Running From Old to New

On our travels we ran into the Cho-sen One and his extended family, who extended an invitation for us to join in for dinner.  With the Engineers and the Cookies also going to be present, we knew it would be a lot of fun, and no doubt a lot of wine was going to be opened.  And there was.  It was a feast of bottles running from oldies to newbies, all with interest, and I note some of them.

An initial trio of Trinity Hill Wairarapa Riesling was indeed interesting.  The fruit coming from the ‘Petrie’ vineyard near Masterton, better known for its contribution to the ‘Petrie’ Chardonnay that Ata Rangi make.  The 2003, sealed in screwcap, was in full bloom.  A big wine in mouthfeel, wiyh plenty of vigour, showing lovely toasty notes to the fore, but with limey fruit underneath.  This has energy to go, and was perfect to appreciate how the variety can last a decade.  The 2001, sealed in cork, was unfortunately marred by oxidation.  Fruit faded now, and soft textured.  Not really offensive, but you knew it had gone past the point of no return.  The 1999 was a surprise, still in good condition.  Soft too, and broad, with honey and toast, and the beginnings of losing the plot, but still a good drink. 

We contributed three older Kiwi wines as another group of interest.  All from the 1986 vintage, one that was more forward than the preceding and following years.  The 1986 Robard & Butler Cabernet/Merlot never said where its fruit came from, as it was a negociant label at that time.  It offered value, and flavoursome drinking.  Now, it was still big in the mouth with ripe fruity nuances, but a hint of grubbiness making it a suspicious drink.  Rounded mouthfeel, and fully resolved tannins, but not really pleasant.  The 1986 de Redcliffe Cabernet/Merlot, from near Thames was a cultish wine in its day, made by the enthusiastic Chris Canning.  The fruit wasn’t as ripe as we like it nowadays, and this was seen in the greener flavours and sleek acid streak.  But it had a degree of finesse in a slender way.  Then a 1986 Abel & Co Cabernet/Merlot, from Pomona Road, Kumeu.  The most satisfying of the trio in fruitiness and structure.  Still with life ahead, if it wasn’t for a noticeable dose of volatile acidity.

The in-between wine was brought by the Cookies.  A 1990 Wynns ‘Michael’ Coonawarra Shiraz.  Dark, deep, ripe and chock-full of black fruits, earth and pepper, and sufficient structure to handle the meatiest of steaks and see off another decade of cellaring.  A strong plum and liquorice finish was a feature.

Back to Kiwi land with the reds.  The future of the Gimblett Gravels Matariki label is uncertain now, after being placed into the hands of receivers.  Some current and yet to be released wine made a showing.  The 2009 Matariki ‘Reserve’ Syrah was a worthy match to the Wynns ‘Michael’ tasted earlier.  Sweet, dark spices and ripe plum flavours plus a heap of oak, but magically retained in check so as not to overwhelm.  Delicious stuff.  A 2009 Matariki ‘Reserve’ Merlot/Cabernet showing a little more restraint and style.  Classy strength with ripeness and a lovely flow.  Even better was a 2009 Matariki ‘Quintology’.  Very robust and fulsome, with a mass of ripe black fruits and a full array of flavours.  It’s a bit of a super-star.  The benchmarker served by the Cho-sen One was the 2008 Te Mata ‘Awatea’ Cabernet/Merlot.  A beautiful wine too, which appeared seamless, with harmony and balance.  Classical blackcurrant and leaf, definitely a cooler vintage, and the acidity noticeable, but exuding a sense of finesse.  Not the ripeness of the 2009 Matariki wines, and thus suffering a little by comparison.  But taking a step back, you could see it was a wine with style.