Boxing On

The Christmas festivities always continue, and our growing tradition is to see the real Mr Parker and Lovin' Lorna on Boxing Day, who made the effort of visiting us for a change. As could be expected, a number of wines presented themselves for consumption, and it was a tough choice the make. We followed my heart, rather than Mr Parker's, so I trust he wasn't upset with that happening. Even with the number of bottles being opened held back a little, we tried to box on through the wine flood, but needed to call in the Neighbouring S.O.S. Group, to assist with the proceedings.

The day started with a 2005 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spatlese. Still young, and a little reticent on nose and taste. As SWMBO and the real Mr Parker love the Jerries, they could see more than I could. It was nevertheless delicious. Still a baby, tight and with the famed Brauneberg concentration and fruit weight. Primary flavours, the Spatlese designation fulfilled superbly with its richness. Honey, florals, herbs and slate - in that order. We thought we'd go for a walk to get some credits, but they were quickly used up by an outstanding 1996 Pol Roger 'Winston Churchill' Champers. Complete in every way, with complex toastiness and autolysis. How does Pol Roger build in class and style with astounding power? It's their hallmark, for sure. My wine of the session, and one that Lovin' Lorna could sip on till the cows come home.

Rhone was the next region to come up on the radar. The session surprise for me was the 1999 Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc 'L'Oree'. Golden in appearance, I was expecting this to show the classic, and rather ugly oxidation that traditional Marsanne often has. But no. Wonderful poise and interest. More savoury, earthy acacia and florals allied to nuts. A nuance of oxidation, but it melded in with the character. Thoroughly modern and sleek for what can be a broad and flabby white. And stunningly versatile in how it matched all the different food from cheeses to crayfish! Then came the wine that improved all night. A 1990 Chapoutier Ermitage 'Pavillon' Black as, even after nearly 20 years. Tight and bound together. A touch of reduction peeking though the black fruits. Fine and firm tannins. Silky smooth and elegant for Hermitage. Over the course of the evening, it blossomed to show Hermitage terroir. Sweet and savoury, with spices and pepper with liquorice. One of the classiest Hermitage wines I've seen. The real Mr Parker loves Pavillon, as do I, and we are glad we still have some more. It needs another decade, and could handle another 30 years easily. Especially in magnum.

Then a brace of 1983 clarets, served with SWMBO's special chicken recipe. We suspected there would be no match, but what the heck. The Ch. Petit-Village Pomerol was a petit wine really. Still very alive, but its 10% Cabernet Sauvignon showing a profound influence - giving a cool leafiness and crisp acidity. The property has had its flashes of glory, but not in 1983. Then a magical Ch. Canon St Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe (B, of course). Sumptuous and sweet black fruits, lush and plump for what is normally good old austere Bordeaux. 75% Merlot and a decadent expression for the variety here. A fine cut of meat would have been perfect. Canon has gone through a tough time since its period of glory in the late 70s and early 80s.

Then as a finale, a 1983 Hugel Alsace Gewurz Vendange Tardive. Corroded capsule giving way to a sound cork. Brilliantly bright and clear, light straw-gold. Pronounced aromatics of herbal spices, almost muscat in some ways. Savoury and bitter notes yet not decrepit in any way. Only marginally sweet in mouth, yet with luscious textures. The acidity was fabulous, and the wine was lively and spritely for its age. Quite wondrous I suppose. But the bitterness lent an ugly nuance which flawed the wine overall. I can't wait to try the 1976 Hugel Gewurz SGN I got from Harrods in another life.

Life boxes on, and meeting up with friends, both old and new, makes it all fun and interesting.