With members of the family all together, a visit to the Martinborough vignoble was in order. Accompanying SWMBO and myself were Jubes, Mags, Wilco Johnny, Lithe Lisa, Flautist Aaaron and Dave-Man, making a lively party keen to taste wine. The aim was to visit producers run by families, to make the day a family affair.
After a heady drive over the Rimutakas and a settling coffee with muffins, we converged on The Cabbage Tree Vineyard where owner and winemaker David Bull showed us his hands-on artisanal operation. It’s just him and his wife Winifred here. The group liked the riper, subtle, stonefruity and weighty 2008 Cabbage Tree Semillon. I was more taken by the 2008 Cabbage Tree Chardonnay with its bold palate and prominent oaking. Fitting right in the Martinborough mould of ripe, savoury fruit and substance with structure, the 2008 Cabbage Tree Pinot Noir was also well-received. Cool, herb-like flavours marked the bouquet of the 2008 Cabbage Tree Merlot, this redeemed by the milk-chocolate flavours and richness on the palate. This first visit was an excellent and very personal introduction to the delights of wine growing.
The next call was to the BioGro certified Vynfields and a session with the elegant owner Kaye McAulay. The classy setting of the two storey villa was the perfect backdrop. We were the first public to taste their NV Vynfields ‘Bliss’ Sparkling Riesling. Though with 20 g/L rs, this seemed drier, but the same lovely lime and honeysuckle flavours were on show. A 2010 Vynfields Dry Riesling was just that. Dry, minerals and limes and a firm line. The 2009 Vynfields ‘Mad Rooster’ polarised the group, some enjoying the savoury spicy confected flavours, the others finding it too rustic. There was no doubt about the stylishness of the 2010 Vynfields Pinot Noir, with its excellent fruit depth and fine, proportioned lines. Talk of organics and biodynamics made us all feel a little more moral and righteous, and we enjoyed our time on the higher ground.
Wine-fuelled hunger drove us to see Marvellous Marvin at the meal-time diner. That refreshed us adequately to continue our vinous journey to meet up with that petit-powerhouse Helen Masters, winemaker at Ata Rangi. This is truly a family concern, with hubby Ben in the background and Clive and Ali, sibling owners all on hand. The new season releases were tasted. A 2011 Ata Rangi Summer Rosé was a benchmark for the style with its bright red fruits and thirst-quenchability. The 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Craighall Chardonnay was as rich and textured, and as complex as the last time I saw it. The new 2010 Ata Rangi ‘Crimson’ Pinot Noir shows its cooler fruit-ripening build up, and was racy and zesty in a fresh and lively way. Much more complete was the 2010 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir. While it shows the vintage too, it is on another plane, or should I say planet? Rounding off the tasting was the 2011 Ata Rangi ‘Kahu’ sticky. Minerals and marmalade, tight and ageworthy, yet already deliciously luscious and decadent.
Our final port of call was the giant of the region, Te Kairanga. Also family-owned, in this case by the Foleys, GM Andrew Shackleton gave us a tour of the impressively functional engine room. Then off to a tasting. The 2010 Te Kairanga Sauvignon Blanc showed very good gooseberryness with some weight and body. A range of Chardonnays was my pick. The 2009 Te Kairanga Chardonnay citrussy and oaky, quite up-front and clear-cut was surpassed by the 2009 Te Kairanga ‘Runholder’ Chardonnay showing more barrel-ferment creaminess and nutty oxidative complexities, which in turn was surpassed by the 2008 Te Kairanga ‘Casarina’ Chardonnay, more complete still. The same progression was seen in the Pinot Noirs, the 2009 Te Kairanga Pinot Noir fruity and linear, quite correct, then a more rich and sweeter 2007 Te Kairanga ‘Runholder’ Pinot Noir, showing some mushroom interest. Even more savoury and gamey was the 2007 Te Kairanga ‘John Martin’ Pinot Noir.
By then it was time to head back home, over the hill, to proceed with the evening activities. They say a family that plays together, stays together. Very true indeed.
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
Touring On-Premise
Had a little job at one of our top flight eateries, talking to some of the new staff about the New Zealand wine scene. They were a young, but enthusiastic bunch, and well-trained in their craft, but still relatively uninitiated in wine. The cool, maritime influenced climate, concept of regionality and terroir were discussed in the briefest time, as were the ideas of winemaker signature, plus wine and food synergy. The bottom line was that nothing can be better than to visit the regions and be on the land.
The concept put forward by The Peeler was to taste a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir each from Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough, Marlborough and Central Otago. It was a selection The Peeler put together, and it turned out pretty interesting going on this vinous tour, with these on-premise people. SWMBO turned up in support and helped hold it all together.
First up was the Hawke’s Bay group, and the 2011 Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Sauvignon Blanc was crisp, clean, relatively subdued, but with clear-cut varietal gooseberry flavours. Its stablemate, the 2010 Te Mata ‘Elston’ Chardonnay was a stunner. A combination of concentration with stylish elegance. Grapefruit galore with perfect mealiness and nuttiness, creamy barrel-ferment and crisp, racy acidity, just carrying the flavours for ages. There’s about as much Pinot Noir as there is Cabernet Sauvignon in The Bay, but it figures less than 8% of the region’s plantings, so it was Merlot. The 2009 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Merlot was another outstanding wine. Still dark purple and tightly bound, there was no mistaking the ripeness and richness of the plummy fruit and fine tannin grip. A great showing from these three from the region.
Then onto Martinborough. An interesting older wine came in the form of the 2010 Ata Rangi Sauvignon Blanc, some bean character, but lush and full, still full of sweet fruit and a with a touch of decadence. The 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Petrie Chardonnay also showed some bottle –development character. Savoury fruits, but tight and with linear power. Then a 2009 Porter’s Pinot Noir, quite restrained, but with the expected structure and slightly gamey complexity to the fruit. This had a touch of herbs too, which was both a positive for interest and a negative for indicating a cooler note. The region only makes up less than 3% of the country’s total plantings but the reputation is much bigger. I’ve seen better examples than these, but they weren’t exactly bad!
Marlborough accounts for more than half our plantings, and on that count is our most important region. An even older wine was the 2009 Auntsfield ‘Long Cow’ Sauvignon Blanc. More bean-like, but with considerable fruit sweetness and weight, making it nearly unctuous. An easy wine to underestimate would be the 2010 Mahi Chardonnay. Elegant, citrus and mineral with flinty lees complexities. There’s plenty built in here and I reckon it’ll keep well. Then the surprise find of the day, a 2009 Charles Wiffen Pinot Noir. Chock-full of ripe raspberry fruit, sweet, lush juicy and extremely vinous, with ideal tannin and acid balance. They say Marlborough will be the Pinot Noir engine room, making good quantities of good value, good quality examples. The other regions won’t be able to compare on these three counts taken together.
Then to the far south, Central Otago. As Chardonnay accounts for 4.5% of the plantings and not considered to be ‘there’ yet, we had a 2008 Mt Edward Riesling. This found favour with everyone. Slightly sweet, with citrus and florals and a generous, but not overbearing fruitiness. A touch of honey, but no toastiness yet. The perfect anytime sipper. The 2010 Rippon Sauvignon was one of those raw, complex, wooded styles. Not liked in general, but I thought it a bold wine and good effort. Nettles, spices and nectarines on a substantial palate. The final wine was a 2009 Wanaka Road Pinot Noir, a second label for Mt Edward. Light, supple and friendly, it didn’t have the typical fruit-bomb black cherry fruitiness, but rather, soft red fruits and a more gentle nature.
I think the on-premise folk found it useful. It was a good recap for me, in any event.
The concept put forward by The Peeler was to taste a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir each from Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough, Marlborough and Central Otago. It was a selection The Peeler put together, and it turned out pretty interesting going on this vinous tour, with these on-premise people. SWMBO turned up in support and helped hold it all together.
First up was the Hawke’s Bay group, and the 2011 Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Sauvignon Blanc was crisp, clean, relatively subdued, but with clear-cut varietal gooseberry flavours. Its stablemate, the 2010 Te Mata ‘Elston’ Chardonnay was a stunner. A combination of concentration with stylish elegance. Grapefruit galore with perfect mealiness and nuttiness, creamy barrel-ferment and crisp, racy acidity, just carrying the flavours for ages. There’s about as much Pinot Noir as there is Cabernet Sauvignon in The Bay, but it figures less than 8% of the region’s plantings, so it was Merlot. The 2009 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Merlot was another outstanding wine. Still dark purple and tightly bound, there was no mistaking the ripeness and richness of the plummy fruit and fine tannin grip. A great showing from these three from the region.
Then onto Martinborough. An interesting older wine came in the form of the 2010 Ata Rangi Sauvignon Blanc, some bean character, but lush and full, still full of sweet fruit and a with a touch of decadence. The 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Petrie Chardonnay also showed some bottle –development character. Savoury fruits, but tight and with linear power. Then a 2009 Porter’s Pinot Noir, quite restrained, but with the expected structure and slightly gamey complexity to the fruit. This had a touch of herbs too, which was both a positive for interest and a negative for indicating a cooler note. The region only makes up less than 3% of the country’s total plantings but the reputation is much bigger. I’ve seen better examples than these, but they weren’t exactly bad!
Marlborough accounts for more than half our plantings, and on that count is our most important region. An even older wine was the 2009 Auntsfield ‘Long Cow’ Sauvignon Blanc. More bean-like, but with considerable fruit sweetness and weight, making it nearly unctuous. An easy wine to underestimate would be the 2010 Mahi Chardonnay. Elegant, citrus and mineral with flinty lees complexities. There’s plenty built in here and I reckon it’ll keep well. Then the surprise find of the day, a 2009 Charles Wiffen Pinot Noir. Chock-full of ripe raspberry fruit, sweet, lush juicy and extremely vinous, with ideal tannin and acid balance. They say Marlborough will be the Pinot Noir engine room, making good quantities of good value, good quality examples. The other regions won’t be able to compare on these three counts taken together.
Then to the far south, Central Otago. As Chardonnay accounts for 4.5% of the plantings and not considered to be ‘there’ yet, we had a 2008 Mt Edward Riesling. This found favour with everyone. Slightly sweet, with citrus and florals and a generous, but not overbearing fruitiness. A touch of honey, but no toastiness yet. The perfect anytime sipper. The 2010 Rippon Sauvignon was one of those raw, complex, wooded styles. Not liked in general, but I thought it a bold wine and good effort. Nettles, spices and nectarines on a substantial palate. The final wine was a 2009 Wanaka Road Pinot Noir, a second label for Mt Edward. Light, supple and friendly, it didn’t have the typical fruit-bomb black cherry fruitiness, but rather, soft red fruits and a more gentle nature.
I think the on-premise folk found it useful. It was a good recap for me, in any event.
Saturday, September 24, 2011
Sporting Chance
It was very sporting of Peteski and Janski and family to host a dinner on the night of a significant football game. SWMBO and I had Radiohead in our company, and with the likes of AC Electric Man and The Relish on hand, there was plenty of conversation. Wine discussion came up against general chit-chat and gossip and of course the big game, but in the end, every topic was a winner on the night.
With the nibbles and starters, we had the whites. A 2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Gaba do Xil’ Valdeorras Godello wonderfully refreshing and zingy from the elevated acidity, nice tropical fruit notes, and a genuinely pleasant sipper, surprising a few drinkers. A relatively simple wine, but exactly as it should have been. A great contrast was the 1998 Marc Bredif Vouvray, easily more golden coloured and the most satisfying fresh waxy, but subtly secondary nose, and richly textured, slightly honied, but refreshing palate. A little reduction fitted in with the interest and development flavours. The Relish had enjoyed a range of these earlier and wasn’t quite as happy as I was on this. A treat for me though. The third was a 2009 Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay. I had been impressed with this earlier in the year, but on the field, it was still a newbie, with potential, but not showing as much as it could. Good ripe citrus and mealy fruit with nutty oak overlay, but no nuance yet. It’ll be better in another 18 months.
Marking half-time, AC Electric Man brought out his 2005 Craggy Range ‘The Quarry’ and it was a tight, brooding and firm beast. It gradually revealed its pedigree. Dark, concentrated ripe black fruits, massive, but fine-grained. A star in the waiting really, but it improved through the night.
Hearty chicken dishes appeared on the table, vegetables and salad, and it was onto the next phase of play with the wines. 1986 was a high-cropping vintage for Hawke’s Bay reds, but it was fascinating to see the 1986 Te Mata ‘Awatea’ alongside the 1986 Te Mata ‘Coleraine’. Both were faded garnet in colour and medium-light weighted, the tannins forming a residual line and thread through the palates. The former showed herby, sappy, blackcurrant leaf aromas and flavours, the coolness and low ripening exacerbated by acidity, the latter moderately ripened red fruits, but with sweetness and a harmonious mouthfeel. This is consistent behaviour for these labels, even when they were single vineyard wines as with these 1986s, and after, when they became blends of sites and made to a style.
Two other Bordeaux-themed reds followed. The 1980 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was also in the cooler, elegant spectrum, but sweeter and richer again over the two New Zealand oldies. Juicy minty notes and a core of fruit made this a good wine. And the extraction of fruit provided the structure where the tannins here were now becoming fully resolved. This wasn’t the case with the 1982 Ch. Rahoul Graves. A solid, chunky wine with earthy heart and a hard edged palate, AC Electric Man enjoyed this, but SWMBO and I saw robustness and coarseness. In its favour, it was still very alive and vital, with no brettanomyces. So it had a good outing and could be counted as a player.
The final tipple was a 2005 Waimea Estates Noble Riesling. Dark golden mahogany and incredibly sweet and concentrated. Huge botrytis ‘flytox’ characters with burnished, broad caramelised and candied fruits. A sip was all that was needed. Over the top and good with it.
It was good to give these wines a sporting chance to show, and they performed as they should have, if not better than expected, making the night a winning one.
With the nibbles and starters, we had the whites. A 2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Gaba do Xil’ Valdeorras Godello wonderfully refreshing and zingy from the elevated acidity, nice tropical fruit notes, and a genuinely pleasant sipper, surprising a few drinkers. A relatively simple wine, but exactly as it should have been. A great contrast was the 1998 Marc Bredif Vouvray, easily more golden coloured and the most satisfying fresh waxy, but subtly secondary nose, and richly textured, slightly honied, but refreshing palate. A little reduction fitted in with the interest and development flavours. The Relish had enjoyed a range of these earlier and wasn’t quite as happy as I was on this. A treat for me though. The third was a 2009 Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay. I had been impressed with this earlier in the year, but on the field, it was still a newbie, with potential, but not showing as much as it could. Good ripe citrus and mealy fruit with nutty oak overlay, but no nuance yet. It’ll be better in another 18 months.
Marking half-time, AC Electric Man brought out his 2005 Craggy Range ‘The Quarry’ and it was a tight, brooding and firm beast. It gradually revealed its pedigree. Dark, concentrated ripe black fruits, massive, but fine-grained. A star in the waiting really, but it improved through the night.
Hearty chicken dishes appeared on the table, vegetables and salad, and it was onto the next phase of play with the wines. 1986 was a high-cropping vintage for Hawke’s Bay reds, but it was fascinating to see the 1986 Te Mata ‘Awatea’ alongside the 1986 Te Mata ‘Coleraine’. Both were faded garnet in colour and medium-light weighted, the tannins forming a residual line and thread through the palates. The former showed herby, sappy, blackcurrant leaf aromas and flavours, the coolness and low ripening exacerbated by acidity, the latter moderately ripened red fruits, but with sweetness and a harmonious mouthfeel. This is consistent behaviour for these labels, even when they were single vineyard wines as with these 1986s, and after, when they became blends of sites and made to a style.
Two other Bordeaux-themed reds followed. The 1980 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was also in the cooler, elegant spectrum, but sweeter and richer again over the two New Zealand oldies. Juicy minty notes and a core of fruit made this a good wine. And the extraction of fruit provided the structure where the tannins here were now becoming fully resolved. This wasn’t the case with the 1982 Ch. Rahoul Graves. A solid, chunky wine with earthy heart and a hard edged palate, AC Electric Man enjoyed this, but SWMBO and I saw robustness and coarseness. In its favour, it was still very alive and vital, with no brettanomyces. So it had a good outing and could be counted as a player.
The final tipple was a 2005 Waimea Estates Noble Riesling. Dark golden mahogany and incredibly sweet and concentrated. Huge botrytis ‘flytox’ characters with burnished, broad caramelised and candied fruits. A sip was all that was needed. Over the top and good with it.
It was good to give these wines a sporting chance to show, and they performed as they should have, if not better than expected, making the night a winning one.
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
Departure Lounge
Marking a departure, we set up in our lounge and set out to have a few drinks with the Young New Trader and AC Electric Man. It was a pleasant time reminiscing over good times and discussing plans for the future. We settled in and the bottles began to flow is we laughed and joked and solved the problems of the world.
We set off with a trio of 2010 Sileni Estates Hawke’s Bay Chardonnays, the ‘Cellar Selection’ quite light and simple but with a really attractive sweetness that made it very drinkable. Up a step was ‘The Lodge’, rich, citrussy, mealy and beautifully textured from the barrel-fermentation. This is drinking so well now, and is surprisingly elegant for all its richness packed in. However the ‘Exceptional Vintage’ was something else with its extra depth, concentration and weight. This wine spoke ‘potential’, because at this stage it was restrained in flavour.
The next step was to journey to Australia, and explore two classic styles. A 2009 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon had richness, softness and breadth, with a core of blackcurranty fruit. The palate was mouthfilling and sweet, and fully textured with soft tannins. This was a solid, but fleshy number. We went 30 years back in time to a 1979 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, a multi-gold medal winner in its time. Lighter, with herb and stalky notes and considerable acidity. Intriguingly this morphed into dark berry fruits and smoke, chocolate and toast in the glass, and then back to the cooler herbaceous side, then to the complex expression again. The good thing was that it was spotlessly clean with no animal or grubby characters. Then a relatively youthful 2001 Lowe Hunter Valley Semillon. Bright light golden, this flowed with waxy, toasty herbal aromas and a soft textured shy-flavoured lanolin-herb and floral palate that suggested it could handle another decade of bottle-age. This was much tidier than the previous bottle a few months ago.
The destination next in line was Europe. The 2006 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Altos de Lanzaga’ Rioja was extremely fine, tight and New Worldy with slick dark red berry aromas and flavours, ultra-smooth and fine tannins, and a healthy dose of cleansing acidity. It could have come from nearly anywhere bar a savoury sweetness that hinted of its origins. We were surprised by how grunty and fleshy the 2006 Ch. Leoville-Poyferre St Julien was. SWMBO was distracted by the detracting brett, but the rest of us were quite accepting of its influence. Ripe enough, with lots of bacony-charry oak that went gamey, then fruity. Another multi wave, multi-layered wine of significant presence.
After a round of pizzas to soak up the savoury whites and hearty reds, we needed palate refresheners, so it had to be Mosel Riesling! The 2009 von Kesselstatt Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett was a beautifully nuance wine with nuances of yellow flowers, and substance. An eye opener because this site usually provides delicacy, cut and steel. Sealed in cork, this may have matured a little more quickly than in screwcap. It overshadowed the 2009 Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, which was tight and a little reductive. That’s what can happen with scewcaps. However, the legendary slate showed through, and we believed this will come right in time.
The night was drawing to a close, so a forage in the cellar found a rare 1975 Cooks Vintage Port. Cabernet Sauvignon-based with a swag of gold medals behind it, this was more the sweeter Portuguese-family style rather than the dry British-family based style. Faded rose colour, with a very fine, elegant, ethereal-fruity nose, the palate balanced sweetness of fruit and sugar with drying tannin grip. The most faint secondary character was beginning to show. Was this still young, or was it just a simpler wine? A tough point to debate, but the essential conclusion was that it was very drinkable. So it was drunk!
It was time to close the departure lounge. The AC Electric Man hopped into a taxi and departed home. The Young New Trader lounged downstairs to retire. We headed upstairs and departed to the land of nod.
We set off with a trio of 2010 Sileni Estates Hawke’s Bay Chardonnays, the ‘Cellar Selection’ quite light and simple but with a really attractive sweetness that made it very drinkable. Up a step was ‘The Lodge’, rich, citrussy, mealy and beautifully textured from the barrel-fermentation. This is drinking so well now, and is surprisingly elegant for all its richness packed in. However the ‘Exceptional Vintage’ was something else with its extra depth, concentration and weight. This wine spoke ‘potential’, because at this stage it was restrained in flavour.
The next step was to journey to Australia, and explore two classic styles. A 2009 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon had richness, softness and breadth, with a core of blackcurranty fruit. The palate was mouthfilling and sweet, and fully textured with soft tannins. This was a solid, but fleshy number. We went 30 years back in time to a 1979 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, a multi-gold medal winner in its time. Lighter, with herb and stalky notes and considerable acidity. Intriguingly this morphed into dark berry fruits and smoke, chocolate and toast in the glass, and then back to the cooler herbaceous side, then to the complex expression again. The good thing was that it was spotlessly clean with no animal or grubby characters. Then a relatively youthful 2001 Lowe Hunter Valley Semillon. Bright light golden, this flowed with waxy, toasty herbal aromas and a soft textured shy-flavoured lanolin-herb and floral palate that suggested it could handle another decade of bottle-age. This was much tidier than the previous bottle a few months ago.
The destination next in line was Europe. The 2006 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Altos de Lanzaga’ Rioja was extremely fine, tight and New Worldy with slick dark red berry aromas and flavours, ultra-smooth and fine tannins, and a healthy dose of cleansing acidity. It could have come from nearly anywhere bar a savoury sweetness that hinted of its origins. We were surprised by how grunty and fleshy the 2006 Ch. Leoville-Poyferre St Julien was. SWMBO was distracted by the detracting brett, but the rest of us were quite accepting of its influence. Ripe enough, with lots of bacony-charry oak that went gamey, then fruity. Another multi wave, multi-layered wine of significant presence.
After a round of pizzas to soak up the savoury whites and hearty reds, we needed palate refresheners, so it had to be Mosel Riesling! The 2009 von Kesselstatt Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett was a beautifully nuance wine with nuances of yellow flowers, and substance. An eye opener because this site usually provides delicacy, cut and steel. Sealed in cork, this may have matured a little more quickly than in screwcap. It overshadowed the 2009 Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, which was tight and a little reductive. That’s what can happen with scewcaps. However, the legendary slate showed through, and we believed this will come right in time.
The night was drawing to a close, so a forage in the cellar found a rare 1975 Cooks Vintage Port. Cabernet Sauvignon-based with a swag of gold medals behind it, this was more the sweeter Portuguese-family style rather than the dry British-family based style. Faded rose colour, with a very fine, elegant, ethereal-fruity nose, the palate balanced sweetness of fruit and sugar with drying tannin grip. The most faint secondary character was beginning to show. Was this still young, or was it just a simpler wine? A tough point to debate, but the essential conclusion was that it was very drinkable. So it was drunk!
It was time to close the departure lounge. The AC Electric Man hopped into a taxi and departed home. The Young New Trader lounged downstairs to retire. We headed upstairs and departed to the land of nod.
Sunday, September 4, 2011
Edgy Drinking
This was not a session where we drank to the edge, but rather, a couple of edgy wines, edgy for various reasons. SWMBO and I regularly keep in touch with Lazza, but haven’t shared a few good bottles of late. It was the perfect opportunity to try out a few wines.
Opening the score was a 2005 Dirler Alsace Riesling ‘Belzbrunnen’, a rarely seen label here, but always worth the search. The Beret had obtained it in a recent visit to the family biodynamic domaine. This was the second bottle I have tried recently, this one broader and shyer than the first, with some toasty development and a touch of gentle oxidation. Quite soft and mellow.
So onto two Pinot Noirs from the same vintage. A 2008 Fromm ‘Clayvin Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, already showing plenty, and surprisingly so, as this label can be reticent, though not as quiet as the sister ‘Fromm Vineyard’ wine. Ripe dark plums, red fruits and dark red florals, with a plumpness and soft, roundness. Delicious stuff indeed. The 2008 Drouhin Griottes-Chambertin GC showed the cooler vintage with elevated acidity and fruit flavours with riper violet and dark cherry and some herb-stalk hints. It was the reduction that polarised us. Combined with the spicy oak, Lazza and SWMBO loved it. I was a little less impressed, but it grew on me. Certainly on the edge of ripeness, the 2008 burgundies need care in choosing.
Dinner was needed, and hearty duck, beef and venison made it onto our plates. Here we had a peppery, spicy, fleshy 2007 Heart of Gold Gisborne Syrah/Tempranillo. Its soft approachability and resolving tannins made it an easy pleasure. What a novel blend for N.Z. Followed by a tight 2009 Terrace Edge Waipara Syrah. This didn’t show much initially, but as usual, by the bottom of the bottle, it began to show aromatics and spiciness. There are some warm spots to grow Syrah down south, and Terrace Edge may be one of them.
Not needed, but opened anyway were two sweeter wines. The 2005 S.A. Prum Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese was everything good about Mosel wine. Poised with intense floral, slatey fruit, luscious sugar, creamy texture and cutting, refreshing acidity, all complexed with some toasty-kero. The bottle was drained with SWMBO as its champion. We did not disagree. Lazza gave a big plug for the 2004 Ch. Climens Barsac as well. Nougat was the overriding impression, and definitely more rich and fulsome than other Barsacs from this vintage. I love the 2004 Sauternes for the elegant proportions.
We all had a glass too much in the final analysis, but we were nowhere near the edge.
Opening the score was a 2005 Dirler Alsace Riesling ‘Belzbrunnen’, a rarely seen label here, but always worth the search. The Beret had obtained it in a recent visit to the family biodynamic domaine. This was the second bottle I have tried recently, this one broader and shyer than the first, with some toasty development and a touch of gentle oxidation. Quite soft and mellow.
So onto two Pinot Noirs from the same vintage. A 2008 Fromm ‘Clayvin Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, already showing plenty, and surprisingly so, as this label can be reticent, though not as quiet as the sister ‘Fromm Vineyard’ wine. Ripe dark plums, red fruits and dark red florals, with a plumpness and soft, roundness. Delicious stuff indeed. The 2008 Drouhin Griottes-Chambertin GC showed the cooler vintage with elevated acidity and fruit flavours with riper violet and dark cherry and some herb-stalk hints. It was the reduction that polarised us. Combined with the spicy oak, Lazza and SWMBO loved it. I was a little less impressed, but it grew on me. Certainly on the edge of ripeness, the 2008 burgundies need care in choosing.
Dinner was needed, and hearty duck, beef and venison made it onto our plates. Here we had a peppery, spicy, fleshy 2007 Heart of Gold Gisborne Syrah/Tempranillo. Its soft approachability and resolving tannins made it an easy pleasure. What a novel blend for N.Z. Followed by a tight 2009 Terrace Edge Waipara Syrah. This didn’t show much initially, but as usual, by the bottom of the bottle, it began to show aromatics and spiciness. There are some warm spots to grow Syrah down south, and Terrace Edge may be one of them.
Not needed, but opened anyway were two sweeter wines. The 2005 S.A. Prum Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese was everything good about Mosel wine. Poised with intense floral, slatey fruit, luscious sugar, creamy texture and cutting, refreshing acidity, all complexed with some toasty-kero. The bottle was drained with SWMBO as its champion. We did not disagree. Lazza gave a big plug for the 2004 Ch. Climens Barsac as well. Nougat was the overriding impression, and definitely more rich and fulsome than other Barsacs from this vintage. I love the 2004 Sauternes for the elegant proportions.
We all had a glass too much in the final analysis, but we were nowhere near the edge.
Friday, September 2, 2011
Going to Some Lengths
I had to travel across the length of the island to reach The Beret and Glam Pam, but it had been on the cards for a number of vintages. Joining us for the evening was The Master, and after a session involving tasting over two dozen wines where The Beret had spent an inordinate amount of time, we settled in for some well-anticipated food.
The call to dinner was NV Nicolas Feuillate Champagne ‘Reserve Particuliere’. It hit the spot, with its good size, good fruit depth and all the right amount of autolysis and fruit in combination. I tend to overlook the label, in favour of the more prestigious, and I shouldn’t.
The main food course was beef, and The Beret pulled out a number of reds he’d brought all the way back from France. Some people go to any length to ensure a good drink! First was a 2004 Rene Monnier Beaune 1er ‘Cent Vignes’. A light vintage, but pretty and delightful, still fruity and fresh to a degree, and with good tannin structure underpinning it all. Nice clean fruit, and all in balance too. A bit more serious was the 2003 A-F Gros Savigny-les-Beaune 1er ‘Clos des Guettes’. This showed the drought harvest with its bright dark red plum fruit aromas and flavours. It is said that the 2003s show the New World ripeness, and this did to its benefit, as Savigny-les-Beaune can be a bit rustic and earthy. Roll-on global warming? And to ensure a balance, there was the 2002 Ch. Sociando Mallet Haut-Medoc. Definite blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon at first, but then the growing appearance of horses and farmyard from brettanomyces. Underneath it was a big wine, and fresh and lively, but this was getting dry and grippy with it.
A treat was a rarely seen 2005 Stentz Alsace Gewurztraminer ‘Cuvee de la Premier Neige’, named after the first snow, and thus a late-harvest wine. Full, golden, luscious honey, Turkish Delight and spices on a rounded unctuously texture beautiful palate. Pretty close to decadence.
The Beret pulled another vinous treat to seal the night. 1985 Calem Vintage Port. Garnet and fading in colour with a lighter bouquet, marked by VA, but seamless and lighter, but really delicious drinking, with just enough spirit cut, resolved tannins and good acidity. It’s nicer to go to port, as it shows you’ve travelled the long way through a good dinner. I could go to some length to drink this again!
The call to dinner was NV Nicolas Feuillate Champagne ‘Reserve Particuliere’. It hit the spot, with its good size, good fruit depth and all the right amount of autolysis and fruit in combination. I tend to overlook the label, in favour of the more prestigious, and I shouldn’t.
The main food course was beef, and The Beret pulled out a number of reds he’d brought all the way back from France. Some people go to any length to ensure a good drink! First was a 2004 Rene Monnier Beaune 1er ‘Cent Vignes’. A light vintage, but pretty and delightful, still fruity and fresh to a degree, and with good tannin structure underpinning it all. Nice clean fruit, and all in balance too. A bit more serious was the 2003 A-F Gros Savigny-les-Beaune 1er ‘Clos des Guettes’. This showed the drought harvest with its bright dark red plum fruit aromas and flavours. It is said that the 2003s show the New World ripeness, and this did to its benefit, as Savigny-les-Beaune can be a bit rustic and earthy. Roll-on global warming? And to ensure a balance, there was the 2002 Ch. Sociando Mallet Haut-Medoc. Definite blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon at first, but then the growing appearance of horses and farmyard from brettanomyces. Underneath it was a big wine, and fresh and lively, but this was getting dry and grippy with it.
A treat was a rarely seen 2005 Stentz Alsace Gewurztraminer ‘Cuvee de la Premier Neige’, named after the first snow, and thus a late-harvest wine. Full, golden, luscious honey, Turkish Delight and spices on a rounded unctuously texture beautiful palate. Pretty close to decadence.
The Beret pulled another vinous treat to seal the night. 1985 Calem Vintage Port. Garnet and fading in colour with a lighter bouquet, marked by VA, but seamless and lighter, but really delicious drinking, with just enough spirit cut, resolved tannins and good acidity. It’s nicer to go to port, as it shows you’ve travelled the long way through a good dinner. I could go to some length to drink this again!
Monday, August 29, 2011
A Sweet Show
It was payback time. Gordy and Perfect P have been extremely kind to SWMBO and me over the last couple of years and no matter how much we have tried to repay the hospitality, we always seem indebted to them. So this time, we were to take them to a show. Not just any show, but a special one that would WOW them. And they accepted our invitation.
Before we headed out, we thought we’d try a new 2011 Brancott Estate ‘B’ Marlborough Noble Sauvignon Blanc. Initially I thought it would be a modestly sweet wine, as the spec. sheet said 23.2 g/L residual sugar. I thought it would be a lovely, mildly sweet intro to the night’s proceedings. On opening and sipping, it was a gloriously full-blown luscious and hedonistic number, showing only a vestige of varietal character and massive, but beautiful botrytis marmalade notes, We didn’t finish the bottle as I thought it prudent to preserve ourselves for what lay ahead…..
The show was indeed a WOW, and everything we had said it would be to our guests. We left feeling sweet so decided to cap the show with a glass and nibble. Along the waterfront to a Hip Hotel, where a 2006 No. 1 Family Estate ‘Cuvee Virginie’ Methode Taditionnelle appeared. This combines richness, intensity and size with finesse and layers of bready, yeasty complexity and seems to be coming more and more seamless. Great with the sashimi served.
We walked down the road and saw a Humming Place that beckoned. A number of tapas plates were ordered, and the wine to have was 2010 Te Whare Ra ‘Toru’, a Marlborough blend of Gewurz, Riesling and Pinot Gris. The perfumes stood out for me, with good acid zip, and a sweetness that went with anything remotely hot or spicy. What a nice combination of varieties.
Even though we were near replete, I led the group to a place my Ancestors would be happy with. Asian of course! And there we had a selection of Chinese desserts. Weirdly sweet, and challenging. Our wine choice was equally odd and provocative, a 2008 Telmo Rodriguez ‘MR’ Malaga, a mountain bush vine Moscatel wine at 13.5% alc. Lovely clarity of fruit, but touched with a savoury note for interest, and sweet, but not obviously overly so. It had its own character and stood up against the different desserts.
Then off home. But Gordy had a sweet surprise for us. Served blind, of course. Deep golden, mature orange in colour. Full, aged, harmonious, decadent waxy Semillon, botrytis and oak, and a trace of oxidation. Soft, lush, weighty and fully integrated, maybe a little too low in acid. Molten barley sugar with a little burning and just turning a little funky. It turned out to be a 2003 Ch. Rieussec Sauternes. I thought it placed in the 1990s and very developed. These 2003s are coming along quickly.
What a sweet wine showing the night turned out to be. And we still owe Gordy and Perfect P!
Before we headed out, we thought we’d try a new 2011 Brancott Estate ‘B’ Marlborough Noble Sauvignon Blanc. Initially I thought it would be a modestly sweet wine, as the spec. sheet said 23.2 g/L residual sugar. I thought it would be a lovely, mildly sweet intro to the night’s proceedings. On opening and sipping, it was a gloriously full-blown luscious and hedonistic number, showing only a vestige of varietal character and massive, but beautiful botrytis marmalade notes, We didn’t finish the bottle as I thought it prudent to preserve ourselves for what lay ahead…..
The show was indeed a WOW, and everything we had said it would be to our guests. We left feeling sweet so decided to cap the show with a glass and nibble. Along the waterfront to a Hip Hotel, where a 2006 No. 1 Family Estate ‘Cuvee Virginie’ Methode Taditionnelle appeared. This combines richness, intensity and size with finesse and layers of bready, yeasty complexity and seems to be coming more and more seamless. Great with the sashimi served.
We walked down the road and saw a Humming Place that beckoned. A number of tapas plates were ordered, and the wine to have was 2010 Te Whare Ra ‘Toru’, a Marlborough blend of Gewurz, Riesling and Pinot Gris. The perfumes stood out for me, with good acid zip, and a sweetness that went with anything remotely hot or spicy. What a nice combination of varieties.
Even though we were near replete, I led the group to a place my Ancestors would be happy with. Asian of course! And there we had a selection of Chinese desserts. Weirdly sweet, and challenging. Our wine choice was equally odd and provocative, a 2008 Telmo Rodriguez ‘MR’ Malaga, a mountain bush vine Moscatel wine at 13.5% alc. Lovely clarity of fruit, but touched with a savoury note for interest, and sweet, but not obviously overly so. It had its own character and stood up against the different desserts.
Then off home. But Gordy had a sweet surprise for us. Served blind, of course. Deep golden, mature orange in colour. Full, aged, harmonious, decadent waxy Semillon, botrytis and oak, and a trace of oxidation. Soft, lush, weighty and fully integrated, maybe a little too low in acid. Molten barley sugar with a little burning and just turning a little funky. It turned out to be a 2003 Ch. Rieussec Sauternes. I thought it placed in the 1990s and very developed. These 2003s are coming along quickly.
What a sweet wine showing the night turned out to be. And we still owe Gordy and Perfect P!
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