However, we’ve come to appreciate the Trocken wines from
Donnhoff recently too. They were
initially a bit of a departure from what we were used to, but we haven’t been
disappointed. Afterall, there’s still
the search for highest quality, best expression of site, and sheer balance in
the Donhoff wines, whether Trocken or ‘fruit-sweet’. Nah, there’s really nothing different in
these Nahe wines!
This was borne out at our lunch with The Orbiter. The 2014
Donnhoff Roxheimer Hollenpfad 1 Riesling Trocken was our contribution to
the proceedings. A little yellow colour,
then a solid volume of aromatics, showing classical white and yellow florals,
citrus fruit and minerals in a wonderful amalgam. Sure, it’s dry on the palate, with plenty of
body and presence. But oozing finesse
and real German minerality. There’s the
softness of the Rheingau, but allied to the freshness of the Mosel. Exactly what Nahe should be. This is pure terroir and regionality, without
any sugar distraction. And so easy to
enjoy. It wasn’t long before the bottle
was finished.
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