In one of these sessions to plan for a seamless transition,
The Planner and Planette had us around for dinner. And lovely it was too. The introduction was a 2006 Schaefer Graacher
Domprobst Riesling Kabinett. With a
half-dozen years under its belt, it showed the expected secondary interest,
with definite toast and kero aromas and flavours. But this was remarkable for its acidity and
zestiness. Sure there’s the creamy
richness and textures, but Mosel acidity wins out here. It’s searingly seamless, and the palate flows
with raciness and liveliness. The
mouthfeel extremely fresh, and it will always be the case as it makes a further
transition to the even darker and more complex side. I could tell SWMBO and The Planner liked
this. And The Planette too. A joy for all of us.
I haven’t tried the white burgundies from Paul Pillot
before, but on this evening, I‘ll be pretty happy to see one opened
anytime. The 2009 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet
1er ‘Les Grandes Ruchottes’ showed its Chassagne size and richness. Note quite the fine floral linearity of a
Puligny, this was softer, rounder, more approachable and a crowd pleaser. All the white stonefruits and integrated
nuttiness you could want, with that hint of sweetness, breadth and ripeness
that lets you understand why 2009 is a year for New World palates. Subtle ‘Riesling complexities’ meaning
reductive hints are there, but perfectly judged for me. A seamless and complete beauty.
Then a 2004 Ch. Duhart-Milon Pauillacc From the Lafite stable, one could expect it
to perform above its fourth growth status.
It’s not as fine as Lafite is for sure, with a certain robustness
showing. This had real depth and
concentration, but a strong case of the herbal streak and animal-like brettanomyces. Packed to overflowing with ripe blackcurrant
flavours, the brett is a significant showing here. I can see a consumer lovin’ it as it is deep and
full of flavours . And there’s structure
too. Many 2004s show thinness with the
green, but not this. There’s pros and
cons here. On one side the size, fruit
sweetness and depth. On the other greens
and animals. The sides change seamlessly
from one to the other while drinking it, except for SWMBO, who saw the animal.
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