an air of complexity and interest. Earthy-dirty, but currant, leafy, herb and stalk, all intermixed with oak toast. Same interest on palate, the acidity elevated, and savoury green. A little ugly in some respects, but this is Kiwi Cabernet, from Marlborough, 29 years old. Some forgiveness is required.
I found some good moments with these Montana wines in the final analysis. Not quite magical, but plenty to interest me and nostalgic as well…
Easy to reach in the drink-up racking was a selection of Montana Rieslings and Cabernet Sauvignons. They needed to be opened, and I wasn’t hopeful of too much magic in the bottles. Most of them I’ve tried before, with disappointing results, but a kinder frame of mind might have been a good approach.
First up, three bottles of 1988 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling. I’ve waded my way through a few bottles of this, wondering why I had so much to start with. It was the year of Cyclone Bola, which might explain a lot? All in the Montana proprietary claret-styled, slim-line bottle with the Montana crest embossed. Corks came out a treat and all in good nick, soaked less than half-way. On the label 12.0% alc., with 12 g/L rs, a TA of 7.5 g/L and pH of 3.4. Not much has changed, the formula still works for them today. Bottle #1 light golden, showing delicate, rich honied notes and a trace of oxidation. Palate similar, with lovely sugar/acid balance and though a thread of oxidation throughout, quite drinkable. Bottle#2 deep golden colour, dense on nose with deep oxidation and madeira like. Honied but blowsy and past it. Bottle#3. Palest yet, fine, tight, crisp and acidic with less fruit. “There are only good bottles” was the saying that came to mind.
Then two older bottles. The 1983 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling, a multi-gold winner in its day, a wine that Serena Sutcliffe praised when she judged the Air N.Z, Wine Awards way, way back. An ullaged bottle, with deep golden colour, some oxidation, dried out a tad, but honey and cream notes, with good acid, and a touch of burnished flavours. A core of quality could be detected. Magic! Then a 1981 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling, also ullaged, but in fine condition. More lean and thread, tight and delicately toasty. Not as rich or as concentrated as the 1983, but a delight, despite the line of oxidation.
There’s not much Cabernet Sauvignon in Marlborough now, but in the 1980s there was plenty. Montana’s Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon was always knife-edge, but ripeness was not being achieved consistently anywhere else, so the Montana wines were relatively acceptable. The vineyard was the Fairhall site and the wines ranged from 11.5 to 12.0% alc. with about 6.1-6.3 g/L TA, and aged in U.S. and French puncheons. The 1990 was dark mahogany-garnet with a solid, deep nose of blackcurrants, green herbs, minted chocolate, all quite in harmony. But weak on palate, somewhat stalky but smooth. The 1987 was lighter coloured, garnet and brick, lean, slightly grubby and corky. Leaf, acid, mustiness, and thinness pervaded this non-beauty. If it wasn’t corked, it wouldn’t be much better. Then a 1986, a little deeper in colour and with a gutsy, grubby nose of herbs, leaf and toasty oak. Mellowed out on palate, the acidity came through, but this was drinkable just.
Then onto an experimental 1982 Montana Wairau Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 11.5% alc. and aged 10 months in U.S. oak puncheons. It was an allocated wine at the time. Deep mahogany and garnet hued, this had an air of complexity and interest. Earthy-dirty, but currant, leafy, herb and stalk, all intermixed with oak toast. Same interest on palate, the acidity elevated, and savoury green. A little ugly in some respects, but this is Kiwi Cabernet, from Marlborough, 29 years old. Some forgiveness is required.
I found some good moments with these Montana wines in the final analysis. Not quite magical, but plenty to interest me and nostalgic as well…
No Hope Whites
Clearing out yet another row of unwanted wines from a wine rack that we care not to look at, because the thought of opening the wines there have very little appeal. They are in essence ‘no hope whites’, but the demand for storage space for new wines that SWMBO has acquired meant that taking the corks out and tasting them was a must. We take the view that if the producer put the wine to bottles, they should at least be tasted, no matter where or when…
The younger wines first. A 1995 Te Horo ‘Aurora’ Sauvignon Blanc, at 11.5%. From Marlborough fruit, the year that it rained and rained, and made by the ever-so-enthusiastic Alastair Pain in the Kapiti Coast. Light golden straw colour, this had a reasonably vinous nose that was identifiably varietal, soft and not asparagus-like at all. However, thin and very acidic, and faded to not much on palate. Surprisingly in condition after all it had against it! This was paired, time frame wise, with a 1996 Villa Maria Private Bin Gisborne Chardonnay, at 13.0%, and “aged in French and American barriques”. Deep golden, but still together on the nose. Over-ripe melon fruits with some oxidation. And as expected blowsy and overblown now, the ripe fruit going heavy, and quite toasty from the oak. It was holding up, but on its last legs. SWMBO bought this after it was highly rated by various authorities, and it has done well.
Then onto the serious stuff (not!) A 1985 Montana ‘Wohnsiedler’ Muller-Thurgau, at 10.5% alc, proudly showing two NWC gold medals for 1983 and 1984. Orange coloured, very oxidised, and quite a thin, nothing wine. Even when it is passed its best, Muller-Thurgau can show its weakness! And the a 1987 Montana Marlborough Valley Chardonnay at 12.0% alc., fruit from the Woodbourne Estate, aged 12 months in French Nevers oak. TA of 8.2 g/L and it shows. Sophisticated for the giant Montana in its day, but now full-golden coloured, green nectarine fruit on bouquet, but aged and oxidised, but very oaky and spicy. The palate extremely acidic, and the toastiness from the oak sticking out.
Sure they were 'no hope whites’, but there was something to learn from them. To the winemakers responsible, my apologies for not opening them and drinking them at their proper times.
The younger wines first. A 1995 Te Horo ‘Aurora’ Sauvignon Blanc, at 11.5%. From Marlborough fruit, the year that it rained and rained, and made by the ever-so-enthusiastic Alastair Pain in the Kapiti Coast. Light golden straw colour, this had a reasonably vinous nose that was identifiably varietal, soft and not asparagus-like at all. However, thin and very acidic, and faded to not much on palate. Surprisingly in condition after all it had against it! This was paired, time frame wise, with a 1996 Villa Maria Private Bin Gisborne Chardonnay, at 13.0%, and “aged in French and American barriques”. Deep golden, but still together on the nose. Over-ripe melon fruits with some oxidation. And as expected blowsy and overblown now, the ripe fruit going heavy, and quite toasty from the oak. It was holding up, but on its last legs. SWMBO bought this after it was highly rated by various authorities, and it has done well.
Then onto the serious stuff (not!) A 1985 Montana ‘Wohnsiedler’ Muller-Thurgau, at 10.5% alc, proudly showing two NWC gold medals for 1983 and 1984. Orange coloured, very oxidised, and quite a thin, nothing wine. Even when it is passed its best, Muller-Thurgau can show its weakness! And the a 1987 Montana Marlborough Valley Chardonnay at 12.0% alc., fruit from the Woodbourne Estate, aged 12 months in French Nevers oak. TA of 8.2 g/L and it shows. Sophisticated for the giant Montana in its day, but now full-golden coloured, green nectarine fruit on bouquet, but aged and oxidised, but very oaky and spicy. The palate extremely acidic, and the toastiness from the oak sticking out.
Sure they were 'no hope whites’, but there was something to learn from them. To the winemakers responsible, my apologies for not opening them and drinking them at their proper times.
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Falling Flat
It was a chance for us to catch up with the 'Atta Girls' both of them lively and fun. The conversation was indeed bouncy and filled with seriousness and laughter. A couple of bottles brought out had all the credentials for adding to the vitality of it all.
Firstly, Germany with a difference for us. We usually have plenty of Mosel wines, so for a change a 2008 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Kabinett from the Rheingau. All very adequate, being soft, gentle with a modest richness, but somewhat out of kilter with the acidity. The end result a little sour and flat. This was disappointing, especially as SWMBO and I had visited the castle, and sat overlooking the Rhine from the restaurant, sipping a near 30 year old Spatlese. Maybe there's a reason why we stick with tried and true?
Next was the 2006 Montille Volnay 1er 'Carelle sous la Chapelle'. We've had this a few times now, the last bottle stunning with The Chairman. Alas, it was quiet and dull. It may have been the temperature? But as it warmed up, just not enough there. We waited and waited, to no avail. It filled up a little, but there was nothing special about it, and indeed somewhat flat.
It came to a trio of Aussie reds from Yalumba to lift our vinous spirits. The 2008 Yalumba 'Hand Picked' Barossa Shiraz/Viognier, just lifted, floral, exotic and spicy. Beautifully so, and with style. Then a 2005 Yalumba 'The Menzies' Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. When opened, it had a forward, earthy, near dirty nose, but it had become very varietal, but laced with sumptuous cedar spices and lush, sweet fruit. However, it was the moumental 2006 Yalumba 'The Signature' Cabernet/Shiraz. Layered and eveloving in glass to show great fruit depth and richness, along with an amazing array of spices.
These did the job and saved the day (or night). If we drunk it all, we would've needed to fall flat to recover!
Firstly, Germany with a difference for us. We usually have plenty of Mosel wines, so for a change a 2008 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Kabinett from the Rheingau. All very adequate, being soft, gentle with a modest richness, but somewhat out of kilter with the acidity. The end result a little sour and flat. This was disappointing, especially as SWMBO and I had visited the castle, and sat overlooking the Rhine from the restaurant, sipping a near 30 year old Spatlese. Maybe there's a reason why we stick with tried and true?
Next was the 2006 Montille Volnay 1er 'Carelle sous la Chapelle'. We've had this a few times now, the last bottle stunning with The Chairman. Alas, it was quiet and dull. It may have been the temperature? But as it warmed up, just not enough there. We waited and waited, to no avail. It filled up a little, but there was nothing special about it, and indeed somewhat flat.
It came to a trio of Aussie reds from Yalumba to lift our vinous spirits. The 2008 Yalumba 'Hand Picked' Barossa Shiraz/Viognier, just lifted, floral, exotic and spicy. Beautifully so, and with style. Then a 2005 Yalumba 'The Menzies' Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. When opened, it had a forward, earthy, near dirty nose, but it had become very varietal, but laced with sumptuous cedar spices and lush, sweet fruit. However, it was the moumental 2006 Yalumba 'The Signature' Cabernet/Shiraz. Layered and eveloving in glass to show great fruit depth and richness, along with an amazing array of spices.
These did the job and saved the day (or night). If we drunk it all, we would've needed to fall flat to recover!
Saturday, July 23, 2011
A Bash For Two Birthdays
We ambled down to one of our favourite eateries to meet up with O&E. There were two birthdays to celebrate and a few good bottles needed to be shared. O&E looked fab, and they were in good form. For openers, a 2002 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Rosé. Pretty to look at, but very substantial to drink. This surprised us all how dense and nearly unctuous this was in texture and weight. And as it warmed up, the autolysis amalgam just grew stronger. It was a very cold night, so the power and the body of the wine was a positive. It could have been a good food Champagne too.
Then with the entrée course, a 2007 Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio Sudtirol. A bit of a classic, as was the tier for this famous producer. Hinting at complex flintiness on the nose, it was clean and clear-cut, but with good textures and the subtle nuances mandatory for interest. And of course, it went with all the entrees from oysters to salmon and quail. The mains of pork belly, duck and beef had a 2002 Ch. Pichon-Lalande Pauillac to do the job. And it did, working with each dish without any conflict. The wine itself is tight and tidy, showing its vintage provenance. Archetype blackcurrant leaf notes, but with perfect elegant proportion. Fine drying tannins, and just enough fruit sweetness to let you know it could keep for another decade if need be. It will never be a blockbuster or show winner, but always a shy charmer.
We had a platter of cheese presented, and that was the cue for the 1996 Ch, Guiraud Sauternes and 1997 Ch, d’Yquem Sauternes to come out to the table. The former darker burnished gold, with forward caramel and lozenge aromas and flavours. Some phenolic dryness especially on the back palate suggested it will decline soon. Nevertheless a brassy Sauternes that still had good richness. The latter wine was a step up and backwards, as could be expected. Light golden in colour, this had a flashy, deep lanolin and waxy-marmalade and honey-packed nose lifted with VA and a hearty dose of new oak. The palate certainly fruity with youthful characters, the wine yet to become really complex and of interest. Yet the sheer class, richness and potential was all there. It’s a ripe, full and solid Yquem, and better because of its youth. I reckon it’ll be one of the better releases. But it sure delivered plenty for the two birthday people.
Then with the entrée course, a 2007 Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio Sudtirol. A bit of a classic, as was the tier for this famous producer. Hinting at complex flintiness on the nose, it was clean and clear-cut, but with good textures and the subtle nuances mandatory for interest. And of course, it went with all the entrees from oysters to salmon and quail. The mains of pork belly, duck and beef had a 2002 Ch. Pichon-Lalande Pauillac to do the job. And it did, working with each dish without any conflict. The wine itself is tight and tidy, showing its vintage provenance. Archetype blackcurrant leaf notes, but with perfect elegant proportion. Fine drying tannins, and just enough fruit sweetness to let you know it could keep for another decade if need be. It will never be a blockbuster or show winner, but always a shy charmer.
We had a platter of cheese presented, and that was the cue for the 1996 Ch, Guiraud Sauternes and 1997 Ch, d’Yquem Sauternes to come out to the table. The former darker burnished gold, with forward caramel and lozenge aromas and flavours. Some phenolic dryness especially on the back palate suggested it will decline soon. Nevertheless a brassy Sauternes that still had good richness. The latter wine was a step up and backwards, as could be expected. Light golden in colour, this had a flashy, deep lanolin and waxy-marmalade and honey-packed nose lifted with VA and a hearty dose of new oak. The palate certainly fruity with youthful characters, the wine yet to become really complex and of interest. Yet the sheer class, richness and potential was all there. It’s a ripe, full and solid Yquem, and better because of its youth. I reckon it’ll be one of the better releases. But it sure delivered plenty for the two birthday people.
Thursday, July 21, 2011
Bit of a Bash
Out to the Chinese eatery, as a bit of a birthday bash, with Towering Mike, Krystal Kirsty, Stellar Star, the Young One, Jolly Jol and SWMBO. A bit impromptu, but such occasions can be the best.
The wines were just perfect for it. A rare, up-and-coming 2009 Fairbourne Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. You couldn't get anything more Loire-like. Made by Russell Hooper and Sarah Inkersell who may take the Savvy world by storm one day - and probably sooner than later! Then a 2009 von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett, rich and plump, quite exotic as Middle Mosel can ever be. Slight reduction that gave gave to subtle richness. A beauty. Then an outstanding 2006 Felton Road 'Block 5' Central Otago Pinot Noir. Forest floor, with utter sweetness underneath. As it saw air time, the most spectacular structure came evident, showing this could age another 8-10 years.
The food was spot on, and the company, especially Stellar Star was exemplary and funny. You couldn't ask for a better birthday present.
The wines were just perfect for it. A rare, up-and-coming 2009 Fairbourne Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. You couldn't get anything more Loire-like. Made by Russell Hooper and Sarah Inkersell who may take the Savvy world by storm one day - and probably sooner than later! Then a 2009 von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett, rich and plump, quite exotic as Middle Mosel can ever be. Slight reduction that gave gave to subtle richness. A beauty. Then an outstanding 2006 Felton Road 'Block 5' Central Otago Pinot Noir. Forest floor, with utter sweetness underneath. As it saw air time, the most spectacular structure came evident, showing this could age another 8-10 years.
The food was spot on, and the company, especially Stellar Star was exemplary and funny. You couldn't ask for a better birthday present.
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Outside The Norm
A visit to our largest vignoble last week gave SWMBO and I the chance to taste hundreds of wines. Most were current release wines, but many were unfinished current vintage numbers that were still sitting in tank or barrel. It was a welcome change at dinner to have something a little different, somewhat out of the norm from what our business day was offering.
The following were tasted over three meals, but I’ll note them in style. The Rascal and Savvy Sarah love the 2010 Te Whare Ra ‘Toru’ at their favourite Asian eatery. This Gewurz, Riesling and Pinot Gris blend hits all the spots with the food. Mildly perfumed, with acid zip, and good textural integrity, and just enough sweetness to meet a little heat and spice. Chalk one up for blending, and two bottles over the meal for us!
The Riesling Man did options on a couple of whites. Of course, we were predisposed into thinking he’d serve aromatic whites, arguably his first love. A 2009 F.X. Pichler Sauvignon Blanc Smaragd Loibner Steinertal threw us off-track away from success straight away. Spices and weight, rounded textures, almost Alsace-like, then finally the herb nuances opening up at the end. 13.0% alc. on the label. And a very petite white burgundian styled 2007 Domaine Gavenet Cotes du Jura Chardonnay ‘Grusse en Billat’. This revealed its variety slowly but surely, and its provenance, just east of Burgundy could be deduced.
It’s much easier when wines are served open. The Great Grape Grower had us around for a curry, and he served the 2009 Fevre Chablis 1er ‘Vaulorent’. Not as ‘out there’ as the 2008 tasted around this time last year, but significant extract and oaking made this a special number. It’s worth the asking price over the other premier crus.
We had a couple of Aussie Hunter Valley reds just to give something different to the Riesling Man. A 2004 Brokenwood ‘Graveyard’ Shiraz at 12.5% was your modern, elegant interpretation. Trying to be aromatic and perfumed peppery, the oak spicing was dominant, and racy acidity was the focus on the palate. Very New Worldy, and reminded me little of the Hunter Valley. However the 2003 Wyndham ‘Black Cluster’ Shiraz 2003 was a different proposition. Funky, inky, gamey, earthy, but without anything truly sulphidic or nasty as the old vintages of yore had in spades. Something very interesting here, and very Hunter, probably a caricatured stereotype of the variety and the region.
Since we had been drinking young things with the Great Grape Grower and his entourage, we brought out the oldies. A comparison of 1987 Wynns ‘Black Label’ Coonawarra Cabernet with the 1987 Wynns ‘John Riddoch’ Coonawarra Cabernet – commercial release vs the super-premium. The 1985 and 1986 John Riddoch tasted with The Chairman last month were fab. Here the Black Label was gentle, smooth, still showing blackcurrant fruit with mint, cedar and dust. A slip-down drink. The John Riddoch was hard, harsh and acidic, with pushed-to-far oak, and disjointed components. This is how some of these have gone with age. The 1993 is an example. Hamo thought it slightly corked, and I could see that too.
The following were tasted over three meals, but I’ll note them in style. The Rascal and Savvy Sarah love the 2010 Te Whare Ra ‘Toru’ at their favourite Asian eatery. This Gewurz, Riesling and Pinot Gris blend hits all the spots with the food. Mildly perfumed, with acid zip, and good textural integrity, and just enough sweetness to meet a little heat and spice. Chalk one up for blending, and two bottles over the meal for us!
The Riesling Man did options on a couple of whites. Of course, we were predisposed into thinking he’d serve aromatic whites, arguably his first love. A 2009 F.X. Pichler Sauvignon Blanc Smaragd Loibner Steinertal threw us off-track away from success straight away. Spices and weight, rounded textures, almost Alsace-like, then finally the herb nuances opening up at the end. 13.0% alc. on the label. And a very petite white burgundian styled 2007 Domaine Gavenet Cotes du Jura Chardonnay ‘Grusse en Billat’. This revealed its variety slowly but surely, and its provenance, just east of Burgundy could be deduced.
It’s much easier when wines are served open. The Great Grape Grower had us around for a curry, and he served the 2009 Fevre Chablis 1er ‘Vaulorent’. Not as ‘out there’ as the 2008 tasted around this time last year, but significant extract and oaking made this a special number. It’s worth the asking price over the other premier crus.
We had a couple of Aussie Hunter Valley reds just to give something different to the Riesling Man. A 2004 Brokenwood ‘Graveyard’ Shiraz at 12.5% was your modern, elegant interpretation. Trying to be aromatic and perfumed peppery, the oak spicing was dominant, and racy acidity was the focus on the palate. Very New Worldy, and reminded me little of the Hunter Valley. However the 2003 Wyndham ‘Black Cluster’ Shiraz 2003 was a different proposition. Funky, inky, gamey, earthy, but without anything truly sulphidic or nasty as the old vintages of yore had in spades. Something very interesting here, and very Hunter, probably a caricatured stereotype of the variety and the region.
Since we had been drinking young things with the Great Grape Grower and his entourage, we brought out the oldies. A comparison of 1987 Wynns ‘Black Label’ Coonawarra Cabernet with the 1987 Wynns ‘John Riddoch’ Coonawarra Cabernet – commercial release vs the super-premium. The 1985 and 1986 John Riddoch tasted with The Chairman last month were fab. Here the Black Label was gentle, smooth, still showing blackcurrant fruit with mint, cedar and dust. A slip-down drink. The John Riddoch was hard, harsh and acidic, with pushed-to-far oak, and disjointed components. This is how some of these have gone with age. The 1993 is an example. Hamo thought it slightly corked, and I could see that too.
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