So it was with the 2001
Ch. Balac ‘Cuvee Prestige’ Haut-Medoc.
The wine was from the property that the Bunny gals worked at
around a decade ago. They had a great
time, and made good wine, and came away from Bordeaux with a grand impression
and a feel for the French way of life, as well a few bottles of earlier
vintages. So at the dinner party, out
came a bottle, the 2001. The cork was
extracted with due decorum, and it was in very good condition. On pouring we could all see it was still
youthful, quite black-red in colour and dense, even after 15+ years. But on nose, rather than sweet ripe
blackcurrant and plummy fruit came the aromas of savoury green-berried fruit
with herbs, stalk, a touch of leaf and loads of earth. Bordering grubby, some of us thought. The taste was the same, but the palate
redeemed itself to some degree with its vigour, tannin grip and lively acidity. This was in truth quite coarse, rough and
rustic.
We persevered with drinking it, mainly in deference to the
Bunny gals. As it breathed more, the
componentry came together. The grubby
notes melded, and the wine’s vitality and liveliness became a positive focus. Then slowly, it dawned on us that the wine
was ‘only’ a Cru Bourgeois’ when we may have been wanting ‘Cru Classe’. In the scheme of things this was a pretty
decent wine that needed some air time to get rid of the bottle-stink. It sat comfortably in the Cru Bourgeois camp,
and as the wine settled, we became more settled drinking it. We remembered its place on the ladder of
quality, and we accepted our place in drinking it as it should be considered.
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