What a lovely start to the dinner put on by the Ness-Essary
Couple. We knew we were in for a great
night from the guest list. We were
pleased to be invited too. Many wine
bottles and many food courses lay ahead of us.
But to get the evening going, three Rieslings which showed different
aspects of the variety, and also of their origin, and how the makers decided to
make them. Fascinating stuff for wine
geeks, but also those who are ‘just’ into the taste of it.
First up was a 2012
Clemens Busch ‘Rothenpfad’ Punderich Marienburg GG Riesling. We’re loving these dry Rieslings from Clemens
Busch, probably more than the fruit sweet wines as thay show variety still, but
the soils of the site. Red slate, with
ungrafted vines up to 85 y.o. Rich,
soft, luscious, but dry. Weighty, but
fresh. And florals along with spice,
warmth and earth. Just so intriguing to
sip on, yet so satisfying. Everything
was in balance. It probably was the wine
of the night for most of us.
Then followed the 2013
Ansgar Clusserath Trittenheim Apotheke Riesling Trocken. On grey-blue slat, given skin contact and
wild yeast. At 12.0% alc., it showed its
cooler northerly origins. Very Mosel
with electrifying acidity. Immaculate
varietal character, and great minerality.
But the acidity stole the show.
Maybe some time in bottle would settle it down, and bring it into
balance, Easy to not like after the
first wine, but there’s truly plenty there to like in reality.
The third of the trio, a 2013 Brundlmayer Zobinger Heiligenstein 1OTW Riesling ‘Lyra’. An Austrian relation to the two previous
German wines, but no lesser for it. From
the great Heiligenstein vineyard, but this bottling from the Lyra trellised fruit,
which exposes canopy and aeration.
Lovely clarity and softness of varietal fruit. Very refined textures, and poised acidity. Beautifully balance. Maybe a tad more fruit power. But sheer class here. Still the Clemens Busch was the star, but
this just behind.
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