Friday, June 30, 2017

The Real Dirt

The Mosel wines of Clemens Busch have become firm favourites in our household.  They are getting more expensive as other wine lovers cotton on to how good they are.  But SWMBO retains a little in the budget to purchase a few bottles when the time arises to replenish the cellar.

What’s so special about Clemens Busch is that while his more conventional ‘fruit-sweet’ wines are excellent, and often outstanding (we just love the Marienburg Spatlese Goldkapsel), the dry Trocken wines are even better.  At the top level are the GG wines which are expressive of either Grey, Red or Blue slate on which the vines are planted in the Pundericher Marienburg vineyard.  We enjoy all three expressions for their individuality, the red slate standing out a bit more for its richness.  But the blue and grey slate retail floraity and finesse.  And they shoe the real character of the dirt in which the vines have their roots.
We had the occasion to open the 2012 Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienburg Riesling GG ‘Fahrlay-Terrassen with Pedro, the most laid-back host in the world.  He hadn’t had much trocken Riesling or Clemens Busch for that it was a treat to treat him.  This is from 100 y.o. vines on blue slate terraces.  The 2012s are just starting to show their full potential now.  A beautifully clean, rich earthy-rich wine that just oozes liquid terroir.  Minerals galore, with Riesling florals and Mosel raciness.  But overall, this had depth and refined textures.  Stylish and fine, but so powerful and complete.  Honied richness with the sucking of wet-stones.  Each sip inviting one to sip even more.  Fantastic!

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