And Then There Were Two

I’ve followed and been a fan of Te Mata Estate in Hawke’s Bay before they released their Coleraine and Awatea wines in 1982.   Founder John Buck had a persona that was larger than life, and he spoke with great confidence, his European training at the best establishments giving him an edge over other winegrowers at the time of the late 1970s and early 1980s.  His business partners were also highly respected professionals who knew their stuff.  I went to visit the premises in the fields where Havelock North is now urban, and bought Chalino, Rose and Furmint.  The 1980 and 1981 Cabernet Sauvignons were sensational at the time, and the 1982 and 1983 Te Mata Coleraine and Awatea wines as cutting edge as they could be.

I’ve had the opportunity of tasting the 1982 and 1983 Coleraine on a number of occasions, and they are wonderful to compare.  They each have their supporters, the 1982 riper, more even and harmonious, with a beautiful elegant balance, and the 1983 with brighter, seemingly darker berried fruit, more pronounced structure, and vitality.  At some times I’ve preferred the 1982, and others the 1983, and if anything probably more for the latter.  I have slowly whittled away at my bottles, and then I noticed there were two remaining, one of each.

The occasion was a get together at the A-Prentice’s, where some of these older wines go down well.  The 1982 cork disintegrated even with the two-pronged extractor.  The 1983 cork came out in one piece.  Once poured, we could start the analysis.  The 1982 Te Mata ‘Coleraine’ fading brick colour but with a heart.  Soft, gentle and tertiary with dried out red fruits, earth and herbs, but all very integrated and mellow.  Soft and earthy on the palate, faded tannins, and a little acidity.  Totally mellowed out, resolved and past its best now, with drying fruit.  Yet a pleasing balance and only a hint of the decrepit.  This was an easy glass to sip on.  The 1983 Te Mata ‘Coleraine’ darker with hues of red to the mahogany!  Distinctly cool-climate viticulture with blackcurrants, herbaceousness, leaf and stalk.  We’ve come a long way in 30 years.  Intensity to the green and a slight earthy grubbiness.  But still acid, tannic and vigorous.  Just a bit harsh.  Greens can help keep a wine alive, as it had here.  Sure, it was more alive, but sharper and less pleasant.  You take your choices on what ticks your boxes.  Tonight it was the 1982 for most of us.

Here, we were drinking New Zealand wine history.  There were far superior, modern wines on the table, but none quite with this pedigree.  Lucky old us!