Friday, December 22, 2017

Not Merely a Meursault

Surely one of the classic white burgundies – that’s Meursault.  In this day of going for the best, Meursault can get a little lost when one is expected to go for grand cru Chablis, Corton-Charlemagne or Puligny-Montrachet.  Meursault with no grand cru vineyards tends to get grouped with the second level.  This is wrong, as the wines of Meursault can be pretty spectacular.  At their most typical, they are broader, richer and more accessible than those of Puligny-Montrachet, and thus more consumer-friendly.  The best have layers of richness and complexity, and can age as long as most any other white burgundy.
The Orbiter brought along a Meursault to share.  It was not merely a Meursault, but something bordering spectacular and utterly delicious.  The 2009 Bouchard Pere ‘Domaine’ Meursault 1er ‘Genevrieres’ is from estate fruit and from one of the top vineyards in the appellation, a candidate for promotion to grand cru, surely?  And Bouchard Pere can get it right as it is a top producer as well as a negociant.  Surprisingly pale in colour, this was redolent of ripe yellow stonefruits with a creamy texture showing luxurious barrel-ferment.  Some complexing flintiness allied to the nutty lees and oak, and now a little hint of oxidation.  The wine is afterall, 8 years old, and now in its prime.  There’s no hurry, and I’m sure it will keep on going for another 8 years.  But why wait?  The Orbiter had waited long enough, and he chose to share it at a good time.  All of us in attendance nodded happily.  All the Orbiter said was “it’s a good one – no premox”, and this was a classic understatement.    

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