We have a love of the wines from the Mosel. There’s the traditional style for us, which
for those growing up after WW2 means low alcohol with high sugar and
acidity. Yet we’ve learnt that this is
the new traditional style, the wines of older times being distinctly
light-bodied and austere. The advent of
better ripeness and chaptalisation making them sweeter in our time. Of course the new wave wines are trending
drier, or remaining sweet with much greater finesse. These are now what’s traditional – the new
traditional?
Weingut Kerpen is definitely traditional as we know it. A rich, sweeter style with the slight
rusticity that the ultra modern wines have done away with. And with the ‘rougher’ nature comes more
character. This 2010 Kerpen Wehlener
Sonnenur Riesling Auslese * very sweet and fulsome as the house style
dictates. There’s the site terroir with
the razor-sharp acidity and minerals, but here, a healthy dose of botrytis and
savoury complexity takes it away from pure and pristine. Magic to the middle traditional lovers.
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