A Surprising Sticky End

Would it be a treasure trove of goodies or a set of disappointments that would be in store for us with the little cache of sweet wines that we dug out from the back of the cellar? Most of the wines were acquired by SWMBO over a decade ago, and in shifting houses they got put in the corner, forgotten. It was with a little trepidation that we broached them; for surely, they had come to a ‘sticky end’ by being left too long.

Firstly a 1994 Villa Maria ‘Cellar Selection’ Marlborough LH Riesling, at 11.0% alc, made with some botrytised fruit. Deep golden, this showed tell-tale signs of oxidation, but carried excellent refreshing acidity and decent amounts of honey and citrus fruit. If only it wasn’t oxidised this would still be an excellent drink. Then a paler coloured 1995 Okahu Estate Northland ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay Desserté. 10.5% alc. and also botyrtised, we assume. On nose rather flat, dull and heavy with honied notes. Again on palate quite dull, redeemed by sheer viscosity and unctuous textures. In remarkable condition, but too flabby to drink any more than a few sips.

The next two wines were more extreme. A 1997 Lintz Estate Martinborough Optima Noble Selection, with 12.0% and 280 g/L rs. Chris Lintz was never afraid to push things, some say too far, hence his fall from grace. This German variety can reach ultra-high brix levels and with full botrytis, this was an OTT wine even on release. However a conglomerate cork tells the story now. Dark mahogany coloured, the nose was marked by a nasty mix of TCA and VA, along with the burnt caramel and toffee aromas and flavours. A tonne of acidity could not carry the overdone flavours, even if the cork taint was not present. A little surprise was the 1981 Tokaji Wine Trust Co. Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, at 14.0% alc. Dark orange and mahogany coloured, this was dry and dense with sherryfied aromas and flavours. Flor characters, as it should have, but wonderfully lively and vibrant and very fine featured. Very drinkable, and its only failing would be a slight lack of oomph to make it strong enough to handle time in the glass to evolve. As it was, it starting to dry and become austere in front of our eyes.

The finale was an NV Limeburners Bay Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Vin Doux Naturel’ Dessert Wine, made in Hobsonville, carrying 17.5% alc. Now defunct, this winery was one of the champions of this style, of which there was a raft of pretenders and contenders. Looking at this bottle which surely would have fruit at least from the mid 1990s, it showed the viticultural standards of the day with its leafiness. Some porty, caramel, chocolate notes too, along with a spoilage note of little furry animals? That’s why it ended up as a fortified dark red wine, rather than a varietal table red….

The wines were indeed a little surprise in a good way. Expecting the worse, they had redeeming features, let down by negative elements that were exacerbated by time. These stickies did come to a sticky end…