Tuesday, February 27, 2018

Delicate Decadence

It’s almost a contradiction but it’s true – there can be delicacy with decadence.  For SWMBO and I, it’s the style of the sweeter German Riesling wines at the Spatlese and Auslese level.  In today’s world of searching for greater sugar levels that define these pradikat categories, but a super-rich Spatlese can certainly fit into the Auslese class in overall character, and likewise, a more elegant Auslese can be mistaken for a Spatlese.  Then comes into play the factor of age.  German Rieslings can age develop richness without showing too much age and older wines retain their freshness.
A lovely catch up with The Sticky Lady showed the above premises to perfection; she too is an avid German Riesling fan, so was keen to serve up a couple of fine examples.  The 2006 Wagner Stempel Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Spatlese from the Rheinhessen was a stunning start to the evening,  As with many classy examples, this was creamy in texture with cream custard overtones – something we love.  Lovely in its fresh citrus, floral and honied fruit and just the right amount of toasty and kero mineral-like notes.  The softer acidity certainly added to the richness and luscious textures.  This was all there and ready now.
Then a 2011 Dr H Thanisch Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese from a famous estate and top vineyard in the Mosel.  The Doctor is a little lost in the wake of many other stunning Mosel releases, but the critics of old werer right on the button in having this site as something special.  Fantastic elegance and intensity of florals, citrus, honey, and some toast and minerals.  The tell-tale sign of cream custard just appearing.  But then a spine of tingling acidity lending cut and zestiness.  Clearly a little fresher, through being a younger wine and its Mosel provenance.  Both both wines truly decadent and delicate to make them beautiful and in no way over the top.

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