We’ve come across a smattering of these Bundllmayer Austrian
beauties over recent years, but only since the Aromatics Ace got his hands on
them have we managed to get some stocks for ourselves. Our little session with the Writer Joll need
a little more fuel so SWMBO magically brought a bacon and egg pie to add to
substance to the two Brundlmayer bottles.
Surprisingly bot wines accompanied the food remarkably well. We were hungry too.
Firstly the 2013
Brundlmayer Zobinger ‘Heiligenstein’ 1 ‘OTW’ Kamptal DAC Riesling, from a superior site on very
old soils. This looks to be a wine of
clarity, ant it sure is. Purity of white
florals and minerals with a core of herbals that fades away, leaving the
aromatic beauty. Bright and vivacious
and only a hint of austerity that translates to thirst-quenching acidity. This has fruit depth and the phenolics
super-fine. Great vibrancy, tautness and
depth too. Cut through the bacon and egg
without losing integrity, and added moisture to the dish too. 12.5% alc. and sealed in a Stelvin screwcap,
these modern, thinking Austrians are doing it all right.
Though Gruner Veltliner and Riesling are what Brundlmayer
do, the Blauburgunder and Pinot Noir reds are not to be scoffed at. As we quickly learned with the 2011 Brundlmayer ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir. Ripe fruit from the ‘Decant’ and ‘Kaferberg’
sites fermented to 13.5% alc, given a 2 week maceration and aged 12-18 months
in 300L Austrian casks, 1-2 y.o. That’s
serious enough! Black-red colour and black
fruits with a mineral heart. Lovely
depth and intensity with a purity plus hint of savoury herb and liquorice, Very supple, fine grained, soft and satiny
tannins. Maybe carried a little by the
acid. The savoury nuances of complexity
emerging in the glass. And just the
subtlty and savoury counterbalance to the salt and texture of the pie.
More pie and Brundlmayer were on offer, but our guest hade
to depart…
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