Well, what a coincidence! Not long after the Dog Men put up two J.J. Prum Kabinett wine, another two J.J. Prum appeared on our table, graciously presented by the PT Tutor. This man knows what it’s all about, and this is one of his favourite German producers.
The 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese I found in that in-between stage, still young and a little raw, and just beginning to show some hints of development. Deliciously ungainly, as you know it’s going to blossom. A little more weight and presence than the two Kabinett we had just a little earlier, but not a great deal sweeter. The 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese a step up again in richness, and a softer steeliness. Suggestions of unctuousness too. Definitely in a more youthful state. There’s the underlying razor acid edge, juxtaposed with the Graacher elegance and roundness – compared to Wehlener, anyway, and the classical sulphide reduction – that we all know fades into complexity, in both the wines. I would have been happier to leave them another 5+ years, but I’m not complaining.