We took along for the lunch the 1982 Wynns ‘John Riddoch’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. This too was an original. Although Wynns is steeped in history making
the iconic ‘Black Label’ since the mid-1950s.
But it was timely they introduced the super premium ‘John Riddoch’ in
1982, made from the severest of selections.
The fruit showed much greater richness, concentration and depth, as well
as lovely layers, including a whole heap more of new oak. Many critics felt that the Coonawarra-ness
was lost to winemaking artefact. But
those with faith could imagine what would happen with time.
Roll on 35 years, and we opened our bottle. It was sensationally good. It was very varietal with super ripe blackcurrants and cassis, without going into the blue fruit or raisiny spectrum. And classical mintiness, the Coonawarra signature. Lovely acid freshness, and just perfect tannin and structural balance keeping it all in line. The oaking stood out a bit, but who doesn’t like a lick of expensive and exotic new oak? All of the group, including some geeky winemakers enjoyed it. The wine will continue to hold and maybe develop more detail and interest over the next 10+ years easily. It’s always good to have the original than a copy. You enjoy them just a whole lot more.
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