Intensive Analysis

What was to be a light-hearted catch-up with one of The Chairman's old friends turned out to be a night of intensive wine analysis. I suppose we all tend to get complacent about our abilities to taste and guess the origins and qualities of the wines we come across, but it's a big wide world out there, and there are amazing people with enormous reserves of knowledge and experience. Intensive Ian was one such man. Marvellous Marie, SWMBO and I were awe-struck by his palate. Even The Chairman has the greatest respect.

Starters came in the form of a 2002 Moet Vintage Rose, beautifully expressive of red florals and red fruits, soft, plumpish and a touch on the sweetish side, but I called it luscious. What a gorgeous starter indeed. The 2004 Kientzler Alsace Riesling 'Cuvee Francois Alphonse' was a controversial one. Some of us thought oxidised at first, but not Ian. He was adamant it was a 'corker', and as it warmed up, it became more 'waxy' and clean. Great richness, with tightness and wonderfully textured, rather than phenolic. For me I was in the 'hate-it' camp, but could understand its quality. Intensive Ian brought out a 2010 Eden Road 'The Long Road' Canberra Riesling to show the similarity in textures. I like this - clean, fresh, floral, limes and minerals. Bone dry, but nowhere the weight and complexing interest of the Kientzler Alsace.

Star wine of the night was the 2008 Christian Moreau Chablis 1er 'Vaillons'. A complete wine with flinty richness, if that's an oxymoron, but it was just that. Classical racy Chablis, but with everything there. Intensive Ian was also impressed, but also nonchalant, as he has this type of wine on hand all the time! This was followed immediately by the 2003 Ch. Pichon Baron Pauillac. Very modern, full and plummy with sweet roasted red plums and berries, plus earth and game. There was underlying tannin, but initially the fruit had it all over the grip. Air time brought out the drying brettanomyces. Truly a product of the hot, drought vintage. I'd drink this in the next 6-8 years.

The final wines were the pairing of 1985 and 1986 Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste Pauillac fifth growths, brought out from intensive Ian's cellar. The 1985 was Ian's pick at the time of buying. Now extremely horsey and spoilt by brettanomyces, hard and dry, but strangely vinous and I could imagine acceptable for some. There was a breadth and density here. The 1986 was much cleaner, lively, fresher with bright black berry fruits and a hint of resiny oak. Younger seeming than its 25+ years, but I always saw the 1986s more concentrated, acidic and classy over the 1985s which were more accessible and user-friendly.

The evening progressed to serious wine analysis and guessing to seriously funny banter. It turned out light-hearted and lotsa fun in the final analysis.