Hard Yards with Old Chards

They've been sitting there, in the corner for a very long time. For one reason or another, we just didn't want to open them. Of course, the longer they were left, the less appetizing they looked. We bit the bullet. Some old New Zealand Chardonnays, ranging from 1996 back to 1984. You see, you wouldn't really blame us for not going there.....we knew it could be hard yards tasting these.....

The opener was the 1996 Villa Maria PB Gisborne Chard. One of SWMBO's and it was good in its time, punching above its weight. 13.0% alc, aged in French and U.S. oak. You could easily see why it was a PB, and not a Reserve. Light, thin, stonefruits, some oxidation through the line. Not much going for it now...

Then a flight of 1992 vintage wines, also belonging to SWMBO. These were good, premium labels 15 years plus ago. And still are, actually. The 1992 Church Road HB Chard at 13.5% alc. The darkest of all the wines. Broad, flat dulled, loads of botrytis-like characters interwoven with oxidation and oak. OTT for sure. Should have been opened 15 years ago. Then a 1992 Corbans Marlb. Chard, 14.0% alc. 12 months in oak and MLF. Very fine in structure still. Tight, minerally, some oxidation and a little grubbiness. They were tight, crisp, powerful and funky then too. Then the 1992 Villa Maria Reserve Marlb. Chard. From the Waldron and Fletcher sites, still going today. 13.0% alc., 5 months in barrique and 25% MLF. This was the time that Grunter made the wines, in the sleek mould. Golden, full, over-ripe tropical fruit, clean, and way past its best, but not oxidised. A revelation as these Villa Maria wines can be. Gold medal at the 1993 Easter Show. Complex and just drinkable. Funny how the judges then could pick 'em!

Two 1987s followed. The 1987 Ngatarawa 'Alwyn' HB Chard, elegant and just a little attenuated. This was the suspicion at the time, and it still looked it. Refined in its day, and still so, but spoilt by oxidation. 13.0%. Alwyn was ahead of his time understanding the variety, like John Hancock. The 1987 Montana Marlb. Valley Chard was lighter in colour, vinous, dull and flat, with what we called the 'Montana Squirt' - the all pervading 'sameness' regardless of the variety. One theory was that the tanks were so big that there was still a portion of whatever else had been made in it, and the next lot picked and fermented was just added on top! We were cynics then! 12.0% may have been generous on the label.

Last wine was truly a slice of history. A 1984 Kaituna Hills Marlb. Chardonnay, one of the fancy 'Winemakers Selection' wines from Montana that were expensive and hard to access. Revolutionary for such a big company to allow winemakers to play. Stainless-steel fermented, then 3 months in new medium-toast Nevers oak. 11.0% on the label tells it all. Herbal and not really ripe. And understandable, but not forgiven, note of oxidation. Hard work to try these. But it was worth it, as some raised a few eyebrows.