Rich Minerals

Some wines seem to defy style typicity and logic.  Dry Riesling can be taut and austere, lean and brisk, with an electric quality to show minerality.  Well, that’s a more accepted model.  But every once in a while a great example can turn up, that features other aspects.

With Jo-Lo in residence and a hot day leading to a thirsty palate, a Riesling was in order to quench the palate, so SWMBO said.  It just happened there was a 2012 Peter Pilger Kuenhof ‘Kaiton’ Sudtirol Eisackel Riesling chilling down.  We tend to forget that wonderful Riesling can come Italy.  Pliger’s estate is tiny and there’s only 2,500 cases made annually.  Biodynamic farming, purity and some acacia vats feature.  Off came the top, and it nearly poured itself into our glasses.

Dry to taste, this had richness of fruit forming an unctuous and weighty palate.  It’s 12.5% alc., so there’s no alcohol fire.  The flavours are classical, with lime and secondary toast, and genuine mineral nuance.  There’s acidity too, but very soft – from low pH rather than high TA.  This forms the basis of the wine’s richness.  But over-riding it all was a sense of minerality and supporting complexity.  Refreshing certainly, but with an intriguing richness.