Going to Some Lengths

I had to travel across the length of the island to reach The Beret and Glam Pam, but it had been on the cards for a number of vintages. Joining us for the evening was The Master, and after a session involving tasting over two dozen wines where The Beret had spent an inordinate amount of time, we settled in for some well-anticipated food.

The call to dinner was NV Nicolas Feuillate Champagne ‘Reserve Particuliere’. It hit the spot, with its good size, good fruit depth and all the right amount of autolysis and fruit in combination. I tend to overlook the label, in favour of the more prestigious, and I shouldn’t.

The main food course was beef, and The Beret pulled out a number of reds he’d brought all the way back from France. Some people go to any length to ensure a good drink! First was a 2004 Rene Monnier Beaune 1er ‘Cent Vignes’. A light vintage, but pretty and delightful, still fruity and fresh to a degree, and with good tannin structure underpinning it all. Nice clean fruit, and all in balance too. A bit more serious was the 2003 A-F Gros Savigny-les-Beaune 1er ‘Clos des Guettes’. This showed the drought harvest with its bright dark red plum fruit aromas and flavours. It is said that the 2003s show the New World ripeness, and this did to its benefit, as Savigny-les-Beaune can be a bit rustic and earthy. Roll-on global warming? And to ensure a balance, there was the 2002 Ch. Sociando Mallet Haut-Medoc. Definite blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon at first, but then the growing appearance of horses and farmyard from brettanomyces. Underneath it was a big wine, and fresh and lively, but this was getting dry and grippy with it.

A treat was a rarely seen 2005 Stentz Alsace Gewurztraminer ‘Cuvee de la Premier Neige’, named after the first snow, and thus a late-harvest wine. Full, golden, luscious honey, Turkish Delight and spices on a rounded unctuously texture beautiful palate. Pretty close to decadence.

The Beret pulled another vinous treat to seal the night. 1985 Calem Vintage Port. Garnet and fading in colour with a lighter bouquet, marked by VA, but seamless and lighter, but really delicious drinking, with just enough spirit cut, resolved tannins and good acidity. It’s nicer to go to port, as it shows you’ve travelled the long way through a good dinner. I could go to some length to drink this again!