Maximum Fun

We hadn’t met Max-1-in-a-Million in person before, but we’ve talked and almost got there over the years. He can make good wine too, so it was a pleasure to catch up over a dinner with Natters and friends at the local Asian eatery. The night progressed from a few bottles to a lot of bottles at home base, and we all had maximum fun getting what we could out of them.

Some German Rieslings showed traditional low alcohol and higher residual sugar against some of the new dry styles, the Grosse Gewachs making a good impression. Firstly a 2009 von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett, rather soft and light, and not quite the focus expected, and a touch of reduction detracting. Surprisingly high 10.5% alc. A 2008 Clemens Busch Marienburg Rothenpfad 1GG Riesling Trocken at 12.5% was tight, austere and closed, with huge minerality and purity. Max-1-in-a-Million thought it had shut down since last tasting it. However the 2009 Van Voxlem Altenberg Alte Reben 1GG (a Kanzemer Altenberg) Riesling was stunning. Immense weight and extract, with classy sheen and slippery finesse to balance the size. I’ve thought Van Voxlem’s wines to be a little too firm in the past, but refinement has been incorporated. This was my star of the night.

To finish the drier white scene, Max-1-in-a-Million brought out a 2000 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Vaillon. Fully mature for sure with rounded, integrated chalk and flint with nutty stonefruit core. Weighty and full, without the crisp zing that makes Chablis poised and knife-edge, but still an enjoyable animal.

Aromatic reds were again so intriguing and good. The 2005 Felton Road ‘Block 3’ Central Otago Pinot Noir was ultra-smooth and sleek, with refined secondary flavours totally immersed in the structure. Many 2005s have turned ugly showing their cool streak. Not this. My only criticism was is smaller scale presentation. SWMBO loved it still. Also refined in texture was a pre-release 2010 Escarpment ‘Kupe’ Pinot Noir from Martinborough. The best I’ve seen it yet, with sumptuousness and depth of fruit to match the mouthfeel. The dried herb cooler vintage was evident, but without any detriment. Almost star of the night was a 2005 Bilancia ‘La Collina’ Syrah. Youthful as a current release wine in colour, primary pepper and black berry fruit, and sweetness of fruit. It’s age belied by the suppleness of the tannins and completeness as a wine. I thought it might show a little more funkiness, but the purity quite mind-boggling.

Old reds began with a New Zealand pair of 26 year old wines from the Auckland/Northland region. The 1986 St Jerome Cabernet/Merlot still dark, with blackcurrant varietal and early viticulture characters. But spoilt by a little grubbiness. Still acid and well-structured and grippy. This was liked by Natters. SWMBO and I enjoyed the 1986 The Antipodean, a Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec from Matakana. A wine with a super marketing story that got $100 a bottle out of me quarter of a century ago. Billed as the Ch. Lafite of N.Z. Tonight, quite beautiful and cedary. Loads too much new oak, but not unripe, well- hidden by the oak? Silky smooth, milk chocolate underneath. Still very drinkable…

The Aussie pair were just as interesting and fun to taste. A 1982 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was elegant, still blackcurranty and minty, lively and fresh, with tannins, acid and all else in working order. A treat indeed. Unfortunately the 1981 Wynns Coonwarra Cabernet Sauvignon was oxidised, sour and savoury. No vestiges of fruit left, acid poking through, and tannins faded leaving it flat too. Oh well, win some, lose some.

It was getting into the early hours, so a little sweet treat ended the night/morning. A 2005 S.A. Prum Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese, just beginning to show a hint of honey and toast to florals and limes. Lush, but well-cut by the acid. Not quite as stunning as the last bottle, but still most excellent.