Every year ‘The Shaker’ opens a couple of dozen Champers and after making good notes on the wine, he holds a party so as not to waste them. The invited guests are an eclectic lot, as SWMBO and I are invited. We look the serious types, as we make a note or two, but there are others who know what they are on about. There are some who just like a drink, and before you know it, the bottles are empty! I grade the Champagnes into star-quality, based on the briefest impressions, because if I don’t work quickly, the bottles can be drained. In fact, this year I turned up right on the dot, so as to not waste any time. Here are my impressions, from 3 star, working up to 5 star, not in the order tasted, but alphabetically:
3 Star
Boizel ‘Blanc de Noirs’ – full, dry, yellow fruits soft and fleshy
Cattier – light, clean simple and fresh
Drappier ‘Carte Blanche’ – up-front, open and easy to understand, some good weight
Gardet ‘Brut Tradition’ – lighter expression, correct and clean
Lanvin – crisp, dry and acidic, a bit new, without the development yet
Moet & Chandon Vintage 2002 – soft, gentle, honied, a bit matty
Piper Heidsieck – slight sulphide notes, easy, light and clean
Pommery – a little sulphidic on nose, but with fruitiness – Pinot Meunier showing
Pommery ‘Springtime’ Rosé – up-front, sweetish and light
4 Star
Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ – rich, complex, tight a new shipment
Gardet ‘Brut 1er Cru’ – intense, yeasty autolysis and some complexity
Gardet ‘Brut Selected Reserve’ – nutty, aldehydic, but with intensity and length
Moet & Chandon ‘Brut Imperial’ – delicate, balanced with it all, in a mild-mannered way, but satisfying
Mumm ‘Cordon Rouge’ – lively, clean fresh, simply sweetish and easy
Mumm Rosé – tight with lovely berryish nose, and fresh fruited palate
Louis Roederer ‘Brut Premier’ – tightly bound, crisp and firm, good concentration but not the usual richness, still fresh
Perrier-Jouet ‘Grand Brut’ – soft, floral, fluffy and delisciously accessible
Taittinger ‘Folies de la Marquetterie’- lovely acidity, finesse and length in a slender style
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin ‘Yellow Label’ – medium weight, with fruit and autolysis, everything as it should be, just not starring, but more than satisfactory
Jean-Marc Vigreux-Freres – tight, clean good autolysis in a firm style
5 Star
Ayala ‘Brut Majeur’ – tight and concentrated, serious underneath, but fine
Boizel ‘Brut Reserve’ – rich and fruity, in great proportion with developing complexities
Bollinger Rosé – big boned, with fruit richness and complexing yeast, yet with style
Charles Heidsieck ‘Brut Reserve’ –toasty, rich, soft and mouthfilling
Dom Pergnon 2002 – stunning elegance, finesse, freshness, beautiful acidity and floral aromatics
Jacquesson Cuvee 733 – punchy and tight with funky complexities and interest
Pol Roger ‘Brut Reserve’ – very fresh, clean, delicacy personified, yet real character and depth
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin ‘La Grande Dame’ 1998 – powerful and densely constructed with lovely acidity and great complexity
The list and ratings seem right in place for me, and my usual perspective. There are always some surprises, due to how I’m seeing things that day. But also each house can vary, according to how fresh or old the shipment is. Some of the smaller houses vary year to year, and surprisingly the bigger houses can too. C’est la vie! Thanks to ‘The Shaker’.
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Dirty Thirties
After the big day serving drinks and selling bottles, we eventually retired to the A-Prentices to relax. It was all pretty mellow stuff, and SWMBO, the Patroller, the Argentine Angel, and Bexy didn’t seem too bothered to open any more bottles, but rather be content to sip on some that were already opened.
Ah, but what the heck, we gave in to our inquisitiveness and thought we ought to broached a couple of old bottles that didn’t seem to appeal originally. The discussion with Bex was that many of us seem the drink the newer wines, as viticulture and winemaking is improving all the time, and the oldies just don’t cut the mustard. The wine of the past weren’t made with the same understanding of basic hygiene and desire for ripeness. Many oldies just seem to grubby and dirty, with the dreaded ‘B’ word showing up a lot. So we didn’t hold up much hope for the following:
So first up a 1977 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. 34 years old.. Fading garnet with brick. On the nose quite herbaceous and stalky, but also blackcurranty. And a bit earthy and gamey in a secondary way, and not really dirty at all. Phew! The palate was the let-down. Light-bodied, rather thin, drying out and firm in residue. A more commercial wine from a pretty inauspicious year really. So it didn’t do too badly….
We held out even less hope for the Chilean 1974 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon. The Argentine Angel especially didn’t expect too much. After all, the Chileans gave the co-ordinates for the General Belgrano navy cruiser to the Brits, resulting in its sinking. Well, dark garnet with blood and tawny hues, this actually smelt sweet and ripe and that odd, resinous rauli wood they matured wine in then. Soft, integrated, but without too much backbone, as you’d expect, and clean. As it sat in the glass, I could sense decay creeping in. But, a surprise. Not bad for a 37 year old cheapie bought over three decades ago…
Ah, but what the heck, we gave in to our inquisitiveness and thought we ought to broached a couple of old bottles that didn’t seem to appeal originally. The discussion with Bex was that many of us seem the drink the newer wines, as viticulture and winemaking is improving all the time, and the oldies just don’t cut the mustard. The wine of the past weren’t made with the same understanding of basic hygiene and desire for ripeness. Many oldies just seem to grubby and dirty, with the dreaded ‘B’ word showing up a lot. So we didn’t hold up much hope for the following:
So first up a 1977 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. 34 years old.. Fading garnet with brick. On the nose quite herbaceous and stalky, but also blackcurranty. And a bit earthy and gamey in a secondary way, and not really dirty at all. Phew! The palate was the let-down. Light-bodied, rather thin, drying out and firm in residue. A more commercial wine from a pretty inauspicious year really. So it didn’t do too badly….
We held out even less hope for the Chilean 1974 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon. The Argentine Angel especially didn’t expect too much. After all, the Chileans gave the co-ordinates for the General Belgrano navy cruiser to the Brits, resulting in its sinking. Well, dark garnet with blood and tawny hues, this actually smelt sweet and ripe and that odd, resinous rauli wood they matured wine in then. Soft, integrated, but without too much backbone, as you’d expect, and clean. As it sat in the glass, I could sense decay creeping in. But, a surprise. Not bad for a 37 year old cheapie bought over three decades ago…
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Greys and Blacks
An annual gathering at the A-Prentices was the occasion, before the regional festival, and my, has the gathering grown. Bottles galore lined up, with a host of Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs and other varieties and styles. I arrived late, so just managed to work my way through a selection of Pinot Gris and Cabernet Sauvignons before retiring.
A well-awarded 2010 Mud House ‘Home Block’ Waipara Pinot Gris was all correct, and prim and proper, and a delicious starter. Off-dry, with weight and some unctuous textures. Then an explosively fruity 2011 Starborough Marlborough Pinot Gris, just simply an exotic mouthfilling wine that has interest and freshness. A step up in power with flavour restraint was the 2011 Starborough Awatere Pinot Gris, a single-vineyard expression. This bottling has drive and will no doubt develop with bottle age, judging by its constitution and purity.
Then onto the seriously blackcurranty stuff. An intriguingly labelled wine “1” was first broached. Not many clues as to what it was, except the capsule had “Stony Corner” and the back label 2005 red wine of New Zealand. A relabelled Newton-Forrest tier! And sure enough, that iron-core of black fruit with sweet and spicy notes. Quite delicious. A tougher proposition was the 2003 Kennedy Point Waiheke Island Cabernet Sauvignon. Dry, firm, dusty tannins. The classic question: will the fruit last as long as the tannins? My feeling was the extraction will remain dominant. Our friend Beckers had brought along two vintages of the iconic Margaret River Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2004 was indeed an example of its greatness. Ripe, superbly structured, and with a sweetness of varietal fruit with just that little more, a nuance of eucalypt to prove its provenance. The 2005 was more an expression of the variety than place. Firm, archetype blackcurrants, and great concentration with length too. A tad on the austere side, but that’s Cabernet Sauvignon.
Things with Shiraz brought up the end of the evening for me. The 1998 Glovers ‘Springrove’ Shiraz from Nelson was a big number in size and grip, unfortunately tainted by brettanomyces. However, an ancient 1986 Ata Rangi ‘Celebre’ was a revelation. Though herbaceous on the nose, this was sweet and lush to drink, and still with the structure to go somewhere. The finale was a 1.5 Litre 2008 Ata Rangi ‘Celebre’. Fresh, juicy, spicy, wonderful proportion and a joy to drink. Sometimes a magnum bottle is not quite big enough.
A well-awarded 2010 Mud House ‘Home Block’ Waipara Pinot Gris was all correct, and prim and proper, and a delicious starter. Off-dry, with weight and some unctuous textures. Then an explosively fruity 2011 Starborough Marlborough Pinot Gris, just simply an exotic mouthfilling wine that has interest and freshness. A step up in power with flavour restraint was the 2011 Starborough Awatere Pinot Gris, a single-vineyard expression. This bottling has drive and will no doubt develop with bottle age, judging by its constitution and purity.
Then onto the seriously blackcurranty stuff. An intriguingly labelled wine “1” was first broached. Not many clues as to what it was, except the capsule had “Stony Corner” and the back label 2005 red wine of New Zealand. A relabelled Newton-Forrest tier! And sure enough, that iron-core of black fruit with sweet and spicy notes. Quite delicious. A tougher proposition was the 2003 Kennedy Point Waiheke Island Cabernet Sauvignon. Dry, firm, dusty tannins. The classic question: will the fruit last as long as the tannins? My feeling was the extraction will remain dominant. Our friend Beckers had brought along two vintages of the iconic Margaret River Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2004 was indeed an example of its greatness. Ripe, superbly structured, and with a sweetness of varietal fruit with just that little more, a nuance of eucalypt to prove its provenance. The 2005 was more an expression of the variety than place. Firm, archetype blackcurrants, and great concentration with length too. A tad on the austere side, but that’s Cabernet Sauvignon.
Things with Shiraz brought up the end of the evening for me. The 1998 Glovers ‘Springrove’ Shiraz from Nelson was a big number in size and grip, unfortunately tainted by brettanomyces. However, an ancient 1986 Ata Rangi ‘Celebre’ was a revelation. Though herbaceous on the nose, this was sweet and lush to drink, and still with the structure to go somewhere. The finale was a 1.5 Litre 2008 Ata Rangi ‘Celebre’. Fresh, juicy, spicy, wonderful proportion and a joy to drink. Sometimes a magnum bottle is not quite big enough.
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Testing Time
Every year, I have been running a wine options game for special clients, the ‘Beepers’ who are ‘Simply Gruesome’. It’s always organised with panache, and SWMBO and I just come in and conduct it, asking the questions, and we have a lot of laughs doing it. We’ve noticed the standard of tasting ability and wine recognition has steadily risen over time, and it’s definitely not the clues I give them, but I reckon its their abilities and accumulated knowledge. When Len Evans designed the wine options game, I’m sure he had ‘fun and learning’ in mind.
This year’s wines were a selection I enjoyed picking and serving. I get asked what’s my favourite, and I must honestly reply they all seem good to me for what they are! The first served was the 2010 Eradus Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The good 2010s from Marlborough are drinking so well right now, this showing some beany development, but the richness, weight and harmony is something to behold, if you are limiting yourself to current vintage wine. It’s partly the vineyard, partly the winemaking and partly the year, but it all worked. The players did well with this in identifying it. Also well picked by the players was the 2009 Albert Mann Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer ‘Steingrubler’. We had this in July and loved its hedonistic richness. But tonight it was a little closed up and herbal-muscatty. Still with depth and oily textures, this could be one that will age well. Then the wine that fooled and disturbed people. A 2002 Tyrrells ‘Vat 1’ Hunter Valley Semillon. I was told by an eminent Hunter wine judge that you must work at understanding this style. I’m still working at it, and the light must be coming through. Very refined and tight, with gorgeous intricacies of waxy herbal fruit and ethereal tasty oak-like complexities. Bright and fresh with plenty of acid, I can see this going another decade or two! An Aussie in the audience loved it, but she had had prior experience of such things, but it bamboozled the rest of the group.
The ‘Last Man Standing’ game is always fun. In a short time you can whittle 60 participants down to one winner with some well thought-out questions. It took just four questions to get a ‘best taster’ with the 2010 Heart of Gold Gisborne Gruner Veltliner. The wine has come on remarkably in a year, indicating that it can benefit with some bottle age. A year ago, it was on the lighter side, but now the full pepperiness and direct character came through well. Gisborne seems to be successful are a growing region too.
Then onto the reds, starting with a 2008 Penfolds ‘Bin 407’ Cabernet Sauvignon. A very good year for Penny’s as many ‘even number’ vintages tend to be. Ripe, sweet and rounded with density, but also strong blackcurranty flavours. Sure, a meal in itself, but satisfying and it brought a smile to most people’s faces, including ours. It was reasonably identified by most people. The 2009 Charles Wiffen Marlborough Pinot Noir was also easily recognised as a Kiwi Pinot Noir, but hard to pick where it came from. Most said Martinborough or Central Otago. A bit of praise I suppose for Marlborough which tends to get overlooked. Succulent and plummy, without being like a Merlot or Syrah, and very Pinot Noir. A crowd pleaser for sure. The final wine was again fairly difficult to pick. Unless you’re a keen wine aficionado, you wouldn’t fork out for a $100.00 2006 Prunotto Barolo. It was a bit of a star for me. Classical tar and faded roses, with vital acidity and firm tannins. The lovely savoury flavours juxtaposed with sweetness. Looking faded, but capable of a decade plus ahead. And Prunotto is a modern traditionalist, so imagine the real old-fashioned stuff! This pushed the limits a bit for most tasters, but they could see the difference. Old World structure, and food compatibility.
The whole event ran smoothly but took more time than expected. Though we were testing the ‘Simply Gruesome Beepers’, we were tested on the time too. We all passed!
This year’s wines were a selection I enjoyed picking and serving. I get asked what’s my favourite, and I must honestly reply they all seem good to me for what they are! The first served was the 2010 Eradus Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The good 2010s from Marlborough are drinking so well right now, this showing some beany development, but the richness, weight and harmony is something to behold, if you are limiting yourself to current vintage wine. It’s partly the vineyard, partly the winemaking and partly the year, but it all worked. The players did well with this in identifying it. Also well picked by the players was the 2009 Albert Mann Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer ‘Steingrubler’. We had this in July and loved its hedonistic richness. But tonight it was a little closed up and herbal-muscatty. Still with depth and oily textures, this could be one that will age well. Then the wine that fooled and disturbed people. A 2002 Tyrrells ‘Vat 1’ Hunter Valley Semillon. I was told by an eminent Hunter wine judge that you must work at understanding this style. I’m still working at it, and the light must be coming through. Very refined and tight, with gorgeous intricacies of waxy herbal fruit and ethereal tasty oak-like complexities. Bright and fresh with plenty of acid, I can see this going another decade or two! An Aussie in the audience loved it, but she had had prior experience of such things, but it bamboozled the rest of the group.
The ‘Last Man Standing’ game is always fun. In a short time you can whittle 60 participants down to one winner with some well thought-out questions. It took just four questions to get a ‘best taster’ with the 2010 Heart of Gold Gisborne Gruner Veltliner. The wine has come on remarkably in a year, indicating that it can benefit with some bottle age. A year ago, it was on the lighter side, but now the full pepperiness and direct character came through well. Gisborne seems to be successful are a growing region too.
Then onto the reds, starting with a 2008 Penfolds ‘Bin 407’ Cabernet Sauvignon. A very good year for Penny’s as many ‘even number’ vintages tend to be. Ripe, sweet and rounded with density, but also strong blackcurranty flavours. Sure, a meal in itself, but satisfying and it brought a smile to most people’s faces, including ours. It was reasonably identified by most people. The 2009 Charles Wiffen Marlborough Pinot Noir was also easily recognised as a Kiwi Pinot Noir, but hard to pick where it came from. Most said Martinborough or Central Otago. A bit of praise I suppose for Marlborough which tends to get overlooked. Succulent and plummy, without being like a Merlot or Syrah, and very Pinot Noir. A crowd pleaser for sure. The final wine was again fairly difficult to pick. Unless you’re a keen wine aficionado, you wouldn’t fork out for a $100.00 2006 Prunotto Barolo. It was a bit of a star for me. Classical tar and faded roses, with vital acidity and firm tannins. The lovely savoury flavours juxtaposed with sweetness. Looking faded, but capable of a decade plus ahead. And Prunotto is a modern traditionalist, so imagine the real old-fashioned stuff! This pushed the limits a bit for most tasters, but they could see the difference. Old World structure, and food compatibility.
The whole event ran smoothly but took more time than expected. Though we were testing the ‘Simply Gruesome Beepers’, we were tested on the time too. We all passed!
Friday, October 28, 2011
Solid as a Brick
We were in a bit of a party mode and Brickers invited us around to his place for a few wines and a bowl of soup. Brickers is a real card and can draw well as well as tell stories. But just as impressive is how he brings out wines to attract one’s attention.
One of the other invited guests opened their wine first, a 2004 Dagueneau Pouilly Fume ‘Pur Sang’. The wild man of the Loire made the best Sauvignons in the world, consistently – solid as a brick! Pale as ever with the most amazing liveliness and acidity allied to minerals, herbs and stonefruits, I saw some oxidation which seemed to integrate with the wine in the glass. It would be easy to underestimate how this could change for the better, but alas, it went down a treat as it was, so I’ll never know…
A rock solid, blue-chip vintage for Burgundy is 2009. Brickers supplied two. The 2009 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er ‘Cazetiers’ was remarkable soft, supple and sweet. Not like the Faiveleys of old which were all tannin and extract. This had great dark berry fruits with knife-edge char, toast, game and funky brett. If you could handle the horses, it was a revelation. Otherwise, it will only get worse. Next was a much cleaner 2009 Bouchard Pere Volnay 1er ‘Clos des Chenes’. Clean and clinical, without too much personality really. Hard to fault, I would have preferred drinking the previous wine for character alone.
Serious wines were then on the drinks list. The 2009 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape was dark in colour and dark in fruit; raspberries with game, and plump sweetness backed by a serious backbone. Layers of funky interest lurked below the fruit, and I felt this could turn any way and in any time. Rounding off the party was a 2007 Pio Cesare Barolo. The similarity of Nebbiolo to Pinot Noir was not lost on the guests. Of course darker and more severe in fruit, with sour berry and brick and earth too. This was a lighter, elegant but truly traditional in flavour profile, yet modern in accessibility, the tannins supple and sweet and sour in fruit.
We raise a toast to you Brickers, for such generosity! You’re solid as a brick, mate!
One of the other invited guests opened their wine first, a 2004 Dagueneau Pouilly Fume ‘Pur Sang’. The wild man of the Loire made the best Sauvignons in the world, consistently – solid as a brick! Pale as ever with the most amazing liveliness and acidity allied to minerals, herbs and stonefruits, I saw some oxidation which seemed to integrate with the wine in the glass. It would be easy to underestimate how this could change for the better, but alas, it went down a treat as it was, so I’ll never know…
A rock solid, blue-chip vintage for Burgundy is 2009. Brickers supplied two. The 2009 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er ‘Cazetiers’ was remarkable soft, supple and sweet. Not like the Faiveleys of old which were all tannin and extract. This had great dark berry fruits with knife-edge char, toast, game and funky brett. If you could handle the horses, it was a revelation. Otherwise, it will only get worse. Next was a much cleaner 2009 Bouchard Pere Volnay 1er ‘Clos des Chenes’. Clean and clinical, without too much personality really. Hard to fault, I would have preferred drinking the previous wine for character alone.
Serious wines were then on the drinks list. The 2009 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape was dark in colour and dark in fruit; raspberries with game, and plump sweetness backed by a serious backbone. Layers of funky interest lurked below the fruit, and I felt this could turn any way and in any time. Rounding off the party was a 2007 Pio Cesare Barolo. The similarity of Nebbiolo to Pinot Noir was not lost on the guests. Of course darker and more severe in fruit, with sour berry and brick and earth too. This was a lighter, elegant but truly traditional in flavour profile, yet modern in accessibility, the tannins supple and sweet and sour in fruit.
We raise a toast to you Brickers, for such generosity! You’re solid as a brick, mate!
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Family Fare
With members of the family all together, a visit to the Martinborough vignoble was in order. Accompanying SWMBO and myself were Jubes, Mags, Wilco Johnny, Lithe Lisa, Flautist Aaaron and Dave-Man, making a lively party keen to taste wine. The aim was to visit producers run by families, to make the day a family affair.
After a heady drive over the Rimutakas and a settling coffee with muffins, we converged on The Cabbage Tree Vineyard where owner and winemaker David Bull showed us his hands-on artisanal operation. It’s just him and his wife Winifred here. The group liked the riper, subtle, stonefruity and weighty 2008 Cabbage Tree Semillon. I was more taken by the 2008 Cabbage Tree Chardonnay with its bold palate and prominent oaking. Fitting right in the Martinborough mould of ripe, savoury fruit and substance with structure, the 2008 Cabbage Tree Pinot Noir was also well-received. Cool, herb-like flavours marked the bouquet of the 2008 Cabbage Tree Merlot, this redeemed by the milk-chocolate flavours and richness on the palate. This first visit was an excellent and very personal introduction to the delights of wine growing.
The next call was to the BioGro certified Vynfields and a session with the elegant owner Kaye McAulay. The classy setting of the two storey villa was the perfect backdrop. We were the first public to taste their NV Vynfields ‘Bliss’ Sparkling Riesling. Though with 20 g/L rs, this seemed drier, but the same lovely lime and honeysuckle flavours were on show. A 2010 Vynfields Dry Riesling was just that. Dry, minerals and limes and a firm line. The 2009 Vynfields ‘Mad Rooster’ polarised the group, some enjoying the savoury spicy confected flavours, the others finding it too rustic. There was no doubt about the stylishness of the 2010 Vynfields Pinot Noir, with its excellent fruit depth and fine, proportioned lines. Talk of organics and biodynamics made us all feel a little more moral and righteous, and we enjoyed our time on the higher ground.
Wine-fuelled hunger drove us to see Marvellous Marvin at the meal-time diner. That refreshed us adequately to continue our vinous journey to meet up with that petit-powerhouse Helen Masters, winemaker at Ata Rangi. This is truly a family concern, with hubby Ben in the background and Clive and Ali, sibling owners all on hand. The new season releases were tasted. A 2011 Ata Rangi Summer Rosé was a benchmark for the style with its bright red fruits and thirst-quenchability. The 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Craighall Chardonnay was as rich and textured, and as complex as the last time I saw it. The new 2010 Ata Rangi ‘Crimson’ Pinot Noir shows its cooler fruit-ripening build up, and was racy and zesty in a fresh and lively way. Much more complete was the 2010 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir. While it shows the vintage too, it is on another plane, or should I say planet? Rounding off the tasting was the 2011 Ata Rangi ‘Kahu’ sticky. Minerals and marmalade, tight and ageworthy, yet already deliciously luscious and decadent.
Our final port of call was the giant of the region, Te Kairanga. Also family-owned, in this case by the Foleys, GM Andrew Shackleton gave us a tour of the impressively functional engine room. Then off to a tasting. The 2010 Te Kairanga Sauvignon Blanc showed very good gooseberryness with some weight and body. A range of Chardonnays was my pick. The 2009 Te Kairanga Chardonnay citrussy and oaky, quite up-front and clear-cut was surpassed by the 2009 Te Kairanga ‘Runholder’ Chardonnay showing more barrel-ferment creaminess and nutty oxidative complexities, which in turn was surpassed by the 2008 Te Kairanga ‘Casarina’ Chardonnay, more complete still. The same progression was seen in the Pinot Noirs, the 2009 Te Kairanga Pinot Noir fruity and linear, quite correct, then a more rich and sweeter 2007 Te Kairanga ‘Runholder’ Pinot Noir, showing some mushroom interest. Even more savoury and gamey was the 2007 Te Kairanga ‘John Martin’ Pinot Noir.
By then it was time to head back home, over the hill, to proceed with the evening activities. They say a family that plays together, stays together. Very true indeed.
After a heady drive over the Rimutakas and a settling coffee with muffins, we converged on The Cabbage Tree Vineyard where owner and winemaker David Bull showed us his hands-on artisanal operation. It’s just him and his wife Winifred here. The group liked the riper, subtle, stonefruity and weighty 2008 Cabbage Tree Semillon. I was more taken by the 2008 Cabbage Tree Chardonnay with its bold palate and prominent oaking. Fitting right in the Martinborough mould of ripe, savoury fruit and substance with structure, the 2008 Cabbage Tree Pinot Noir was also well-received. Cool, herb-like flavours marked the bouquet of the 2008 Cabbage Tree Merlot, this redeemed by the milk-chocolate flavours and richness on the palate. This first visit was an excellent and very personal introduction to the delights of wine growing.
The next call was to the BioGro certified Vynfields and a session with the elegant owner Kaye McAulay. The classy setting of the two storey villa was the perfect backdrop. We were the first public to taste their NV Vynfields ‘Bliss’ Sparkling Riesling. Though with 20 g/L rs, this seemed drier, but the same lovely lime and honeysuckle flavours were on show. A 2010 Vynfields Dry Riesling was just that. Dry, minerals and limes and a firm line. The 2009 Vynfields ‘Mad Rooster’ polarised the group, some enjoying the savoury spicy confected flavours, the others finding it too rustic. There was no doubt about the stylishness of the 2010 Vynfields Pinot Noir, with its excellent fruit depth and fine, proportioned lines. Talk of organics and biodynamics made us all feel a little more moral and righteous, and we enjoyed our time on the higher ground.
Wine-fuelled hunger drove us to see Marvellous Marvin at the meal-time diner. That refreshed us adequately to continue our vinous journey to meet up with that petit-powerhouse Helen Masters, winemaker at Ata Rangi. This is truly a family concern, with hubby Ben in the background and Clive and Ali, sibling owners all on hand. The new season releases were tasted. A 2011 Ata Rangi Summer Rosé was a benchmark for the style with its bright red fruits and thirst-quenchability. The 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Craighall Chardonnay was as rich and textured, and as complex as the last time I saw it. The new 2010 Ata Rangi ‘Crimson’ Pinot Noir shows its cooler fruit-ripening build up, and was racy and zesty in a fresh and lively way. Much more complete was the 2010 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir. While it shows the vintage too, it is on another plane, or should I say planet? Rounding off the tasting was the 2011 Ata Rangi ‘Kahu’ sticky. Minerals and marmalade, tight and ageworthy, yet already deliciously luscious and decadent.
Our final port of call was the giant of the region, Te Kairanga. Also family-owned, in this case by the Foleys, GM Andrew Shackleton gave us a tour of the impressively functional engine room. Then off to a tasting. The 2010 Te Kairanga Sauvignon Blanc showed very good gooseberryness with some weight and body. A range of Chardonnays was my pick. The 2009 Te Kairanga Chardonnay citrussy and oaky, quite up-front and clear-cut was surpassed by the 2009 Te Kairanga ‘Runholder’ Chardonnay showing more barrel-ferment creaminess and nutty oxidative complexities, which in turn was surpassed by the 2008 Te Kairanga ‘Casarina’ Chardonnay, more complete still. The same progression was seen in the Pinot Noirs, the 2009 Te Kairanga Pinot Noir fruity and linear, quite correct, then a more rich and sweeter 2007 Te Kairanga ‘Runholder’ Pinot Noir, showing some mushroom interest. Even more savoury and gamey was the 2007 Te Kairanga ‘John Martin’ Pinot Noir.
By then it was time to head back home, over the hill, to proceed with the evening activities. They say a family that plays together, stays together. Very true indeed.
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
Touring On-Premise
Had a little job at one of our top flight eateries, talking to some of the new staff about the New Zealand wine scene. They were a young, but enthusiastic bunch, and well-trained in their craft, but still relatively uninitiated in wine. The cool, maritime influenced climate, concept of regionality and terroir were discussed in the briefest time, as were the ideas of winemaker signature, plus wine and food synergy. The bottom line was that nothing can be better than to visit the regions and be on the land.
The concept put forward by The Peeler was to taste a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir each from Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough, Marlborough and Central Otago. It was a selection The Peeler put together, and it turned out pretty interesting going on this vinous tour, with these on-premise people. SWMBO turned up in support and helped hold it all together.
First up was the Hawke’s Bay group, and the 2011 Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Sauvignon Blanc was crisp, clean, relatively subdued, but with clear-cut varietal gooseberry flavours. Its stablemate, the 2010 Te Mata ‘Elston’ Chardonnay was a stunner. A combination of concentration with stylish elegance. Grapefruit galore with perfect mealiness and nuttiness, creamy barrel-ferment and crisp, racy acidity, just carrying the flavours for ages. There’s about as much Pinot Noir as there is Cabernet Sauvignon in The Bay, but it figures less than 8% of the region’s plantings, so it was Merlot. The 2009 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Merlot was another outstanding wine. Still dark purple and tightly bound, there was no mistaking the ripeness and richness of the plummy fruit and fine tannin grip. A great showing from these three from the region.
Then onto Martinborough. An interesting older wine came in the form of the 2010 Ata Rangi Sauvignon Blanc, some bean character, but lush and full, still full of sweet fruit and a with a touch of decadence. The 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Petrie Chardonnay also showed some bottle –development character. Savoury fruits, but tight and with linear power. Then a 2009 Porter’s Pinot Noir, quite restrained, but with the expected structure and slightly gamey complexity to the fruit. This had a touch of herbs too, which was both a positive for interest and a negative for indicating a cooler note. The region only makes up less than 3% of the country’s total plantings but the reputation is much bigger. I’ve seen better examples than these, but they weren’t exactly bad!
Marlborough accounts for more than half our plantings, and on that count is our most important region. An even older wine was the 2009 Auntsfield ‘Long Cow’ Sauvignon Blanc. More bean-like, but with considerable fruit sweetness and weight, making it nearly unctuous. An easy wine to underestimate would be the 2010 Mahi Chardonnay. Elegant, citrus and mineral with flinty lees complexities. There’s plenty built in here and I reckon it’ll keep well. Then the surprise find of the day, a 2009 Charles Wiffen Pinot Noir. Chock-full of ripe raspberry fruit, sweet, lush juicy and extremely vinous, with ideal tannin and acid balance. They say Marlborough will be the Pinot Noir engine room, making good quantities of good value, good quality examples. The other regions won’t be able to compare on these three counts taken together.
Then to the far south, Central Otago. As Chardonnay accounts for 4.5% of the plantings and not considered to be ‘there’ yet, we had a 2008 Mt Edward Riesling. This found favour with everyone. Slightly sweet, with citrus and florals and a generous, but not overbearing fruitiness. A touch of honey, but no toastiness yet. The perfect anytime sipper. The 2010 Rippon Sauvignon was one of those raw, complex, wooded styles. Not liked in general, but I thought it a bold wine and good effort. Nettles, spices and nectarines on a substantial palate. The final wine was a 2009 Wanaka Road Pinot Noir, a second label for Mt Edward. Light, supple and friendly, it didn’t have the typical fruit-bomb black cherry fruitiness, but rather, soft red fruits and a more gentle nature.
I think the on-premise folk found it useful. It was a good recap for me, in any event.
The concept put forward by The Peeler was to taste a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir each from Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough, Marlborough and Central Otago. It was a selection The Peeler put together, and it turned out pretty interesting going on this vinous tour, with these on-premise people. SWMBO turned up in support and helped hold it all together.
First up was the Hawke’s Bay group, and the 2011 Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Sauvignon Blanc was crisp, clean, relatively subdued, but with clear-cut varietal gooseberry flavours. Its stablemate, the 2010 Te Mata ‘Elston’ Chardonnay was a stunner. A combination of concentration with stylish elegance. Grapefruit galore with perfect mealiness and nuttiness, creamy barrel-ferment and crisp, racy acidity, just carrying the flavours for ages. There’s about as much Pinot Noir as there is Cabernet Sauvignon in The Bay, but it figures less than 8% of the region’s plantings, so it was Merlot. The 2009 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Merlot was another outstanding wine. Still dark purple and tightly bound, there was no mistaking the ripeness and richness of the plummy fruit and fine tannin grip. A great showing from these three from the region.
Then onto Martinborough. An interesting older wine came in the form of the 2010 Ata Rangi Sauvignon Blanc, some bean character, but lush and full, still full of sweet fruit and a with a touch of decadence. The 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Petrie Chardonnay also showed some bottle –development character. Savoury fruits, but tight and with linear power. Then a 2009 Porter’s Pinot Noir, quite restrained, but with the expected structure and slightly gamey complexity to the fruit. This had a touch of herbs too, which was both a positive for interest and a negative for indicating a cooler note. The region only makes up less than 3% of the country’s total plantings but the reputation is much bigger. I’ve seen better examples than these, but they weren’t exactly bad!
Marlborough accounts for more than half our plantings, and on that count is our most important region. An even older wine was the 2009 Auntsfield ‘Long Cow’ Sauvignon Blanc. More bean-like, but with considerable fruit sweetness and weight, making it nearly unctuous. An easy wine to underestimate would be the 2010 Mahi Chardonnay. Elegant, citrus and mineral with flinty lees complexities. There’s plenty built in here and I reckon it’ll keep well. Then the surprise find of the day, a 2009 Charles Wiffen Pinot Noir. Chock-full of ripe raspberry fruit, sweet, lush juicy and extremely vinous, with ideal tannin and acid balance. They say Marlborough will be the Pinot Noir engine room, making good quantities of good value, good quality examples. The other regions won’t be able to compare on these three counts taken together.
Then to the far south, Central Otago. As Chardonnay accounts for 4.5% of the plantings and not considered to be ‘there’ yet, we had a 2008 Mt Edward Riesling. This found favour with everyone. Slightly sweet, with citrus and florals and a generous, but not overbearing fruitiness. A touch of honey, but no toastiness yet. The perfect anytime sipper. The 2010 Rippon Sauvignon was one of those raw, complex, wooded styles. Not liked in general, but I thought it a bold wine and good effort. Nettles, spices and nectarines on a substantial palate. The final wine was a 2009 Wanaka Road Pinot Noir, a second label for Mt Edward. Light, supple and friendly, it didn’t have the typical fruit-bomb black cherry fruitiness, but rather, soft red fruits and a more gentle nature.
I think the on-premise folk found it useful. It was a good recap for me, in any event.
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