New & Old

It's great to try new and old together. Not only does it provide a sense of continuity, but freshness is revitalising and old gives a sense of permanence. So it was with a meal with The Planning Man and his charming lady, the Planning Partner.

The new was a 2009 Millton 'Muskats@Dawn' , fresh bright, light and with plenty of the grapey fruit that makes these low alcohol (10.0%) versions so delightful as an aparitif. Very slurpable.

Then onto comparisons: Chardonnay. First was the magnificent 2006 Church Road 'Tom' Chardonnay, concentrated and dense, with amazing fruit definition of tropicals, citrus and mealiness. This was to go alongside a 1999 Moreau-Naudet Chablis GC 'Valmur', but this was oxidised. DNPIM material and a shame.

The Planners are Pinot Noir people, and they are working on a project with a difference, so watch this space - in about 4 years time, so Pinot Noir was a must. First was a 2005 Grivot Vosne-Romanee 1er 'Rouges'. Backward and tight, without the usual Vosne opulence. But then these 2005s will live a long time and cellaring is mandatory. Maybe the 2005s are entering a dumb phase? Anyway the Planning Man liked it very much, and he's no Burgundy slouch. Alongside it was a great bottle of 1998 Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir. Some bottles are not as good, but this was rich and sweet in fruit, with lovely tertiary characters and decent structure still. A hot year, but this wine is remarkably fresh.

We were a civilised lot, so not too many bottles this night. But a 1982 Ch. Climens Barsac Sauternes continued the civility. Pale gold colour, with an intially reticent nose and hard palate, unfolding its richness with air time. The 'cutting' Basrsac nature dominating in the end. Lovely oily Semillon, almost with a Germanic 'cream and custard' note, rather than the open barley-sugar of Bordeaux. Not a great botrytis year, but a nice finish. This was the old, and it maintained our faith in longevity.