There are certain people who command respect. They are royalty among the normal. The Prince is one such man. He’s a man of plenty experience in the making
of a certain style of wine, so much that he’s earned the royal title. It was the Prince’s birthday, and although he’d
already had significant celebrations with significant others, we were graced
with a visit and thus his presence. It
was an opportunity for opening a wine SWMBO and I’d had for a few years. It was waiting for such an occasion.
One of the most respected Champagne brands is Pol
Roger. A small house, the wines are
always extremely stylish, and never extroverted. Yet they have wonderful
complexity. In my early days of wine
drinking, their excellence went over my head.
It took quite a while to learn to savour and seek the detail. The 1999
Pol Roger ‘Sir Winston Churchill’ Champagne is the house’s top expression
for that very fine year. Its actual
make-up in cepage is a closely guarded secret.
But no doubt there’s plenty of Pinot Noir and also extended time on
lees. The 1999 is still youthful in that
it has a real future ahead of it as shown by its concentration and fine firm
depth. But it is showing its character
now. Rich but restrained stonefuits,
more yellow than white, showing the Pinot Noir heart. And a complex interwoven amalgam of bread and
nuts, from autolysis and melding with fruit.
No aldehyde coarseness at all, but interestingly with considerable textures. Again not coarse or unwanted phenolics, but
more fruit weight and extract. The
acidity is perfectly judged, giving succulence and tension. We loved this. The Prince sipped his glass with a big
grin. We think royalty was pleased.
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