Perfect

I’m a person of facts and figures, which suggests I am an objective person probably with an approach of science, especially when it comes to wine.  But there’s no doubt an element of emotion and subjectivity that plays an important part in the overall assessment of a bottling.  And this is most true at the very top level.  These are wines which come near to perfection in quality and in style, the former attribute coming about by intellect, and the latter by feeling and personal preference.

 

I have no qualms about rating a wine at a perfect 20 points out of 20.  Of course, only when a wine can’t be bettered for what it is.  Much of this decision will be based on technical matters, such as fruit ripeness and intensity, along with componentry balance,  Then comes the more effusive parameters of style, and of course, this can be assessed objectively to a degree, but in the final analysis, it comes down to the tasters’ personal perception of beauty and expression of provenance taking into account the winemakers’ signature, among other things.  There are some people who will never find perfection in a wine, or for that matter in anything in their lives, and I pity them, for they will never be truly happy with their lot.  A fulfilled life must have moments when nothing can be better, and I believe and feel that the occasional wine reaches that point.  It’s not a matter of lower standards, but making total pleasure accessible.

One wine that I’d call perfect is the 2014 Villa Maria ‘Ngakiriri’ ‘The Gravels’ Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon.  It is the second iteration of Villa Maria’s icon wine.  I actually rated the inaugural 2013 wine a perfect score to, but this 2014 is even more perfect.  The ripeness level is incredibly poised, as it shows ideal varietal character with sweetness and richness, without going over the line.  The fruit opulence is matched by super-fine extraction and structure.  There’s considerable body to this, but it’s effortless in expression.  The decadence is balanced by acidity to the ideal level, so the wine has gorgeous vitality.  The extra degree of ripeness and slightly finer acid and tannin gave it the edge over the 2013, which had a beautiful edginess, which will see it age particularly well.  It’s a matter of style in choosing which perfect wine suits me best.  The 2014 brought a bigger smile to my face, and made me happier.  The 2013 was intellectually more thought-provoking.  Both are exceptional wines.  Perfect.