Comfortable in One's Skin

We're pretty relaxed and mellow with The Chairman and Marvellous Marie. Being taken to new sites and shops, enjoying some good food and drinking nice wines, we are in a comfort zone. When you're like that everything in life seems to be a little better. Certainly our hosts are comfortable in their skin. The wines that have appeared on the table have also been comfortable in their skin - they taste as good as they should, and even better.....

An NV Pol Roger Champagne served, looked as good any bottle from this house I've tasted. There have been a couple of disappointments in recent times, where the NV has been over-elegant. The 2000 Vintage last month was aldehydic and a bit brutish. Not this NV, it was rich, flowing with layers of fruit and autolysis, and showing substance in the nicest way. The Chairman said it was fresh stock too, rather than coming from rested stock in his cellar. It restored my faith in Pol Roger after some niggling doubts.

Then a 2007 Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese #12, supremely pure, subtle, yet with gentle richness and sweetness. The Schaefers are operating at their modern best, everything consistent. When you know what you're doing, there is an extra element of seamlessness, and this bottle was that. Impressive delicacy.

The Chairman has been involved in wine production a very long time, and he can turn out nicely constructed wines or those that can be regarded as super-premium. A 2010 Miner's Folly Chardonnay from the Upper Hunter Valley came out too cold. I thought it a bit hard and distraught. Warming up, it settled into itself, to show a flinty, crisp, dry wine with length. Exactly what The Chairman wanted to create, a value-oriented, modern, Chablis-like style. He was confident and comfortable it would show that way, and it did.

There's always plenty of talk about how Bordeaux varietals overpower Sangiovese in the Super Tuscan genre. One of the originals, Tignanello has been doing it for over three decades and has got the formula down pat. The blend of 85% Sangiovese 15% Cab Sauv. with barrique aging, partly new works well with the fruit. Purists say its gone out of Tuscany, others say it's still there, in another guise. Whatever. It drinks well and is truly at ease with itself. The 2000 Antinori Tignanello was indeed a mix of Bordeaux flavour and tannin with sweetness, savoury cherries and good acidity that was Tuscan. While it was both, it was neither. Deliciously juicy, very approachable, but with restraint for food. The structure built in glass while drinking, keeping it very food-friendly. Its balance meant another decade in bottle was easily possible.

And then to match the after-dinner number we were shown a few nights before, out came a Seppelts 'D62' Museum Muscat. Lighter mahogany but still with green edges, the raisin, grapey, figgy, sultana decadence had a fiery, but fine acid cut, providing elegance, line and length. New material had been blended in, but there was no awkwardness at all. As complex as you'd ever want it to be, but just at another end of the spectrum in mouthfeel from the 'D64' Tokay the other night, with its acid zing and liveliness. We settled into a comfortable evening of sipping and solving the world's problems.....

New Normals

Our catch up with The Chairman and Marvellous Marie as they settle into a new phase of life was very pleasing. New situations become the norm, and it also may be analogous to happenings that may be occurring in the Aussie wine industry. There seem to be questions on how traditional wine styles made are now less in tune with modern life, and the desire to be up-to-date vies with how tradition should be kept. I see both paths important. Wines should be great to drink with contemporary food, and be healthy, but the styles of the past are so characterful.

A good starting point was the NV Mumm 'Cordon Rouge' Champagne Rose. Mumm has cleaned up its act and put some real fruit and yeasty autolysis back into the wines, the Rose deliciously soft and rich with the faintest red wine fruit and texture. Drinking now and great as an aperitif. If they didn't keep up with todays needs, they would have been gobbled up (again).

The Aussie starting point was a 2009 Pikes 'Traditionale' Clare Valley Riesling. Instead of being hard, tight, firm and needing time for full accessibility, this was softer, less acidic and more elegant. Only 12.0% alc., and gently dry. This makes it approachable and broachable. Next in line was the 2008 Shaw+Smith 'M3' Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. Delightfully elegant, and not overly lush, tropical or sweet, but if anything, restrained and with reined-in complexity. Very European in structure, and very food-friendly. And without too much of those 'in-vogue' complex sulphides. I like the 2009 of this too, broader and a little richer, maybe more forward and open. These two seem to be pointing the way to a new norm with the varietal styles, and there is the same movement with Barossa Shiraz.

Maybe the Shiraz and indeed backbone reds need the modern outlook. A Wine Society-made 2008 Razor's Edge McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon was old-fashioned, what used to be consumer-friendly, sweet and jammy and a little to sickly for fresh drinking. Maybe good with heavily reduced sauce and hearty roasted red meat with lots of glaze. We don't eat this type of meat that often nowadays. Don't get me wrong; it was nice, but a relook at the everyday red style here would be a positive?

But to give credit to the unmatchable of tradition, a Seppelt 'D64' Museum Tokay was glorious. Dark mahogany with the prized-green edge. Dense and concentrated with molasses, preserved prunes and balsamic-like character, rather than the tea and fish-oil ethereal style, this could be left to mature in cask another half century to become even more complex and layered. I wouldn't mess with this time-honoured style!

Hard Yards with Old Chards

They've been sitting there, in the corner for a very long time. For one reason or another, we just didn't want to open them. Of course, the longer they were left, the less appetizing they looked. We bit the bullet. Some old New Zealand Chardonnays, ranging from 1996 back to 1984. You see, you wouldn't really blame us for not going there.....we knew it could be hard yards tasting these.....

The opener was the 1996 Villa Maria PB Gisborne Chard. One of SWMBO's and it was good in its time, punching above its weight. 13.0% alc, aged in French and U.S. oak. You could easily see why it was a PB, and not a Reserve. Light, thin, stonefruits, some oxidation through the line. Not much going for it now...

Then a flight of 1992 vintage wines, also belonging to SWMBO. These were good, premium labels 15 years plus ago. And still are, actually. The 1992 Church Road HB Chard at 13.5% alc. The darkest of all the wines. Broad, flat dulled, loads of botrytis-like characters interwoven with oxidation and oak. OTT for sure. Should have been opened 15 years ago. Then a 1992 Corbans Marlb. Chard, 14.0% alc. 12 months in oak and MLF. Very fine in structure still. Tight, minerally, some oxidation and a little grubbiness. They were tight, crisp, powerful and funky then too. Then the 1992 Villa Maria Reserve Marlb. Chard. From the Waldron and Fletcher sites, still going today. 13.0% alc., 5 months in barrique and 25% MLF. This was the time that Grunter made the wines, in the sleek mould. Golden, full, over-ripe tropical fruit, clean, and way past its best, but not oxidised. A revelation as these Villa Maria wines can be. Gold medal at the 1993 Easter Show. Complex and just drinkable. Funny how the judges then could pick 'em!

Two 1987s followed. The 1987 Ngatarawa 'Alwyn' HB Chard, elegant and just a little attenuated. This was the suspicion at the time, and it still looked it. Refined in its day, and still so, but spoilt by oxidation. 13.0%. Alwyn was ahead of his time understanding the variety, like John Hancock. The 1987 Montana Marlb. Valley Chard was lighter in colour, vinous, dull and flat, with what we called the 'Montana Squirt' - the all pervading 'sameness' regardless of the variety. One theory was that the tanks were so big that there was still a portion of whatever else had been made in it, and the next lot picked and fermented was just added on top! We were cynics then! 12.0% may have been generous on the label.

Last wine was truly a slice of history. A 1984 Kaituna Hills Marlb. Chardonnay, one of the fancy 'Winemakers Selection' wines from Montana that were expensive and hard to access. Revolutionary for such a big company to allow winemakers to play. Stainless-steel fermented, then 3 months in new medium-toast Nevers oak. 11.0% on the label tells it all. Herbal and not really ripe. And understandable, but not forgiven, note of oxidation. Hard work to try these. But it was worth it, as some raised a few eyebrows.

Festive Selection

The weekend was a busy one, with One Wheel Mike and The Baker in town, and along with Mags and Stumper, we headed over the hill to stay at the House of Hospo. Attending a wine festival set us in a great mood, and when we all settled back at our digs, we tried a few refreshing vinos to celebrate us all getting together, yet again. Having an amble among some vineyard plants was on the agenda, as well as celebrating Adam The Man's birthday. So we kept it all quite seemly...

An NV Laurent Perrier Brut set the scene. Always an enigma to me. Sometimes light and inconsequential, other times beautifully floral, elegant and refreshing. This bottle was in the latter camp, and had a bit of time on cork, which surprised us. We had a 2000 Pol Roger Vintage next. Darker in colour, heavier in aldehydes and oxidation. Not quite the finesse that Pol Roger normally displays. Was this bottle sitting upright on the shelves too long? Was there a reason it was sitting there, all on its lonesome, when we recently purchased it? Ah, the vagaries of Champagne, if you get into the minutiae if tracking its provenance.....

The whites were a study of richness. A new release 2009 Yves Cuilleron St-Joseph Blanc 'Lyseras' 50% Marsanne/50% Roussane. Dumb at first, but opening to show an exotic Viognier-like expression, with nice oak spice. A 2009 Terrace Edge Waipara Pinot Gris, just got richer, denser and more decadent in its restrained 15 g/L rs way. A bit of a steal, really. Then the new 2010 Dry River 'Lovat' Gewurztraminer, delicate, but creeping up in opulence and perfumes. It should develop well in bottle. A real statement was the 2008 Pegasus Bay 'Aria' LH Riesling. Honey, marmalade, limes, sweet, but just not cloying. A wow wine that can only be sipped at moderate pace, but then you can't stop...

Then a range of reds that is what wine celebration is all about. The 2002 Ata Rangi Martinborough Pinot Noir, lush and juicy still, but banging on the fungal drums with its secondary development. Getting on for me, but of real delight to many present. 25 years is a lifetime in New Zealand viticulture and winemaking terms, and the 1985 Babich Hawke's Bay Cabernet/Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings showed it perfectly. The Cab/Merlot was light, cool, stalky and herbal, but clean and remarkably fresh, and just drinkable. The Cabernet Sauvignon was a bit dirty, microbial?, but weighty and textured, with more balance. Take your pick, because we didn't get into them. Two 2000 vintage wines were much more interesting. The 2000 Mills Reef 'Elspeth One', a blend of Cab Sauv., Cab Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Syrah, was released as the flagship. SWMBO and I received a bottle as a gift. Still in good condition with a complex range of fruit flavours, but savoury, red berry and spices all together, somewhat lifted by some volatility. Tannins beginning to resolve. But no hurry. This alongside a 2000 Hardy's 'Thomas Hardy' Cabernet Sauvignon from Margaret River & Coonawarra fruit. Varietal blackcurrants, mixed with eucalyptus and mint and a hearty whack of spicy oak. All contained by a fearsomely tannic-building palate. Surprisingly inviting and drinking pretty well, really. But all of these were overshadowed by the mighty 1996 E&E 'Black Pepper' Barossa Shiraz. I'd love to try this with 1996 Grange. The E&E would be smoother, sweeter, more lush and juicy. And the Grange would be more structured and dense. But there wouldn't be much in it in enjoyment. We'd probably go for the former because it'd be more accessible, but still have the depth, power and potential to develop. It was a festival in itself!

In-Built, On the Line and Waiting

These are three phrases that seem to represent the phases and life situation I've been experiencing lately. My work and indeed SWMBO's is based on the abilities we have acquired or have built within ourselves. We've put our livelihood and lives on the line by trusting and having faith in ourselves. My new venture is based on the modern airwaves - 'on-line' (now that's a pun!) But in truth we've been waiting to do it, and should have done it earlier. Our friends have told us this, and have been waiting for the fruits of my labour to show.
All of this came into focus when we had a surprise visit from Gordy. He's a bit of an inspiration for us, and indeed many other people with his tenacity, passion, and dry sense of humour. He is only the best, so only the best is good enough for him, as far as we are concerned.

To mark his visit, we opened a 1975 Ch. Margaux from the commune of Margaux, of course, and the three phrases seemed applicable to the wine as well. Dark as anything, but with mahogany hues to the colour, this was a solidly constructed wine with power, flesh, fruit and depth. While it showed those savoury, earthy, cedary signs of secondary development, it was remarkably clean, fresh, lively, with vitality and in a way, focus. No hint of the dreaded horsey brett. Tannins dissolved away, but remarkably structured and robust. Certainly less expressive of the commune of Margaux, and more a representation of the 1975 vintage with its size. This was a tough year in its time, the firm tannins needing decades to come into balance. The tannins have. There are certainly none of the ethereal perfumes or feminine touches, but more a matriarchal stance, and possibly masculine. If I had to pick a commune, we all said a cross between Pauillac and Graves. Whatever. At 36 years old it was on its plateau. It would stay on it for another 36 years easily. This is the sort of wine that makes you think of the young ones still with development ahead of it in those massive retrospective vertical tastings going back to the 1800s. In the final analysis, lacking the nuance and layers to be a great wine, but remarkable for its true claret character, robustness and longevity in the modern appreciation of that quality. This was before the Mentzelopoulos family ownership, and in times of a rather dull, forced ownership.

As a first growth it had all the in-built quality criteria and factors. terroir and pedigree. These were put on the line by the less-inspired management and a serious, challenging backward vintage came into play upon opening, thankfully. It's inherent personality was waiting all the time. Only $62.37 when I bought it 29 years ago.

Take a Step Back

Often, one enjoys life better if you take a step back and relax, seeing a bigger picture. And so too with wine, as it is all to easy to be over analytical and over critical of something design to give pleasure. First impressions can prevent you giving things a chance...
A new 2010 Sileni Estates 'The Priestess' Hawke's Bay Pinot Gris seemed a little too delicate on initial impressions, but with air time and some warming up from fridge-cold, the subtle flavours of fruit and barrel-ferment came out. It just needed patience and an open attitude on our part.
Then a reductive 2009 Spade Oak Reserve Gisborne Viognier, sealed in screw-cap rather than the usual Vino-Lok. It just seemed ugly and hard. I didn't want to sip it. But with breathing and warming up, as well as some nice cheeses and nibbles that SWMBO put on the table, the wine showed its exotic personality, weight and oily texture. A gorgeous drop indeed.
Final sip on this occasion was a 1999 Ata Rangi 'Arapoff' Syrah in half-bottle. Drawing the cork, the horsey smells signalled red-alert - Brettanomyces! The colour was browning, the nose dense with stale horses. We were a little worried what our JanSki our guest would think. But pouring it out, the spices, warm brown earth and pepper featured above the brett. The palate sweet, and with good acid. Fine tannins, just hinting at dryness. We caught this in time. And a great easy drop with the food again. Glad to have taken a step back anf drink and enjoy these wines, seeing what they really were.

Gathering

When you gather around three dozen people together, it's not easy making a bottle get around everyone, so SWMBO and I bring a 1.5 Litre magnum each. Our contributions seemed to garner a bit of interest. The 2007 Ch. Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc Pessac-Leognan made a few realise that spicy oak and exotic herbal, gooseberry fruit can worth together. Bordeaux is one of those places where it can come into harmony and interest, and this bottle had a subtle nature, yet real depth and concentration in a soft way. The 2006 Ridge 'Lytton Springs' was plummy, blueberry, with jam and compote, but in a classy expression. The Zinfandel variety isn't one for classical elegance, but Ridge could be a contender for doing it that way. Warm, soft tannins and a youthfulness all made it a 'nice' drink.

Lots of 750 ml bottles were brought to the gathering, and we only got to see a few of them. The 2003 Jaboulet Saint-Peray 'Sauvageres' was a bit stolid in a pure way. This was, after all Marsanne from a hot region in a hot and dry year. This taken on board, it was a miracle that it was still young and 'tight'. The other Rhone was an oldie. 1995 Delas Hermitage 'Tourette'. A clunky wine full of bottle-stunk black red fruits. However, this began to show some of its Syrah earth, game and fruit in the glass. Plenty of structure around it all still, in a rounded way.

An interesting pair were the 1993 Wynns 'Black Label' and 1993 'John Riddoch' Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignons. The first still dark coloured, a little herbaceous, plenty acidic, and tannins resolving. The latter marked by a truck load of new wood, and much more extract. But the hard acid making its mark.

An even better twosome was the traditional Burgundy vs Burgundy comparison. The 2002 J.F. Mugnier Bonnes Mares very pale, with a mass of powdery tannin and restrained forest-floor and red-dark fruits somewhere in it. For a great year, this was all locked up and not showing any sweetness. However, we've learned that Mugnier had been working on the vineyard, becoming happy with it from 2005. More attractive was the 2002 Ch. Pichon Baron. Darker, of course, deeper, concentrated, but now mellowed out. Cassis and cedar, with firm grip. Now showing how light 2002 was. Why do we always go for the so-called 'best years', when these lighter years are really delish?

A couple of modern Aussies passed our way. A 2005 Briarose Margaret River Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. Dark fruited, plenty of life, though some brett hinted. Not so good was a 2005 Lowe Reserve Shiraz from the Mudgee. Fruit gone west, and a muddled, muddy wine. We were told it was organic/biodynamic, but the wine has to be good.....to go further!

We had a mini-gathering in the Chairman's room later with the Show Queen and Lady Chairman. A delightful 2002 Mumm Vintage Champagne flowed, teased and refreshed us while the conversation ranged. Finishing the big day with a 2005 Nicolas Potel Pommard 'Vignots', full and rounded with dark fruits, no inkiness, tar or chocolate. Just pure fruit. It was fabulous how accessible this was too, considering the commune and vintage provenance.