It’s a remarkable occasion when Gordy and Dynamic Jim get together to promote nervy and steely white wines, but they did, and it was by all accounts a popular event. SWMBO and I didn’t attend, but we did catch up for a meal at our favourite Asian eating house, with Nix and Vix, Timbo and Happy Holly.
The Asian cuisine seems to suit white wine more, and we had three pairs to try. Riesling came first, with a 2010 Pratzner ‘Falkenstein’ Sudtirol example. Not many of us had tried Italian Riesling before, but its origins, near the Austrian border made its style felt. 14.5% alc., but not overbearing or hot. Well-defined limes and florals and a little hint of apricotty botryris? Shy at first, but building to a crescendo, with body, depth and all-important cut. Pleasing wine indeed. The 2009 Mount Edward Central Otago Riesling was considerably lighter, and softer, with a hint of honey and toasty secondary development sneaking into the equation. Also pleasing, but overshadowed. The Riesling variety seems to have fine acidity on the best of days, and and today was one of them.
Two Loire wines on the scene next. A 2009 Marc Bredif Vouvray, absolutely pristine and pure with white florals and white stonefruits. A little sweet lusciousness to tempt and tease. Quite a delight, but more than that, some substance. My favourite of the whites, and I guess also Dynamic Jim’s. The wine it was paired with was the least favourite, a 2008 Nicolas Joly ‘Les Vieux Clos’ Savennieres. A surprising 15.0% alc. on the label, and waxy-oxidised. Powerful underneath and a little too much phenolic texture. Maybe it was the wrong day to open this biodynamic wine? This seems to be Joly’s way, and breathing does help, Chenin Blanc is the King of Acidity, yet these were not searingly so.
Then two mis-matched whites, but both workable with the food. First a 2008 Domaine Latour-Giraud Meursault ‘Cuvee Charles Maxime’. Near excellent citrus and mealy flavours with good boldness and balanced barrel work, and surprise, surprise, no ‘complex’ sulphides. But a load of acidity present and in the end dominant. Gordy and I understood its leanness, and I guess he liked it too. The 2009 Albert Mann Alsace Grand Cru Furstentum Pinot Gris was a big softy after all these wines with nervosity. Actually quite quiet, but with a rounded weighty mouthfeel, and ripe stonefruit characters. Not the exotics or spices that this label has shown in previous years.
We headed back home to continue with some aged reds. I found four 1986 New Zealand Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blended reds to open. Trepidation and nerves required here! These are now over a quarter of a century old, and the viticulture wasn’t what it is now. First of these was a 1986 Villa Maria ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon, 60% Cabernet from Auckland and 40% Merlot from Kumeu. Dark, deep, edgy with green fruit hidden by spicy oak. But also with a clean, sweetness of flavour, still quite alive and drinkable. The 1986 CJ Pask Cabernet/Merlot was a star wine in the very first Cuisine magazine and one of the first Gimblett Gravels Bordeaux-varietal reds. Softer, plump, and a little diffuse with it, and a hint of something decrepit lurking but not really showing nasties yet. Acceptable stuff, rather past its best, with residual fruit sweetness. Then the classic pairing from Te Mata Estate. The 1986 Te Mata ‘Awatea’ Cabernet/Merlot, real depth and liveliness of dark curranty fruit, and still in good proportion with tannin structure and maybe a tad too much acidity. The oaking coming through too. A real surprise as 1986 was a year where the Te Mata wines showed less concentration than usual, and thus are the most forward and loose, compared with the vintages around it. The 1986 Te Mata ‘Coleraine’ strangely lighter in colour, lighter in aromatics, more red fruits with savoury cedary complexities, and a washed out character on palate. Could be interpreted as ethereal, but against the ‘Awatea’, this bottle was a lesser wine. The good outcome was that all were still sound’ and drinkable. The Te Mata ‘Awatea’ and Villa Maria with attraction. All 1986s here with a nervy edge though, but we got over the nervousness about how bad they could have been.
Two serious reds followed. It was getting late at night and a steely constitution was needed. Chateau Montrose, the Second Growth of St Estephe was a more robust and gutsy wine 30 years ago. But it was then, as it is today, a bona-fide collectable Bordeaux red. The 1981 Ch. Montrose St Estephe, light and herby-stalky blackcurranty and without any undue secondary or tertiary development. Slightly lean, and only medium-bodied, but clean and lively, and a good tannin thread. As Gordy said, it could have sat amongst the 1986 N.Z. reds and not looked too out of place, though the fruit was less mature in expression. The 1982 Ch. Montrose St Estephe was a much bigger, darker, denser wine, with more ripeness and flesh as well as layers of flavour. Superb on the nose with dark earthy fruits and liquorice with complex leather elements, the palate initially showed plenty of brettanomyces. SWMBO was horrified. But as the wine breathed, it became more integrated, the wine flowing with layers and waves of interesting flavours. Liquorice, plum, game and chocolate, with balsamic and cedar. Still plenty of tannin to resolve, but a fleshiness and juiciness to balance the extract. Timbo, Gordy and I were fans, and SWMBO slowly came around.
The last wine was a 2006 Ch. Doisy Daene Sauternes, such stickies a bit of a tradition to signal the end of the session. Thoroughly modern, up-front and modern, with lush and explosive pineapple flavours of fruit and botrytis. Truly a little sticky and not the fine cut and slight drying alcohol, nor the nerve or steel that one sees in the classic examples of Barsan or Sauternes. But this is Denis Dubordieu the modern thinking man of the region. However we all found it delicious, savouring the richness as we totted off home and to our beds.
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
Monday, February 13, 2012
Maximum Fun
We hadn’t met Max-1-in-a-Million in person before, but we’ve talked and almost got there over the years. He can make good wine too, so it was a pleasure to catch up over a dinner with Natters and friends at the local Asian eatery. The night progressed from a few bottles to a lot of bottles at home base, and we all had maximum fun getting what we could out of them.
Some German Rieslings showed traditional low alcohol and higher residual sugar against some of the new dry styles, the Grosse Gewachs making a good impression. Firstly a 2009 von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett, rather soft and light, and not quite the focus expected, and a touch of reduction detracting. Surprisingly high 10.5% alc. A 2008 Clemens Busch Marienburg Rothenpfad 1GG Riesling Trocken at 12.5% was tight, austere and closed, with huge minerality and purity. Max-1-in-a-Million thought it had shut down since last tasting it. However the 2009 Van Voxlem Altenberg Alte Reben 1GG (a Kanzemer Altenberg) Riesling was stunning. Immense weight and extract, with classy sheen and slippery finesse to balance the size. I’ve thought Van Voxlem’s wines to be a little too firm in the past, but refinement has been incorporated. This was my star of the night.
To finish the drier white scene, Max-1-in-a-Million brought out a 2000 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Vaillon. Fully mature for sure with rounded, integrated chalk and flint with nutty stonefruit core. Weighty and full, without the crisp zing that makes Chablis poised and knife-edge, but still an enjoyable animal.
Aromatic reds were again so intriguing and good. The 2005 Felton Road ‘Block 3’ Central Otago Pinot Noir was ultra-smooth and sleek, with refined secondary flavours totally immersed in the structure. Many 2005s have turned ugly showing their cool streak. Not this. My only criticism was is smaller scale presentation. SWMBO loved it still. Also refined in texture was a pre-release 2010 Escarpment ‘Kupe’ Pinot Noir from Martinborough. The best I’ve seen it yet, with sumptuousness and depth of fruit to match the mouthfeel. The dried herb cooler vintage was evident, but without any detriment. Almost star of the night was a 2005 Bilancia ‘La Collina’ Syrah. Youthful as a current release wine in colour, primary pepper and black berry fruit, and sweetness of fruit. It’s age belied by the suppleness of the tannins and completeness as a wine. I thought it might show a little more funkiness, but the purity quite mind-boggling.
Old reds began with a New Zealand pair of 26 year old wines from the Auckland/Northland region. The 1986 St Jerome Cabernet/Merlot still dark, with blackcurrant varietal and early viticulture characters. But spoilt by a little grubbiness. Still acid and well-structured and grippy. This was liked by Natters. SWMBO and I enjoyed the 1986 The Antipodean, a Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec from Matakana. A wine with a super marketing story that got $100 a bottle out of me quarter of a century ago. Billed as the Ch. Lafite of N.Z. Tonight, quite beautiful and cedary. Loads too much new oak, but not unripe, well- hidden by the oak? Silky smooth, milk chocolate underneath. Still very drinkable…
The Aussie pair were just as interesting and fun to taste. A 1982 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was elegant, still blackcurranty and minty, lively and fresh, with tannins, acid and all else in working order. A treat indeed. Unfortunately the 1981 Wynns Coonwarra Cabernet Sauvignon was oxidised, sour and savoury. No vestiges of fruit left, acid poking through, and tannins faded leaving it flat too. Oh well, win some, lose some.
It was getting into the early hours, so a little sweet treat ended the night/morning. A 2005 S.A. Prum Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese, just beginning to show a hint of honey and toast to florals and limes. Lush, but well-cut by the acid. Not quite as stunning as the last bottle, but still most excellent.
Some German Rieslings showed traditional low alcohol and higher residual sugar against some of the new dry styles, the Grosse Gewachs making a good impression. Firstly a 2009 von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett, rather soft and light, and not quite the focus expected, and a touch of reduction detracting. Surprisingly high 10.5% alc. A 2008 Clemens Busch Marienburg Rothenpfad 1GG Riesling Trocken at 12.5% was tight, austere and closed, with huge minerality and purity. Max-1-in-a-Million thought it had shut down since last tasting it. However the 2009 Van Voxlem Altenberg Alte Reben 1GG (a Kanzemer Altenberg) Riesling was stunning. Immense weight and extract, with classy sheen and slippery finesse to balance the size. I’ve thought Van Voxlem’s wines to be a little too firm in the past, but refinement has been incorporated. This was my star of the night.
To finish the drier white scene, Max-1-in-a-Million brought out a 2000 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Vaillon. Fully mature for sure with rounded, integrated chalk and flint with nutty stonefruit core. Weighty and full, without the crisp zing that makes Chablis poised and knife-edge, but still an enjoyable animal.
Aromatic reds were again so intriguing and good. The 2005 Felton Road ‘Block 3’ Central Otago Pinot Noir was ultra-smooth and sleek, with refined secondary flavours totally immersed in the structure. Many 2005s have turned ugly showing their cool streak. Not this. My only criticism was is smaller scale presentation. SWMBO loved it still. Also refined in texture was a pre-release 2010 Escarpment ‘Kupe’ Pinot Noir from Martinborough. The best I’ve seen it yet, with sumptuousness and depth of fruit to match the mouthfeel. The dried herb cooler vintage was evident, but without any detriment. Almost star of the night was a 2005 Bilancia ‘La Collina’ Syrah. Youthful as a current release wine in colour, primary pepper and black berry fruit, and sweetness of fruit. It’s age belied by the suppleness of the tannins and completeness as a wine. I thought it might show a little more funkiness, but the purity quite mind-boggling.
Old reds began with a New Zealand pair of 26 year old wines from the Auckland/Northland region. The 1986 St Jerome Cabernet/Merlot still dark, with blackcurrant varietal and early viticulture characters. But spoilt by a little grubbiness. Still acid and well-structured and grippy. This was liked by Natters. SWMBO and I enjoyed the 1986 The Antipodean, a Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec from Matakana. A wine with a super marketing story that got $100 a bottle out of me quarter of a century ago. Billed as the Ch. Lafite of N.Z. Tonight, quite beautiful and cedary. Loads too much new oak, but not unripe, well- hidden by the oak? Silky smooth, milk chocolate underneath. Still very drinkable…
The Aussie pair were just as interesting and fun to taste. A 1982 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was elegant, still blackcurranty and minty, lively and fresh, with tannins, acid and all else in working order. A treat indeed. Unfortunately the 1981 Wynns Coonwarra Cabernet Sauvignon was oxidised, sour and savoury. No vestiges of fruit left, acid poking through, and tannins faded leaving it flat too. Oh well, win some, lose some.
It was getting into the early hours, so a little sweet treat ended the night/morning. A 2005 S.A. Prum Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese, just beginning to show a hint of honey and toast to florals and limes. Lush, but well-cut by the acid. Not quite as stunning as the last bottle, but still most excellent.
Saturday, February 11, 2012
Duckling
A surprise visit by Pippa and her new canine pal led to a lively afternoon of chatter and catch up, with an accompanying glass of vino which led to a night out at our friendly Asian eatery. The spontaneity of the occasion was such that first bottles of the rack were taken, and these might normally have not been first-choice if given some more time to pick. They turned out to be duckling wines. Some ducklings are indeed ugly, abut turn into swans, and it’s a miracle when that happens. More often than not, they’re just ducklings that turn into ducks. And that’s good too, as ducks can be delicious!
These two were ducklings. First was the 2009 Framingham ‘Classic’ Riesling 2009. I already like this wine, but another few weeks down the track, in the glass, breathing, opening up and with reasonably mild Cantonese food, it was better. Softly luscious with a beautiful counterpoise of lime and honeysuckle and the barest hints of toast, but the highlight the subtle unctuous texture next to slippery acidity. Perfect to sip on its own, but worked with all we ate.
The 2008 Terrace Edge Waipara Pinot Noir is no longer available, but SWMBO had a spare bottle. Always a little charry-oaky, this flavour combined with the sweet fruit a touch on the awkward side for me, but still very interesting and a good drink. Nowadays, the fruit has gained more secondary forest, mushroom and spice notes, and it has become a tad drier. The oak component stands out a little more. This has grown to have a more forceful personality, knowing where it is heading.
Two wines grown up a little more, from duckling stage to duck. And guess what we ordered from the menu? Roast duck of course.
These two were ducklings. First was the 2009 Framingham ‘Classic’ Riesling 2009. I already like this wine, but another few weeks down the track, in the glass, breathing, opening up and with reasonably mild Cantonese food, it was better. Softly luscious with a beautiful counterpoise of lime and honeysuckle and the barest hints of toast, but the highlight the subtle unctuous texture next to slippery acidity. Perfect to sip on its own, but worked with all we ate.
The 2008 Terrace Edge Waipara Pinot Noir is no longer available, but SWMBO had a spare bottle. Always a little charry-oaky, this flavour combined with the sweet fruit a touch on the awkward side for me, but still very interesting and a good drink. Nowadays, the fruit has gained more secondary forest, mushroom and spice notes, and it has become a tad drier. The oak component stands out a little more. This has grown to have a more forceful personality, knowing where it is heading.
Two wines grown up a little more, from duckling stage to duck. And guess what we ordered from the menu? Roast duck of course.
Monday, January 23, 2012
Summer Fading
There’s a bit of a craze going on at present, called ‘Summer of Riesling’, and it’s a noble one espousing the glories if the superlative Riesling variety. SWMBO and I met the Overlord a few days ago, and he was inspired and inspirational.
An older Riesling came our way, and it was good but now just about to head down the slippery slope. There’s a point when a wine is glorious in hinting at being decrepit, a bit like humans? This was a bottle of 1999 Forrest ‘Vineyard Selection’ Marlborough Riesling, made dry and sitting at 13.0% on the label. OK, I’ve had much older Rieslings and they’ve been eye-opening, but they don’t always do that well. This is a good 13 years on now, and venerable in New Zealand terms. Lemony golden, a little shy and wilted on nose, but nice toast, mineral and kero. Dry to taste, this had that highly-prized exotic custard texture that I love in older Rieslings. Along with it refined toast and kero with mineral infused honey. But also a trace of bitterness from drying out and a little note of oxidation. Knife-edge stuff, fading as the summer will, but well worth a look and one to enjoy now.
An older Riesling came our way, and it was good but now just about to head down the slippery slope. There’s a point when a wine is glorious in hinting at being decrepit, a bit like humans? This was a bottle of 1999 Forrest ‘Vineyard Selection’ Marlborough Riesling, made dry and sitting at 13.0% on the label. OK, I’ve had much older Rieslings and they’ve been eye-opening, but they don’t always do that well. This is a good 13 years on now, and venerable in New Zealand terms. Lemony golden, a little shy and wilted on nose, but nice toast, mineral and kero. Dry to taste, this had that highly-prized exotic custard texture that I love in older Rieslings. Along with it refined toast and kero with mineral infused honey. But also a trace of bitterness from drying out and a little note of oxidation. Knife-edge stuff, fading as the summer will, but well worth a look and one to enjoy now.
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
Cool Change
The summer weather has been superb and indeed a little too warm for full-bodied red wines, so we took our time to cool down. Dinner with the Rhythmic Couple as the sun went down with a corresponding drop in temperature meant we could consider the hearty reds.
The mandatory starter white was a 2002 Schlumberger ‘Princes Abbes’ Alsace Riesling. On the verge of falling over with the tell-tale signs of oxidation hinting, but with a delicious honied character which saved the day. Very good for really what is the base-level wine, but the quality of the variety came through.
Main courses ordered and about to arrive, a sirloin steak was headed my way. The Rhythmic Couple had brought back from Italy a wine that appealed to them, a 2009 Marino ‘Proclamo’ Cilento Aglianico Riserva 2009. Nearly black as black, aromas of fennel, aniseed and liquorice abounded on a fulsome and structured palate. Sweet fruit countered by dry structure, and a real mouthful. I picked up a little TCA cork taint, but it was pretty faint, and some funky game notes gave me suspicions of brett. But no-one else saw these, including SWMBO, who is strong on such matters. A surprising 15.0% alc. on the label, but totally unobtrusive.
The final wine was a 2006 Prunotto Barolo. A lovely elegant wine that especially appealed to SWMBO. But tight and reserved for me. This had all the classic dried roses and tarry notes, with sweet herbs, all cut by good acid. Tannins were a feature, but not fearsome, as can be the case, but then Prunotto are modern at being traditionalists.
The Rhythmic Couple are always treating us, so it was a cool change to cover the cost of their meals. And we shared some interesting and satisfying wines on the way.
The mandatory starter white was a 2002 Schlumberger ‘Princes Abbes’ Alsace Riesling. On the verge of falling over with the tell-tale signs of oxidation hinting, but with a delicious honied character which saved the day. Very good for really what is the base-level wine, but the quality of the variety came through.
Main courses ordered and about to arrive, a sirloin steak was headed my way. The Rhythmic Couple had brought back from Italy a wine that appealed to them, a 2009 Marino ‘Proclamo’ Cilento Aglianico Riserva 2009. Nearly black as black, aromas of fennel, aniseed and liquorice abounded on a fulsome and structured palate. Sweet fruit countered by dry structure, and a real mouthful. I picked up a little TCA cork taint, but it was pretty faint, and some funky game notes gave me suspicions of brett. But no-one else saw these, including SWMBO, who is strong on such matters. A surprising 15.0% alc. on the label, but totally unobtrusive.
The final wine was a 2006 Prunotto Barolo. A lovely elegant wine that especially appealed to SWMBO. But tight and reserved for me. This had all the classic dried roses and tarry notes, with sweet herbs, all cut by good acid. Tannins were a feature, but not fearsome, as can be the case, but then Prunotto are modern at being traditionalists.
The Rhythmic Couple are always treating us, so it was a cool change to cover the cost of their meals. And we shared some interesting and satisfying wines on the way.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling 1981 – 1994
Here are my brief comments of a tasting of some of the earliest Montana Marlborough Rhine Rieslings, the last bottles of these from my old cellar. Most of these wines have been tasted and noted here before, and all are in reality well past their best now, but surprises are always in store. The wines were tasted oldest to youngest and in groups of three:
1981: Deep golden orange colour, this is shy, but with a solid and densely presented nose of slightly spoilt beeswax, not quite clean. Medium-dry, this is rather light in flavour, over-ripe citrus fruits, lozenges, soft in mouthfeel, but still with acidity. Honied notes on the aftertaste. This has residual honey characters showing some integrity. 10.5% alc. 13.0/20
1982: Deep golden orange with a little yellow. This shows sharp oxidation on bouquet, some caramel coming through. Medium-sweet to taste, a honey and oxidative amalgam remains on palate along with crisp acidity. There is good mouthfeel, but unfortunately the oxidation is too prominent. Front label deteriorated, alcohol % unreadable. 12.0+/20
1983: Deep golden orange colour. Some TCA and soft oxidation to the fore, but with nuances of toastiness and a little kero. Medium-dry, this has an elegant proportion and fine textured mouthfeel and core. Toasty elements with oxidation, but still with acid vitality. This bottle faded and probably tainted. Past low shoulder ullage equivalence. 11.5% alc. 10.5/20
1984: Deep golden orange colour, the nose has an unusual mix of herbaceous, sappy and herbal aromatics alongside lozenge and caramel, and a nuance of oxidation. Off-dry, this is light-bodied, thin, herbaceous in flavour with harsh acidity. Weak and watery in the wine department, and reflecting the cool vintage, but curiously not dead. Unpleasant. 11.5% alc. 9.5+/20
1985: Bright golden-yellow with lemon hues. This has a soft, gentle and integrated nose with wild honey and toast notes, building in depth. Medium-dry, this features succulent honey and sherbet flavours with toast, underlined by clean, soft acid. Quite complete and without overly broad, this is extremely developed, but still very attractive. This became dry with air time. 12.0% alc. 18.5-/20
1986: Deep golden orange in colour, not bright. The bouquet is marked by sherryish oxidation, quite firm and hard. Medium on palate, oxidation rules, but there is a lively sweetness and succulence from an esters lift that provides a modicum of appeal. 12.0% alc. 12.0/20
1987: Light golden yellow colour, this has freshness and an elegance on bouquet, honey, toast and some dried flowers. Medium in sweetness, there is some weight and a core to the palate line, with flavours of honey, sherbet and esters, the acidity quite soft. A touch drying on the finish, but in remarkable condition, showing no oxidation. 12.0% alc., 13 g/L rs, TA 7.5 g/L, pH 3.38. 17.5-/20
1988: Deep, orange gold in colour, the nose is sharp and oxidised, and quite light in expression. Medium-dry, this is very light in weight, but showing honey and lozenge flavours and burnt honey, the oxidation present, but not rampant. Good acidity carries the finish with length. Cyclone Bola vintage, with a little effect in Marlborough only. 12.0% alc., 12 g/L rs, TA 7.5 g/L, pH 3.4. 11.0-/20
1989: Deep, golden orange colour, this has a full, broad and open nose of caramel and toffee, with over-ripe tropical fruits, suggesting botrytis. Medium in sweetness, the palate is soft and gently presented, showing light and attractive flavours of toffee and burnt honey, a little flabby, but with residual acidity. No noticeable oxidation, but the fruit has pretty much faded. 12.5% alc., 14 g/L rs, TA 7.5 g/L, pH 3.4. 15.5/20
1990: Light golden-orange colour with yellow hues. This has a light honied nose with notes of caramel and an element of oxidation. Medium-dry and light weighted, honey and toast flavours feature, and attractive caramel notes emerge. The palate verges on thinness and the acidity is somewhat flat, but the softness and delicacy are positives. 11.5% alc., 13 g/L rs, TA 7.1 g/L, pH 3.2. 12.5/20
1991: Bright, light golden yellow colour. The nose is composed of yellow florals with honey, alongside notes of toast with fresh herbs. Medium-dry to taste, this is an elegantly proportioned wine with subtle and ethereal flavours of flowers, lime fruit and honey. The toasty characters are restrained. Fresh, lively acids are present, but in the final analysis somewhat on the thin side. 12.0% alc. 15.5/20
1993: Deep, light golden colour, the nose is marred by TCA cork taint which results in a herbal grubbiness to the aromatics of ripe citrus fruit. Off-dry to taste, this is light and even in expression, with gentle honey and toast notes to the citrus fruit. The TCA intrudes and builds in dirtiness and flattens the palate. 12.0% alc. 11.5/20
1994: Bright, even, light golden yellow colour, this has a fine and tightly bound bouquet, somewhat shy. Limes, honey and subtle toasty aromas are melded together. Medium-dry, this is gentle and easy, light in body, and quite subtle in flavour expression. Yellow florals, hints of honey, some lusciousness, and gentle nuances carry through on a good finish. There is balanced acidity contributing to the harmony, but in essence uncomplicated. Pleasant and textbook stuff, but in good condition for its age. 11.5% alc. 16.0+/20
There you are. They've all gone now. Phew! But wait.....there's other treasure to come...
1981: Deep golden orange colour, this is shy, but with a solid and densely presented nose of slightly spoilt beeswax, not quite clean. Medium-dry, this is rather light in flavour, over-ripe citrus fruits, lozenges, soft in mouthfeel, but still with acidity. Honied notes on the aftertaste. This has residual honey characters showing some integrity. 10.5% alc. 13.0/20
1982: Deep golden orange with a little yellow. This shows sharp oxidation on bouquet, some caramel coming through. Medium-sweet to taste, a honey and oxidative amalgam remains on palate along with crisp acidity. There is good mouthfeel, but unfortunately the oxidation is too prominent. Front label deteriorated, alcohol % unreadable. 12.0+/20
1983: Deep golden orange colour. Some TCA and soft oxidation to the fore, but with nuances of toastiness and a little kero. Medium-dry, this has an elegant proportion and fine textured mouthfeel and core. Toasty elements with oxidation, but still with acid vitality. This bottle faded and probably tainted. Past low shoulder ullage equivalence. 11.5% alc. 10.5/20
1984: Deep golden orange colour, the nose has an unusual mix of herbaceous, sappy and herbal aromatics alongside lozenge and caramel, and a nuance of oxidation. Off-dry, this is light-bodied, thin, herbaceous in flavour with harsh acidity. Weak and watery in the wine department, and reflecting the cool vintage, but curiously not dead. Unpleasant. 11.5% alc. 9.5+/20
1985: Bright golden-yellow with lemon hues. This has a soft, gentle and integrated nose with wild honey and toast notes, building in depth. Medium-dry, this features succulent honey and sherbet flavours with toast, underlined by clean, soft acid. Quite complete and without overly broad, this is extremely developed, but still very attractive. This became dry with air time. 12.0% alc. 18.5-/20
1986: Deep golden orange in colour, not bright. The bouquet is marked by sherryish oxidation, quite firm and hard. Medium on palate, oxidation rules, but there is a lively sweetness and succulence from an esters lift that provides a modicum of appeal. 12.0% alc. 12.0/20
1987: Light golden yellow colour, this has freshness and an elegance on bouquet, honey, toast and some dried flowers. Medium in sweetness, there is some weight and a core to the palate line, with flavours of honey, sherbet and esters, the acidity quite soft. A touch drying on the finish, but in remarkable condition, showing no oxidation. 12.0% alc., 13 g/L rs, TA 7.5 g/L, pH 3.38. 17.5-/20
1988: Deep, orange gold in colour, the nose is sharp and oxidised, and quite light in expression. Medium-dry, this is very light in weight, but showing honey and lozenge flavours and burnt honey, the oxidation present, but not rampant. Good acidity carries the finish with length. Cyclone Bola vintage, with a little effect in Marlborough only. 12.0% alc., 12 g/L rs, TA 7.5 g/L, pH 3.4. 11.0-/20
1989: Deep, golden orange colour, this has a full, broad and open nose of caramel and toffee, with over-ripe tropical fruits, suggesting botrytis. Medium in sweetness, the palate is soft and gently presented, showing light and attractive flavours of toffee and burnt honey, a little flabby, but with residual acidity. No noticeable oxidation, but the fruit has pretty much faded. 12.5% alc., 14 g/L rs, TA 7.5 g/L, pH 3.4. 15.5/20
1990: Light golden-orange colour with yellow hues. This has a light honied nose with notes of caramel and an element of oxidation. Medium-dry and light weighted, honey and toast flavours feature, and attractive caramel notes emerge. The palate verges on thinness and the acidity is somewhat flat, but the softness and delicacy are positives. 11.5% alc., 13 g/L rs, TA 7.1 g/L, pH 3.2. 12.5/20
1991: Bright, light golden yellow colour. The nose is composed of yellow florals with honey, alongside notes of toast with fresh herbs. Medium-dry to taste, this is an elegantly proportioned wine with subtle and ethereal flavours of flowers, lime fruit and honey. The toasty characters are restrained. Fresh, lively acids are present, but in the final analysis somewhat on the thin side. 12.0% alc. 15.5/20
1993: Deep, light golden colour, the nose is marred by TCA cork taint which results in a herbal grubbiness to the aromatics of ripe citrus fruit. Off-dry to taste, this is light and even in expression, with gentle honey and toast notes to the citrus fruit. The TCA intrudes and builds in dirtiness and flattens the palate. 12.0% alc. 11.5/20
1994: Bright, even, light golden yellow colour, this has a fine and tightly bound bouquet, somewhat shy. Limes, honey and subtle toasty aromas are melded together. Medium-dry, this is gentle and easy, light in body, and quite subtle in flavour expression. Yellow florals, hints of honey, some lusciousness, and gentle nuances carry through on a good finish. There is balanced acidity contributing to the harmony, but in essence uncomplicated. Pleasant and textbook stuff, but in good condition for its age. 11.5% alc. 16.0+/20
There you are. They've all gone now. Phew! But wait.....there's other treasure to come...
Monday, January 2, 2012
Charged with Chardonnays
What a great set of people the Neighbouring S.O.S. Group are. They help us out with excess wine, but often they are the reason to open some bottles and celebrate. An extended session involved a close look at three of our favourite Chardonnays.
The scene setter and near scene stealer was a 2009 Charles Wiffen Marlborough Chardonnay. A gold medal winner, and incredibly good value around the $25.00 mark. A little golden in colour, this filled the nose and palate with citrus fruit characters, toasty, nutty oak and a good whack of creamy, buttery MLF. The acidity was there, but this is now developing nicely and coming together with a seamlessness of texture. Beautiful and flavoursome to drink now and over the next couple of years. This was definably Marlborough, and more than excellent with it, and it hit the spot with the Neighbouring S.O.S. Group and SWMBO.
Next was the multi-Champion Wine of the Show winner, the 2010 Villa Maria ‘Single Vineyard – Keltern’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay. Now, surely, all those judges who have seen this wine over so many shows must know what they’re on about? Well, it surely is a cracker, but in the modern show-winning mould with plenty of the complexing sulphides. Nutty and flinty, bordering on OTT for me. The fruit restrained, more stonefruit and nuts. However, this had superlative concentration, drive and tension, the acidity perfectly judge, as is the oaking. Toast and char nuances just add another layer of interest to something that is jam-packed with it. But, curiously, it was not preferred over the Charles Wiffen. I myself found myself waiting for the reduction to subside with breathing, as I have seen it do so with other bottles opened, and it did, but for here and now, the earlier wine got the thumbs up. We all knew the Villa Maria was special, but today it seemed it will be one that will come into its own later. At around $35.00 a bottle, it’s a steal. So SWMBO & I have some stored away…
The final in the trio was the 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Craighall’ Martinborough Chardonnay. The most expensive at around $40.00. This was the ‘wow wine’ Back to a darker colour, but voluminous and mouthfilling with ripe stonefruit and exotic tropical fruit flavours interwoven with spicy, nutty oak and all wrapped up in a creamy, decadent structure. This had extra layers of flavour and nuances that immediately unfolded and revealed complexity. This is truly a great wine from a great vineyard site, and we all agreed it was the one to put first on style alone. It isn’t your modern affair, and it isn’t varietal or regional. Just great terroir, making great wine under the auspices of sensitive hands. It’s lovely now, but will keep another few years for sure.
The gathering could see all three wines were superb. We all agreed to disagree on our preferences when considering style and price. The discussion could have gone on for some time. So, we all took a step back, charged our Chardonnay glasses and toasted all three wines!
The scene setter and near scene stealer was a 2009 Charles Wiffen Marlborough Chardonnay. A gold medal winner, and incredibly good value around the $25.00 mark. A little golden in colour, this filled the nose and palate with citrus fruit characters, toasty, nutty oak and a good whack of creamy, buttery MLF. The acidity was there, but this is now developing nicely and coming together with a seamlessness of texture. Beautiful and flavoursome to drink now and over the next couple of years. This was definably Marlborough, and more than excellent with it, and it hit the spot with the Neighbouring S.O.S. Group and SWMBO.
Next was the multi-Champion Wine of the Show winner, the 2010 Villa Maria ‘Single Vineyard – Keltern’ Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay. Now, surely, all those judges who have seen this wine over so many shows must know what they’re on about? Well, it surely is a cracker, but in the modern show-winning mould with plenty of the complexing sulphides. Nutty and flinty, bordering on OTT for me. The fruit restrained, more stonefruit and nuts. However, this had superlative concentration, drive and tension, the acidity perfectly judge, as is the oaking. Toast and char nuances just add another layer of interest to something that is jam-packed with it. But, curiously, it was not preferred over the Charles Wiffen. I myself found myself waiting for the reduction to subside with breathing, as I have seen it do so with other bottles opened, and it did, but for here and now, the earlier wine got the thumbs up. We all knew the Villa Maria was special, but today it seemed it will be one that will come into its own later. At around $35.00 a bottle, it’s a steal. So SWMBO & I have some stored away…
The final in the trio was the 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Craighall’ Martinborough Chardonnay. The most expensive at around $40.00. This was the ‘wow wine’ Back to a darker colour, but voluminous and mouthfilling with ripe stonefruit and exotic tropical fruit flavours interwoven with spicy, nutty oak and all wrapped up in a creamy, decadent structure. This had extra layers of flavour and nuances that immediately unfolded and revealed complexity. This is truly a great wine from a great vineyard site, and we all agreed it was the one to put first on style alone. It isn’t your modern affair, and it isn’t varietal or regional. Just great terroir, making great wine under the auspices of sensitive hands. It’s lovely now, but will keep another few years for sure.
The gathering could see all three wines were superb. We all agreed to disagree on our preferences when considering style and price. The discussion could have gone on for some time. So, we all took a step back, charged our Chardonnay glasses and toasted all three wines!
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