Expect the Unexpected

We were graced with the presence of Gordy and Perfect P. The time with them could be expected to be a good one. They are a vibrant couple, with lots on the go, and we could expect them to look after themselves to some degree. And so it was. What we didn’t expect was for Perfect P to cook us a meal at home! Gordy being in charge of the wines had a couple of ‘Options’ lined up for us. It was to be expected. We had a a couple of ‘Options’ line up for them. That too was expected. But how the wines turned out was unexpected.
To set the scene, we opened a 2006 No. 1 Family Estate ‘Cuvee Virginie’ Methode from the famous Daniel Le Brun. It is a tribute label to Daniel’s daughter, and it really is sophisticated. Last time SWMBO and I tried it, it was backward, and seemed to need time in bottle. However, on opening it was harmonious and together and very now. A very pleasant surprise. Lovely autolysis, and waves of flavour.
Then to the mystery whites. Served blind, a 2005 Keller Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken from the Rheinhessen was a tough one to figure. It smelt very German, but the dryness, highish alcohol and body suggested Alsace. A beautiful drop, with gorgeous ‘custard and cream’ from bottle-development, and great interest in flavour. If you were critical, it seemed forward too. The acidity was soft and lowish. Both SWMBO and I chose Alsace as our answer, with the proviso it seemed from over the border (at least in our minds). From the Rheinhessen and sitting at 13.0% alc. All that was unexpected, but in retrospect, it all made sense.
Our contribution to the blind game was a 2005 Nicolas Joly ‘Clos de la Coulee de Serrant’ Savennieres. A classic from this biodynamicist. Golden and terribly oxidised on nose, this partly redeemed itself with body and sweetness and richness in this dry wine. We were all disappointed. We’d been told that Joly recommends decanting 24 hours in advance, so it was interesting to follow. Unexpectedly, it began to lose its oxidative nose. Pineapples were seen by SWMBO. Gordy could see ultra-late picking. He could have guessed Rhone white. With 15.0% alc., one could see why you’d go down this track. But, Gordy said Chenin Blanc – and correctly. As time went on, the wine got cleaner and richer, but also sturdier and hotter. You could not expect to understand how this wine would behave…and I don’t think we can yet…
On to the reds, as Perfect P was cooking up the venison racks. Gordy’s red seemed so Bordeaux-like, with lovely dark berried-plummy fruit on the nose, but the richness on palate that ensued was so unexpected. Game, leather, juiciness and great tannic structure marked what was the wine of the night. It was 1999 Antinori ‘Solaia’. Yes, Bordeaux in Tuscany. SWMBO queried brett, but no, it was complexity, and the wine got sweeter, yet more structured with drinking. Cabernet Sauvignon CAN work in Tuscany, we all reckoned.
Then a 2001 Rostaing Cote-Rotie ‘La Landonne’. Much more elegant and considerably more acidic. The freshness and raciness spoke of Cote-Rotie rather than Hermitage or Cornas for sure. Lovely gentle savoury fruit development, then a huge whack of bacony oak and luncheon meat complexity that Perfect P could see. We’ve seen this label with an unhealthy amount of the horses in the past, and the cleanliness was a little unexpected.
To tie up the evening, no guessing games, unexpectedly so, but at that time of night, much easier and better. 2004 Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes. Sheer elegance with richness. I love these 2004s, even though they are not the best rated. This is really harmonious and soft textured. Rieussec seems more flashy and Suduiraut has lovely tension, but this is sensuous. Expected.