Moving On

As wine drinkers, both individually and demographically, we are continually changing in our drinking habits. It's tough going back to older wines as we have moved on in viticulture and in winemaking. We do it so much better nowadays. And fashions move on. Two decades ago, it was claret style. But nowadays, we can't abide by the firm tannins of the Bordeaux varieties. It's Pinot Noir and Syrah that are hot.

To prove a point we looked at a trio of 1983 Kiwi reds with Mr Mace. He is actually involved in making Pinot Noir, so he may have been biased? I don't think so. First was the 1983 Goldwater Cabernet Sauvignon. Second release from this producer on Waiheke. It had gobs of fruit, extract anf depth. Pity it was green and unripe, with stalkiness and leaf. Our viticulture is much better now. Then a 1983 Morton Estate 'Black Label' Cabernet Sauvignon. Dilute. No depth. But in its favour clean and free of faults. Finally, a 1983 Matawhero Cabernet/Merlot. Soft, milky-lactic, with a sweetness of fruit, but also funky-not-totally clean. In some ways, drinking some history. The vintage was good in The Bay. Te Mata did well as did Cooks...

But in reality, these wines had moved on.