Wouldn't call this an opportunity, but it was a situation to look at a little line-up of old N.Z. Cabernet Sauvignons. A slice of history, I suppose. Montana Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon 1979 to 1986 (excluding 1985). Everything was stacked up against anything good coming out of it. But my philosophy is if you don't try the bad stuff, you won't appreciate the good stuff. Montana, our biggest winemaker at the time was making this commercial label. Up-market commercial, but still commercial. Cabernet Sauvignon from Marlborough. We can laugh now. And viticulture back then. Practically pre-historic! But you just never know. The Froggies and the Ockers have wines that last the distance.....
The 1979 Montana Marlb. Cab Sauv, 11.5% - volatile as hell. DNPIM (Do Not Put In Mouth). It reminded me of "Don't say Boo Hoo, say UHU" - an old glue advertisement. 1979 was not a great year. Rains spoiled the harvest.
1980, 11.5% - light, herby, some acid, dried out. A better vintage than 1979 for sure, then. Te Mata did a great Cab Sauv which won Trophy at the NWC.
1981. 12.0% - Darker, deep, intense wine, herbal, but real blackcurrants with fruit sweetness and depth. A surprise. Again, Te Mata did a good 1981 too.
1982, 12.0% - Gentle, soft, slightly milky lactic note, acidic. Barely passable, but alive, just. The benchmark - Te Mata 'Coleraine' was first made that year. It's still alive too, but in better condition.
1983, 12.5% - a hot year. Lively, riper, sweeter, low acid, some semblance of balance. Kumeu River did a great Merlot that year. Te Mata's 'Coleraine' was a cracker.
1984, 12.5% - a wet and cool year. Brown, oxidised, very green. Everbody made a weak one.
No 1985 in this line-up.
1986, 11.5% - green peas, acidic and dried out. We've seen some 1986s that were OK.
Obviously reds fare much better than whiles, if you read the last post on old Gewurztraminers.
These little line-ups throw some curve-balls sometimes.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
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