I’ve followed and been a fan of Te Mata Estate in Hawke’s
Bay before they released their Coleraine and Awatea wines in 1982. Founder John Buck had a persona that was
larger than life, and he spoke with great confidence, his European training at
the best establishments giving him an edge over other winegrowers at the time
of the late 1970s and early 1980s. His
business partners were also highly respected professionals who knew their
stuff. I went to visit the premises in
the fields where Havelock North is now urban, and bought Chalino, Rose and
Furmint. The 1980 and 1981 Cabernet
Sauvignons were sensational at the time, and the 1982 and 1983 Te Mata
Coleraine and Awatea wines as cutting edge as they could be.
I’ve had the opportunity of tasting the 1982 and 1983
Coleraine on a number of occasions, and they are wonderful to compare. They each have their supporters, the 1982
riper, more even and harmonious, with a beautiful elegant balance, and the 1983
with brighter, seemingly darker berried fruit, more pronounced structure, and
vitality. At some times I’ve preferred
the 1982, and others the 1983, and if anything probably more for the
latter. I have slowly whittled away at
my bottles, and then I noticed there were two remaining, one of each.
The occasion was a get together at the A-Prentice’s, where
some of these older wines go down well.
The 1982 cork disintegrated even with the two-pronged extractor. The 1983 cork came out in one piece. Once poured, we could start the analysis. The 1982
Te Mata ‘Coleraine’ fading brick colour but with a heart. Soft, gentle and tertiary with dried out red
fruits, earth and herbs, but all very integrated and mellow. Soft and earthy on the palate, faded tannins,
and a little acidity. Totally mellowed
out, resolved and past its best now, with drying fruit. Yet a pleasing balance and only a hint of the
decrepit. This was an easy glass to sip
on. The 1983 Te Mata ‘Coleraine’ darker with hues of red to the
mahogany! Distinctly cool-climate
viticulture with blackcurrants, herbaceousness, leaf and stalk. We’ve come a long way in 30 years. Intensity to the green and a slight earthy
grubbiness. But still acid, tannic and
vigorous. Just a bit harsh. Greens can help keep a wine alive, as it had
here. Sure, it was more alive, but
sharper and less pleasant. You take your
choices on what ticks your boxes.
Tonight it was the 1982 for most of us.
Here, we were drinking New Zealand wine history. There were far superior, modern wines on the
table, but none quite with this pedigree.
Lucky old us!
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