Thursday, March 10, 2011

In-Built, On the Line and Waiting

These are three phrases that seem to represent the phases and life situation I've been experiencing lately. My work and indeed SWMBO's is based on the abilities we have acquired or have built within ourselves. We've put our livelihood and lives on the line by trusting and having faith in ourselves. My new venture is based on the modern airwaves - 'on-line' (now that's a pun!) But in truth we've been waiting to do it, and should have done it earlier. Our friends have told us this, and have been waiting for the fruits of my labour to show.
All of this came into focus when we had a surprise visit from Gordy. He's a bit of an inspiration for us, and indeed many other people with his tenacity, passion, and dry sense of humour. He is only the best, so only the best is good enough for him, as far as we are concerned.

To mark his visit, we opened a 1975 Ch. Margaux from the commune of Margaux, of course, and the three phrases seemed applicable to the wine as well. Dark as anything, but with mahogany hues to the colour, this was a solidly constructed wine with power, flesh, fruit and depth. While it showed those savoury, earthy, cedary signs of secondary development, it was remarkably clean, fresh, lively, with vitality and in a way, focus. No hint of the dreaded horsey brett. Tannins dissolved away, but remarkably structured and robust. Certainly less expressive of the commune of Margaux, and more a representation of the 1975 vintage with its size. This was a tough year in its time, the firm tannins needing decades to come into balance. The tannins have. There are certainly none of the ethereal perfumes or feminine touches, but more a matriarchal stance, and possibly masculine. If I had to pick a commune, we all said a cross between Pauillac and Graves. Whatever. At 36 years old it was on its plateau. It would stay on it for another 36 years easily. This is the sort of wine that makes you think of the young ones still with development ahead of it in those massive retrospective vertical tastings going back to the 1800s. In the final analysis, lacking the nuance and layers to be a great wine, but remarkable for its true claret character, robustness and longevity in the modern appreciation of that quality. This was before the Mentzelopoulos family ownership, and in times of a rather dull, forced ownership.

As a first growth it had all the in-built quality criteria and factors. terroir and pedigree. These were put on the line by the less-inspired management and a serious, challenging backward vintage came into play upon opening, thankfully. It's inherent personality was waiting all the time. Only $62.37 when I bought it 29 years ago.

No comments:

Post a Comment