The Nebbiolo wines of Piedmont can be pretty fearsome to the
uninitiated, with considerable extraction and the acidity to match. But their aromatic beauty and complexity can
be something to behold. In a country so
focussed on supple and accessible reds from Pinot Noir, aficionados of good
Pinot Noirs gravitate to the more sophisticated Barbaresco and Barolo wines
easily. That’s once they experience that
beauty. How can Piedmont producers make
their wines more user-friendly to the newcomer without losing their essence?
A 2009 Terra da Vino ‘Paesi
Tuoi’ Barolo showed how. It’s the
more traditional rendition from a super large co-operative who are in the
modern camp, and want to make wines approachable. This wine was just that. Big, fleshy, brawny, but rounded and
soft. Plenty of savoury dark red fruits
with earth, leather and tar. Real Nebbiolo in taste. But sweet.
Residual sugar sweet, I wouldn’t like to make the call. The first half of the bottle went down
quickly. It helped to have venison
meatballs. Then the tannins and the
honest taste of the ground kicked in for the second half of the bottle. Suddenly, it became the Barolo as
expected. Seasoned campaigners SWMBO and
the I-Spy Agent saw it the same way too. Bellissimo!
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