Touring On-Premise

Had a little job at one of our top flight eateries, talking to some of the new staff about the New Zealand wine scene. They were a young, but enthusiastic bunch, and well-trained in their craft, but still relatively uninitiated in wine. The cool, maritime influenced climate, concept of regionality and terroir were discussed in the briefest time, as were the ideas of winemaker signature, plus wine and food synergy. The bottom line was that nothing can be better than to visit the regions and be on the land.

The concept put forward by The Peeler was to taste a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir each from Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough, Marlborough and Central Otago. It was a selection The Peeler put together, and it turned out pretty interesting going on this vinous tour, with these on-premise people. SWMBO turned up in support and helped hold it all together.

First up was the Hawke’s Bay group, and the 2011 Te Mata ‘Woodthorpe’ Sauvignon Blanc was crisp, clean, relatively subdued, but with clear-cut varietal gooseberry flavours. Its stablemate, the 2010 Te Mata ‘Elston’ Chardonnay was a stunner. A combination of concentration with stylish elegance. Grapefruit galore with perfect mealiness and nuttiness, creamy barrel-ferment and crisp, racy acidity, just carrying the flavours for ages. There’s about as much Pinot Noir as there is Cabernet Sauvignon in The Bay, but it figures less than 8% of the region’s plantings, so it was Merlot. The 2009 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Merlot was another outstanding wine. Still dark purple and tightly bound, there was no mistaking the ripeness and richness of the plummy fruit and fine tannin grip. A great showing from these three from the region.

Then onto Martinborough. An interesting older wine came in the form of the 2010 Ata Rangi Sauvignon Blanc, some bean character, but lush and full, still full of sweet fruit and a with a touch of decadence. The 2009 Ata Rangi ‘Petrie Chardonnay also showed some bottle –development character. Savoury fruits, but tight and with linear power. Then a 2009 Porter’s Pinot Noir, quite restrained, but with the expected structure and slightly gamey complexity to the fruit. This had a touch of herbs too, which was both a positive for interest and a negative for indicating a cooler note. The region only makes up less than 3% of the country’s total plantings but the reputation is much bigger. I’ve seen better examples than these, but they weren’t exactly bad!

Marlborough accounts for more than half our plantings, and on that count is our most important region. An even older wine was the 2009 Auntsfield ‘Long Cow’ Sauvignon Blanc. More bean-like, but with considerable fruit sweetness and weight, making it nearly unctuous. An easy wine to underestimate would be the 2010 Mahi Chardonnay. Elegant, citrus and mineral with flinty lees complexities. There’s plenty built in here and I reckon it’ll keep well. Then the surprise find of the day, a 2009 Charles Wiffen Pinot Noir. Chock-full of ripe raspberry fruit, sweet, lush juicy and extremely vinous, with ideal tannin and acid balance. They say Marlborough will be the Pinot Noir engine room, making good quantities of good value, good quality examples. The other regions won’t be able to compare on these three counts taken together.

Then to the far south, Central Otago. As Chardonnay accounts for 4.5% of the plantings and not considered to be ‘there’ yet, we had a 2008 Mt Edward Riesling. This found favour with everyone. Slightly sweet, with citrus and florals and a generous, but not overbearing fruitiness. A touch of honey, but no toastiness yet. The perfect anytime sipper. The 2010 Rippon Sauvignon was one of those raw, complex, wooded styles. Not liked in general, but I thought it a bold wine and good effort. Nettles, spices and nectarines on a substantial palate. The final wine was a 2009 Wanaka Road Pinot Noir, a second label for Mt Edward. Light, supple and friendly, it didn’t have the typical fruit-bomb black cherry fruitiness, but rather, soft red fruits and a more gentle nature.

I think the on-premise folk found it useful. It was a good recap for me, in any event.