Making An Effort

A road trip meant a lot of miles to be driven. Was it going to be worth it to go the distance?

We spent over six hours on the road to visit the 'V-Man' and 'EV'. On arrival, a bottle of 1998 Perrier-Jouet 'Belle Epoque', wonderfully mature and on its plateau, yet a refreshing and elegant drink, as it always is. Beautiful florals, nuts, yeasty autolysis and toastiness, all in sublime finesse and harmony. The bottle is hand-painted, but its appeal makes it worth the effort! The evening progressed through a number of wines, but features were the 1998 Penfolds 'RWT' Shiraz, seductively smooth and fine-textured, and sexily ripe and sweet. Opulence is the word. The team at Penfolds spent years developing the 'Red Winemaking Trial', and the wine reflects the effort. And we all know the story of Grange and Max Schubert's trials. His efforts resulted in one of the great wines of the world. So we had a backward, tannic and hugely constructed 1996 Penfolds Grange. Everything a Grange should be. The 1998 RWT had another decade ahead of it. This 1996 Grange had two to three decades ahead of it.

Finally a curio, a Casa do Douro Tawny Port 1963 bottled in 2003, at 19.5% and in cask 40 years. Lots of rancio, and lots of raisin, nuts and oxidative hints, plus fine spirit, all adding up to a gorgeous and unusually young tasting port-thing that was different to anything ever tasted before. 'V-Man' made the effort of bringing it back from Iberia, and the Port makers are making an effort to do something different to revitalise their wine industry.

The next day, a quarter day's drive to see Dragon and Te Ha Ha. We were only going to stop for a cuppa. But we were persuaded to stay the night. They were keen to make an effort for us, and we recognised it. A great meal later, we saw it was well worth staying on. Some nice vinos passed our way, including a 2008 Esk Valley Pinot Gris, textbook in every way, and a great aperitif. The lamb and a 2007 Junction Riesling, both from John Ashworth - ex All Black - in Central Hawke's Bay, were delicious. The Riesling just getting toasty, but no hurry. Ending the night was a 1998 Unison red. Fresh, lively and bright, despite some brettanomyces. The structure and style quite classic, but it got tougher to drink as the bottle got lower and lower. All three wines were the result of passion and effort. It pays off in some way, always.