Homogenous Concern

There’s a lot of discussion over how the world of wine is coming together with the loss of individuality and reflection of sense of place.  The modern wine styles are becoming homogenous.  It’s easy to understand and accept such things when it comes to the commercial side of the market, as after all, the wine wines are made to a formula to deliver the goods, which happen to be the same thing around the world.  So a ‘good’ Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot might taste the same or close to it, whether it came from France, California, Australia, South Africa, Chile or New Zealand.  But surely fine wine stands above and beyond all that.  Wine signature, style and provenance must stand out?

The Reefer loves Bordeaux and Bordeaux-styled wines.  He served one blind, and went through the questions in determining what his wine might be.  I thought it a Bordeaux-style, with plummy Merlot fruit as its base.  The sweetness, cleanliness and fruitiness spoke of modern, New World winemaking.  Indeed, the wine was fruity rather than textural.  It looked youthfully bright.  Lovely accessibility and integrated oaking.  My initial thoughts were New Zealand near-top quality Hawke’s Bay Merlot blend, around 2009 or 2010.  France was its country of origin, from Bordeaux, left-bank, and 2010.  It turned out to be 2010 ‘Les Pagodes de Cos’ St Estephe.  Classy stuff, as far as the label was concerned.  No suggestion of St Estephe or Ch. Cos d’Estournel character was present.  It was a delicious amorphous red that could have come from any one of a dozen terroirs.  It’s the first time I’ve sensed a concern at wine homogeneity, with ‘top’ wine.  Worry is a result…