Corton-Charlemagne is one of the great white burgundies, grand cru no less. It has majesty with its steeliness that is reminiscent of Chablis Grand Cru on a course of steroids. Of course, a lesser version of Corton-Charlemagne will have deficiencies. But the Egg-Man poured for us a 2009 Deux Montille Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru ‘Sous Fretille’. This is from the sister and brother negociant firm and offshoot of the famous Domaine de Montille estate. Pernand-Vergelesse is the village on the western foot of Corton-Charlemagne. So it wasn’t a surprise this was a rather classy wine. Softer, broader but lighter and more gentle than a Corton-Charlemagne, and clearly without the same nobility, it had a delicious accessibility. The first sip to the last teased with its fruit and inputs, never putting a foot out of place. A benign “Mini-Me”!
Sunday, May 28, 2017
Lovers of the zany will know of “Mini-Me” from Austin Powers. He was a clone of Dr Evil, but one-eighth the size. We often see similarities in our children, of course, and in positive and not so positive ways. When it comes to wine, for most drinkers, it’s a matter of ‘the bigger the better’, and that smaller is certainly less. But those with more experience will appreciate the toned-down nature and elegance that a smaller wine can bring.
Posted by Wine Noter at Sunday, May 28, 2017