The Call-Up

It was set to be a long, wet dark and damp day, but a chance meeting with the Wiry Bush Man meant that a session was on to brighten things up. He was in cruise mode and out of town, so this call-up was a spontaneous affair, which he seemed to relish. The Little Aussie Battler has spent some time in the 'employ' of the Wiry Bush Man, so she got the call-up too, and lo and behold, she came through the door as well.

'Starters for ten' were the whites. Firstly a little favourite style, a 2007 von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett. Typical von Kesselstatt with a oilier texture along with the steel of the Saar. and pleasingly clean of sulphur. We also looked at a modern, complex-sulphided, crisply acid 2007 Petaluma Chardonnay, very much a show-stealer, and a magnificent 2006 Leeuwin 'Art Series' Chardonnay, complete in texture, richness and interest. We all loved this, especially SWMBO.

Such a gathering could not pass without some oldies. Bordeaux was so fashionable 20-30 years ago. But then, we denied the sensual pleasures of our palates which we satisfy with Pinot Noir and Syrah nowadays. Maybe Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot need a call-up? Based on the two St Estephe clarets served, the answer would be 'no'. For the 1982 Ch. Meyney was full, solid plump and chunky, but developed horse notes and dried out with air time. Initially promising. Worse was the 1983 Ch. Lafon-Rochet, somewhat dirty and spoiled with oxidation. Quite acidic and not worth delving into any further.

It was a brave move to serve some N.Z. reds of the same era as the clarets. Much lighter in weight and leaner in richness. But surprisingly balanced, and therefore drinkable. Just barely so was the 1982 (Montana) Wairau Valley Marlb. Cab Sauv. Peas in a pod aromas and flavours and highly acidic. But light and approachable. Best of the four Bordeaux styled wines was the 1981 Te Mata Cab Sauv. Riper, richer, still with a tannin backbone. Actually a pleasing and moreish drop. These showed Hawke's Bay was the place. Both these Kiwi wines were iconic in their day, and it was a treat that they responded to their call up!

Then in honour of the Little Aussie Battler, a 1999 Torbreck 'Run Rig', that the Real Mr Parker left with us. A wow wine. Still dark, the Viognier truly giving elegance, freshness and succulence to the Shiraz. Sheer style, drinking now and over another decade if necessary. In comparison with the Penfolds wines of this era, this was very light on its feet, especially for a Barossa wine.

We then headed out to a wine bar for more wine and food. Little platters did the job. So did a 2006 Francois Chidane Vouvray 'Argiles', not your typical Vouvray, but one that was winemaker-made, with sulphides responsible for its personality. A good drink anyway. And a delightfully modern and fruity 2006 Poderi Colla Nebbiolo d'Alba which retained some reasonable vestiges of its Piedmont origin. There was the dried tar and herb note with some grip that emerged in decanter.

On our own, we tottered off to The 'Bird Bar' and caught up with out 'Just Sip It Seppy' where a 2007 Trinity Hill Noble Viognier got an airing. Beaut how Viognier varietals and botrytis go together, and this had substance along with fresh cut. Then a taxi got a call-up to take us home.