Wednesday, February 18, 2015


We have a love of the wines from the Mosel.  There’s the traditional style for us, which for those growing up after WW2 means low alcohol with high sugar and acidity.  Yet we’ve learnt that this is the new traditional style, the wines of older times being distinctly light-bodied and austere.  The advent of better ripeness and chaptalisation making them sweeter in our time.  Of course the new wave wines are trending drier, or remaining sweet with much greater finesse.  These are now what’s traditional – the new traditional? 
Weingut Kerpen is definitely traditional as we know it.  A rich, sweeter style with the slight rusticity that the ultra modern wines have done away with.  And with the ‘rougher’ nature comes more character.  This 2010 Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenur Riesling Auslese * very sweet and fulsome as the house style dictates.  There’s the site terroir with the razor-sharp acidity and minerals, but here, a healthy dose of botrytis and savoury complexity takes it away from pure and pristine.  Magic to the middle traditional lovers.     

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