Saturday, June 19, 2010

Siblings

Sibling get togethers are not common nowadays, even though we are in the same city. Busy lives seem to prevent the frequency, but when they occur, it's a lot of fun catching up on the gossip and to talk of old times. We did manage a session last night, at the Amble-Inn eatery, one of our favourites, where food and service was spot-on. It was 'Mags', 'Jude' and myself with our other halves. We all like eating, drinking and talking, telling tales, and it was a busy night. Of course, a few bottles were emptied...

Bubbles is a great way to begin, and the NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Blanc de Blancs was very dry, steely, minerally and almost austere. Perfect to whet the appetite. I do like the vintage version with a little more depth, richness and character, but this did the job. Some good oysters would have set it off. Then onto something richer, a stunning 2007 Spade Oak Gisborne Viognier, rich, weighty, lush, and loads of fruit fat, apricot, zest, and oak too. This went down a treat, so a back-up white was called in, a 2007 Bret Brothers Macon-Uchizy 'Martine', made by two organically focused siblings, stylish, almost refined and understated, but with a subtle build up. It should have come before the Viognier, but then we didn't count on my siblings' sipping power!

The main courses chosen had plenty of fillet beef. So reds were ideal. Two 'sibling' Margaux wines were the chosen ones, both from 1983, a good vintage for the commune, better than the rated 1982 vintage for most commentators. The 1983 Ch. d'Angludet started off sleek and vibrant with perfumes lifting black fruits and bright acidity. As air time took effect, the funky animal brett came out and dominated the proceedings and the tannin grip started to show dryness through the palate. It was a great match to see how the 1983 Ch. du Tertre changed too. Seemingly grubby on opening, this calmed down and began to show varietal Cabernet vitality, within a rather classical framework of tannin structure that allowed fruit sweetness come through. These lesser claret growths can really do the job, and this was one occasion.

We ended up saying our farewells to the wines, the eatery's good people and the siblings. A good night it was.

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