Our winemaking styles undergo a gradual creep as they evolve in this modern world. It’s too easy not to go with changing goalposts, and be stuck in our rut. But one must also be cautious not to whole-heartedly adopt new fashions and fads, as they fade away quickly, leaving you in an embarrassing place.
SWMBO and I were recently impressed with a 2012 Thierry Violot-Guillemard Pommard 1er Epenots. Brought to dinner by the French Terry, this was a surprisingly modern interpretation of Pommard, an appellation best known for its sturdy, four-square wines. The best Pommards have a richness which match the structure, so that they are not burly, but in essence, they still have an inelegant style to them. They are among the bigger Cote de Beaune red wines, save those from Corton. This modern Pommard had sweetly ripe fruit, and enough depth and fine concentration. There was a degree of suppleness too. Maybe a little difficult to see as the Pommard as we’ve come to expect, but better for it. It was a more fresh and easier wine than the grunt of the past, and all the better for it. Bring it on, I say.