Gathering

When you gather around three dozen people together, it's not easy making a bottle get around everyone, so SWMBO and I bring a 1.5 Litre magnum each. Our contributions seemed to garner a bit of interest. The 2007 Ch. Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc Pessac-Leognan made a few realise that spicy oak and exotic herbal, gooseberry fruit can worth together. Bordeaux is one of those places where it can come into harmony and interest, and this bottle had a subtle nature, yet real depth and concentration in a soft way. The 2006 Ridge 'Lytton Springs' was plummy, blueberry, with jam and compote, but in a classy expression. The Zinfandel variety isn't one for classical elegance, but Ridge could be a contender for doing it that way. Warm, soft tannins and a youthfulness all made it a 'nice' drink.

Lots of 750 ml bottles were brought to the gathering, and we only got to see a few of them. The 2003 Jaboulet Saint-Peray 'Sauvageres' was a bit stolid in a pure way. This was, after all Marsanne from a hot region in a hot and dry year. This taken on board, it was a miracle that it was still young and 'tight'. The other Rhone was an oldie. 1995 Delas Hermitage 'Tourette'. A clunky wine full of bottle-stunk black red fruits. However, this began to show some of its Syrah earth, game and fruit in the glass. Plenty of structure around it all still, in a rounded way.

An interesting pair were the 1993 Wynns 'Black Label' and 1993 'John Riddoch' Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignons. The first still dark coloured, a little herbaceous, plenty acidic, and tannins resolving. The latter marked by a truck load of new wood, and much more extract. But the hard acid making its mark.

An even better twosome was the traditional Burgundy vs Burgundy comparison. The 2002 J.F. Mugnier Bonnes Mares very pale, with a mass of powdery tannin and restrained forest-floor and red-dark fruits somewhere in it. For a great year, this was all locked up and not showing any sweetness. However, we've learned that Mugnier had been working on the vineyard, becoming happy with it from 2005. More attractive was the 2002 Ch. Pichon Baron. Darker, of course, deeper, concentrated, but now mellowed out. Cassis and cedar, with firm grip. Now showing how light 2002 was. Why do we always go for the so-called 'best years', when these lighter years are really delish?

A couple of modern Aussies passed our way. A 2005 Briarose Margaret River Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. Dark fruited, plenty of life, though some brett hinted. Not so good was a 2005 Lowe Reserve Shiraz from the Mudgee. Fruit gone west, and a muddled, muddy wine. We were told it was organic/biodynamic, but the wine has to be good.....to go further!

We had a mini-gathering in the Chairman's room later with the Show Queen and Lady Chairman. A delightful 2002 Mumm Vintage Champagne flowed, teased and refreshed us while the conversation ranged. Finishing the big day with a 2005 Nicolas Potel Pommard 'Vignots', full and rounded with dark fruits, no inkiness, tar or chocolate. Just pure fruit. It was fabulous how accessible this was too, considering the commune and vintage provenance.