Sunday, October 26, 2014

Richer Steel

Well, what a coincidence!  Not long after the Dog Men put up two J.J. Prum Kabinett wine, another two J.J. Prum appeared on our table, graciously presented by the PT Tutor.  This man knows what it’s all about, and this is one of his favourite German producers.

The 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese I found in that in-between stage, still young and a little raw, and just beginning to show some hints of development.  Deliciously ungainly, as you know it’s going to blossom.  A little more weight and presence than the two Kabinett we had just a little earlier, but not a great deal sweeter.  The 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese a step up again in richness, and a softer steeliness.  Suggestions of unctuousness too.  Definitely in a more youthful state.  There’s the underlying razor acid edge, juxtaposed with the Graacher elegance and roundness – compared to Wehlener, anyway, and the classical sulphide reduction – that we all know fades into complexity, in both the wines.  I would have been happier to leave them another 5+ years, but I’m not complaining.

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Sunshine Slate and Steel

Busy, busy, busy bees.  It’s been a time to focus on my real work and I haven’t had a chance to add some of the ‘other’ interesting wines that have come my way. 
It was a brilliant day in the sunshine.  Picnic time, and the Dog Men put up the perfect lunchtime accompaniment.  It was a working lunch, so the less the alcohol the better.  And some rich and varied food needed a bit of acid cut.  And a comparison too!

J.J. Prum is the master of slate and steel, making the best Wehlener wines and from the neighbouring villages.  The 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett with a little richness and softer body, with a touch of honeysuckle.  The 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett crisper, more pure with great clarity.  But also with a hint of complex reduction too.  Both with the white florals, racy acidity and the taste of slate and steely mouthfeel.  Still babies, but perfectly drinkable already.