Growing Gurus

Over the last three seasons, it has been a pleasure to have Steveski and Donnaski as our friends. They are gurus in their own right, masters of the white fluffy stuff, and SWMBO has been the beneficiary of their technical expertise, while both of us have enjoyed their company immensely. When these gurus came to town, it was amazing to see their understanding and enjoyment of wine take a leap forward as they were engaged in different vinous activities. Being passionate people in their own right enabled the igniting of the latent wine interest.

Coming into home, we opened a 2009 Framingham Sauvignon Blanc. Stock standard fare, and drinking well now. In no way should this sound derogatory. This won accolades in Decanter magazine, and quite rightly too. Then a 2008 Church Road Merlot/Cabernet. Vibrant, purpley, supple and absolutely delish. The output from this Hawke's Bay winery has been superb of late, and this punches way above its station. Then a more savoury 2005 Pegasus Bay Merlot/Cabernet. While ticking all boxes, there's an underlying thread of sap which comes out in an ungainly way with air time.

The next day, we headed off over the hill, to visit our local vignoble. We took with us as swapsies a decadent 2009 Terrace Edge Pinot Gris, paired with a 2009 Mt Beautiful Pinot Gris, more sinewy, tighter and longer. But both on the full, rounded and riper style, rather than the boney Pinot Grigio way. Also brought along to show the locals were a 2005 Carrick 'Excelsior' Pinot Noir - rich, ripe, structured, almost surly, but good with it. This was paired with a 2005 Fromm 'Fromm Vineyard' Pinot Noir, which was unfortunately corked. However, looking past the TCA, one could see the silky-smooth, fine-grained texture and superb poise.

26 bottles, one tank and three barrels later, everybody's expertise had gone up a notch. Dinner with Diamondski and Bobski meant sipping on a complex, full-bodied 2008 Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay and perfectly poised 2008 Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir. Tasted on the tasting circuit during the day, these were stand-outs. On the dinner table, they melded and merged with the food. It's amazing how wine does that, and reflects how wine should be a natural and unforced accompaniement while eating. Bobski pulled out a number of cellared wines, but SWMBO chose a gloriously honied-toasty 2000 Pegasus Bay Riesling. Perfection to drink and its slight sweetness just magic.

A hard day's work saw a number of bottles opened as a reward. Three aromatic/new whites set the scene. The 2010 Forrest 'Doctors' Arneis was clean and correct. I just can't see the point of elevating this variety on a pedastal. It can only go so far. However the 2010 Forrest 'Doctors' Gruner Veltliner was a different proposition. Great aromatics, and good elegant follow-through on palate. As vines get older and winemaking settles, this could be very interesting. The 2010 Forrest 'Doctors' Riesling is another success. All the earlier vintages have been stars. The lightness of feet from low alcohol and seduction from sugar with botrytis hints makes this a winner. Then a remarkable preview of Larry McKenna's single vineyard Escarpment Pinot Noirs from the yet-to-be-released 2009 vintage. 'Pahi' was elegant, bright and light. Clean and pure for sure. 'Kiwa' took it up a step in weight, dimension and richness. I loved it, as did everyone else. The undisputed winner in the line-up had to be the complex, textured 'Te Rehua'. As Larry would say, this is what it's all about. The flagship 'Kupe' was a big, ripe, softie, very complex and out there. It will prove to be a talking point, as it should be, for many years. To finish off the night with a household of honoured guests, including the Pet Pal family, Gizzie Gold Gal and the Island Man, we broached a 1982 Ch. d'Yquem Sauternes. Not quite as fresh and lush as the one tasted in August, but still mpressive with honey, caramel, toffee and barley-sugar, on a weighty, dense palate. A touch less lively than expected after the August bottle, but a source of astonishing wonder, nevertheless.

You'd suppose this was to be the finale in the growth of the gurus' enjoyment, but lunch the next day with Toniski was enhanced by a particularly beautiful 2009 Vynfields Classic Riesling. Honey and flowers. Just delightful. We did need an interlude, but eventually dinner beckoned, and at the posh place, on the hill, we started proceedings with an elegant, tight and eminently drinkable NV Quartz Reef Methode. We had met Rudi coming off a plane at the airport the day before, so it was appropriate to toast him. A 2007 Escarpment Chardonnay was chosen to toast Larry. This opened up in glass, revealing lots. Probably a little too much in the malo department, but that's being picky. Steveski and Donnaski supped on glasses of 2005 Yalumba 'Signature' Cabernet/Shiraz. We toasted Robert Hill Smith, inspiration of the modern face of Yalumba and an Aussie guru in our eyes.

It has been gurus all round, and to see Steveski and Donnaski grow in appreciation of all things vinous has been a joy. We know they won't stop growing.