Contact

The last couple of weeks have allowed us to set up some contacts and gatherings with people we value. To make contact with them after some time is indeed special.

Firstly, we made a journey down the river to meet up with JJ. To mark the contact, we started off with a gorgeous Bollinger Rose Champagne NV. Few have really got into this newbie label, but it's a delight. Bolly in style for sure - depth, power, subtle aldehyde, but fresh and red fruit sweetness showing to the fore. We followed this with the 2007 Spy Valley 'Envoy' Riesling. 9% alc, but with a depth of fruit weight on a medium palate and toasty notes. Strangely sweet and sour, but it worked. And then the piece de resistance, 2002 Craggy Range 'Dijon Clones' Chard. Full, developed, integrated. SWMBO said too oaky, but it touched and made contact with me.

God, how Tim & Judy Finn make stunning wine in the Upper Moutere. With different ski friends, we had the 2007 Neudorf Nelson Chardonnay and the 2007 Neudorf 'Toms Block' Pinot Noir. We've always liked these 'affordable' wines over the years, and the new 2007s have looked as smart as ever. But in good company, they come out to meet you. Maybe it's a few extra months bottle age. But these touched the 'fine wine' parts of our palates. Contact!

And then a big dinner with ex-neighbours we are still in regular contact with. A tank sample 2008 Stonecroft Sauvignon Blanc was flat. Possiby not stabilised sufficiently? But a 2007 Seresin Reserve Sauvignon Blanc made up for it. Yes, it was lively and very fine in feel. As the meal was Moroccan in theme, a perfumed and lush 2007 Stonecroft 'Old Vine' Gewurz hit the spot. It more than compensated for the Sauvvie that disappointed. Served alongside a plesasant and commercial 2007 Yalumba 'Y Series' Shiraz/Viognier. Jammy and not as good as the super 2006. The centrepiece was the comparison of 1987 Te Mata 'Awatea' with 'Coleraine'. Both single-vineyard wines at the time and both purportedly equal in status, though we all knew the latter was the 'special' one. 'Awatea' started a little herby and acidic, but elegant and classic cassis still. Fresh, and certainly no secondary decay. It picked up cedar/cigar notes as the night went on. 'Coleraine' was all it should have been. Riper, sweeter, even more elegant. And it stayed that way, and in front of the 'Awatea'. SWMBO was surprised at how well the 'Awatea' grew. In the final analysis, it was a close call. The two wines came back into contact with each other.

A sweet finish was called for. Andrew Hedley has excelled at Framingham in 2008. He's managed that botrytis well, but the wines are botrytis dominant over fruit expresssion. The 2008 Framingham Auslese #1 was beautifully fresh and acidic, giving cut to the botrytis. Andrew says Beerenauslese standard. We agreed. The Auslese #2 was more botrytis than fruit. Less fresh, more solid. Gold Kap Auslese standard to Andrew. OK on that too, but not quite as good as #1. So why is this #2? The #3 was richer and more acidic and lifted, with a volatile touch. A TBA standard for sure, and a well-deserved #3 - if increasing numbers mean 'better' wine. The last was the 2008 Framingham Noble Riesling. A blend of #1, #2 and #3. Gestalt Psychology applies. The whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Varietal expression came through. Incredibly. It does not come through to any similar extent in the other three. That Andrew. He's got it sussed. I'll make sure I make contact with him about them.