A Mass of Wine Amassed

After a particularly high powered tasting with The Real Mr Parker, it was time to settle down to a bite to eat. Each of the guests brought out their bottles to consume over the meal. There were too many wines to catch up with, but most of us had a go. I recall a number of them. Here they are in style order:

I never knew that the Rothschild Family had gotten into Champagne, but they have, and poured first was the NV Barons de Rothschild Champagne, in a plain and simply presented bottle, but with all the Pinot Noir and autolysis whistles showing. A full-bodied style that was meaty and food friendly. The other dry white was a 2006 Guigal 'La Doriane' Condrieu, perfectly plateaued now, with incomparable apricotty exoticness, orange blossom and superbly integrated oak. It's amazing how this starts off as a heavily oaked wine then just absorbs all that wood in a few years. These Guigals know a thing or two!

New World reds made a strong showing. There's been a lot of press about 1998 Martinborough Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir beating a DRC 'La Tache' recently. $150 vs $2,000. The Real Mr Parker decided to open his last bottle. Damn - corked! And badly too. The power of the wine could be made out, just! A 1997 Mission 'Jewelstone' Syrah was shy with its spice and pepper. Inoffensive, but without getting anywhere. They do a better job nowadays. And a 1997 Rockford 'Basket Press' Barossa Shiraz. Loads of ripeness, loads of black spicy fruits and lots of sweet oak. But just flat and dull overall. Wanting to be impressive, but never making it because of too much make up.

Then onto a Rhone bracket. Worthwhile comparing the 1997 Jaboulet 'Thalabert' Crozes-Hermitage with the 1997 Jaboulet Cornas. The former light, slightly weedy and plain, but with a finesse. The latter richer, firmer, gutsier and lush in a rough way. The surprise was the 1989 Ch. de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Rich, softly textured, dense with spicy red fruits and complex earth/game, but no brettanomyces! We couldn't believe our luck!

A Bordeaux set brought in a sense of style. A pairing of Chx. Montrose, the second growth from St Estephe. The 1984 was leanish and greenish and modest. Drinkable, but the acidity was elevated. Fruit weight barely there, but a fine-featured wine in the end. Better was the 1983, with fine, tight, classic blackcurrants and cassis showing fair ripeness. Some body, restrained tannin, but good acidity, all there to keep it alive and chugging along for another decade. It wasn't the star it is today. Then onto a 1983 Ch. Raymond-Lafon Sauternes. A great year for most Sauternes, the d'Yquem had last year quite sublime. This was beginning to dry and show the faintest signs of going decrepit. However, oily, rich, lemony lift, botrytis barley sugar and a touch of VA. Should have drunk this a decade ago?

Finishing it all was a little 375 ml Campbells Rutherglen Liqueur Muscat, elegant, harmonious, more fresh material than old, but nicely done. Some warmth and spirit, but really decadent and easy. This was an ideal finisher that gave us a sugar hit!