Getting It Together

It was an odd evening with formalities. SWMBO was on another mission, so I was solo at first. A quick phone call made it possible for us all to get it together for a meal, followed by another bottle or two.

In the end it was a merry group. The Tall Waiheke Man was the guest, and the AC Electric Man and Natty were in attendance. We were joined by Peeler and Dan Young Man from our favourite eatery. We started off with a pair of young 'uns. A 2007 Bischoflische Priesterseminar Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spatlese at nine-comma-five! A touch reductive on nose, opening up to a lovely limey-honied soda-pop palate that was carried by the sugar, but nicely so. Then a seriously sleek 2007 Remiziere Hermitage 'Cuvee Emile', modern, dark in colour and fruit, with ripeness galore and loads of oak. Deep and tightly bound, but a smooth beauty to put away for 10+ years really to do it justice.


Then the main feature. 1983 vs 1982 Ch. Leoville-Barton St Julien. The corks slid out firmly in one piece and a quarter soaked. A good portent? The '83 dark coloured, dark berry fruited and refined with intensity. A touch hard and lean moving to game then horses with air time. Still with grip, but on a plateau. The '82 quite glorious with its richness, sweetness, sumptuousness and liveliness and any other 'nesses you'd like to add! You couldn't get a better example of an 1982 claret. As good as it gets and it'll last another 15-20. It had it all together.


Then off home for something sweeter. We though we'd try the 1983 Deinhard Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese. Pale gold and reticent on bouquet. Sweet, but not very so. Plenty of defining acidity. Subtle toast, honey, creaming soda and caramel as these old Mosels get when they're getting it together. Two conclusions: One - it will always be a bit narrowed. After all, Bernkastel is over-rated as a top village compared to Graach, Wehlen, Erden, Brauneberg, and even poor old lost-its-way Piesport? Two - This is still a baby, with another 25 years ahead of it. I like this scenario better, but deep down I don't believe it...

The final act was a 1990 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port. A bit murky to the ruby-garnet, and it wasn't bad decanting. Soft, muffled nose with savoury, ripe red fruits. The spirit was excellent, but the wine a little dull and flat for me. SWMBO and most of the others had no problem. Damn node day on the biodynamic calendar? Or was it the full-moon the day before?